sr20det maf?

[JayJay240sx]

whenever i open the throttle in lower rpm the car seems to studder a lot once the turbo kicks in, ive cleaned the maf and the tps is new, but i suspect the maf is crapping out on me, can anyone confirm this? and if so i cant seem to find an oem maf anywhere and i don't wanna shop off ebay for it, i have a 92 s13 240sx with a red top sr20, any help would be appreciated.

[AUSs14200sx]

How much boost are you running?
I had the same issue a while ago and it turned out to be fouled spark plugs, probably from running rich having vent to air bov, and too much slow city driving.

[JayJay240sx]

Originally Posted by AUSs14200sx

How much boost are you running?
I had the same issue a while ago and it turned out to be fouled spark plugs, probably from running rich having vent to air bov, and too much slow city driving.

im completely stock, I have a bad wastegate spring so I ordered an hks actuator, however im either running 7 psi or lower, im in the process of permanently installing boost gauges lol, I only rigged in for a few for a test run cus I ran the vacuum out the side of my window to test my car, but anyway im bone stock with minor upgrades like walbro fuel pump, down pipe to test pipe, new fuel filter, and hks intake but that's about it, this problem has been bugging me but I cant find an sr20det s13 maf anywhere

[ultimateirving]

Hve you checked for codes? the ecu would tell you if its sensing maf errors or issues

[JayJay240sx]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Hve you checked for codes? the ecu would tell you if its sensing maf errors or issues

my check engine light never comes on, the jackass before me must have unplugged it, however Im sure if I ran a scan itll tell me some codes, im just working on tryna buy the obd1 plug and a scanner for my sr20, autozone didn't have one they only do obd2 and they never even heard of an sr20 lol, but ill run a scan soon as I can, im hoping its just the maf, do you know where I can find a replacement one? I cant find one anywheree

[bmxer882x]

More than likely they didn't hook up the consult port when they did the swap.
maf problems are normally around 3k which is right around where a t25 builds boost. So i'd say your probably spot on.

For a replacement I'd look on the forums here is a good place to start. If not here then id look for a sohc maf and swap your plug over.

[JayJay240sx]

Originally Posted by bmxer882x

More than likely they didn't hook up the consult port when they did the swap.
maf problems are normally around 3k which is right around where a t25 builds boost. So i'd say your probably spot on.

For a replacement I'd look on the forums here is a good place to start. If not here then id look for a sohc maf and swap your plug over.

true, ill check n see, and hopefully it is, its getting annoying not to be able to go wot on lower rpms sometimes n having my car studder, but yeah ill try and confirm the problem, thanks again

[codyace]

If you are sitting still/car nuetral can you free rev without issue or does it still shutter?

If it free revs fine, then I'd be checking for vacuum leaks/couplers off/couplers not tight (could suck in under vacuum and push out under boost, causing it to shutter)

Also check the plugs, they could be fouled or you may have too much gap too. Get them to .025" BGK 4644 (bkr7e)

[JayJay240sx]

Originally Posted by codyace

If you are sitting still/car nuetral can you free rev without issue or does it still shutter?

If it free revs fine, then I'd be checking for vacuum leaks/couplers off/couplers not tight (could suck in under vacuum and push out under boost, causing it to shutter)

Also check the plugs, they could be fouled or you may have too much gap too. Get them to .025" BGK 4644 (bkr7e)

when in neutral yeah I could rev it and no problem occurs, I was curious about if it could be a vacuum problem too cus my car idles low sometimes when coming off a gear to a stop sign or light n then comes back up, ill check my hoses tomarrow and check out sparkplugs as well, do you think I should get iridium tips? or just regular bkr7e would be fine? I was gonna up the heat range to 7 anyway since I just got my hks actuator n I was planning to up the boost to 10psi, but anyway ill check my hoses, thanks again for the info

[codyace]

Just get regular copper plugs until you sort out the issue. if you have a major vacuum/boost leak it's gonna foul the plugs out so buy 8 just in case and keep them as spares (tip: gap the plugs as soon as you get home, and keep a spare set in the car emergency tool box...that way you can change them quickly if you foul them in the future). 7 range for sure, gap them to the .025 and she'll be happy. With that said just make sure the rest of the setup is in good shape before changing the actuator too, as problems will only be worse.

