My KA-T build 91 & E85 Daily driver S14

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Good luck!

Thank you good sir! I'm sure I'll need all the luck I can get.

Originally Posted by partytron69000

Would love to see your results from using NIStune. There used to be a licensed dealer/tuner here in Middle TN, so I'm wanting to go that route too, just with a little lower power goals.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Still debating if this is the route I will be going. I would love to go the standalone route as my first choice however it's about twice the cost of Nistune lol.

Originally Posted by lalo167

Yeah, pretty much everything BC. I'm still not sure on what cams to run. and ARP head studs.

Right on, so the standard 10mm ARP head studs correct? I know some guys go the 11mm route LM19's or something along those lines.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Was able to get some free time today to do a little bit more on the build. Felpro head gasket went on today along with the ARP head studs.

I ran into a little problem when installing the ARP KA24DE head studs. The very front stud on intake side didn't want to sit as flush as all the others. I have removed whatever I thought could be blocking the threads and have verified that there is nothing in the hole blocking the stud from going all the way in. Has anyone else had this problem? I wasn't able to torque down the head as the 12mm 12-point socket I have works on all nuts/bolts EXCEPT the one which sticks up further. This requires a deep socket 12mm 12-point.

Also, just to confirm, the felpro head gasket DOES fit w/ .040 OVER (90mm) pistons. The gasket does NOT have any overhang into the cylinders; it fits it perfectly!

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Had some time to get the timing chain on today. I went with the OSK timing chain kit. It's actually pretty heavy duty and OEM feel. Also in the process, one of my cam bearing caps' bolts snapped when I was torquing it to 8ft-lbs. FSM calls for 6.7-8.7ft-lbs TQ. I'll have to see about removing the snapped off part of the bolt from inside of the head another time.

Don't mind the timing marks

[soundboy]

I liked everything besides the fried block you rebuilt. The parts everything looks good. Well thought out

[SoundEfx]

Nice rebuild.
I'm following this build as a guideline because I'm about to do the same thing, so keep the pictures and updates coming....

(Side note and a little derailment)
Yo SoundBoy, Trini 2 De Bone!!!!! lol...

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Originally Posted by soundboy

I liked everything besides the fried block you rebuilt. The parts everything looks good. Well thought out

Fried block I rebuilt? Not sure what you're referring to ha but thank you sir

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

Nice rebuild.
I'm following this build as a guideline because I'm about to do the same thing, so keep the pictures and updates coming....

Will do sir thanks! I'll update as I go and post pics as they come.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Got a few more things done today. I was able to remove the snapped off section of the cam cap bolt from the head today, got the camshafts in, and was able to get the upper timing chain on. What I did to get the snapped off par was to drill a hole down the center of it, got a torx bit slightly larger than the hole I drilled socket with an extension, and was able to hammer the torx bit in carefully through the hole I drilled causing the teeth on the torx bit to grab the bolt. I was then able to loosen the bolt until it came right out.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Decided to swap out the 232 s14 intake cam and swap it with my s13 248 exhaust cam. Rotated the 248 cam CCW 3 teeth.

[bennett1]

Wish I had e85 in my area

[unpaintedhatch]

Yeah i had some issues with the Clevite bearing also with my build did you happen to buy the bearings from FRsport?

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Originally Posted by unpaintedhatch

Yeah i had some issues with the Clevite bearing also with my build did you happen to buy the bearings from FRsport?

No I did not purchase from frsport. I actually bought them from a local guy unused unopened for $70 for both main and rod bearings. The Clevite thrust bearings come oversized .015mm thicker than should be even with their standard bearing size. What I did was sand the outter sides of the girdle side thrust bearing first with 400grit then finished with 1000 grit.

[Koukiii]

Originally Posted by 2.5T_/<ouki

Got a few more things done today. I was able to remove the snapped off section of the cam cap bolt from the head today, got the camshafts in, and was able to get the upper timing chain on. What I did to get the snapped off par was to drill a hole down the center of it, got a torx bit slightly larger than the hole I drilled socket with an extension, and was able to hammer the torx bit in carefully through the hole I drilled causing the teeth on the torx bit to grab the bolt. I was then able to loosen the bolt until it came right out.

Nice method for removing broken bolt. I will remember that!

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Originally Posted by Koukiii

Nice method for removing broken bolt. I will remember that!

Totally! I'm glad it honestly worked out as I thought I would have to spend more $ at the machine shop having someone remove it. Looks like I'll be back in this position with a different car LOL. Wife's motor mount bolts just snapped (yes both), which in turn, caused the passenger side axle/half shaft to rest against the chassis which basically ripped the CV boot making the axle useless lol.... FUN STUFF I gotta do within the next couple of days. Oh, and to top it off, I can only work on it at night.

