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Old 02-21-2020, 05:59 PM   #1
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s13 WELDINGOCD's White Type-X S13 FULL RESTORATION BUILD! ROTISSERIE INCLUDED!!



I have a You Tube page if your interested and want to support, you can subscribe.
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Hey, so I just want to share my progress with this build....
Originally from Ontario, Canada. I used to own this black 240sx with an sr20det back in 2012. My first 240sx ever and I love 240sx ever since. It's still being spotted somewhere in Mississauga. Some kid has it.







So due to certain reasons, I sold the car in 2012, left my dream job as a autobody prepper for Acura body shop and moved to Alberta, Canada to chase that oil and gas money. Ended up getting my foot in the door for welding. Here's some welds.






Since I haven't owned a 240sx for some time, had some extra coins to get another one haha. IN 2015, Picked this up for $5000 cdn at the time, it had no rust from what I can see, so I paid the extra money for it. It was bone stock except for some OLD School NISMO NEW-8 Rims. They were made by Enkei. There wasn't much information on these rims.



Bought some HSD Coilovers and SPL Hicas delete from Varun Contractor @ VHC Performance.
Sparco Steering wheel set up from my homie Tom at Nextmod.





Saw some kid parting out some OEM TYPE-X exterior parts, SO I bought it asap.



Bought the full type-x tail lights as prices for them been going up every year.





In 2019 I was able to buy a house with a decent size garage and first thing I did put up the dry walls and an outlet that will be used by my welder. Immediately right after I built a car rotisserie with the welding and fabricating skills that I have acquired. I have a very long and boring video step by step on how to build one if your interested.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BK60xAhftEI&t=424s

I put the car on the rotisserie and started removing about 90% of the undercoating to see what was up.


Upon inspection, there wasn't really much rotten metal except for the common spot, driver side frame rail. I ended up cutting the side that was bulging and on the inside was just surface rust so I wire wheel the surface rust off, then treated it in Eastwood Fast Etch acid, after I neutralized and clean it with Eastwood paint prep. Then I applied Eastwood platinum rust encapsulator on the inside. Applied some Eastwood weld thru primer and welded the two plates back in. Later on when I'm done welding everything, all frame rails and rocker panels will be getting treated in Eastwood internal frame coating. I don't wanna sound like I'm a promoter for Eastwood products but apparently this shit works good.








So I plan on going with the old 2jz-gte, and I was told that it would help to move the radiator forward. After some googling, I went for it. I added some metal to the top rad support so later on I can put some foam there for my radiator to rest on. The bottom will get two more triangle pieces to strengthen the lower rad support.





I wanted to put some tubs in the front, never done it before, after some helpful threads on Zilvia, I went ahead and did it. I think I fucked up because I should of angled the tubs outwards to get some extra space inside the engine bay. The tubs width that I went with are 13" wide. Also I didn't want to put those plates on the outsides like how people usually do em, I went with the painful trimming until I could get it to line up perfectly with the OEM panels.










Let me tell yah, the term 240 crackhead is the real deal. My wallet says no, but my mind says yes!
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Old 02-23-2020, 02:42 AM   #2
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Damn... So many of your photos are not working.
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Old 02-23-2020, 10:13 AM   #3
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s13

Sorry, but for whatever reason, the bottom bunch of photos are not showing.

I put the car on the rotisserie and started removing about 90% of the undercoating to see what was up.


Upon inspection, there wasn't really much rotten metal except for the common spot, driver side frame rail. I ended up cutting the side that was bulging and on the inside was just surface rust so I wire wheel the surface rust off, then treated it in Eastwood Fast Etch acid, after I neutralized and clean it with Eastwood paint prep. Then I applied Eastwood platinum rust encapsulator on the inside. Applied some Eastwood weld thru primer and welded the two plates back in. Later on when I'm done welding everything, all frame rails and rocker panels will be getting treated in Eastwood internal frame coating. I don't wanna sound like I'm a promoter for Eastwood products but apparently this shit works good.













So I plan on going with the old 2jz-gte, and I was told that it would help to move the radiator forward. After some googling, I went for it. I added some metal to the top rad support so later on I can put some foam there for my radiator to rest on. The bottom will get two more triangle pieces to strengthen the lower rad support.





I wanted to put some tubs in the front, never done it before, after some helpful threads on Zilvia, I went ahead and did it. I think I fucked up because I should of angled the tubs outwards to get some extra space inside the engine bay. The tubs width that I went with are 13" wide. Also I didn't want to put those plates on the outsides like how people usually do em, I went with the painful trimming until I could get it to line up perfectly with the OEM panels.









