LS1 350z Drift Build 'Nuff Said'

[ka-titties]

I have the older version of that bench I got for my birthday about 6 years ago. Its holding up kind-of strong. Good to see they changed the bench top material.

This thread is one more thing to look forward to on Sundays with Breaking Bad lol.

[KansaiDrifter]

Originally Posted by Royal_T

Okay KansaiDrifter,, I will be coating all my parts with this stuff mpz spray lube..

Thanks bro..

Right on man, you can use paste type too, even like O'Riely's or Napa will have assembly lube. Yeah just wanted to give ya a heads up on that, I would really hate to see all your hard work and moolah go bad. Yeah build looks good man, have fun with a torque monster =D

[Matthew Murphy]

hey, its sunday wheres the update? haha

[revat619]

Subscribed. I love high quality build threads and LS1s. lol

[Sideways570sx]

this thing is going to be nasty, i have a 98 f body LS1 also that i am throwing into my 240....but seeing this is making me want to throw it into my Z33, and then swap the VQ into the 240!!! hahahahha ....

[s13silvia_R]

Keep up the good work, seems like the LS is a popular engine to get big power out of a NA.
What kind of headers are you going to use?

[heyitzalan]

i'm surprised u putted a new cam but no new cam bearings...

btw nice build.

[JaredP]

Originally Posted by heyitzalan

i'm surprised u putted a new cam but no new cam bearings...

btw nice build.

i may be wrong...but i dont think the aluminum ls block uses a cam bearing

[Royal_T]

STAGE 1: Phase 3 'rocker arms/valve springs/ head Install'



Beer of choice this week is DogFish Head again but their Raison D'Etre. A deep, mahogany Belgian-style brown ale brewed with beet sugar, raisins, and Belgian-style yeast.

Man I just love the after taste of this beer, def a good summer time beer..



Okay what I have to install today is some, Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Chromoly Pushrods and Titanium Retainers that came with the Camshaft package I mentioned last week..Also ARP head studs, Comp Pro Rocker Arms and Comp Cam High Performance Valve Locks.

Comp Pro Rocker Arms: $300 (got from LS1tech.com)

Comp Cam High Performance Valve Locks: $31.99

ARP 12-point head studs: $279.99



First we have the Dual Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers...



These things are sooo sick..



First you have to place the bottom Retainers..



Pretty straight forward on this part..



Next is the Valve Seals.. Now to install these you will need a 12mm and a hammer. Tap, Tap, Tap, take your time and make sure they are straight. You don't want to F one of these up and have to go out and buy new ones..



Seals all in place. Next reinstall the Valves



Bam!! Next are the Dual Springs



I bought some Comp Cam High Performance Valve Locks



Now you are going to use the same Valve Spring Compressor tool you rented from Advance Auto Parts to install them..



Place the Spring over the valve and then the top Retainer. Compress the Spring with the tool and then insert the Valve locks. Slowly release the tool and bam you have money...



All done with this head..On to the next..



Nice and easy.. These things looks so damn good..



Both heads are complete.. On to the next item at hand..



Next we have the lifters and lifter try. Pretty simple install...



Just place the roller lifters in the tray,, easy as it sounds..



Now drop into place...



Good to go...



And use a 10mm and torque to 106 in-lb.



Next we have the 12-point ARP head bolts



Comes with all the bolts to mount your heads to the block..



First you will install all the bolts in their proper location and tighten with an allen wrench.



Next install the head gasket. Mine came with my long block so I did not have to buy one.. It was brand new in the bag still.



Next I placed the heads on the block. Then installed the ARP bolts. Now to torque these down I followed the pic above and torque all 10 15mm bolts to 22lb-ft.

Edit: Okay I was confusing some people about the torque specs on the ARP bolts. You just need to follow the ARP instructions that came with the box.



Again it is a lot of work but worth it..



Close up...



Next are the Hardened Chromoly Pushrods



Texas Speed Shop knows their stuff and so glad they are in TX.. Good stuff..
To install the pushrods just drop them in...



Next are Comp Pro Rocker Arms. I got these off of LS1tech..



These things are so sick..



