E85 thread

[OBEEWON]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Think about what you are asking. What is E85? What is gasoline? What is water?

You can think of these as different solvents. Water has its own properties; gasoline has different properties.

If the properties of the solvent are such that, it will interact with whatever it's electron cloud can establish any kind of change. And that can be said for all matter, which is why it is silly to ask. Its kind of like being told that breathing might mutate the dna in my cells. Inside the cells are mechanisms, enzymes and proteins, that prevent oxygen from causing so much trouble. But not always to the same degree in every cell, from person to person. So the real question is, does my fuel system (cell) have the right equipment (enzymes/proteins) to protect itself from the solvent interactions (oxygen). Not every cell has all the right equipment. Some cells have some of the equipment. etc...

extra points for the irony behind my example with respect to the electron donor / acceptor.

What in the what?

[Sforteen]

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

What in the what?

Nobody knows what that guys posts.. it's all retard..

[DJ 21o3]

Originally Posted by Sforteen

Nobody knows what that guys posts.. it's all tryhard..

Fixed.

Simply put, not everything is E85 compatible. Buy the right pump, injectors, and lines and you shouldn't have any issues.

[KAT-PWR]

Originally Posted by Sforteen

Nobody knows what that guys posts.. it's all retard..

Although he's a bit eccentric from what I can gather he does contribute vastly to this forum and is often correct.
If you had, and I'm not speaking in regards to just this post, a basic entry level understanding of chemistry you may, MAY, actually be able to take away from some of the useful information Talon posts.

[IIIXziuR]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Although he's a bit eccentric from what I can gather he does contribute vastly to this forum and is often correct.
If you had, and I'm not speaking in regards to just this post, a basic entry level understanding of chemistry you may, MAY, actually be able to take away from some of the useful information Talon posts.

bruhhhhhhhhh

[nolandavid]

So anyone know off hand how long e85 can set in a s14 oem gas tank?

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by nolandavid

So anyone know off hand how long e85 can set in a s14 oem gas tank?

Mine a been sitting for about a month. I just crank it over to start it and let it idle. But I've read people having no problems even after 6 months

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by nolandavid

So anyone know off hand how long e85 can set in a s14 oem gas tank?

E85 is basically 180 proof vodka, mixed with a little gasoline. You can make it the same way you make something you would drink (well, some people )

http://running_on_alcohol.tripod.com/id1.html

So the real question is, if you dumped 13~gallons of 180proof moonshine into your tank, how long do you think it would sit before you wouldn't want to drink it anymore? Assuming the tank is clean, and nothing in the tank will dissolve or interact with it, it will ultimately depend on whether the tank is air tight or not. Because a tank that isn't air tight will constantly have air entering and leaving, which will always contaminate your drink. Is your gas tank air tight?

[Tom N]

If you are going to let E85 set for a period of time in your tank then make sure it's full. If the tank is half full you will get water contamination.

Personally I would just drain it and put regulas gas in it if the car was sitting.

[tristan89]

what are you guys getting for MPG, I'm getting around 12 for in town driving, does that seem right or low?

[KAT-PWR]

Originally Posted by tristan89

what are you guys getting for MPG, I'm getting around 12 for in town driving, does that seem right or low?

Well I've never used ethanol and know very little about it. But I'd imagine if you were getting around 18 in town and switched to e85 needing 30% more fuel you'd average around 12mpg.
I'm curious and would like someone more versed to chime in.

[tristan89]

before i tuned it for E85 ( also had smaller turbo and injectors and other things) i got 28-31 MPG on highway, this is on a sr blacktop

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by tristan89

before i tuned it for E85 ( also had smaller turbo and injectors and other things) i got 28-31 MPG on highway, this is on a sr blacktop

I have two tunes, one for 91 one for e85. I get a tank average of 22mpg on 91, and about 17mpg on e85. Verified over many trips by resetting odometer and filling tank to the brim. I do this every trip and always record mileage.

[tristan89]

That's how I do it also, what do you get for MPG in town?

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by tristan89

That's how I do it also, what do you get for MPG in town?

No way to tell. My driving around town consists of lots of freeways and city streets. I rely on average mpg instead of inflated hwy mpg and deflated city mpg

[tristan89]

What heat range of plugs are you guys using, I've heard 7 aren't great but 6 are, I'm just confused because I've heard with more boost and bigger turbos to go cold but with E85 to go hotter, I have 8s and it misfires and won't idle when it's not warm (I have no thermostat so I'm putting one in before I change plus to see if this helps)

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by tristan89

What heat range of plugs are you guys using, I've heard 7 aren't great but 6 are, I'm just confused because I've heard with more boost and bigger turbos to go cold but with E85 to go hotter, I have 8s and it misfires and won't idle when it's not warm (I have no thermostat so I'm putting one in before I change plus to see if this helps)

I used 9 heat range iirc, might be 8s but I'm in az and your in Oregon. So my cold starts are around 45-50* ambient temperature in the winter

[Tom N]

Hard to advise a heat range with knowing the power the car is making and if it uses nitrous.

