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Old 12-01-2020, 10:36 AM   #23551
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Can someone measure their Z32 front conversion lines for S14? I’m reading 9” length, but is that hose end to hose end or fitting end to fitting end. Thank you
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Old 12-01-2020, 11:17 AM   #23552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afishysilvia View Post
Can someone measure their Z32 front conversion lines for S14? I?m reading 9? length, but is that hose end to hose end or fitting end to fitting end. Thank you
9" might be how long the rear lines are, but that's way too short for front lines. Only spent a few minutes searching, but the only thing I found that even shows a 9" measurement is an old FRSPORT listing. That measurement actually looks like the size of the box, not the length of hose. Are you trying to have your own hoses made, or verify you have correct parts?
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Old 12-01-2020, 11:25 AM   #23553
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Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
9" might be how long the rear lines are, but that's way too short for front lines. Only spent a few minutes searching, but the only thing I found that even shows a 9" measurement is an old FRSPORT listing. That measurement actually looks like the size of the box, not the length of hose. Are you trying to have your own hoses made, or verify you have correct parts?
My thoughts exactly, seemed very short. I?m doing a ctsv swap but I can use z32 lines. Just was gonna go to my local hose man but wanted the proper measurement. Wanted length of the actual length from fitting end to end.
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Old 12-01-2020, 02:06 PM   #23554
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Has anyone ever swindled rock auto on a core refund? Specifically giving stock S13 calipers for Z32 units. I bet if the receiving employee doesn't get paid enough they will see calipers and be like "ok good". Could potentially get some super cheap Z32 units.

I can't comment on the hose length, but fishysilvia's Q made me think to ask something that's been on my mind. Apologies ahead of time if anyone thinks this is unethical, I'd rather pull this move on Autozone than Rock, but I kindof trust Rock auto to get the 30/26mm distinction more accurate and I'd trust a raybestos rebuild over Duralast.
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Old 12-01-2020, 03:51 PM   #23555
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Has anyone ever swindled rock auto on a core refund? Specifically giving stock S13 calipers for Z32 units. I bet if the receiving employee doesn't get paid enough they will see calipers and be like "ok good". Could potentially get some super cheap Z32 units.

I can't comment on the hose length, but fishysilvia's Q made me think to ask something that's been on my mind. Apologies ahead of time if anyone thinks this is unethical, I'd rather pull this move on Autozone than Rock, but I kindof trust Rock auto to get the 30/26mm distinction more accurate and I'd trust a raybestos rebuild over Duralast.

Autozone doesnt give a shit what core is in the box. Aslong as its the same part..caliper for caliper, alternator for alternator, etc...thats it

I wouldnt tryn rockauto for the fact if they have an issue i bet they wouldnt send back the core calipers lol.
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Old 12-01-2020, 04:01 PM   #23556
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Autozone doesnt give a shit what core is in the box. Aslong as its the same part..caliper for caliper, alternator for alternator, etc...thats it

I wouldnt tryn rockauto for the fact if they have an issue i bet they wouldnt send back the core calipers lol.
I have no doubts it would go right through and wouldn't think twice about fucking over AZ, Advance, etc. Rockauto is just cheaper, less likely to be wrong (in my experience dealing with them and parts stores extensively). I also have a good amount of dicked S13 calipers lol.
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Old 12-01-2020, 04:31 PM   #23557
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Old 12-14-2020, 02:12 AM   #23558
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Getting rid of my sealed beams on my new chassis. Raybrig H4 or Hella H4? Which is better?
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Old 12-14-2020, 04:17 PM   #23559
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Getting rid of my sealed beams on my new chassis. Raybrig H4 or Hella H4? Which is better?
If you want to be able to see well, Hella. If you want a cool looking headlight, Raybrig.
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Old 12-14-2020, 04:23 PM   #23560
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Has anyone ever swindled rock auto on a core refund? Specifically giving stock S13 calipers for Z32 units. I bet if the receiving employee doesn't get paid enough they will see calipers and be like "ok good". Could potentially get some super cheap Z32 units..
This is how parts become unavailable down the road when the companies decide to quit doing remans since they don't get the correct cores back...
At least get some old blown leaky z32's to send in so someone else down the road has a chance to order some.
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Old 12-17-2020, 01:00 PM   #23561
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Anyone got a picture of stock r33 wheels on an s13 with stock fenders (no roll/pull)?

