ECU of Choice Nowadays

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Not going to utilize the integrated 4-bar map? I'm doing two bosch press/temp (oil and fuel), a Rife pressure sensor for coolant, Rife IAT, three port boost control, Continental flex-fuel sensor, and just having the AEM X-line wideband communicate with the ecu via CAN.



A Link thread sounds like a good idea! Yeah I just add a couple Deutsch DTM connectors 30cm off the ecu just so I can unplug things quickly if need be.

I've been using a lot of this stuff for heat shielding lately.

https://www.designengineering.com/heat-sheath-gold/

I'll ask, but I think mine was in-stock at the US Link branch. The shop I used to work at was the biggest Link ECU retailer in America in 2019.



Yeah, even I'm not going to do that at this point. The expansion harness is separate, which is where you're going to be adding additional sensors. The whole advantage is that you don't have to build a harness. Later down the road? Sure, I want to do e-throttle and some other stuff, but for now, plug and go!

BTW: I was told by the tuner at Whalen's that the OEM trigger disc isn't super consistent, especially at high rpm. He recommended the DIYautotune 12-slot trigger, so I snagged one. Shipped in one day!

Dang great idea about the 12 slot trigger wheel.... should be plug and play? I just bought one too.

Why the Rife stuff? All my stuff was just from link.

I dont want to run a long vac tube all the way to ecu. Something is going to nick or cut it and then i am just going to be searching around forever. I try to keep all my vacuum tubes short and visibile so i can just easily replace it vs. Guessing. Just me...

[slider2828]

Just started the thread here for link reference:
https://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=676648

[samotage]

I don?t like the idea of a long vac tube either, more from the perspective of the little air molecules and their journey. I?d rather have wires through the firewall, which will be rooting anyway from extra sensors.


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[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Dang great idea about the 12 slot trigger wheel.... should be plug and play? I just bought one too.

Why the Rife stuff? All my stuff was just from link.

I dont want to run a long vac tube all the way to ecu. Something is going to nick or cut it and then i am just going to be searching around forever. I try to keep all my vacuum tubes short and visibile so i can just easily replace it vs. Guessing. Just me...

Yeah you can just setup the trigger pattern in the Link software and you're good to go.
I'll probably run a braided line just for safety sake. I've run it on a few GT-R's and it's worked great, just have to take the necessary precautions when securing the line.

I'm mounting all my sensors in remote locations, so the fuel press/temp will be at the fpr and the oil press/temp will be in the oil cooler line. Pressure sensors don't really like vibrations (being mounted to the engine). I didn't want to have to mess with mounting the coolant pressure sensor in some weird bracket so the Rife sensor comes with a nice housing that already has a bracket and is already -3 AN. The IAT was honestly just me liking the design better, I've never been a big fan of IAT's from an aesthetic viewpoint and the Rife is low profile and has a potted pigtail I can seal up with raychem and a Deutsch connector.

[TheRealSy90]

The oem trigger wheel is consistent, the problems comes with aftermarket ecu's being able to see all the windows on the wheel. The resolution is really too high for most of them so most change to the lower resolution trigger wheels.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

The oem trigger wheel is consistent, the problems comes with aftermarket ecu's being able to see all the windows on the wheel. The resolution is really too high for most of them so most change to the lower resolution trigger wheels.

The Link can actually read it, and it will actually give you a scope of the signal. If you rev the thing past 5k you'll understand that it's not a great signal for clarity's sake. Pretty sure the stock ecu just DGAF after a certain rpm.

[RalliartRsX]

Haltech, ecumaster and a host of other stand alones are also able to decode the standard SR20 wheel so yeah.

The idea that aftermaket ecus are unable to decode the 360 trigger wheel is a thing of the (decade or so,) past

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Dang great idea about the 12 slot trigger wheel.... should be plug and play? I just bought one too.

Why the Rife stuff? All my stuff was just from link.

I dont want to run a long vac tube all the way to ecu. Something is going to nick or cut it and then i am just going to be searching around forever. I try to keep all my vacuum tubes short and visibile so i can just easily replace it vs. Guessing. Just me...

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Haltech, ecumaster and a host of other stand alones are also able to decode the standard SR20 wheel so yeah.

The idea that aftermaket ecus are unable to decode the 360 trigger wheel is a thing of the (decade or so,) past

i agree with RalliartRsX, haltech has had no issues with reading the oem cas wheel for over a decade. haltech was the first to crack the nissan cas because they do a lot of their testing on nissans for nissans.



why does your LINK tuner suggest the non oem wheel for the LINK ecu if its suppose to be on par with the haltech? just another reason to be selective about what ecu you put on a nissan

[TheRealSy90]

So exactly what i was saying, at higher rpm's the ecu's have trouble reading the trigger windows.
Why do you people disagree with me while at the same time proving what I was saying... -_-

[RalliartRsX]

....because what are saying is incorrect??

