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Old 02-25-2010, 12:46 AM   #31
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sorry for all the noob question, but do you do this so you can go lower?
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:09 AM   #32
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You do this so you can have more wheel clearance at full lock with really wide wheels/tires.
(Full lock means the steering wheel is turned all the way, Im sure one of you would ask)
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Old 02-25-2010, 06:38 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tearlessj View Post
Ok yea lets move on.

Does anyone have tubs with the factory fuse box in place? I would love to get this done to get rid of my rubbing issues, but I don't feel like relocating my harness.



I didn't feel like it either, although I kinda wish I did now. IDK, didn't have the time.

It works but I had to cut the hell out of the box to get it to fit, other than that its fine. I'll redo it when the motors out next winter.

Stephen: I was worried that because I didn't cut the frame above the wheel, as you did, it would rub there again but the tire hasn't touched it yet. Getting rid of those old springs was a good idea I guess.

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Old 02-25-2010, 07:40 AM   #34
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If you guys need pix of an s13 with tubs just look up my threads/posts, I'd post the pix but I'm on my blackberry and in class. I'm surprised so many people have tubs. If anyone doesn't want to relocate their fuse boxes, you can tuck it under the battery tray and make a sealed box for it out of aluminum.
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:53 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterps13 View Post
You do this so you can have more wheel clearance at full lock with really wide wheels/tires.
(Full lock means the steering wheel is turned all the way, Im sure one of you would ask)
full lock is also limited by the frame rails themselves. most tubs are merely for aesthetics. most poeple that run tubs dont even really need them. a really low offset wheel and fenders will do in a lot of cases. when someone asked why my buddy did it. he said, "because i fucking can" hes running an SSR dish wheel like eurolines and viennas but even then probably didnt need it. its an extreme amount of work if their done right. i completely welded his, he even mudded them up and made them smooth. tack welding and seem sealing .... the strut towers are key in structural rigity in the front end. why you would puss out and use seam sealer is beyond me.. dont cheap out and dont get lazy.
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:36 PM   #36
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finished them up last week, thanks for all the responses it really gave me some good ideas

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Old 04-02-2010, 06:28 PM   #37
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Are those summit tubs?
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Old 04-03-2010, 12:15 PM   #38
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yep there summit, but they suck. I just scrapped the use of there locking system for the pinch seam on the skirts and just cut them up and fabbed everything.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:11 AM   #39
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yep there summit, but they suck. I just scrapped the use of there locking system for the pinch seam on the skirts and just cut them up and fabbed everything.

they look good, anymore pics? Specifically from underneath and possibly from the engine bay side?
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:09 PM   #40
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this is probably a dumb question, so humor me.
are you guys using aluminum or steel? summit lists tubs made out of both,
but i assume trailer fenders are aluminum?
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:12 PM   #41
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Quote:
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this is probably a dumb question, so humor me.
are you guys using aluminum or steel? summit lists tubs made out of both,
but i assume trailer fenders are aluminum?
Steel.

The tubs have to be steel so that they can be welded to the chassis. (also steel)
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:35 PM   #42
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^thanks man.
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:30 PM   #43
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imma be heading back to Pasco later this year...last i went i couldnt find anyone that was drifting out there and i couldnt find any good spots...

my cousin took me to a spot out by the hills/mountains but it was pretty wack only good for circles, figure 8's and a sow 2nd gear entrance..
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:25 AM   #44
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gonna drop this here too



legit pre-fabbed beadrolled gt-fabrications tubs. yeah
Now that is how it should be done!
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Old 06-09-2010, 09:46 AM   #45
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Old 06-09-2010, 06:29 PM   #46
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Old 06-10-2010, 02:06 PM   #47
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i just finished my tubs and was wondering where you guys were mounting your coolant reservoirs and fuse boxes??
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:04 AM   #48
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i just finished my tubs and was wondering where you guys were mounting your coolant reservoirs and fuse boxes??
Behind my bumper/fender. In a air tight plexiglass box of course.
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Old 06-11-2010, 02:58 AM   #49
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I'm in the process of installing my tubs....they're a lot of work, and I'm not an expert welder...but I'm really happy with the progress....now if Lincoln would just send me the damn adapter so I can run big spools of wire, I could finish them up. As for the coolant res, prolly best just to fab a new one. I rewired my chassis so I can't comment on the fuse boxes.