[tristan89]

Like this morning it was 10 degrees I drained my battery trying to start my car, I charged it and finally go it started but it sputtered and misfired/backfired (not sure the sound difference really) for half my drive to school and dies when I braked to hard, my drive to school is like 4-5 miles

[tristan89]

I would say I'm making mid 300's for power, but that's just a guess based on dyno runs I've seen with same tune and turbo and other similar parts

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by tristan89

I would say I'm making mid 300's for power, but that's just a guess based on dyno runs I've seen with same tune and turbo and other similar parts

You don't need any colder than a 7.
Colder the plug easier it will foul out.

[Dboyizmlg]

Originally Posted by tristan89

Like this morning it was 10 degrees I drained my battery trying to start my car, I charged it and finally go it started but it sputtered and misfired/backfired (not sure the sound difference really) for half my drive to school and dies when I braked to hard, my drive to school is like 4-5 miles

Sounds like you aren't letting the car warm up.

Let it warm up for a few minutes then drive off, is your thermostat stuck open? Do you have one installed?

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by tristan89

Like this morning it was 10 degrees I drained my battery trying to start my car, I charged it and finally go it started but it sputtered and misfired/backfired (not sure the sound difference really) for half my drive to school and dies when I braked to hard, my drive to school is like 4-5 miles

Before you try to start it, open a vacuum line and pour in a little gasoline, Give it a minute to vaporize within the engine.

The "dies when I brake hard" is the sudden drop in rpm due to not enough airflow and too much fuel. You must have a maf sensor or a really poor off-throttle tune.
The fix is to the move the maf away from the turbo (if applicable) and recirculate your bypass (if applicable). If you have either sensor, you also could adjust your fuel-cut rpm and the high vacuum cells to prevent engine flooding when you lift from the throttle. The map will benefit the most from the high vacuum cell modification, where the maf will not hit those cells if it is too close to the turbo during a sudden throttle lift.

Alternatively, you could raise the idle by adjustment IACV screw. the reason this is not a real fix is because it is like a band-aid, it will cost you more fuel to have a higher idle all the time (but will prevent the engine from flooding as easily when you lift from the throttle)

[tristan89]

I don't have a thermostat I'm waiting for it to come in the mail, I have a manual boost controller I need to install and then I will up the boost to around 12-14, is that safe for stock head gasket? Also is that fine for plugs that are 7 or should I keep with the 8s since I'm going to up the boost?

[Tom N]

You don't need a 8 heat range with that little bit of boost.

[Def]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Before you try to start it, open a vacuum line and pour in a little gasoline, Give it a minute to vaporize within the engine.

The "dies when I brake hard" is the sudden drop in rpm due to not enough airflow and too much fuel. You must have a maf sensor or a really poor off-throttle tune.
The fix is to the move the maf away from the turbo (if applicable) and recirculate your bypass (if applicable). If you have either sensor, you also could adjust your fuel-cut rpm and the high vacuum cells to prevent engine flooding when you lift from the throttle. The map will benefit the most from the high vacuum cell modification, where the maf will not hit those cells if it is too close to the turbo during a sudden throttle lift.

Alternatively, you could raise the idle by adjustment IACV screw. the reason this is not a real fix is because it is like a band-aid, it will cost you more fuel to have a higher idle all the time (but will prevent the engine from flooding as easily when you lift from the throttle)

The IACV screw needs to be adjusted to keep the IACV duty cycle fairly low during normal idle. When you add cams, the manifold vacuum is reduced, so you need much more effective area to flow enough idle air for the engine. So you definitely want to open up the IACV bleed screw a decent amount when you install cams. Otherwise the engine will stall out due to the high duty cycle it has to run just to get the car to idle.

I don't know why everybody on this forum thinks you should never mess with the screw, even if you change the intake manifold pressure differential by a solid 30-40% and do a bunch of mods to the engine.

[frizzle]

How are you guys connecting the braided lines to the S14 fuel hat on the S14 OEM gas tank.

[Mannykiller]

I love E85!!! Rotary guy here. Using it on my Drift track car!

[Dboyizmlg]

Originally Posted by tristan89

I don't have a thermostat I'm waiting for it to come in the mail, I have a manual boost controller I need to install and then I will up the boost to around 12-14, is that safe for stock head gasket? Also is that fine for plugs that are 7 or should I keep with the 8s since I'm going to up the boost?

I have HR 7 spark plugs on my motor, 295whp @19psi.
No issues what so ever, besides the clutch starting to slip now.

[Sforteen]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Although he's a bit eccentric from what I can gather he does contribute vastly to this forum and is often correct.
If you had, and I'm not speaking in regards to just this post, a basic entry level understanding of chemistry you may, MAY, actually be able to take away from some of the useful information Talon posts.

I dont need to learn chemistry, at the end of the day the engine wants what it wants, a dyno and your eyes can and some basic knowledge can get you thru it Nobody cares what Bill Ny over there has to say about it..