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Old 09-29-2015, 04:32 AM   #61
Felipe
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What kind of airbrush set up are you using?
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:42 PM   #62
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guess I need to start one of the 10 I have lol
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Old 10-25-2015, 02:28 AM   #63
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Old 10-25-2015, 05:31 AM   #64
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is that the kei office s15 ?
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:47 AM   #65
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Yup. Picked up 3 kits and did 2 'street' versions. Last one will be D1 version.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:40 AM   #66
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That hood looks nice!!!
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:57 AM   #67
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Just learning as I go....

URAS ER34 on VSKF's



Rocket Bunny FRS/BRZ


MCR Factory R34 GTR


Mazdaspeed GTC Concept FD3S


Wangan / Top End style NSX




Top Secret S15
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Old 10-26-2015, 12:00 PM   #68
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Kouki S14 with upgraded brakes, R34 GTR wheels, Exhaust & Rear diffuser and front mount intercooler




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R Tune R34 GTR



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Old 10-26-2015, 12:11 PM   #69
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Vertex FD3S



RASTY S13




Veilside MKIV Supra



FC3S on Model 5's


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Vertex S15 on TE37's.





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Old 10-27-2015, 10:17 AM   #70
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Nice kits man! Looks like they got better and better. Couple rare kits too! what are you using to glue the clear parts with? What paint/clear are you using?
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:39 PM   #71
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Nice kits man! Looks like they got better and better. Couple rare kits too! what are you using to glue the clear parts with? What paint/clear are you using?
Paint is the only thing I can't seem to get down 100%. I used to use generic paint from Home Depot, but now I use mostly Tamiya spray cans from the hobby store and then gloss clear. I got a generic airbrush kit, but it turned out very textured, no matter how I adjusted the airbrush, so I went back to the cans. I use a paint marker for window trim and other tidbits.

For clear parts, I usually outline the edges of headlight/tail light lenses in black to make them look a little cleaner, then use Elmers since it dries clear, or dab the edges in cement very lightly.

Definitely open to whatever advice you may have.

I also have the Kei Office S15, Weld JZX100, Kunnys JZX100, Blitz ER34, HKS S15, Greddy FD3S and Team Samurai FC3S, from the D1GP series, but I don't have the pictures uploaded yet.
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Old 10-27-2015, 01:06 PM   #72
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you have all the kits I haven't built yet , just started my type x kit
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Old 10-29-2015, 03:51 PM   #73
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Paint is the only thing I can't seem to get down 100%. I used to use generic paint from Home Depot, but now I use mostly Tamiya spray cans from the hobby store and then gloss clear. I got a generic airbrush kit, but it turned out very textured, no matter how I adjusted the airbrush, so I went back to the cans. I use a paint marker for window trim and other tidbits.

For clear parts, I usually outline the edges of headlight/tail light lenses in black to make them look a little cleaner, then use Elmers since it dries clear, or dab the edges in cement very lightly.

Definitely open to whatever advice you may have.

I also have the Kei Office S15, Weld JZX100, Kunnys JZX100, Blitz ER34, HKS S15, Greddy FD3S and Team Samurai FC3S, from the D1GP series, but I don't have the pictures uploaded yet.
Holy Shit!!!! Those are legit kits!!!

how do you lay your primer down? Are you thinning your paints when using the air brush? Have you tried wet sanding after spraying the color coat? You can wet sand using very high grit (like 3500) to bring it to a smooth surface even before spraying clear. It will make it pop up more under clear coat. Once you spray the clear you can wetsand (again) and polish to a very nice surface.

Id HIGHLY suggest using the 10 mL bottle of tamiya X-22 clear for clear parts. Not much risk of damaging clear parts and also it cleans up rather easy. I also do the "weather strip" to the lights, turns out more realistic. You should also mask and tape off the widnow trim. Tape the area off and with a sharp knife cut around the trim. Just becarefull if its a new blade not to go too deep and scar the plastic. When done right it looks 10000X better when sprayed with semi gloss black, X-18.


