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Old 11-20-2013, 10:38 AM   #15421
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So, dumb question. My '95 S14's driver mirror has fallen off the track. It seems one of the studs(?) that hold the window to the regulator assembly has sheared off in the window itself. Anyone had this problem? If so, do I need to replace the entire window? If not, anyone know what bolt size I need?

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Old 11-20-2013, 07:00 PM   #15422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
Stock S14 spoiler is 54". That help?
no but thanks for trying lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
I think 66" for s13.
hmm, cool. or how would we do so to measure it correctly?
Checking if my 64" wing is wider, looks like it is.. but at the same time it doesnt....
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:11 PM   #15423
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anyone use pbm rucas? how are they?
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:39 AM   #15424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hOngsterr View Post
no but thanks for trying lol



hmm, cool. or how would we do so to measure it correctly?
Checking if my 64" wing is wider, looks like it is.. but at the same time it doesnt....
S14 is 68" wide, S13 is 67" wide. These are direct from the dimensional specs for mechanical data for each body type. Unless you can stretch that wing, it is not wider than the car. It is wider than the top of the car, but it is not wider than the body at it's widest point, the rear quarter panel
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:30 PM   #15425
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another z32 brake question I KNOW :/

question is : for those of you who have separated the front calipers how much torque did you apply to the bolts that hold the caliper together ?


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Old 11-21-2013, 04:35 PM   #15426
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How low of an offset and how wide of a wheel can I have on an S13 without having to roll or pull the fenders and quarter panels?
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:46 PM   #15427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Nation S13 View Post
another z32 brake question I KNOW :/

question is : for those of you who have separated the front calipers how much torque did you apply to the bolts that hold the caliper together ?


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I have Q45 calipers, and before I actually looked up torque specs, I just followed the torque specs from the 1989 240SX FSM. Then when I looked up the Q45 torque specs for the calipers, they were exactly the same. So I would just base it off the 240SX FSM torque specs - assuming you have access to an FSM. If not, you can easily find the PDF online. Because Nissan.
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:21 PM   #15428
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s14

guys to tuck the fuse box back into the dash,you just have to cut the wires and connect em back once the fuse box its inside right? dumb question but i need a straight foward answer
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:06 PM   #15429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
S14 is 68" wide, S13 is 67" wide. These are direct from the dimensional specs for mechanical data for each body type. Unless you can stretch that wing, it is not wider than the car. It is wider than the top of the car, but it is not wider than the body at it's widest point, the rear quarter panel
Actually 66.5"
remeasured my wing, its 68" so it is wider.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Reece View Post
How low of an offset and how wide of a wheel can I have on an S13 without having to roll or pull the fenders and quarter panels?
depends on wheel diameter/tire you want to run.
I say 215/40/17or18 on a 17or18 x 9.5 +12 is perfect. Hatch doe, idk if coupe is different.

Quote:
Originally Posted by angrychild1997 View Post
guys to tuck the fuse box back into the dash,you just have to cut the wires and connect em back once the fuse box its inside right? dumb question but i need a straight foward answer
yes that's what you have to do, usually they rewire the fuse box into their glove compartment.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:13 PM   #15430
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thanks bro ,any suggestions??? anything i should watch out for?
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:18 PM   #15431
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I have a question, my throttle body has no throttle body stop screw. I just got one and wondering how it should be adjusted, is there a procedure? I believe i read somewhere that you have to disconnect the iacv than adjust it? please let me know. This is for an rb25
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:36 PM   #15432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007 View Post
I have Q45 calipers, and before I actually looked up torque specs, I just followed the torque specs from the 1989 240SX FSM. Then when I looked up the Q45 torque specs for the calipers, they were exactly the same. So I would just base it off the 240SX FSM torque specs - assuming you have access to an FSM. If not, you can easily find the PDF online. Because Nissan.
I remember reading on the net ( but I could be wrong ) that the calipers were never meant to be separated ( bc the OEM caliper rebuild kit never came with the 4 small o-rings ) but I know that I've seen numerous calipers broken on half to be custom powder coated .. I just don't want these things falling apart on me lol


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Old 11-21-2013, 10:13 PM   #15433
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Anyone used the VIS copy of the DRFT bumper for S13 pop-ups? I'm looking for how it fits out of the box. I know their new stuff fits well...
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:55 AM   #15434
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Anyone know of a inner tie rod removal tool that works with the 240sx?

