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Old 07-01-2020, 06:16 AM   #451
PoorMans180SX
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More parts rolling in. Boring I know.



DIYautotune trigger disc for factory CAS.



Rocker guides.

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Old 07-01-2020, 12:47 PM   #452
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Wow, that motor is a mess! Definitely needs the love an attention you?re giving it!
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Old 07-05-2020, 01:40 PM   #453
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Wow, that motor is a mess! Definitely needs the love an attention you?re giving it!
Yeah for sure. It'll be nice to know it's 100% when it's done.

Made some progress today. Swapped over the suspension from the other chassis. Definitely need to take some LCA length out and add some more low.







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Old 07-05-2020, 04:37 PM   #454
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What Motegis are those? They look pretty damn nice!
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Old 07-06-2020, 05:09 AM   #455
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What Motegis are those? They look pretty damn nice!
They are MR135s. They?ve been discontinued unfortunately.
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Old 07-06-2020, 03:01 PM   #456
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Love to see the progress!
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Old 07-11-2020, 05:33 PM   #457
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Machinist sent me some pics of the oil pump, which is obviously junk and makes sense given the rest of the engine. I didn't have a impact screwdriver to take it apart, glad he did.










I see your oil pump...and rasie you mine....




Sorry for pic size..


Any updates on the build?
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Old 07-11-2020, 08:10 PM   #458
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Originally Posted by S14rebuild View Post
I see your oil pump...and rasie you mine....
Sorry for pic size..


Any updates on the build?
It?s not hard to resize them...

Poor, what are you doing with the motor? Basic rebuild?
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Old 07-11-2020, 09:45 PM   #459
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It?s not hard to resize them...

Poor, what are you doing with the motor? Basic rebuild?

Ive tried to resize them, cant figured it out, no bueno...im computer dumb
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:58 AM   #460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_ss View Post
It?s not hard to resize them...

Poor, what are you doing with the motor? Basic rebuild?
Everything needed re-machining, and the block is currently done but I'm waiting on pistons for the final hone. The mains were .002" tight vertically, so it was line-honed or align-honed, whichever term you prefer.

I was going with a Diamond piston with upgraded tool steel pin, but I guess Diamond was just acquired by a big umbrella corporation that already owns most of the piston manufacturers and a bunch of people quit... I might end up with different pistons hah.

I went with Wiseco boostline rods because I like the design and they should be bulletproof for all a non-sleeved bottom end can handle. Not a huge fan of cheap h-beams.

Other than King race bearings, yes, you're typical re-machine and re-build, deck the head, new oil pump etc. Still need to figure out if I can just lap the valves in (a few failed the water test) or if I need a new valve job. If I need a valve job I'll probably actually CC the combustion chamber, since everyone thinks it's the most important thing in the world, hah.

I may add some Kelford 266/260 cams with their valve springs and adjustable gears as well, again mostly dependent on how long it takes to get this stuff here. If I do, I'll have what I consider the "ultimate" street SR20DET besides maybe some Ferrea valves, which would just be icing on the cake, but probably not in the cards.
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Old 07-13-2020, 06:22 AM   #461
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....yep

http://www.racewinningbrands.eu/News...-Pistons-and-T
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Old 07-13-2020, 06:52 AM   #462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
That's the one!

Oh also, I did figure out that you can use larger washers on both the head studs and the main studs than the ones that come with the ARP's. This should distribute the clamp load over a slightly larger area. I used two sets of these:

https://www.whalenspeed.com/products...d-large-washer

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Old 07-14-2020, 09:41 AM   #463
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Chopped my LCA's and reduced them from 50mm extension to 20mm extension. I also welded in a lock stop in the notched area as I really don't want to have to worry about moving the rack forward with this car. To my surprise I still have around 4.5* negative camber with the strut tops all the way out to the stock ring. It'll be interesting dialing this thing in and figuring out the balance of the setup. I do think the geomasters on the drift setting push the knuckle out farther than a stock style knuckle would, hence the camber.









Also flipped the sway bar arms the right way, hah.

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Old 07-14-2020, 08:14 PM   #464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
That's the one!

Oh also, I did figure out that you can use larger washers on both the head studs and the main studs than the ones that come with the ARP's. This should distribute the clamp load over a slightly larger area. I used two sets of these:

https://www.whalenspeed.com/products...d-large-washer

Is that 25$ for a set of 8, 10 or each?

My motor is in pieces right now too. Sending it down to AHM just outside Baltimore per recommendation of Chris(RalliartRsX). Chris, has done many Nissan engines and I feel confident in his capabilities. I?ll be align-honing my mains, upgrading the std JE piston pins to Trend performance units with DLC coating, adding a Plazamann girdle and swapping out my Eagle rods for my Carrillo Pro- H beams. Ultimately, I had to tear it down for the deck to be machined anyway, so a few upgrades, new bearings and possibly a hone were in order. After all, this motor has been assembled for 10years.
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Old 07-16-2020, 05:50 AM   #465
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Quote:
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Is that 25$ for a set of 8, 10 or each?