Which part of haltech and other ecus have decoded the sr20 CAS signal do you not understand?

What Poorman is saying is a 360 degree wheel gives a shit and unnecessarily super populated signal that really shows zero benefit to say a much more common and prolific 12+1 trigger setup. Poor is not saying ecus cannot decode, he is saying the stock 360 wheel.is not.....ideal.

The internet says shit like "no ecu can decode sr20 cas". Reality says it's available from the trigger wheel drop down of just about every single aftermarket ecu

[slider2828]

Look what the dog dragged in after getting sprayed by a skunk

How do i size a pic in bbc

[slider2828]

Just to get another alternative to hall sensor and trigger kits. I really liked this solution. Probably going to them for a Harmonic Balancer.... They also have a Dry Sump for the RWD SR20DET at an affordable price:

https://rossperformanceparts.com/pro...-sensor-mount/




https://rossperformanceparts.com/pro...rmonic-damper/

[samotage]

For an RB26 with a stretchy belt drive cam and 10k rpms reluctors and crank triggers are probably required. An sr is an 8k motor with a non stretchy chain, the OEM sensor is just fine, unless perhaps you plan to dry sump, billet block and rev 10k with all the dragons that come with that scenario.


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[PoorMans180SX]

Well it looks like my Link Plug-in has finally been ordered. I got two Bosch Press/temp sensors for Fuel and oil (These are cheaper to buy from efisolutions in Australia and ship here than purchase stateside). Also a Rife pressure sensor for coolant and Rife fast acting 1/8npt IAT, which is pretty neat.

I didn't realize this, but if you have a flex-fuel sensor, that will transmit fuel temp data as well. So I will have a temp differential pre- and post- fuel pressure regulator, hah.





Slider, how's your setup going?

[Allen2688]

Anyone have thoughts on the new Haltech Nexus ECU?
Looks to be pretty great bang for the buck for a complete standalone setup when you consider it incorporates the pdm, wideband, data logging, along with tons of injectors and ignition outputs. All into one unit. Eliminates having to piece all these separate units together and make them happy talking to each other, when at the end of the day it would cost about the same.

Downside I see right now is there is no real plug and play harness solutions yet because its fresh on the market, and pinouts have changed since the elite series.

[TheRealSy90]

it's really, really expensive.

[zombiewolf513]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Well it looks like my Link Plug-in has finally been ordered. I got two Bosch Press/temp sensors for Fuel and oil (These are cheaper to buy from efisolutions in Australia and ship here than purchase stateside). Also a Rife pressure sensor for coolant and Rife fast acting 1/8npt IAT, which is pretty neat.

I didn't realize this, but if you have a flex-fuel sensor, that will transmit fuel temp data as well. So I will have a temp differential pre- and post- fuel pressure regulator, hah.

Making me feel like i need to switch from beat up old PFC sooner than later, what a nice setup! Kudos

Any reason why you chose the bosch temp/pressure sensors over the rife?

[RalliartRsX]

It actually comes out to less than buying a haltech and a proper pdm or about the same

If you want to see expensive, look into syvecs or motec ans associated pdm

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Well it looks like my Link Plug-in has finally been ordered. I got two Bosch Press/temp sensors for Fuel and oil (These are cheaper to buy from efisolutions in Australia and ship here than purchase stateside). Also a Rife pressure sensor for coolant and Rife fast acting 1/8npt IAT, which is pretty neat.

I didn't realize this, but if you have a flex-fuel sensor, that will transmit fuel temp data as well. So I will have a temp differential pre- and post- fuel pressure regulator, hah.

Slider, how's your setup going?

I just finished putting in oil and coolant bosch sensors.....
I also bought a Ross Performance Crank Damper race version with an under drive for the power steering.

The damper with the taarks ps pump relocator, I had to rebuy belts because the stock belt was now too long.... talk about PIA..... Also the mail truck in my area got broken into so they lost my upper radiator hose from P2M that has an incorporated bung for my coolant temp sensor....

Long story short senors are all in. I just made an ecu case outta 1/4" lexan that I got as scrap from a local plastic store. Cost me $4 lol....

That and a hand saw because I don't have a table saw, came out ok, certain parts are a little crooked LOL.... This weekend I will put in some stands in the ecu casing that I made to mount the link in there....

Coming along.... then wiring then firing!

[spacemonkey]

Anyone else had this happen? Cap exploded on my S13's PFC

[slider2828]

Did you have a short or something? Its not unheard of on pfc. Ask apexi to fix it

[samotage]

Poof! And the magic smoke escapes...

Simple enough to fix if you can solder ok, and know the value of the cap that fried.


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