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Old 02-26-2020, 09:21 AM   #4
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Luv how u "boxed" back in the upper core support. Thats doing it properly!
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Old 02-26-2020, 02:36 PM   #5
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This is good. I plan to do the same to mine in a couple of weeks.

What did you use to remove the undercoating?
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Old 03-01-2020, 09:39 PM   #6
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s13

Thank you S14rebuild for the comment, I appreciate all comments!!
As for dluevanos01 "This is good. I plan to do the same to mine in a couple of weeks. What did you use to remove the undercoating? "

I literally used a angle grinder with a wire wheel but it takes forever!! I didn't know there was a better option until I discovered this . You want to be using a Poly Strip Wheel Disc Clean Tool Removal Rust/Paint, Example :


So this particular type of pad, they come in different style for like angle grinders, or 2-3" pads for die grinders. It's a bit more expensive but they fucking remove that undercoating, paint and rust off so quick, it's not even funny.


Anyhow , I plan on building a grip monster. So I got some Ulterior motive metal fender flares waiting to be put on for some time. After getting the rust repair out of the way, I went ahead and started welding on some Ulterior Motive Fender Flares. Since I was able to remove all the paint around the welding surface, I choose to weld it with Tig because it will allow me to properly have the fusion that I need without excess metal build up which will have to get grinded down. You can totally weld this with a 110V Mig welder but I choose to go with the Tig welder. The Tig welder I have is a Everlast 255 EXT. It has all the fancy option for exotic metal etc for 1/3 the price of a Miller Brand with 5 Years Warranty. At the end of the day, it will require some body filler because this much welding on thin material, it will expand and contract which results in distortion, that the nature of welding. The location of where these fender flares sit, will be the same height as the oem. Here is a quick video of the process.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wsu27dJ7TVE







After poking around, I noticed some surface rust on the passenger side rear wheel well. It was around where two panels meet. I noticed that a lot of rust starts where two panels meet, or where there is some old ass crusty 27 Years old seam sealer, or frame rails that been getting rubbed up on speed bumps. Anyhow, I found that the best way to deal with this rust that was on the passenger rear wheel well, was to cut where that black line is and drill out all the spot welds. That way I can go in there, remove all the rust , sand blast the pieces that I was able to take out, then treat all rusted area and the pieces that I took out with Eastwood Fast etch, then prime it with Eastwood weld thru primer. Weld it back into the original spot and then later on coat it with Eastwood Platinum Rust Encapsulator. At this stage in the project, no rust can escape. I'm the RUST HUNTER Also, there was a opening here, not exactly sure what used to be here but it was letting water into that area, so I just cut that piece out and welded a plate here.

























I appreciate that fellow 240sx members are viewing this thread. I learn a lot from other people who share their experience and I want to contribute my experience and whatever knowledge I have whether it's right or wrong. Let me know if I'm doing something wrong so I can fix it! Thank you.
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Old 03-02-2020, 08:05 AM   #7
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Beautiful work on those fenders. Great build so far, keep it up, and thanks for sharing.
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Old 03-02-2020, 08:46 AM   #8
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nice wheels. GLWS
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Old 03-03-2020, 10:51 PM   #9
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Thought I had already suscribed to this build.
Great progress so far man! Excited to see where this goes!
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Old 03-06-2020, 02:09 AM   #10
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I got my 33 on a rotisserie right now, its super exciting because you know when its done, the chassis will be better than anything Nissan ever sold. Good luck to you, I will be watching!
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Old 03-09-2020, 07:10 PM   #11
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Hey, Thanks for the replies.

So after a few more surface rust repairs, I got a chance to work on the rear quarter panels. I never modify any rear quarter panels before for over fenders or fender flares. Anyhow, did some research and then I did mine.
Also mocked up some 295 tires to see how she would fit behind these ulterior motive fender flares.









I seen videos where guys would just hack up their rear quarter panels, tacked the pie cuts and then just slap a bunch of silicon on it to "seal" it.
I guess that would work if it's a drift missile. I have seen where guys have done that and sometime later on, the silicon just droops down and is no longer sticking to that area properly. I wanted my car to last for a long time, hopefully still good long after I pass away one day.