My motor is in pieces right now too. Sending it down to AHP just outside Baltimore per recommendation of Chris(RalliartRsX). Chris, has done many Nissan engines and I feel confident in his capabilities. I?ll be align-honing my mains, upgrading the std JE piston pins to Trend performance units with DLC coating, adding a Plazamann girdle and swapping out my Eagle rods for my Carrillo Pro- H beams. Ultimately, I had to tear it down for the deck to be machined anyway, so a few upgrades, new bearings and possibly a hone were in order. After all, this motor has been assembled for 10years.
That is a set of 10.
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Old 07-16-2020, 09:54 AM   #466
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Those washers are for standard sizing arp studs? Or larger maxworks ones?
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Old 07-16-2020, 10:10 AM   #467
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Originally Posted by S14rebuild View Post
Those washers are for standard sizing arp studs? Or larger maxworks ones?
Standard 11mm.
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Old 07-16-2020, 10:52 AM   #468
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Sweet, gonna pick up a set. Thanks for the info.

Ur build has inspired me to put some more effort into my sr aswell..do it right once!


Question, whats ur take on the sr oil squirters? Keep them or ditch them..herd pros and cons both ways
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Old 07-16-2020, 12:04 PM   #469
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^^ Unless you are on a full race engine and are chasing oil pressure, there is zero reason to ditch the oil squirters
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Old 07-18-2020, 08:12 PM   #470
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Sweet, gonna pick up a set. Thanks for the info.

Ur build has inspired me to put some more effort into my sr aswell..do it right once!


Question, whats ur take on the sr oil squirters? Keep them or ditch them..herd pros and cons both ways

Why would you want to get rid of them? They serve multiple purposes, the main one being extra oil capacity thrown at the wrist pin.

Quote:
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^^ Unless you are on a full race engine and are chasing oil pressure, there is zero reason to ditch the oil squirters
Even the full race motors they are a benefit, not a handicap. Nick Hunter and I had a discussion about this the other day. There are 3 or 4 different squirters, with each one is aimed at a slightly different position than the other. He mentioned something about GTIR?s have an oil boss on the underside of the piston that the squirter actually shoots the jet of oil into for additional piston cooling and lubrication. Pretty trick stuff for factory HyperU pistons.
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Old 07-18-2020, 09:15 PM   #471
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Yeah, I have a pic of the GTI-R rod somewhere. Its an odd looking protrusion if you see it

I see no need to drop the squirter in all honesty
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Old 07-20-2020, 05:53 AM   #472
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Yeah I'm keeping the squirters. They probably make a little additional windage and aren't strictly necessary with forged pistons, but I'll take the benefit of lubrication over a tiny bit of frictional loss.
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Old 07-20-2020, 09:06 AM   #473
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Yeah I'm keeping the squirters. They probably make a little additional windage and aren't strictly necessary with forged pistons, but I'll take the benefit of lubrication over a tiny bit of frictional loss.


Gotcha, was just wondering why a few sr part sites were offering delete kits for the squiters.

Sorry for the thread jack.....waiting for updates
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Old 07-20-2020, 09:08 AM   #474
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Powerwashed the bay. Also removed the battery tray and airbox/coil brackets with a spot weld drill bit. I'll take some pictures later today when I remove the powersteering and brake lines. Also ordered 50mm wide Origin front fenders from Touge Factory because why not haha. I'll save these fenders at some point, but I just want to drive.



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Old 07-21-2020, 07:08 AM   #475
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Nice and clean.

Thanks for the Head and Main stud washer link. I ordered two sets yesterday.
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Old 07-21-2020, 12:49 PM   #476
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Nice and clean.

Thanks for the Head and Main stud washer link. I ordered two sets yesterday.
For sure, not sure why nobody has picked up on it before. Every little bit helps.

Finally got the bay "clean" and removed all the necessary rubbish. As you can see, it has some issues. I think I'll just scuff it up, shoot some primer on the bare areas, and rattle can it with paint that supposed to match. Typical S13 issues all around, but it's too much to fix right now because I need to drive! I have Ultra Racing strut tower bars, C-pillar brace, and floor brace coming; combined with the tension rod brace and harness bar, that'll hopefully be enough to keep it from tearing itself apart for a while.













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Old 07-21-2020, 05:12 PM   #477
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Interesting that your strut towers cracked at the drivers side brake line pass through, mine did too, wonder how many others have the same issue.
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Old 07-21-2020, 07:03 PM   #478
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Interesting that your strut towers cracked at the drivers side brake line pass through, mine did too, wonder how many others have the same issue.
Two of the s13s I currently have was both cracked on both of the brake line pass through. Must be pretty common.
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Old 07-22-2020, 12:09 PM   #479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by projectsupra View Post
Interesting that your strut towers cracked at the drivers side brake line pass through, mine did too, wonder how many others have the same issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by super240sx7185 View Post
Two of the s13s I currently have was both cracked on both of the brake line pass through. Must be pretty common.
My other S13 is cracked there as well. Same side and everything.

This is where I needed to put my strut top for about -3.5* camber. Knuckles are maxed positive. Origin 50mm wide fenders are coming. This should be about halfway between a max angle drift-only setup and a very basic oem-style setup. Right where I want to learn how to drive. Eventually this car will probably go back to stock fenders and a very oem+ setup, and the orange chassis will go to a more drift oriented max-angle setup.



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Old 07-22-2020, 06:09 PM   #480
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I wouldn’t say it is “cracked”. It is just the seam sealer breaking away from, well the seam. The rust underneath is causing that.
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