jerry beans navan s14 sr20det

[S14rebuild]

Congrats! Cant wait to see the car completed..gonna be fuego

[s1421]

Hell yeah bay looks nice!. Cant wait to see the contrast when its assembly time

[jerry_beans]

Any Sr masters here?! When I drive my car it sputters under 3500-4000 but under boost it pulls fine. Idle also stays at around 1100-1500 RPM. Switched my z32 maf and still does it, timing is good, coilpacks good, adjusted idle and even disconnected the injectors.

Some thread point to CTS, some to maf, some to o2 sensor. I’m stumped

[tb13]

Originally Posted by jerry_beans

Any Sr masters here?! When I drive my car it sputters under 3500-4000 but under boost it pulls fine. Idle also stays at around 1100-1500 RPM. Switched my z32 maf and still does it, timing is good, coilpacks good, adjusted idle and even disconnected the injectors.

Some thread point to CTS, some to maf, some to o2 sensor. I’m stumped

A buddy of mine was having this exact same issue recently, high idle and a bad sputtering in low rpm. I had a spare CAS he swapped it in for shits and the car ran fantastic at a recent drift event. Give it a shot if you can borrow a CAS!

[jerry_beans]

Originally Posted by tb13

A buddy of mine was having this exact same issue recently, high idle and a bad sputtering in low rpm. I had a spare CAS he swapped it in for shits and the car ran fantastic at a recent drift event. Give it a shot if you can borrow a CAS!

Hmmmmm interesting. I’ll give that a shot. My buddy has his off the car right now. I’m trying the CTS and igniter now. Gonna try a third maf as well. Thanks for this dude! I’ll let you know what happens

[jerry_beans]

So we switched out igniter chips, coil packs, MAFs, disconnected O2 sensor and CTV solenoid, checked TPS and CTS with multimeter, and everything was fine and didn’t change the way the car idled or the break up around 2000 RPM. I’m gonna try the CAS today. I also found one locally Incase that is the issue. Fingers crossed. IDK what else to check.

[S14rebuild]

Check ur grounds

[jerry_beans]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Check ur grounds

THIS... im an idiot.

[S14rebuild]

Welcome! Lol. Happens alot

[jerry_beans]

Finally getting around to updating this post-Final Bout failure. Im going to continue through the updates prior to leaving for Houston, Event, and post event.

Im warning y'all now, IM A FUCKING IDIOT.

So shortly after my last update, I took the engine over to Joes shop.

All the brake lines were back in place, rack/crossmember, new GKTech tension rods, sway bar bushings, and tension rods were all on.



So a few of the changes that needed to be made were the HKS actuator placement, PSM Cobra down pipe trans mount location, and the mounting location of the PSM HMIC and length of piping.



First up is the HKS actuator issue. For some reason, my actuator and turbo wouldn't agree with each other. The bracket for the original actuator pushed the actuator away from the center of the turbo, causing the actuator rod to be angled very awkwardly. To address this, we bent the rod on the HKS.



The only downside to this, is that i cannot adjust the actuator length as easily anymore. i have to disconnect the rod and twist the end in and out, rather than having 2 10mm nuts tight on each other.



also forgot to mention i had that 90 degree elbow welded on to the turbo. Justin had an issue where he kept blowing out couplers at that very spot, so he had it extended on his s13 as well. No more issues since, so i did the same.

After the changes made to the turbo, it was time to bolt up the down pipe.
FIRST THINGS FIRST. In order for the Cobra DP to fit in conjunction with the Maverick adapter and CD009, you have to grind some material off the bell housing and adapter plate as seen below. IT WILL NOT BOLT UP without a grind.







I thought I had better pictures of the grinding job I had done, but no dice.

Once the DP was mounted, we measured up the location for the transmission/exhaust mount PSM has on the lower end of the DP. One the SR transmission, it bolts up perfectly (obviously) and keeps the exhaust from hanging low. This was a feature i was hoping to retain with the CD009. As much as it pains me to destroy really nice welds, we grinded off the beads without taking off too much material from the rods.





In its original position, the bracket hits the GKTech transmission crossmember. it needed to moved back exactly one inch (IIRC).















Again, I remember taking pictures of the bracket Joe fabbed up for me, but i don't have it. This is a cutout of the bracket shape.



I don"t even have a picture of it all mounted up together. Take my word for it, Joe did a really good job getting that exhaust to tuck all the way up with the CD009. One of the rods is much closer to the flange, so bolting up the exhaust is a little tricky, but still achievable.





Next up was dropping the engine in. Known fact: you have to shave down the bell housing, as well as bang in the transmission tunnel so the transmission fits. this is what the bell housing looked like after.



After killing my shoulders with the mallet in the tunnel, the engine finally fell into place. Loving the removable rad support. That shit came in clutch as fuck.











With the engine being in, Joe and i began to discuss moving the PSM HMIC forward to avoid any heat-soak with the radiator being in direct contact of the IC. we cut the tabs off of the sides and moved them forward approx. 1 inch or so. With that adjustment, we had to extend the IC piping.

After some mocking up, we had a general idea of where we needed everything to be. Having the Taarks PS relocation bracket helped clear up plenty of room for the new intake piping path.





Hard to tell, but the HMIC sits closer towards the headlights.









Once everything was bolted up, I mounted up the Amazon Transmission oil cooler for my PS fluid. You can see it under the IC on the picture above this.

Since all the Fab stuff was done, it was time to bring the car back to my parents house to get it running under its own power. This is where my "brilliance" shows. haha.





So once the car was Back in the garage, I added fluids, buttoned up all the odds and ends, and connected the engine harness.

Drama took these pictures. promise im not that fat. its like a XXXL long sleeve and the wind caught it. lolololol





We were able to get the car running, but the car had a really rough idle and it was running STUPID lean. We checked the CAS, TPS, timing, fuel system, Injectors, and couldn't figure out why my my car was running so lean. Thinking i had a leak on the cold side, i took apart the intake manifold, replaced metal gaskets, and checked the fuel rail for leaks. turns out i had a fuel leak on a few of the injector seats. ordered the parts and replaced hoping this would help.















After trying multiple possible fixes, the AFR slightly improved, but nothing to be excited about.



With Final Bout being less than a few days out, I got a hold of Martin (RS Enthalpy) and overnighted my ECU to him for a retune. we were thinking if he increased the fuel percentage, it would fix the lean issue.

One of the local homies had a ECU that was compatible with my car. i was able to load up the car with that ECU on to the transport trailer. Off to Houston they went.

[tricky_ab]

WOOOOO an update!!!



I'm all in!