Here is a detail video on how I pie cut my rear quarter panels and tacked it on, FULLY welded out so it's sealed up so no debris or moisture can get in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV3e5WtHL7A

And here is a short video on me welding the ulterior motive fender flares on and how I went to grind the welds down for a smooth surface. Of course, it will get some body filler so I can achieve that smooth curve. Thin metal will always distort especially when there is a lot of heat being put into it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0v6_OoxC1Y
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Old 03-09-2020, 10:49 PM   #12
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Really nice work!! Enjoy seeing this moving along
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Old 03-12-2020, 08:40 PM   #13
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Loving the build process! Thanks for taking the time to share this.
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Old 03-30-2020, 06:19 PM   #14
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Hey, sorry haven't been posting much. Been busy with work and I usually only work on the car during the weekend. Pretty much just been removing away the remaining paint and undercoating under the car so that way I can stitch it. This isn't exactly an exciting job at all. I found that the best way for me to remove this was use a wire wheel to remove the rubbery undercoating then come back and remove the remaining paint with the paint stripper pad.
You could go in there with a paint stripper pad only for the rubbery undercoating and paint but it wears the paint stripper pads down quick which is expensive while the wire wheel last longer for removing the undercoating.



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Old 03-31-2020, 08:08 AM   #15
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FUCK. THAT. PROJECT.

I commend your efforts, and tip my hat to you.
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Old 03-31-2020, 10:55 AM   #16
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Love the effort. Gonna send the rotisserie link to a buddy of mine, this may come in handy for us in the future!
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Old 04-20-2020, 11:56 PM   #17
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Finally got to lay down white epoxy primer. I decided I'm going to use the WHITE Upol Raptor Bed Liner on the underbody later.

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Old 04-21-2020, 12:29 AM   #18
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Oh this has been a life long goal of mine for a while. Full chassis rotisserie restorations get me excited. Great work!
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Old 04-21-2020, 07:23 PM   #19
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Loving the work put in. I want do this one day with my s13 and after doing a firewall replacement on my dads 73' spitfire tub I can jut feel how much easier everything is with that rotisserie.
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Old 04-23-2020, 07:50 PM   #20
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Respect the commitment, boss. That's a lot of work and effort. Nice to see it done right
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Old 04-28-2020, 10:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koukis13 View Post
As for dluevanos01 "This is good. I plan to do the same to mine in a couple of weeks. What did you use to remove the undercoating? "

I literally used a angle grinder with a wire wheel but it takes forever!! I didn't know there was a better option until I discovered this . You want to be using a Poly Strip Wheel Disc Clean Tool Removal Rust/Paint, Example :
.
I think @Wooster on IG used diesel to remove it I am planning on giving it a try and see.

Quote:
Originally Posted by koukis13 View Post
Finally got to lay down white epoxy primer. I decided I'm going to use the WHITE Upol Raptor Bed Liner on the underbody later.
Same thing I plan to use if I don't have the underside painted! This is going to be good!
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Old 04-29-2020, 01:00 PM   #22
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The build looks amazing. That's some clean fabrication work too.
What model and width are the UM flares?
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Old 05-06-2020, 09:03 AM   #23
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Subscribed. Great work btw. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your progress.
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Old 05-17-2020, 08:47 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixxerbob View Post
The build looks amazing. That's some clean fabrication work too.
What model and width are the UM flares?
The front were the sv2 1.5" fender flares. The Rear were custom specs to my liking.

I appreciate the comments guys. Thanks!

I ordered some SPL Parts from Varun Contractor who owns VHC Performance. He is base out of Ontario. Been my supplier for parts since day one which is like since 2012. Customer service on point and even during this corona virus pandemic, he got the rest of my SPL parts flown to me overnight. The quality of these parts are hands down the best. Apparently the part's price went up sometime after I ordered it. Like $1000 Canadian.



I also got my wheels which are Ray's Gram Lights 57CR with the special Nismo Center Caps. These center caps are originally for the Nismo Gram Lights 57CR edition which I didn't go with at the time because I didn't want to wait for it.







I've been working on the engine bay. Light skim of evercoat body filler where the wheel tubs are, front struts and also where I deleted the holes for the AC .






Then the next day, I laid down some DTM White Epoxy Primer.




I will be applying some white seam sealer all around, followed by Toyota Super White Base coat and clear coat. You will see no flaws.... Hopefully LOL!
Here's another long and boring video of me laying down some epoxy primer... lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2YW72MdnHU
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Old 05-19-2020, 07:01 PM   #25
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I don't know how I missed this thread?!
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Old 05-19-2020, 07:31 PM   #26
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Engine bay looking nice and tidy! Gonna feel nice laying down some fresh Super White
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Old 05-20-2020, 07:40 AM   #27
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this is titties
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Old 05-21-2020, 08:05 AM   #28
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Love builds like this!
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Old 05-29-2020, 08:58 AM   #29
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Wow, awesome work, subbed
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Old 07-04-2020, 02:56 PM   #30
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Wow, awesome work man! Major respect for a full build!
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