[SoundEfx]

Damn man.
I guess the saying is true, when it rains, it pours.

Good luck with the fix.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

Damn man.
I guess the saying is true, when it rains, it pours.

Good luck with the fix.

Ha yeah ! That saying was def the case in my situation today. All is good now, got everything fixed today and with daylight (had to call off work).

Instead of sourcing those M12x1.75 studs, I just purchased hex bolts in that same thread pitch with about 40mm in length.

So this is what it looked like once I was able to remove the old beat up motor mount. Both studs had snapped off inside of the block.



Again, I was able to resolve this issue with the good ol' drill through the center and hammer a torx bit socket into it and loosen





New OEM FORD motor mount installed today with the hex head bolts instead of studs. The OEM mount was about $100 more than the cheap vatozone one, however I was willing to spend the extra $100 for piece of mind as I've read the cheap vatozone brand blows out in about a month or less LOL!

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Front crank oil seal came in along with the clutch pedal spacer I was fortunate to find! I'm using the s13 clutch pedal which doesn't have the spacer spot-welded to it like the s14 clutch pedal, as its spot-welded to the firewall on s13. In order to use the s13 clutch pedal on an s14 chassis you either need to make 30mm spacers or find the OEM spacer lol.






OH! And I may have purchased my coilovers . I went with Fortune-Auto 500 series coilovers with 7/6kg spring rates as this is my daily driver. Paid $1150 shipped to my door. These coilovers do have an estimated 3-4 week wait/build time as they are built-to-order.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Was able to work on the motor of a bit today. Installed the s13 248 exhaust cam today, got timing setup, and painted the upper and lower front covers.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

I picked myself up a used PeakBoost T3 top mount manifold! Thinking about hitting it with the black flameproof VHT stuff. Sorry for the crappy potato pictures, ones from the seller.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Did a bit more on the motor today. Replaced the front main oil seal, rebuilt oil pump with new OEM oil gears, plungers, shims, spring, and plunger bolt. Installed new OEM oil strainer/pickup and painted the valve cover wrinkle black.

[KAT-PWR]

Just curious what did the pump rebuild run you for the gears and pressure relief stuff?

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Just curious what did the pump rebuild run you for the gears and pressure relief stuff?

New OEM Gears (15020-S13001) - $32
http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/1502053f25

New OEM Regulator (15132-77A25) - $14
http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/1513277a25

So about $46 + shipping. Not bad for peace of mind.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Removed headlights, corner lights, front bumper, and bumper cover. Managed to drain the auto tranny fluid and get the heart transplant started!







And I thought it was pretty darn funny so had to share. Buddy came over for me to take a look at his bov for him as he claims it hasn't been opening or working properly lately. So of course the first thing we do is check the shims inside of the bov as well as the spring to make sure everything is still good. Well, the shims were there of course, ALL $0.75 worth

[ellopuppet]

HA! That's funny. Good to see progress.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Originally Posted by ellopuppet

HA! That's funny. Good to see progress.

Right on man thanks!

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Yanked the son of a gun out today! LOL not always the easiest doing it by yourself, but definitely always fun as you can move at your own pace! :mrgreen:



My little "oil pan" decided to tip over lol causing a spill while I was pulling the engine xD. Luckily cat litter to the rescue.

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Got a good amount of stuff done today. On a side note, does anyone have or know the part# for the oil pickup/strainer o-ring? I actually picked up an OEM Nissan oil pickup/strainer gasket as most the nissan motors use the same ID" pickup and center to center hole distance. Not sure if anyone has used this type of gasket here or not ? I'm just hoping it's air tight because if not, my oil pressure is going to suck :mrgreen: (no pun intended). It'll basically be like drinking out of a straw with a hole in it LOL. I'm thinking i'll be fine just thought I'd ask you guys.









New rear main seal was installed today as well.





Oil pan also went on today! This is the NA oil pan as I like to call it. I have a spare that I will be tapping/bunging for the turbo. That will go on once I'm ready to install the turbo AFTER the motor/clutch have both been broken in properly.

[damebash]

Such a beautiful KA, nice build man. Hoping to see this one through the end!

[2.5T_/<ouki]

Originally Posted by damebash

Such a beautiful KA, nice build man. Hoping to see this one through the end!

Thank you good sir !

[2.5T_/<ouki]

What I went with was a 45* mild steel bung so when I weld it on it will be at the perfect angle I need so I don't get oil buildup from a low spot in the return line; Wouldn't want to starve the motor of its precious oil! Also, mild steel M18x1.5 (mm) o2 plug (bung plug) and M18x1.5 to -10AN fitting. This all but cost me $18.