Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[ZenkiKid]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

If u look at wiring specialties website they show oprions for 2 diffrent ka harness, 89-90 91-93..hell even diffrent one for convertable
https://www.wiringspecialties.com/s13katrha.html

I would contact them..make sure u ordered the appropriate harness and that you were sent the correct one aswell

I just did and the tech guy said that basically all lower s13 lower harnesses are the same just that they came with extra connectors depending on the application. Oh well its all good.

[imbored205]

Changing my open diff (95 S14) to a HLSD from an S15 and not sure if the bearing cap order is correct. I took them off not knowing they had to go back on a certain way. I marked them P and D for passenger/driver to what I think is correct.


Looking at google images they are seem to have different numbers/letters on the caps so I am not able to match to any image. I also have no idea what the numbers/letters mean. I did see that the driver side always had a O+ overlapping cross hair on the top and the passenger had that symbol on the bottom. The side and orientation I think they are supposed to be in happens to match.


I am fairly certain the one marked P is correctly on the passenger side due to the scuff marks on the top. I cleaned the cap and the other sides do not have evidence of that mark. It also seems to match the mating face correctly. Crosshair symbol bottom.




The driver side one marked D doesnt seem like it is the correct placement on the top because it has a bit of overhang. Crosshair symbol top.



My logic thinks with the white scuff mark location and the crosshair symbol on the bottom, the passenger side is correct. This makes the driver side correct when oriented with the crosshair symbol on top (Assuming the symbols are always top/bottom for driver/passenger sides). I also noticed the text on all images is oriented so you would read from the outer side of the diff.

How do I know for sure without destroying the diff while driving?

EDIT: I figured out they are correct since the scoring marks clearly line up between diff and cap.

[cured13]

what brand are the rear wheels on this car ?

[ZenkiKid]

Originally Posted by cured13

what brand are the rear wheels on this car ?[/IMG]

Kansei Tandem

[Parag0n]

Hi guys,

I'm back again with another really stupid question. I just took my car in to get new tires installed yesterday after finishing the brake job I did previously. When I pulled in the driveway I saw there was fluid leaking. I didn't have time to figure out where it was coming from so I pulled into the garage.

This morning before work I gave it a quick once over and saw that when running, it's spraying out from this hose. I believe this is fuel directly below the fuel filter if I'm not mistaken? I've circled the area in red where it's leaking.

https://imgur.com/a/1SUJHrP

My question is - do both of these hoses lead to the head? I didn't have time to check the routing, so I'm currently looking through diagrams trying to find replacement hoses.

One follow up question - I think I've found the hose number, but does anyone know the actual size of the hose? I may be able to source one for significantly cheaper than buying OEM if I know the sizing.

Thanks

[e1_griego]

You don't need to buy OEM fuel line. 5/16" fuel line is what you need, any auto parts store should carry it. It's like $3/ft.

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

You don't need to buy OEM fuel line. 5/16" fuel line is what you need, any auto parts store should carry it. It's like $3/ft.

Make sure the hose is rated for high pressure fuel

[Parag0n]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Make sure the hose is rated for high pressure fuel

So something like a few feet of this one?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH...nput=fuel+hose

[e1_griego]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Make sure the hose is rated for high pressure fuel

Good point, my local parts store quit carrying the high pressure stuff.

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by Parag0n

So something like a few feet of this one?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH...nput=fuel+hose

That would work perfectly

[Parag0n]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

That would work perfectly

Great! Thanks for your help. Learning daily Will pick this up after work and get to replacing it and see what other issues arise

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Parag0n

So something like a few feet of this one?



https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH...nput=fuel+hose

You need at least SAE30R9 rated fuel injection hose.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 10+ using Tapatalk

[Parag0n]

Originally Posted by mr.nismo.

You need at least SAE30R9 rated fuel injection hose.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 10+ using Tapatalk

Well crap - then this isn't good?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH...nput=nbh+h357a

How long of a line do I need? I'm assuming this goes to the fuel pump?

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Parag0n

Well crap - then this isn't good?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH...nput=nbh+h357a



How long of a line do I need? I'm assuming this goes to the fuel pump?

