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Old 03-07-2014, 09:55 PM   #91
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Is using a MSD RPM activated switch necessary? Or is it only if you are using a ROM tune? I am planning to use Haltech.
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:18 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramonesfreak2010 View Post
Is using a MSD RPM activated switch necessary? Or is it only if you are using a ROM tune? I am planning to use Haltech.
http://www.nismotronic.com/ s13 ecu yes, s14 no.
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Old 03-08-2014, 01:27 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramonesfreak2010 View Post
Is using a MSD RPM activated switch necessary? Or is it only if you are using a ROM tune? I am planning to use Haltech.
RPM switch is only when running non VTC ECU S13 SR20 and others. S14/S15 ecu has a built-in switch that can be used to trigger the VVL. Your basically using what used to trigger the VTC solenoid to now the VVL solenoid. There are exception for S13 KA/SR ECU who choose to go Nismotronic it's custom firmware allow provisions for several input and output that can be used for VVL activation and others.

Overall since your going with Haltech which should have onboard RPM switching capabilities you wouldn't need an separate RPM switch.
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Old 03-08-2014, 07:38 AM   #94
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Thanks guys.
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Old 03-08-2014, 09:05 AM   #95
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To add to what Ground is saying, the S14/15 ECU only has one switch output/input on the ECU so you're stuck switching both cams at the same time. Now that isn't a huge disadvantage, but to get the most out of the system on a P11 head, you'd want to switch cams at separate times. The P12 head used one solenoid to switch both cams at the same time, but their cams have a completely different profile than the P11's.

Haltech has the ability to switch both cams separate from each other. I'm running a Ps2000 on my setup and plan to find the best combination for the switch point.
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:01 PM   #96
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Not as fancy as the others.


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Old 03-09-2014, 09:52 PM   #97
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^^ Very nice! I was initially going exactly this route with an HX40 and Xcessive intake manifold. But decided to keep it nice simple and clean. So I stayed bottom Mount. Nothing fancy myself. Below is the preview for whats to come for my VET build..

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Old 03-09-2014, 10:09 PM   #98
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the first picture...is that a compound turbo setup?
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:59 PM   #99
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the first picture...is that a compound turbo setup?
No sir.. I was just mocking things debating to go top mount or bottom. For now ive decided to stay bottom to expedite build by reusing available parts and focus more on head and bottom end parts. I could easily upgrade later should I wanted more. Target goal with 20g bottom mount and high compression motor is at around 400-500whp running e85.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:51 AM   #100
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No sir.. I was just mocking things debating to go top mount or bottom. For now ive decided to stay bottom to expedite build by reusing available parts and focus more on head and bottom end parts. I could easily upgrade later should I wanted more. Target goal with 20g bottom mount and high compression motor is at around 400-500whp running e85.
hah damn, would have been an interesting setup if it was. I'm also running E85 on my VVL and should be low 700whp on a bottom mount Precision 5862.
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:16 AM   #101
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If for any reason you guys use the OEM throttle body from the P11 motors make sure to take out the butter fly screws and put lock tight on them.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:09 AM   #102
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hah damn, would have been an interesting setup if it was. I'm also running E85 on my VVL and should be low 700whp on a bottom mount Precision 5862.
I think I remember you. Arent you doing your setup in a 350z?
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:07 PM   #103
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I think I remember you. Arent you doing your setup in a 350z?
Yes, Sir. probably around the end of this year it'll be getting finished up hah
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:00 AM   #104
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Yes, Sir. probably around the end of this year it'll be getting finished up hah
Cool man. Yea I helped you setup your engine and the dry sump kit at my previous place of employment :0
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:59 PM   #105
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I feel like there is a TON of info scattered all over the internet about this swap. I'm talking about specs in the FSM. I joined multiple forums and clicked sketchy links on sites like rapidshare, etc. lol

I have uploaded what I found, and I also have the P11 SR20VE FSM in a PDF. Unfortunately, it is not translated and looked like someone had scanned it at home. If you want it, just send me a PM with your email.

