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Old 04-14-2014, 05:13 PM   #31
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I don't think the images uploaded to this thread correctly, but here's a link to the photobucket library with the fuel lines and how the ECU currently sits after removing the SAFC wires, still trying to turn the harmonic balancer with a ratchet and 27mm socket but it won't seem to budge
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:24 PM   #32
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on photobucket in your library on each thumbnail there's a cog, click it, then click get links, use the direct field, if using the insert image button on zilvia.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:29 PM   #33
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:32 PM   #34
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Its a wiring mess, previous owner installed a boost controller, turbo timer, and multi checker in a sloppy way. All the numbers on masking tape i used to document which wires were cut from where just in case removing the safc didn't work out
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:46 PM   #35
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Ok, have you managed to rotate the crank, and get to TDC?
You need to put the ecu back in, where gonna be checking that too, but since it's out open it up and verify that it's stock and nothing is burnt.

Do you have a multimeter handy, the injector wiring looks bad and may even be pulled out? Has this swap in the car now ever run in this car?
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:04 PM   #36
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I've checked the ecu for burnt capacitators etc and I couldn't find anything wrong, I could take I picture if necessary. And yes I have a multimeter, all injectors are getting 12 volts checked that last night. This swap did run for about a week, then head gasket blew while flooring it in 5th, turbo, Fmic and bov were all drenched in oil and turbo and fmic have been replaced brand new
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:17 PM   #37
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So the ecu is stock and has no signs of damage, you can send me a picture later.

If the engine is at tdc leave it there, send me pictures later.

Remove the fuel rail with injectors and fuel lines attached. plug in the cas. Place a rag or cardboard under the injector and turn the key to on/run. Check for leaks, make a note of which injector leaks. Go to the cas and spin it making sure all injectors fire, they should click and spray, report findings or if no leaks and injectors fire turn key off put fuel rail back on.

Get engine back to tdc, prepare cas for install.

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Old 04-14-2014, 08:45 PM   #38
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before that could you confirm if this is at TDC? I managed to turn the crank but this is the farthest it went before it locked, tried it counter-clockwise as well and it wouldn't go past about the third pin from the right :/


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Old 04-14-2014, 08:45 PM   #39
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and the cam lobes seem to be pointing inwards
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:50 PM   #40
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Keep turning it clockwise if you're standing in front of it. Do NOT turn it counter-clockwise. Check to make sure the car is in neutral and you do not have spark plugs in.

Keep turning it until your number 1 lobes are pointing outwards like this : <o o>
and youre on the second notch from the left.
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:50 PM   #41
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You are not at tdc yet or the cams have been installed wrong but.....that's what the screwdriver is for.
There's a bigger problem if you can't turn the engine over with a ratchet. Was it making clink clink tang type of noises while you rotated the crank?

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Old 04-15-2014, 05:49 AM   #42
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Car is in neutral and plugs are out, just gave it another shot and #1 cam lobes are pointing outward BUT it won't go past the third notch it feels as if i'm just tightening the crank bolt. There was no noise present while rotating the crank.
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:16 AM   #43
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The crank bolt should be at 100ftlbs and the crank should rotate way before that even with all accessories connected. It could be that your not strong enough or that something is physically stopping the rotation. You need to assess the situation and let me/us know what you find. Because now i think you may have to start removing things, externally first, to find out what is stopping the engine from rotating freely. It could be anything or nothing at this point. Starter maybe stuck, belts could be too tight, etc.

I wouldn't turn it over with the key until i was sure nothing internally was damaged and/or timing is correct.
I'm still with you if you wanna tackle this. I'm just not to sure of you confidence level for what might be asked of you.
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Old 04-16-2014, 04:35 PM   #44
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I'm worried it may be a bent valve if that's the case
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Old 04-16-2014, 04:41 PM   #45
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I'm gonna take the belt off and turn the valves from the sprocket to make sure they turn in sequence and then I'll take the starter off and give it a shot and let you know
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Old 04-17-2014, 05:35 AM   #46
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Don't turn the engine over by the cam sprockets, use the crank bolt. The cams are linked by a chain, they should move together. When I asked if there was a clink clink tang sound that would have indicated that the chain was forcing the cam to skip, but you said there was no sound. You are removing the accessories to see if they are causing the binding, that's all. So you could eliminate a messed up trans by lifting the rear and spinning the tires while in neutral, spin both if you have an open differential. ebrake off of course. Then put it back down and move on to the next thing if it checks out.
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Old 04-18-2014, 04:02 PM   #47
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It's hard to tell in the video but does it ever sound like it wants to start or does the engine just turn over?

I've subscribed to the thread. Hopefully you'll be able to figure it out. I'd love to hear what the problem ended up being.
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Old 04-18-2014, 04:13 PM   #48
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Yeah it sounded like it really wanted to start! But it would crank for days with nothing I really hope so too thanks man been two years since I drove it haha, and Cotbu I'm working to eliminate the transmission possibility but could you clarify what you mean by remove accessories?
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Old 04-18-2014, 04:20 PM   #49
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power steering pump belt, alternator belt, ac belt, water pump belt and starter.
you could just loosen the belts, then try turning the crank again.
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Old 04-18-2014, 04:24 PM   #50
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How old is the gasoline in the tank? If it's more than 6 months old that could be an issue.
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:52 PM   #51
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there was a minimal amount of old gas, couple months old and I put about 10 litres of new gas in to try starting it. I'm having trouble with the power steering pump now, I'm trying that first cuz i have a gut feeling thats the culprit, there's three 12mm bolts and one 14mm bolt that you can see through the holes, loosened the 14mm and the 2 bottom 12mm and it won't move
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Old 04-19-2014, 02:10 PM   #52
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Also just noticed what looks like oil but smells like gas coming through the crank bolt?
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Old 04-26-2014, 05:44 PM   #53
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Any updates?
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:43 AM   #54
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Not as of yet, gonna re torque the crank bolt in case that's what's causing that leak and give tdc another shot should have updates tomorrow
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:00 PM   #55
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Progress update! I put everything back together except the fuel rail and since I wasn't hearing the pump prime I spliced the power wire and connected a battery pack to it and the injectors fired after putting it in ignition!
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:04 PM   #56
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Now that the fuel has been figured out, when my friend cranked the car it turned for a second and made a noise as if something internally is hitting something and the crankshaft turns a bit but locks and hesitates to keep turning? Could it be that the crank bolt is too tight? This problem wasn't present before when the car would actually crank
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:37 PM   #57
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I said don't crank it over with the key until you were sure nothing internal was damaged,

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Old 05-05-2014, 07:10 PM   #58
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yeah and no progress was being made, so its either hydro locked or bent/broken valves
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