No that's way overkill lol. That's what I have. And the two hoses from the tank to hard-line, 4ft. From the hard-line to fuel rail depends on how you have everything setup. I'd say at least 6ft to be safe.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 10+ using Tapatalk

[zombiewolf513]

If you have the metal lines underneath youll need about 5 feet for the 2 rear lines connecting to the tank and another 5 for the feed and return at the motor. Theres also about 4 inches of hose inside the tank connecting the fuel pump that tends to be corroded. 10 feet total. Thats enough hose to have a little extra just in case. Do one at a time so you dont cross the lines

[Parag0n]

It's a '92 S13 and I believe everything is stock. For someone who isn't too good with this stuff - this sounds like it's going to be a bit more difficult than I was originally thinking?

I was hoping I may be able to replace the line without lifting up the vehicle but it sounds like I need to get under it now based on your responses, and that the line travels quite a distance to the fuel tank, correct?

For reference - my HF jack stands got recalled so I'm recently out of jack stands

I really appreciate your responses.

[e1_griego]

It's just the engine bay hoses so you can do everything from up top.

[TheRealSy90]

Don't have to get under the car to change the hoses from the hard lines to the engine rail/filter.

[Parag0n]

Thanks guys. Will replace the filter and both lines while I'm at it and see how my luck holds after that. Hopefully no more leaks at any other lines.

[zombiewolf513]

If your fuel lines are cracking in one place you should go ahead and replace them all. You dont need to jack up the car unless its lowered or your a larger person . The rear lines are removed from the top from the inside of the trunk on one end then they connect underneath behind the differential. The front lines are all done from the top.

The line connecting the pump to the bracket is accessed by removing the sender from the top of the tank from inside the trunk.

Theres a vent line that also runs from the tank to a little doohicky (rollover valve i think) about the passenger CV and then to the hardlines (another 3 feet of hose, so 13 feet total if you replace the vent line). Its kind of a pain to reach without long angle pliers to get the hose clamp off the doohicky. The doohicky is on a bracket that can also be unbolted. Then in the front that line run to the evap canister if you have one. Ive always just left it open or put a bolt in it at the front hardline tbh

[Parag0n]

That's super good information to know - thank you. I was looking for fuel line routing diagrams but I couldn't find any so I wasn't sure exactly where the lines were.

I'll replace these two lines right now, and then assuming theres no more leaks - work on replacing the remaining ones as quickly as I possibly can

[zombiewolf513]

no problem. i think my long winded explanation makes it seem like a bigger job than it actually is

[Parag0n]

It's probably just my lack of knowledge honestly. Replacing the brakes / rotors / pads on this thing took me ages. Partly due to my own difficulties, then rust, needing to buy more tools, mistakes - etc. The first one took longer than the 4th one as I learned. YT videos taught me a lot but they don't always match every situation or hiccup.

[zombiewolf513]

Sounds like youre on the right path. Buy some spray cans of penetrating oil and a harbor freight impact wrench for rusty bolt removal. Best tool ever made aside from wratchet wrenches. Just make sure to buy quality jack stands

[Parag0n]

Is there some secret to getting the clamps back on? They're not too terrible when they're easily accessed but the one coming off the hardline (to the filter inlet) I'm struggling with.

[S14rebuild]

Just upgrade themnto worm gear clamps...easy of installation

[DailySX]

Dumb question: a 93 hatch should have an OBDI Consult Port, right? According to the FSM it should be behind the fuse lid.. But when i open up the fuse lid, there's no open-ended 14pin connector there. Am i missing something?

[Silv1401]

Looked around for part numbers but can't seem to get reliable info. Does anyone know if the S14 in-cabin rear view mirrors were shared amongst any of the R-chassis cars? They appear somewhat similar to an R-33 but can't confirm.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by DailySX

Dumb question: a 93 hatch should have an OBDI Consult Port, right? According to the FSM it should be behind the fuse lid.. But when i open up the fuse lid, there's no open-ended 14pin connector there. Am i missing something?

theres a consult port under the dash, below the steering wheel. if youre sitting in the drivers seat it will be about where your shins are. Theres a removable panel.

http://www.texasnissans.com/tx/forum...ead.php?t=1494
(sorry the pix don't work but the info is good)

[DailySX]

Originally Posted by brndck

theres a consult port under the dash, below the steering wheel. if youre sitting in the drivers seat it will be about where your shins are. Theres a removable panel.

http://www.texasnissans.com/tx/forum...ead.php?t=1494
(sorry the pix don't work but the info is good)

Thanks! The link seems to be referring to SR, but i'm assuming location-wise it should be the same for 91+ KA24DE OBDI? Hmm that's where I thought it was too. Maybe it's tucked deep in there somewhere? I'll have to look again.