I've tried two different auto shops that had the tube style tool and they weren't large enough.

The inner tie rods are frozen on good and won't come off with adjustable wrenches.
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:59 AM   #15435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_240 View Post
Anyone know of a inner tie rod removal tool that works with the 240sx?

I've tried two different auto shops that had the tube style tool and they weren't large enough.

The inner tie rods are frozen on good and won't come off with adjustable wrenches.
They won't come off with adjustable wrenches? Holy crap. I don't think that tube is going to be any help then . I've had to heat the steering rack shaft up before.

The tube should come with a bunch of different sized ends to use, sometimes you'll have to buy an extra pack to get all the sizes, so that might be the problem.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:44 AM   #15436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrychild1997 View Post
thanks bro ,any suggestions??? anything i should watch out for?
just make sure all the colors match up and properly wired/soldered.



so school me on S15 HLSD's

you need the differential and output shafts and someone told me about having to shim it also in a s13 pumpkin. But I researched that you dont/can't shim an s15 helical... What do i need for it to work
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:55 AM   #15437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hOngsterr View Post

you need the differential and output shafts and someone told me about having to shim it also in a s13 pumpkin. But I researched that you dont/can't shim an s15 helical... What do i need for it to work
I think they meant shim the diff so the ring gear interfaces with the pinion gear properly. Just something you do with every diff when setting it up properly, definitely not the same as shimming a VLSD. The shims go between the side bearing races and the diff housing.
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:13 AM   #15438
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I am running a base map from Nismotronic on my KA-T and I want to use an SAFC to prefect my fuel and DEC AIR settings. Now i hear that SAFC II can cause advance in my timing. Is there a way to prevent the timing from being advanced while still controling the DEC AIR settings. Sorry if i sound like a fucking idiot because I dont know much about this whole thing.
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Did you check the potato fuse located in the front right corner of your gas tank?
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No i haven't. To be honest i didnt know there was a fuse there. Thats not a fuse for the fuel pump is it?
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:08 PM   #15439
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Catch can tubing?

Alright so i've been trying out different things for a week and im tired of throwing money away. I've relocated my catch can to the intake side on my S13 SR to help route the lines away from the heat. And the hoses are still getting melted! I've looked into heat wraps and things like that but I thought i'd ask what most people do for this tubing that will actually hold up to exhaust manifold radiant heat.

Looking at
- Clear/Braided tubing
- Blue Goodyear Hi-Miler tubing
- plain black heater hose
- stainless AN hoses
- bracketed hard lines?

Pics aren't enough anymore I need tips on what works!

Thanks.
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:20 AM   #15440
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When i close my doors the windows shake.
s13 hatch.
can i tighten some screws to fix it?
i haven't taken the panel off to check.
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:52 AM   #15441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscherf92 View Post
Alright so i've been trying out different things for a week and im tired of throwing money away. I've relocated my catch can to the intake side on my S13 SR to help route the lines away from the heat. And the hoses are still getting melted! I've looked into heat wraps and things like that but I thought i'd ask what most people do for this tubing that will actually hold up to exhaust manifold radiant heat.

Looking at
- Clear/Braided tubing
- Blue Goodyear Hi-Miler tubing
- plain black heater hose
- stainless AN hoses
- bracketed hard lines?

Pics aren't enough anymore I need tips on what works!