They come with there own guide plates.. You just need to torque them down to 22lb-ft.



Next install the rocker arms, and also torque them down to 22lb-ft



There you have it, all rocker arms installed, looks sick..



Now I painted my Valve covers the same black crinkle.. I think it looks legit..



Well folks there you have it. Heads all bolted up..

Total price so far: $3,076.96

Next week STAGE 1: Phase 3 'Front Drive Assembly & Accessories'

[Royal_T]

Originally Posted by Sideways570sx

this thing is going to be nasty, i have a 98 f body LS1 also that i am throwing into my 240....but seeing this is making me want to throw it into my Z33, and then swap the VQ into the 240!!! hahahahha ....

I say DO IT!!!!!

Originally Posted by s13silvia_R

Keep up the good work, seems like the LS is a popular engine to get big power out of a NA.
What kind of headers are you going to use?

Thanks bro,, Using the 806 heads for now, wanted to just get this done first and then stroke the engine later with better heads..

Originally Posted by JaredP

i may be wrong...but i dont think the aluminum ls block uses a cam bearing

You are correct sir no cam bearings

[JaredP]

lookin damn good man. it may be worth it to note that the head studs into the block dont need to be torqued too high. it does say in the packaging for them how tight, but i know when i did my buddy's sr it was pretty much hand tight plus a little for good measure.

other than that, looks like these ls motors go together pretty damn easy, can't wait to get my 6.0 to have some fun with! keep it up, cant wait til next week

also, just making sure, but you got the cams, lifters, pushrods and all that stuff for the 699 on the previous page? soooo much cheaper than imported stuff

[Om1kron]

good job dude!

[Flipzide]

awesome build!

[flipmike22]

I love your build! Can't wait for more updates!

[kouki_steve]

There is in fact cam bearings on all gen IV gm style blocks, 4.8,5.3, 5.7, 6.0.
They are somewhat pressed in, and yes they are recommended to change
out when an aftermarket cam install is done.

They will not fall out loosely, use a slide hammer with a special EXACTLY sized
tool for the job to tap them out. Cam bearings are recommended to be
changed when the block is completely stripped down.

Those 806 heads are among the weakest flowing heads of the gen 4 series.
Try to find some 243 heads in the future for the most power, or go the 5.3
head route. Which ever you can find, both will bump your compression a bit.

[turbo2nr]

awesome work man!

you sir have great beer choice as well! can't wait to hear this things gona be nasty!!

[Royal_T]

Originally Posted by JaredP

lookin damn good man. it may be worth it to note that the head studs into the block dont need to be torqued too high. it does say in the packaging for them how tight, but i know when i did my buddy's sr it was pretty much hand tight plus a little for good measure.

other than that, looks like these ls motors go together pretty damn easy, can't wait to get my 6.0 to have some fun with! keep it up, cant wait til next week

also, just making sure, but you got the cams, lifters, pushrods and all that stuff for the 699 on the previous page? soooo much cheaper than imported stuff

Oh I did not use those torque specs.. I actually followed the ARP instructions that came with them.. Should have been clear with that.

And yup only 699 plus tax for the Cam, pushrods and dual valve springs.

Originally Posted by kouki_steve

There is in fact cam bearings on all gen IV gm style blocks, 4.8,5.3, 5.7, 6.0.
They are somewhat pressed in, and yes they are recommended to change
out when an aftermarket cam install is done.

They will not fall out loosely, use a slide hammer with a special EXACTLY sized
tool for the job to tap them out. Cam bearings are recommended to be
changed when the block is completely stripped down.

Those 806 heads are among the weakest flowing heads of the gen 4 series.
Try to find some 243 heads in the future for the most power, or go the 5.3
head route. Which ever you can find, both will bump your compression a bit.

Oh these heads are just temp, just to get the car running.. I plan on getting some new ones when I am ready to do the stroke motor..

Originally Posted by turbo2nr

awesome work man!

you sir have great beer choice as well! can't wait to hear this things gona be nasty!!

Thanks glad you like

[JaredP]

Originally Posted by Royal_T

Oh I did not use those torque specs.. I actually followed the ARP instructions that came with them.. Should have been clear with that.