I just started the Blitz R34 and since the decals are 10 years old they completely got deteroriated when in warm water

If you ever find any D1 kits, let me know!!!
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Old 10-29-2015, 03:54 PM   #74
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Also, addding panel lines adds more realism to the models. There are various methods of doing them. The way I do them is using a 0.05 MM marker. Very easy and very clean.
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Old 10-29-2015, 07:58 PM   #75
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man these are great inspiration. now I just need to get off my ass and do something these upcoming winter months.
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Old 10-30-2015, 03:58 PM   #76
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I dont like doing panel lines on my models or RC bodies, but sometimes depending on the color, they do need it. I wonder what a model car would look like if you do the panels the same way you would for military airplanes, spraying black around all lines before applying the primer and paint.
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Old 11-03-2015, 02:45 PM   #77
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Body lines add more realism to the model IMO. Some people do over kill it though. Only parts Id do would be the doors, bumpers, fenders, trunk, sideskirts. I try to do them as lights as possible as well.

Ive never tried the body lines prior to primer. Doesnt seem like a bad idea but maybe more work to clean up though??
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Old 11-07-2015, 12:23 AM   #78
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man these are great inspiration. now I just need to get off my ass and do something these upcoming winter months.


Dont Be Lazy and do it lol
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:16 AM   #79
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Very precise builds. Scale building is an art.
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:35 PM   #80
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What are you guys using to adjust the drop.
Just bought a revell camaro 01 and aoshima kranze wheels.
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Old 01-15-2016, 04:09 PM   #81
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What are you guys using to adjust the drop.
Just bought a revell camaro 01 and aoshima kranze wheels.
It all depends on the model. For example, on the Aoshima S-Chassis, I remove the working spring and cut the top of the bump stop so the strut can travel further up. It all depends on how the model is built. You can play with the suspesnion and have great results. Did you get the LXZs from Ebay?
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:36 PM   #82
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I got aoshima wheels thru amazon.

i'm having problems fitting these wheel with the Camaro since its a solid axle
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:12 PM   #83
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https://youtu.be/eP_0wuegbhI

Maybe this can help
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Old 07-03-2016, 10:36 PM   #84
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Also, addding panel lines adds more realism to the models. There are various methods of doing them. The way I do them is using a 0.05 MM marker. Very easy and very clean.
What brand marker
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Old 07-10-2016, 02:11 AM   #85
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What brand marker
You can use Gunze Gundam markers or look for extra fine tip pens but the ink is less forgiving than those markers i mentioned.
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Old 01-28-2019, 02:49 PM   #86
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Is anyone still active in the hobby? Here’s a somewhat recent


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Old 01-30-2019, 08:46 AM   #87
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All your projects look really good. Ever do any UCF10/11? I thought I eyeballed a 20 once upon a time.
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Old 01-30-2019, 04:05 PM   #88
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Is anyone still active in the hobby?


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yes. very. just havent posted in a while...

i actually still have a Blitz Er34 i havent built... apperantly its worth good money now too
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Old 01-31-2019, 12:24 PM   #89
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All your projects look really good. Ever do any UCF10/11? I thought I eyeballed a 20 once upon a time.


I have done some VIP and have this one pictured in the works; however, things have been hectic for me and the hobby has been taking a back seat. I believe i was in Los Ángeles when i first posted and since have bounced from Texas to now Georgia. In the process of moving to my own apartment. Budget and life dont have space for this hobby so progess is very slow. By the way, i have kits im trying to unload if anyone is interested. Ive priced them low but the dang post office charging almost $10 for one kit shipped. Also been out of the R/C drift scene so im going to unload that stuff too and start living an old man life lol.


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Old 01-31-2019, 12:27 PM   #90
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I built this one while in Texas. It was started when i was still in L.A. Took a few years


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