Or would anyone know what fitment would I be looking at?

My goal would be to preserve stock arches (in the back) or at worst roll them flat, not sure if it would be possible without achieving a small pull as a side effect from rolling.

Planning on running BC coilovers.

Thanks for the responses.
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Old 12-17-2020, 01:23 PM   #23562
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hes running a 215/45 up front, and a 235/40 in the rear. he has a 5mm spacer up front. If you need more reference, just look up any 17x9+30 wheel fitment on rimtuck.com
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Old 12-17-2020, 01:32 PM   #23563
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Quote:
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hes running a 215/45 up front, and a 235/40 in the rear. he has a 5mm spacer up front. If you need more reference, just look up any 17x9+30 wheel fitment on rimtuck.com
Thanks for the quick reply! Would you know if the arches are rolled or completely stock, hard to tell from the picture. I will check out rimtuck. Thanks
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Old 12-17-2020, 02:33 PM   #23564
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not sure on that one. from the looks of it, you may be able to get away with keeping the rear stock, and the fronts may have the inner lip folded in. I'm sure someone else will chime in, it's a popular enough setup that someone here with firsthand experience will let you know.
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Old 12-22-2020, 11:33 AM   #23565
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Can anyone confirm that the 97-98 Kouki wiring harness connector for the ecu is the same style for both the KA24 and the SR20? I know the pins are different, but is the physical plastic connector the same across both engines? I tried a lot of searches but was only getting zenki to kouki engine swap results.

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Old 12-23-2020, 08:03 PM   #23566
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Can anyone confirm that the 97-98 Kouki wiring harness connector for the ecu is the same style for both the KA24 and the SR20? I know the pins are different, but is the physical plastic connector the same across both engines? I tried a lot of searches but was only getting zenki to kouki engine swap results.

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The OBD2 KA ecu connector is completely different than the SR connector.
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:20 PM   #23567
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Single cam KA -
Two wires that are loomed with alternator harness. Nothing concrete from wiring diagram. EGR solenoid valve (solenoid that is below intake plenum and gets vacuum from hose top of throttle body) is missing its plug, need confirmation if that's where it goes.
//Looks like those two wires are for power steering pressure sensor.
//egr sol valve is brown + light green wires

I'm also assuming egr solenoid valve controls the vacuum going to egr but since its not electronically connected does that mean the egr is just running on atmospheric vacuum? If so, cruising fwy speeds egr doesn't open any more than atmo.?

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Old 12-23-2020, 10:03 PM   #23568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afishysilvia View Post
My thoughts exactly, seemed very short. I?m doing a ctsv swap but I can use z32 lines. Just was gonna go to my local hose man but wanted the proper measurement. Wanted length of the actual length from fitting end to end.
Might save you a headache. Are you doing the 6-pot or 4-pot fronts? I did the 6-pot fronts, and everywhere I read said to use Z32 brake lines, but both the front & rear calipers used banjo fittings. There is nowhere on the 2nd gen calipers for the z32 compression fittings to actually stop & seal up. Not sure if the first gens are different, I doubt it. However, you can actually use 240sx brake lines, as they are banjos and have the same thread pattern?that's what I did.

IMO I would just get some braided replacement lines, so you get the piece that clips the line in place against the shock housing.
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Old 12-26-2020, 03:51 PM   #23569
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180k mile s14 Ka24de good compression

I will be putting a t28 with 7-10psi on this car.

Oil: Currently use 10w30 Castrol GTX conventional. Can I continue using this oil or should I switch to the synthetic version?



What do I do with this hose? I believe it is the PAIR vacuum line and connects to the throttle body?

Do I just cap it off?


EGR parts will remain in place except the EGR tube will be capped off.

Where is the ideal source for BOV and Boost Gauge?
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Old 12-28-2020, 10:41 AM   #23570
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So I'm getting (open) diff seals changed cause they are all leaking.
Anyone recommend synthetic or should I stick with regular.
Daily driver with spirited driving.
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Old 01-01-2021, 07:59 AM   #23571
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Seriously why bother buying put a down payment on a house!!

Are s13 & s14 really selling for 10K plus??? You got to be dumb as fuck to buy a salvage title s14 for 7k let alone for $10-13K !

What are your thoughts??
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Old 01-01-2021, 03:57 PM   #23572
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Are s13 & s14 really selling for 10K plus??? You got to be dumb as fuck to buy a salvage title s14 for 7k let alone for $10-13K !

