SR20DET idle woes

[hdhype]

So I just recently completed my engine swap to the redtop. It was pretty much fine except I was in the midst of troubleshooting boost flutter. This morning I took it for a test drive and the IC pipe coming out of the turbo popped off while going from 2nd to 3rd. (I didn't know at the time this is what had happened) But I was just a block away from my garage, so I idled back. Once it was in neutral the car died.

Since then I have

1. Tightened the piping back down.
2. Attempted to move the battery to the trunk(Attempted to crank the car twice), but it looks like the wire gauge was too small so I moved it back.
3. Corrected some of the ghetto wiring I had going to my TPS.
4. Finally put the belt on for my power steering.

I attempt to start the car again, and it starts up just fine, real quick, like as if it was a new car.
Idles at about 1.0-1.5 for about... 2-5 seconds
Then starts to misfire and ends up dead after about another 5-10 seconds.
When I push the throttle it will rev up, but it's also flaky.

I have the crankcase hose going into the pipe before the turbo, but the BOV goes into Atmosphere.

I tried disconnecting the MAF, and it's the same result except I can't rev up the engine. I tried to harden up the BOV, and it's the same thing.

I'm going to go double check my TPS wiring job after I post this.

[ShadowMan]

Check for more IC piping leaks. If one coupler popped off, there are probably more that are about to pop as well. Check the spark plugs as well, might have fouled them with that super rich environment.

[hdhype]

ShadowMan,

I would like to thank you for your reply.




Turns out this was the culprit.
I took a wire-brush to all 4 of them and my car idled like a champ.

I do have one question though. While WOT (Just a few seconds ago)I noticed that my boost was getting up to 8-9 psi with no controller attached, is this normal?
I know it says stock that it gets to 7. But maybe there is something I am missing?

Edit: If it makes any difference I have a 3 inch pipe all the way back. Honeycomb-style airfilter, and a Big-ass blitz FMIC.

[godsmack]

Do you have some kind of restrictor in the vacuum line going to your actuator?

[hdhype]

Originally Posted by godsmack

Do you have some kind of restrictor in the vacuum line going to your actuator?

Right now my actuator is T'd off a vacuum line with the BOV.
Other than that, nothing is in between the actuator.
(I recently heard that you only need a boost line going to the actuator.)
(Also I'm an idiot and put my boost gauge to measure boost only, but I don't have the hose resources to switch them right now.)

Edit: the Turbo is a T-25 off of a PS-13
Edit 2: I guess it doesn't matter as long as it's within it's safe range.... But it does do a little bit of fluttering between 7-9.
I'm going to throw another questing in the mix.
When I shift, is the BOV suppose to sputter? or is it suppose to be a nice steady shhhppppfffff?

[godsmack]

Are you sure that the BOV and actuator aren't on a boost only source also? Some BOV's will flutter but usually the flutter sound is going to be compressor surge. If it's compressor surge then you are probable on a boost only source for them 2 since the BOV opens on vacuum. What kind of blow off valve do you have?

[codyace]

8-9 isn't anything to worry about. It'll creep up a little and probably fall down to 7 at redline. No major issue.

[ShadowMan]

Originally Posted by hdhype

ShadowMan,

I would like to thank you for your reply.

You're welcome. Glad it was a simple fix.