Thanks.
When building endurance race engines or putting them in cars we used flame proof matting between the lines and manifolds. The lines we built were made from Earle's AN kits using 250* braided line(PITA to work with, looks great though when done right). Using NOMEX line covers works for all areas under hood except directly next to the headers/Turbo manifolds as seen here

Nomex - Fireproof Braided Sleeving

If you take an old license plate, wrap it with header wrap, this makes a great fabbed heat shield that will reflect up to 1800* or the temps your headers/turbo manifolds will reach, or you can go to Jeg's and get this:

JEGS Stainless/Ceramic Heat Shield Panel - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

If you use the ceramic shield, AND nomex or other wrap/tubing protection, you should be ok

You asked for advice on what works. Yes it does make you cry a bit when you pay for it, but you only cry once and you do not buy twice.
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Old 11-23-2013, 01:42 PM   #15442
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Is there a difference between a oil temp sensor and a water temp sensor? Basically, can I run a oil temp gauge as a water temp gauge?
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:32 PM   #15443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
They won't come off with adjustable wrenches? Holy crap. I don't think that tube is going to be any help then . I've had to heat the steering rack shaft up before.

The tube should come with a bunch of different sized ends to use, sometimes you'll have to buy an extra pack to get all the sizes, so that might be the problem.
It's that damn red strength loctite... I found a tie rod tool that works on the stock tie rods at O'Reilly... ended up using a dremel to open one of the adapters a little for the larger PBM inners I was installing. Works great now... hardly any effort needed compared to the adjustable wrench method with the car on jack stands.
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:24 PM   #15444
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Quote:
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Is there a difference between a oil temp sensor and a water temp sensor? Basically, can I run a oil temp gauge as a water temp gauge?
They're different. Oil and transmission sensors are interchangeable though.
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Old 11-23-2013, 08:08 PM   #15445
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Has anyone wired a bee*r into a single cam? I have tried every which way, follow a couple different diagrams using pin 31 and 22 as well as pin 3 and 31, everything in between, And I have had no luck. No light and no cutoff, nothing. Anyone else have this problem? Yes I've searched and exhausted every which way possible. Am I missing something or is this thing a dud. Help is gratefully appreciated...
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Old 11-23-2013, 10:19 PM   #15446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
When building endurance race engines or putting them in cars we used flame proof matting between the lines and manifolds. The lines we built were made from Earle's AN kits using 250* braided line(PITA to work with, looks great though when done right). Using NOMEX line covers works for all areas under hood except directly next to the headers/Turbo manifolds as seen here

Nomex - Fireproof Braided Sleeving

If you take an old license plate, wrap it with header wrap, this makes a great fabbed heat shield that will reflect up to 1800* or the temps your headers/turbo manifolds will reach, or you can go to Jeg's and get this:

JEGS Stainless/Ceramic Heat Shield Panel - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

If you use the ceramic shield, AND nomex or other wrap/tubing protection, you should be ok

You asked for advice on what works. Yes it does make you cry a bit when you pay for it, but you only cry once and you do not buy twice.
Thanks that's great info and the links really helped!
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:59 AM   #15447
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how do you add those signatures on the bottom of your comments. the ones below the _____________
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Old 11-24-2013, 02:05 AM   #15448
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how do you add those signatures on the bottom of your comments. the ones below the _____________
1. Click "User CP" (stands for User Control Panel) at the top of the page
2. On the left side of the page under Settings & Options, click "Edit Signature"

You can choose to use a picture or text as your signature.
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:00 AM   #15449
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Quote:
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1. Click "User CP" (stands for User Control Panel) at the top of the page
2. On the left side of the page under Settings & Options, click "Edit Signature"

You can choose to use a picture or text as your signature.
thank you very much
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:26 AM   #15450
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What kind of (semi-flexible) hose can I use to tuck the brake booster vacuum hose (behind the motor/under the lip where the firewall meets the cowl) that won't collapse on itself?

Picture for reference...


The OEM hose seems to be pre formed (for stock location of course) and has a plastic tube inside the straight section(s). Where as the bent sections probably don't have that plastic piece that I can see and are pretty stiff.

I have looked around and thought of SS braided line (in black of course), which is cool for me and not worried about price. but I normally see it for pressure lines (i.e.-> coolant/fuel) I thought there might be another kind of hose that can handle vacuum for the brake booster without collapsing..
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