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Old 10-24-2017, 12:59 PM   #21421
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Ive been doing some research for awhile now and I am trying to figure of the heat for my 1995 S14 with a S13 SR20. I have the heater lines ran. But the cable coming from the heater core that goes to a stock valve on the KA water lines. What do I do with that?

Splice the stock valve inline with SR20 heater hoses, and keep the cable connected.
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Old 10-24-2017, 01:40 PM   #21422
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Quote:
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Splice the stock valve inline with SR20 heater hoses, and keep the cable connected.
Does it matter whether its the feed or return?
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Old 10-24-2017, 01:58 PM   #21423
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Probably won't make too much of a difference, but I would place it on the same side of the heater core as it was stock. And in the same flow direction.
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Old 11-01-2017, 01:14 PM   #21424
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Hey guys I’m in the market for a leak down tested. Some offer a 12mm adapter others a 14mm, can’t find one with both so my question to you guys is, is the spark plug hole in the KA a 12mm or 14mm? I want to get the right one the first time , Thank you


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Old 11-01-2017, 01:20 PM   #21425
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^ KAs and SRs (and probably just about every other Nissan engine) are 14mm.
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:59 PM   #21426
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are both kouki headlight brackets the same or is passenger side and driver side different?
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Old 11-01-2017, 09:02 PM   #21427
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Quote:
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^ KAs and SRs (and probably just about every other Nissan engine) are 14mm.


Thank you [emoji120]


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Old 11-03-2017, 11:20 PM   #21428
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Just out of curiosity. How is the oil pan clearance for 1uz swaps?
About the same as stock ka's or lower?
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:28 PM   #21429
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Has anyone bought a brand new set of wheels from Rays or any type of company and painted over them for a different color?

If so what was the process? I really want a set of Gram Lights 57CR but hate the colors they offer and wanted to get it painted a glossy silver.
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:34 PM   #21430
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Quote:
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Has anyone bought a brand new set of wheels from Rays or any type of company and painted over them for a different color?

If so what was the process? I really want a set of Gram Lights 57CR but hate the colors they offer and wanted to get it painted a glossy silver.
then get em powder coated... done! DONT SPRAY PAINT THEM! DO IT RIGHT!
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:40 PM   #21431
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Quote:
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then get em powder coated... done! DONT SPRAY PAINT THEM! DO IT RIGHT!

I second that, spray paint the F out of them. If all else fails, powder coat them. DONE!
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Old 11-11-2017, 04:57 AM   #21432
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

Quote:
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then get em powder coated... done! DONT SPRAY PAINT THEM! DO IT RIGHT!


Well yea, but was curious if you had to strip the original paint off the wheel yourself or do they just sand blast it for you?

If you do have to strip the paint what's the best way to do so?
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Old 11-11-2017, 06:41 AM   #21433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JrDarknes View Post
Has anyone bought a brand new set of wheels from Rays or any type of company and painted over them for a different color?

If so what was the process? I really want a set of Gram Lights 57CR but hate the colors they offer and wanted to get it painted a glossy silver.
Why not just call Mackin, and baller up, and order a custom set in polished or chrome? The color is an added step after manufacturing so the metal is a neutral grey/silver. Run with that and clearcoat the fuck out of it. Or spray the fuck out of them with hyper silver vinyl so you can change color later on if you don't like it
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Old 11-11-2017, 08:19 AM   #21434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JrDarknes View Post
Well yea, but was curious if you had to strip the original paint off the wheel yourself or do they just sand blast it for you?

If you do have to strip the paint what's the best way to do so?
The paint doesn't need to be peeled off. It just needs to be prepped properly by the autobody shop when they repaint them. Quality base/clear will hold up just as well as the factory paint.
Rattle can product is not good quality.
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Old 11-13-2017, 10:17 AM   #21435
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Quick question for anyone:

So I'm installing a new distributor in my s14, and I've followed the correct steps to doing a removal/installation of a distributor to the best of my ability up to the point where you're inserting a new distributor.

I have the rotor lined up towards cylinder 1 but the distributor just won't fit in completely. It gets really close, but I can't budge it to go in all the way. Anyone have any issues with this? And what would you recommend?

Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2017, 11:07 AM   #21436
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^^ So it wont go in flush even if not clocked correctly to cy#1?

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Old 11-13-2017, 11:11 AM   #21437
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^^ So it wont go in flush even if not clocked correctly to cy#1?

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Yeah, that's right. I have the rotor on cylinder one and I can feel it catching the gear, but it just won't go in all the way. I'm thinking that maybe I botched the position of the housing and its not flush (the little slit/notch) so I just need to keep playing with it.

But overall, I'm pretty stumped.
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Old 11-13-2017, 11:16 AM   #21438
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So even in ANY position (180 out) it wont sit flush? That is odd.

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Old 11-13-2017, 11:41 AM   #21439
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Quote:
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So even in ANY position (180 out) it wont sit flush? That is odd.