I'll post pics once they're all smoothed and prettied up.
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Old 06-11-2010, 02:59 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murda-c View Post
trailer fenders! lol.
Yeah, its so much easier to take something thats already made.
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Old 06-11-2010, 03:14 AM   #51
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Yeah, its so much easier to take something thats already made.
plus Summits are so thin...the trailer fender I got were nice 16 (18 maybe) gauge steel...
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Old 06-11-2010, 03:45 AM   #52
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what tubs are those? thats pretty hot I like it!
The two red cars I'm assuming you're asking about are the Exceed Moat s14 engine bays.
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Old 06-11-2010, 03:51 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tearlessj View Post
Ok yea lets move on.

Does anyone have tubs with the factory fuse box in place? I would love to get this done to get rid of my rubbing issues, but I don't feel like relocating my harness.
Wouldn't recommend it. Take the opportunity to relocate the fusebox inside the cabin, or replace it with a smaller fusebox and separate relay panel. Save weight, space, and you'll lose that huge fucking mess of wiring that goes over the driver's side wheel and under the core support.

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Originally Posted by thefro526 View Post
Steel.

The tubs have to be steel so that they can be welded to the chassis. (also steel)
Yup, common sense.

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Originally Posted by TurboSE View Post
plus Summits are so thin...the trailer fender I got were nice 16 (18 maybe) gauge steel...
16 or 18ga steel is fine. It's the curved shape of the steel that gives it it's strength, not the thickness. I used .030" 4130 steel on mine.

I had the "standard" curved tubs when I was SR (I ran 18x10 +0 with 245/40/18s and rubbed all over, back and front) and made a few sets for other people, but didn't have enough room for the intake tube/filter next to the charge piping because they came so far forward. Decided to do something new with the RB25 setup, came out awesome... one of the most complimented parts of the car.

Started by mounting the wheel/tire, turning to full lock, and giving myself another 10* and 1" of space in front (that's about how much I had on top at full compression). Fab'd a 1/2" sch 40 square tube structure and used thin-wall steel (.030") to fully box it - extremely strong finished product, definitely stronger than the strut tower->firewall section of the frame.



Measure twice, cut once, swear, debate cutting again, use helping hand to nail fitment:


Cardboard template:


Bare metal:



Inside pass wheel well (after some evercoat z-grip, before rubberized undercoat):


Mid painting:


Finished:

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Old 06-11-2010, 08:34 AM   #54
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WOW!!! gsxr that looks amazing.
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Old 06-11-2010, 11:39 AM   #55
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wow that looks really good man....
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:01 PM   #56
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WOW!!! gsxr that looks amazing.
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wow that looks really good man....
Thanks guys. Credit to Impuse Engineering in HB for giving me the idea, they had similar tubs on their fastback, but it wasn't totally boxed.

I'm concentrating my efforts on my LSx FD and tentatively sold the RB25 so the S14 shell is currently for sale! Fully seam welded with tubs in front and Dmax widebody in the back, properly done Cheeeeaaappppppp ~
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Old 06-11-2010, 07:27 PM   #57
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I don't know why, but I love the look of tubbed fenders, aside from their obvious functionality.
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Old 06-14-2010, 08:24 PM   #58
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Im making my tubs right now for my s14, and i cant figure out how to make the skirt (flat metal closest to the hot pipe on the driver side and cold pipe on the passenger) meet up flush with the frame rails. I have the top of the tub sitting in about the same spot on the shock towers as all the other pictures ive seen, but im still coming up about an inch short of frame if i were to run the skirt straight down.. I wouldnt mind this, but there is no flat surface to weld to until you hit the frame. can anyone tell me what they did? my only idea is to angle the skirt toward the inside of the car, but that wont look right at all. any help would be appreciated.
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:05 PM   #59
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Im making my tubs right now for my s14, and i cant figure out how to make the skirt (flat metal closest to the hot pipe on the driver side and cold pipe on the passenger) meet up flush with the frame rails. I have the top of the tub sitting in about the same spot on the shock towers as all the other pictures ive seen, but im still coming up about an inch short of frame if i were to run the skirt straight down.. I wouldnt mind this, but there is no flat surface to weld to until you hit the frame. can anyone tell me what they did? my only idea is to angle the skirt toward the inside of the car, but that wont look right at all. any help would be appreciated.
You probably either need to widen the tub or just angle the skirt. i'm pretty sure most people on here had to angle it out a little to make it fit unless they have wide tubs with ugly corners near the shock tower haha
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:23 PM   #60
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You probably either need to widen the tub or just angle the skirt. i'm pretty sure most people on here had to angle it out a little to make it fit unless they have wide tubs with ugly corners near the shock tower haha
ya I was trying to stay away from the ugly corners up at the shock towers..
I'm waiting on more sheet metal to see what angling it will look like. That'll probably be what ends up happening.
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