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Old 09-23-2011, 12:19 PM   #31
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so this swap is going to look like that shitty sr swap you had? there is a difference in budget and half assed. this looks like BOTH
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:28 PM   #32
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Quote:
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there is a difference is budget and half assed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNSZgbJsSxU
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:33 PM   #33
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Honestly let these guys talk all the shit they want..


Keep us updated

That 2jZ looks clean BTW
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:49 PM   #34
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Its alive and just some new pics getting a downpipe made cant beat it for 50 bucks at local exhaust shop.


Then the girlfriend acting like she knows cars.


ok so onto wiring




and here is the pinout i used they are all bout the same.


step one u need a digital volt meter, some automotive grade 14 and 12 gauge wire with four 30 amp relays, more grounds than power wires and all your power sourcing can come from the fuse block under the hood oh and u need the e10 connector which i got at a junkyard out of a wrecked gs300 any will work that had a non turbo 2jz just cut it out. and leave a tail.

ok on the e10 connector
[pin 1] needs be switched so your ecu knows when to come on and isnt running all the time no need for relay u can tie into one of the nissan ones under the hood

[pin 6] is your check engine light i just hooked mine up behind the instrument cluster one wire to the bulb.

oh do not mess with the park switches i assume your not using the auto tranny i thought i had to have a neutral safety switch but just cut pin 76 on the e9 connector or you will be rev limited at 5k rpms

ok back to the e10 conn
[pin 24] is the efi relay that needs to run to your sensors i will get back to that

[pin 31, and 32] need to be tied together and run to a 30amp relay this is what powers the ecu oh and it needs to be switched if u dont wanna run pin 1 to the ignition switch.

[pin 33] needs to have constant power its your ecu memory no need for relay does not pull enough amperage

Onto [e9 connector] [pin 4] needs to be grounded to chassis

[pin 28] no need aristo is map based only

[pin 65] ground to chassis

[pin 69] ground to chassis

[pin 79,80] ground to chassis.

now on the starter extend both your old starter wires to the starter now u dont have to do nothing but turn the key.

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/file/f...ody+Pinout.png
now the link above is to the chassis loom the big connector on your harness you need a few wires off this

[E 3] needs to be cut and connected to pin 24 on the e10 connector its your low voltage for all your sensors

[f 6] needs a switched 12v source with a relay. this is power to your ignitor and efi

[f 11] chassis ground

[f 12] is your tachometer output from your ignitor for when you get your dakota digital box

and the fuel pump i run to a switched relay i got lazy i will be hooking the fuel pump to the ecu this week.

but the car pulls hard ass hell with no idle issue
thanks for looking guys more updates to come any questions just ask.
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:00 PM   #35
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so this swap is going to look like that shitty sr swap you had? there is a difference in budget and half assed. this looks like BOTH
im not gonna say a bunch of crap but my work shows good numbers and i drive the shit out of them. im a driver not a mothers polish queen like some that just care bout looks.
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:03 PM   #36
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Any video of this running/Driving?

not doubting what you say for wiring but i would just like to see/hear some visual proof that it worked.

Good work non the less.
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:19 PM   #37
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lets see a vid, good job so far and good info. Let us know how the mounts turn out.
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:25 PM   #38
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Oh and u only need to extend the wires about 12 inches and seeings how non are sensor related no need to solder. but both connectors will go through the stock location on firewall.
sounds pretty half assed
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:29 PM   #39
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What about the alternator?
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:31 PM   #40
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dude your my hero! finally someone that posted up some wiring info. i dont why people are giving you shit when your contributing to society!
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:43 PM   #41
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sounds pretty half assed
cool first post brah
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:43 PM   #42
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2jz - YouTube

quick vid i have a exhaust leak. i will post the vid of me sliding it
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:47 PM   #43
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cool man.

My .02 on fixing things.
would be do something about the upper radiator hose. It looks bent/kinked.
Move the fuel filter away from the downpipe, that looks like an accident waiting to happen. Or at least problem waiting to happen.
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:58 PM   #44
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cool man.