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Yeah, I don't think I did anything incorrectly, but it's just not going in properly, regardless of position, and its really bugging me.

It stops like right before the o-ring consistently.
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Old 11-13-2017, 11:57 AM   #21440
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I've read on a couple places that sometimes you need to do some light sanding if its hard to remove/install, but that's not an option currently. rip

I'll keep messing with it.

Update: The distributor, although its supposedly the correct distributor via Amazon, the shaft isn't the same to where it would need to be sanded down. So I'll have to get a new one, rip.

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Old 11-13-2017, 05:21 PM   #21441
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How much camber do stock S13 ruca’s give at the lowest end?

I am trying to find some nice arms for mine, but seems like there are actually very little selection that gives you some nice camber. I am trying to get around -5 to -6 degrees and Voodoo13 only gives -2.5 extra degrees. PBM rucas shorten up only 16mm from stock. Please help me out guys! I’ve tried to get some info of these, but there are not much of it around.
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:10 PM   #21442
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Anyone know how the concavity of 18x9.5 +30 LMGT4's compares to 17x9 +22? Im trying to run 17/18 stagger but I've heard the 17's are more concave and don't want something goofy looking.
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:03 PM   #21443
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How much camber do stock S13 ruca’s give at the lowest end?

I am trying to find some nice arms for mine, but seems like there are actually very little selection that gives you some nice camber. I am trying to get around -5 to -6 degrees and Voodoo13 only gives -2.5 extra degrees. PBM rucas shorten up only 16mm from stock. Please help me out guys! I’ve tried to get some info of these, but there are not much of it around.
Why are you trying to run so much camber?
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:57 PM   #21444
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Why are you trying to run so much camber?
100% for looks.
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Old 11-15-2017, 04:33 AM   #21445
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Quote:
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Anyone know how the concavity of 18x9.5 +30 LMGT4's compares to 17x9 +22? Im trying to run 17/18 stagger but I've heard the 17's are more concave and don't want something goofy looking.
Hmmmm....math time!

9.5" 18, 9" 17, translates to 1/4" on the outside

12mm difference between the offsets, translates to no more than a slight difference in concavity.
Total math without looking, says no more than 3/4" of concavity or less with the rear wheel having a slight amount more.

After looking at Omori/Nismo, it's not a noticeable difference unless you are on the spectrum and have associated OCD
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Old 11-15-2017, 06:46 AM   #21446
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Anyone know how the concavity of 18x9.5 +30 LMGT4's compares to 17x9 +22? Im trying to run 17/18 stagger but I've heard the 17's are more concave and don't want something goofy looking.
Most of the time the face of the wheel is exactly the same (the part that makes it "concave"), and the offset is done by varying the thickness around the wheel hub. Or the position of the face relative to the barrel is changed (giving larger lip for example). Either way the spokes are the same.
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:49 AM   #21447
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Most of the time the face of the wheel is exactly the same (the part that makes it "concave"), and the offset is done by varying the thickness around the wheel hub. Or the position of the face relative to the barrel is changed (giving larger lip for example). Either way the spokes are the same.
are you talking just the LMGT4? because concavity changing with size is quite common otherwise. 5Zigen FN01R-C is a good example. 17x9 vs 17x10. Lots of other japanese wheel companys too. many mention the different concavities specifically when looking at their sizing documents
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Old 11-15-2017, 10:15 AM   #21448
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Quote:
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Hmmmm....math time!

9.5" 18, 9" 17, translates to 1/4" on the outside

12mm difference between the offsets, translates to no more than a slight difference in concavity.
Total math without looking, says no more than 3/4" of concavity or less with the rear wheel having a slight amount more.

After looking at Omori/Nismo, it's not a noticeable difference unless you are on the spectrum and have associated OCD
I'm not sure if I follow the math to be honest, haha. The new Omori's dont look any different in concavity to me either but honestly I wasn't interested because of the engraved logo and black color. I was looking at USDM, bronze LMGT4's that some 350z's had just because they're more common and would match the bronze I have. I just really dont like when the concavity is noticeably less on the rear wheels than the fronts, especially with 17/18.

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Most of the time the face of the wheel is exactly the same (the part that makes it "concave"), and the offset is done by varying the thickness around the wheel hub. Or the position of the face relative to the barrel is changed (giving larger lip for example). Either way the spokes are the same.
Yea I'm familiar with this, but I thought LMGT4's concavity was dependent on the sizing like derass mentioned. At least I've heard there is a variation between the USDM and JDM variants but I can't find much concrete info about it. I know the US ones available for 350z's have a concave and non-cave face that changes with width but how that compares to other versions or among offsets, I'm not sure.
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Old 11-16-2017, 01:24 PM   #21449
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100% for looks.

Breh! Don't Do It


S Chassis do not deserve to be riced out
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Old 11-16-2017, 02:55 PM   #21450
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Breh! Don't Do It


S Chassis do not deserve to be riced out
Have you seen my car? There is no going back at this point lmao
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