And yup only 699 plus tax for the Cam, pushrods and dual valve springs.



Oh these heads are just temp, just to get the car running.. I plan on getting some new ones when I am ready to do the stroke motor..




Thanks glad you like

Yes what I meant was when you buy the head studs they have a different torque spec than oem head bolts but you didn't mention it for others.just a comment

Sent from my SGH-T959D using Tapatalk

[kevin464]

Looking good buddy! Can't wait to see this thing cruising down 1604 again lol

[G240]

Excellent taste in beer.... and the build isn't too shabby.

Cheers!

G.

[TwelveAM]

This is gonna be super pimp once it's finished, keep up the good work! :thumbsup

Can't wait to see this thing in action

[misterdumby]

I cant wait to see it in the car. lookin good

[Royal_T]

Thanks guys

[Royal_T]

Sorry guys for the late update, was a crazy weekend.. Well back to the action

STAGE 1: Phase 3 'Front Drive Assembly & Accessories'



Beer of choice this week is Fischer Blonde, a blonde ale with a baright gold in color, this beer displays unique savour with subtle fruity accents. Beer is imported from France. Also has a pretty cool bottle top. Has a pretty good taste could be better but not bad with a good burger..



What we have to install today is a water pump with some AN fittings that I got from my good friend Stew, which also has a build thread going on with his LS1 S13 (check it out HERE), ARP Water pump bolts, Alternator, KRC tension pulley and a KRC drift power steering pump. Nothing but the best for my babe..

Water Pump: $150.00

ARP Water Pump Bolts: $37.00

Alternator: $97.99

KRC idler tensioned is: $178.75

KRC Drift power steering pump: $460.57

KRC F-body pump bracket is: $68.75



Stew had a -16AN welded in for the thermostat, but I will be changing this to a -20AN..



Here is a -20AN that I had welded for the inlet side..



More AN fittings thanks to Stew, other inlet was welded shut,,



New Gaskets and ARP bolts



Bolt it up, and torque to 11 lb ft (First Pass) and 22 lb ft (Final Pass)



next is the alternator bracket



And the alternator its self..



bolt it up





make sure you torque down



starting to come together



Next is the KRC goods,,



First up is the idler tension pulley.. KRC makes some nice products and would highly recommend them to any one.



Mount up the bracket first and follow the instructions for torque specs.



Already looks good.



Then mount up the bracket for the pulley itself and again follow the KRC instructions.



So pretty...



Then mount up the pulley itself. In this pic I have not fully installed the center bearing all the way, but you get the idea..



Perfect



Next is the KRC Drift power steering pump bracket



And the power steering pump itself too.



The craftsmanship of this power steering pump is damn good



Comes with all the fittings you need.



Mount up the bracket first, and be sure to follow the instructions.



Then mount up the power steering pump to the bracket. Again follow instructions for torque specs..



There you have it, almost looks like a complete motor. Coming together slowly but surely..

Total price so far: $4,070.02

Next week STAGE 1: Phase 4 'LS1 to LS6 PCV conversion'

[darkzschneider]

damn this is coming along really nicely. Good work man.
I love all the welded fittings.

Whos doing all the welding? anyone local?

[Slideways74]

Part number on the KRC pump?

Lookin good man.

[95KA-Turbo]

Looking good man! Your next step was not fun at all for me! Hopefully it went/goes smoother for you. This is going to be a beast of a motor for sure!

[Royal_T]

Originally Posted by darkzschneider

damn this is coming along really nicely. Good work man.
I love all the welded fittings.

Whos doing all the welding? anyone local?

thanks bro,, you should hit up Russell if you need something welded..

Originally Posted by Slideways74

Part number on the KRC pump?

Lookin good man.

BAM!! for the pump 199941dr and the bracket 71410080

[Royal_T]

Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo

Looking good man! Your next step was not fun at all for me! Hopefully it went/goes smoother for you. This is going to be a beast of a motor for sure!

Thanks bro,, it went pretty smooth for me.. what problems did you run into?

[blueshark123]

this is like a tv show waiting for updates since we know ur ahead in the build already