Anyway, here are some things I have found. May not help some guys out, but it did for me when I was looking for specs for valve clearances.

http://s144.photobucket.com/user/ram...E%20FSM%20Info

For example,
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:32 PM   #106
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Cool man. Yea I helped you setup your engine and the dry sump kit at my previous place of employment :0
Well then thank you for helping out with the build, Sir!
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:56 AM   #107
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This is my setup. You have to trim the inside of the p11 valve cover to clear the taarks Hall effect pickup. I'm running an Autronic sm2 for my EMS. The taarks setup is designed for the haltech EMS's. I am having a custom plenum made currently for much setup. I'll post pics and the builder after I get it and see the quality.

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Old 03-18-2014, 06:31 PM   #108
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Question about rom tune: Currently have enthalpy. I know the major changes in a rom tune are injectors and maf.

With the VE head having such a different cam profile and duration, should we get the ecu retuned? If yes, then will he be able to figure out when the cam changes or is the maf enough to compensate?
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:04 PM   #109
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Yes retune for sure ! Enthalply knows how to tune the vvl just call them

I saw a couple videos from cars they tuned and its rom tune
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:09 PM   #110
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Quote:
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This is my setup. You have to trim the inside of the p11 valve cover to clear the taarks Hall effect pickup. I'm running an Autronic sm2 for my EMS. The taarks setup is designed for the haltech EMS's. I am having a custom plenum made currently for much setup. I'll post pics and the builder after I get it and see the quality.

I had to shave my p12 cover to for the hall sensor wheel on my cam gear to clear the inside . I love the fac that you just had to pop a frost plug off to instal that hall sensor not like my mazworx that needed machining

Whats that turbo size ? Power goal ? Looking good
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:32 PM   #111
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Looks good Dave, thanks for your help on NRR.

Latest and greatest.

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Old 03-19-2014, 03:08 AM   #112
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Sure thing Jr. Also you may wanna add a secondary check valve to your valve cover breather on the left side. Under boost that one could easily push some boost into your engines breather system.

I do love the taarks Hall effect setup. I do know that the sensor they use is sometimes dodgy, but it's a cheap one to have an extra sitting around.

Also the turbo I have is a Borg Warner S360sx with a t4 .82 common tangential exhaust housing. My goal is 500whp. The bottom end has pistons and rods with a full refresh. The manifold I bought second hand and it needed a spacer to move the turbo away from the head, but for $150 it's hard to beats.
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:36 AM   #113
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Jr. why you decided to keep the pcv valve ? I wanted to put a catch can fitting from there
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:00 PM   #114
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It would be smart to put a catch can in between and draw a vacuum on it with a secondary check valve.
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:12 PM   #115
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No particular reason why I left it. It was there, it works from the factory, why not reinstall it? However, Dave made a good point that I could potentially pressurize my crankcase through the small check valve there, so I may eliminate it altogether.

As it sits, I'm pulling some serious vacuum on the CC with my catch-can setup. I need to put a gauge on it to see just how much vacuum, as I don't want an extreme amount. I'm looking for 5-7in/hg or so.
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:02 PM   #116
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Teaser pic of the work that the guy is doing with a custom plenum.

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Old 03-22-2014, 08:02 PM   #117
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Mehhh Xcessive looks way better than that. and it's a bolt on.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:27 AM   #118
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This is bolt on, has a much greater volume, and doesn't have sealing problems like xcessive's plenums do. I'll take function over form any day of the week... Then again this is zilvia so I can't expect too much.

Not to mention if you send him your runners, rail, and throttle body he will port match the runners, match the rail and throttle body for clearance, and anything else you want for very reasonable prices.
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Old 03-23-2014, 01:21 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramonesfreak2010 View Post
Is using a MSD RPM activated switch necessary? Or is it only if you are using a ROM tune? I am planning to use Haltech.
It is actually easy to wire up the solenoids just be tapping an RPM switch into the cluster. Any cheap RPM switch from Jegs or Summit Racing can do it.

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Old 03-23-2014, 02:05 PM   #120
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Quote:
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It is actually easy to wire up the solenoids just be tapping an RPM switch into the cluster. Any cheap RPM switch from Jegs or Summit Racing can do it.

If he is using a Haltech that has VTEC capabilities, he doesn't need an RPM switch. Just wire in your solenoids to the spare DPO's.
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