What are your thoughts??
the 240sx scene saw that bone stock S13 zenki hatch sell for $30k+ and now everyone thinks their beat to death s-chassis is worth huge amounts of money. i kinda got into it with a seller on FB. dude wanted $8000 for a clapped out hatch that had an SR in it with a load of ISR parts... he decided to call me "old man" and proceeded to tell me that i dont know what im talking about.

like, if your car is nicely built and well kept, its one thing to ask a pretty penny for it because that asking price is justified... but asking $8000-$10,000 for something that looks like it went thru a cement mixer and is littered with nothing but low end quality parts, yeah... just no

we do live in very strange times.
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Old 01-01-2021, 04:33 PM   #23573
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Thumbs down Let?s make better choices!!! S14 S13 owners and future owners!!

I?m not hating, but I really think some people think there s14 specially will sell
For $13,000 (reality check), I?ll spell it; ?Thirteen Thousand Dollars?; on a salvage title that will not pass smog in CALIFORNIA.







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the 240sx scene saw that bone stock S13 zenki hatch sell for $30k+ and now everyone thinks their beat to death s-chassis is worth huge amounts of money. i kinda got into it with a seller on FB. dude wanted $8000 for a clapped out hatch that had an SR in it with a load of ISR parts... he decided to call me "old man" and proceeded to tell me that i dont know what im talking about.

like, if your car is nicely built and well kept, its one thing to ask a pretty penny for it because that asking price is justified... but asking $8000-$10,000 for something that looks like it went thru a cement mixer and is littered with nothing but low end quality parts, yeah... just no

we do live in very strange times.
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Old 01-07-2021, 09:39 PM   #23574
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Hi all, trying to leverage those who have had their engines rebuilt by reputable shops, like TF Works.

What #s am I looking at for labor on a complete refresh for SR20: oem seals, gaskets, rings, bearings, deck and clean block and head, rebuilding head, cleaning and reusing pistons and rods. Basically take engine apart, clean it and replace all worn out parts with clean OEM parts that I provide.

Thank you

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Old 01-08-2021, 07:57 AM   #23575
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So I'm getting (open) diff seals changed cause they are all leaking.
Anyone recommend synthetic or should I stick with regular.
Daily driver with spirited driving.
Most gear oil is full synthetic. I run an 80w-90 GL5 gear oil in my diff and always have. If you're wondering about the axle shaft seals themselves, I usually use Timken or National.
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Old 01-08-2021, 08:20 PM   #23576
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How do I stop getting turbo flutter on my KA-T setup?

S15 T28, 550cc, Z32 MAF, Enthalpy ECU, Greddy suction intake, CXRacing intercooler kit/BOV

So I have my vacuum lines as shown below but T'd off on the brake booster instead.




I have the valve cover breather hose and the BOV outlet being T'd into the turbine intake.

Is this proper or is the air getting pushed into the valvecover and turbo when I release the throttle?

I have the BOV set to the softest setting but still get turbo flutter. Is this because it is a copy CXRacing BOV and not a real one? A Greddy Type FV is arriving soon...

If I let the revs free fall from over 3k when in neutral, the car will stall out or hit 500 rpm then catch itself back to idle.
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Old 01-08-2021, 08:37 PM   #23577
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I have the BOV set to the softest setting but still get turbo flutter. Is this because it is a copy CXRacing BOV and not a real one?
i think you answered your own question.

CXRacing is Chinese made garbage.

ive been running an HKS SSQV3 for 10 years... zero issues! dont waste your money on Chinese made crap!
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Old 01-08-2021, 08:46 PM   #23578
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i think you answered your own question.

CXRacing is Chinese made garbage.

ive been running an HKS SSQV3 for 10 years... zero issues! dont waste your money on Chinese made crap!
lol yea since it came with the intercooler kit I just went with it. Everything else I bought new from real companies. Real Greddy comes in tomorrow. The T'd BOV/Valve cover is ok though?
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Old 01-09-2021, 10:42 AM   #23579
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Radio stays on sometimes after i turn the car off and take the key out.


Bad ground somewhere?
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Old 01-21-2021, 07:11 AM   #23580
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Morning all.

My MR2 is not boosting well and just recently started spitting oil out the BOV. I'm thinking turbo is shot (I've got a spare). Or could this be a symptom of something else?
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