If you can rev in neutral with no issue it's either a severe leak, or a wonky MAF.

The coming up to a stop sign/off boost stall/funny running can be caused from a un recirculated BOV, a leak BOV, or as before a severe vacuum leak.


Good luck!

[JayJay240sx]

Originally Posted by codyace

Just get regular copper plugs until you sort out the issue. if you have a major vacuum/boost leak it's gonna foul the plugs out so buy 8 just in case and keep them as spares (tip: gap the plugs as soon as you get home, and keep a spare set in the car emergency tool box...that way you can change them quickly if you foul them in the future). 7 range for sure, gap them to the .025 and she'll be happy. With that said just make sure the rest of the setup is in good shape before changing the actuator too, as problems will only be worse.

If you can rev in neutral with no issue it's either a severe leak, or a wonky MAF.

The coming up to a stop sign/off boost stall/funny running can be caused from a un recirculated BOV, a leak BOV, or as before a severe vacuum leak.


Good luck!

aright so I changed my actuator and checked my hoses, everything seemed to be on nice n tight n no cracks or holes or anything, now with the actuator replaced the car turns on for a few then stalls out, it also doesn't rev over 3 or 4k rpm when I put on wot, its drivable but it doesn't go past 3-5rpm, if I try n creep the throttle open itll slowly climb in rpm but then studder again, when I unplugged the maff it turned on and all but once it reached 3 or 4k rpm it sounded like a 2 step and wouldn't go any higher, does this sound like a bad maf still? also it does the same in neutral now

[OutlawLui]

maybe you can try a KAE maf

[JayJay240sx]

ok so heres an update to my problem, i changed my spark plugs and gapped then, theyre bkr7e, i have a new actuator, checked my vacuum lines, and installed a new tps, i havent adjusted it quite yet so ill do that next, however before the actuator my car was running and idling fine minus the ever present bogging in lower rpms when wot, now however after i installed the actuator the problem has gotten worse, the car doesnt wanna stay on for long and boggs n dies down if i go wot, when in gear driving and in neutral, if i just open the throttle a little and let the rpms highten slower itll get up there in rpms better without dying down, i unplugged the, maf and tried starting and it didnt start, i put in the maf and it started but the problem was still there, i also already tried cleaning the maf with maf cleaner, any input would be greatly appreciated

[ultimateirving]

So didnt you just say the TPS isnt adjusted right? start there and then report back. also clear all codes and make sure you follow the proper procedure on setting the tps

[JayJay240sx]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

So didnt you just say the TPS isnt adjusted right? start there and then report back. also clear all codes and make sure you follow the proper procedure on setting the tps

true, the only reason im doubting it is because before I replaced the actuator the tps really wasn't giving me problems but maybe it could still be that, either way ill give it a go while im installing my boost gauges today and ill report back, thanks again for the input I really appreciate any help

[JayJay240sx]

aright so heres the update to my problem, I probed my tps in order to adjust it, I kept the car in the on position without it actually being on and tested it, I had it set to volts dc, and I didn't get anything above .001?? I tried more than 20 times retrying to see if im doing it wrong but I dont think I did, I tested the ground wire and it was fine however the other two wires weren't giving me anything, am I doing something wrong or is this the obvious problem? I put the ground from the multimeter on the battery and on the chassis, and tried in closed and wot throttle and everything in between, I probed the wires correctly and the problem is the same, any thoughts? I also tried in ac although I know that's not it

[2plus4plus0eq6]

sounds a lot like your maf is wrong. get one that is compatiable with your engine. google for a maf. Google will search ebay plus other sites. check the forums and post a wanted ad for a maf.

I bet that will fix your problem