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Old 04-05-2014, 01:11 PM   #1
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SR20DET cranks but won't start!

I really need help and i can't seem to find it anywhere and i can't seem to find a post similar to my exact story,my sr will crank as if its about to start but won't, summary of its history:
3 blown head gaskets/ motors later, i changed literally EVERYTHING. Put a new 180sx sr20det blacktop, changed head and intake gaskets, shaved head, put in a new intake, new fuel filter, new isis t25 turbo and fmic, new MAF and new radiator, new 370cc injectors, too much things replaced to list. I had a horribly wired Apexi SAFC, so i spent hours removing it because it would restart everytime you turn the car on and mess with the air/fuel ratio. After all this, I charged the battery and tried starting it but it only cranked, after a few cranks i walked to the bay to see if anything was leaking/smoking considering i've had a horrible history with leaks and nothing BUT there was a scent of fuel around the car, I can't hear the fuel pump start but i'm assuming its because there's already fuel in the lines and intake to spark? anyways, i haven't driven this in 2 years and put a lot of time and money, if anyone can help me start it it would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:04 PM   #2
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anyone have advice???
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:17 PM   #3
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Have you done any troubleshooting?
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:19 PM   #4
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i took out the spark plugs, they were black at the top and smelled like fuel so i got a new set gapped them and put them back in still didn't start, sorry forgot to mention that
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:37 PM   #5
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Need basic info. Does it have spark?
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:04 PM   #6
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i just check a couple of them and neither sparked :/
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:30 PM   #7
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Ok, shouldn't be to hard to fix then. ignitor chip, cas or wiring. Just start by seeing if the coilpacks have power to them.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:49 AM   #8
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Yep checked each one 10.9v!
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:44 AM   #9
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Today is literally the only day in the week I have time to put into my car so any further input is much appreciated
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Old 04-06-2014, 09:51 AM   #10
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fuel air spark timing compression.... test and find out which one you don't have and work your way back from there...
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Old 04-06-2014, 10:23 AM   #11
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How should I check for air and fuel?
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Old 04-06-2014, 10:28 AM   #12
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i disconnected my maf and it still wouldn't start if thats what you mean by air
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Old 04-06-2014, 12:46 PM   #13
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Check Ecu for codes. Pull the fuel rail and spin the cas to make sure the injectors are spraying good.

Check the tps voltage. Make sure the maf has the right voltage for KOEO Since there was an afc in there it might have messed up the wires worse than you think.
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Old 04-06-2014, 01:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sr20detkouki View Post
Yep checked each one 10.9v!
Ok, there is three wires right? and the one in the middle had constant power? Than the issue is either its not grounding or not getting the signal to spark (the two other wires on the coil pack connector)
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fuel air spark timing compression.... test and find out which one you don't have and work your way back from there...
Doesn't have spark
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Old 04-06-2014, 09:03 PM   #15
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So you're saying to follow the wires and see if they mess up anywhere? And ultimate irving it would start before when I had the afc in there as for fuel when I crank I smell it around the engine bay
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Old 04-06-2014, 10:23 PM   #16
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Make sure there is fuel coming through.. The fuel pump always makes a noise before starting the car. Make sure your plugs are actually on the ECU correctly, Also make sure your ignition chip works.

Also is it possible for you to make a video of whats happening? would help alot
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:00 PM   #17
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Well I don't hear my fuel pump priming anymore, I thought it was cause there's already gas in the motor, and what do you mean on the ecu correctly? And yeah I'll put a video up tonight if it's possible to do on this page thanks a lot for the input!
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:39 PM   #18
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You should hear the pump prime. I would worry about the spark first. Before you follow any wires you need to identify which one is causing the problem.

You said it has 10.9 v to the coil packs so you need to check the ground (black). Do a continuity test between the connector and the coil pack ground.

If this tests out alright (which it likely will unless you don't have the ground hooked up) than you need to test the third wire (color varies depending on coil pack).
1.To do this you need to remove the cas so you can turn it by hand.
2.Hook your test light/multimeter up so that the positive is on the positive terminal of your battery (or a constant positive) and the negative is on the connector
3. turn the cas by hand *with the key on* and it should go crazy (in your case it most likely won't)
*there might be an easier way to do that, but this is what i did.

Once you have identified this as your problem you can work back.
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:10 PM   #19
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alright i'll try the continuity test and make sure the coils are grounded properly, so the ground wire should have zero voltage?
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:11 PM   #20
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and by that i mean how would i know if the ground wire is okay if its supposed to read no voltage
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:10 PM   #21
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vx6n...ature=youtu.be
here's a video 91onevia
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Old 04-09-2014, 05:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
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alright i'll try the continuity test and make sure the coils are grounded properly, so the ground wire should have zero voltage?
Do you know what a continuity test is? You need to put one end of your multimeter on the connector and the other on the coil pack ground (part of the coil pack sub harness).
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:14 PM   #23
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make sure your fuses are good? could be something as simple as a popped fuel pump fuse since it sounds like its on the verge of starting
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:40 PM   #24
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SR

if all else fails like stated in earlier comments check your ignitor chip. i was having the same issue about 2 years back and i took weeks to even think about checking my chip and sure enough there was my issue.
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Old 04-12-2014, 03:35 PM   #25
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Just checked the ignitor chip and on one side there's 11.8v but on the other side there's no power which I'm assuming is what it should be? I have a hitachi ignitor chip by the way doesn't look like the stock sr20 one
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Old 04-12-2014, 03:36 PM   #26
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Fuel pump fuse has also been checked and is fine
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Old 04-12-2014, 11:19 PM   #27
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With your new motor, did it come with a new ecu? or harness?
Was the previous engine the same? I could walk you through basic setup and diagnostics, but would need to be able to see, hear and have you perform certain actions as i request, simple things such as turn the camera to the left shoot full engine bay and show me all of the sensors, wiring, vacuum lines and etc. You will also be doing Timing so removing the valve cover, setting the engine to TDC is the first request. Lets get you running this thread is way too long for a no starting sr20!
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:18 AM   #28
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I used the same ecu I had on the previous motor which was the same as this 180sx blacktop s13, and used the same harness, all I got was the motor itself because I had a blown head gasket and that would be awesome! I need an SR guru to walk me through this, do you have Facebook or an email I can send videos and contact you through etc?
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Old 04-13-2014, 02:47 PM   #29
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:11 PM   #30
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