My .02 on fixing things.
would be do something about the upper radiator hose. It looks bent/kinked.
Move the fuel filter away from the downpipe, that looks like an accident waiting to happen. Or at least problem waiting to happen.
yeah im waiting on a slim fuel filter i ordered. and im fabing a pipe for the radiator heres a vid of me sliding in it angle is alot different than sr.

2jz s14 drifting - YouTube
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:04 PM   #45
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im not gonna say a bunch of crap but my work shows good numbers and i drive the shit out of them. im a driver not a mothers polish queen like some that just care bout looks.
Why not clean it up after making it functional? I guess that would take away from the half ass theme you have going on here. Since you think that people who take their time and keep everything in their bay organized and clean only care about lucks, I'll tell you that one of the benefits of doing this is when you have a problem it will be easier to track down if everything is nice and neat and not all thrown together and shitty like your car. Please don't tell people that it i not necessary to use solder on something.
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:11 PM   #46
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this dude posted soem VERY valuable information, if it wasnt for all the stupid fucking thread shitting i would think this thread would make a good sticky.
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:19 PM   #47
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Why not clean it up after making it functional? I guess that would take away from the half ass theme you have going on here. Since you think that people who take their time and keep everything in their bay organized and clean only care about lucks, I'll tell you that one of the benefits of doing this is when you have a problem it will be easier to track down if everything is nice and neat and not all thrown together and shitty like your car. Please don't tell people that it i not necessary to use solder on something.
no im not saying that at all mine will look good once im done but for now i can enjoy it. i work on it everyday its like a paint job it looks like shit in prep and primer stages. but the finish result is what counts i was just gonna build it on .net my thread is not done. theres still alot of work. as for the wiring why would u solder power wires? do u solder your battery to the terminal.
thanks for the support though. i just dont understand why u have to spend 10grand before u drive it. it operates runs great and doesnt overheat what else can u ask for. the looks will come soon so. your turn.
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:33 PM   #48
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sorry put the link kinda small
2jz s14 drifting - YouTube
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:15 PM   #49
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What kinda clutch/flywheel you gonnna run? and mounts?
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:38 PM   #50
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What kinda clutch/flywheel you gonnna run? and mounts?
I was lucky enough to get the non turbo flywheel with the tranny. and im running comp clutch 6 puck.
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:09 PM   #51
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Great info in the build after some stupid comments!

But onto some seriousness More pix of the GF!!
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:22 PM   #52
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As for wiring looked at my buddys harness in his s13 with a 2j and none of the power or ground wires are soldered only signal. And this is from myjzswap.com just to help the people that keep blasting. If u don't like my thread go pay someone 3 to 5gs to do the swap for u
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:58 PM   #53
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no im not saying that at all mine will look good once im done but for now i can enjoy it. i work on it everyday its like a paint job it looks like shit in prep and primer stages. but the finish result is what counts i was just gonna build it on .net my thread is not done. theres still alot of work. as for the wiring why would u solder power wires? do u solder your battery to the terminal.
thanks for the support though. i just dont understand why u have to spend 10grand before u drive it. it operates runs great and doesnt overheat what else can u ask for. the looks will come soon so. your turn.
It doesn't cost 10 grand to clean things up. At most it will cost a couple of hundred if you want to do sleeving and AN lines. That's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about using some electrical tape and zip ties to clean up all of the random wires sitting in your bay, taking the time to clean the bay while there is no motor, stuff like that. You say you are going to go back and clean it up later, but you didn't clean it up with your SR.

Your exact words were: "u only need to extend the wires about 12 inches and seeings how non are sensor related no need to solder." There is nothing there talking about power wires. You said that because they aren't important sensors, they don't have to be soldered. That's called half assing something. I hope you aren't a mechanic, because I would be very uncomfortable with you touching my car after seeing your low quality of work.
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:04 PM   #54
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who cares.

it works, and is used.

fair plays mate. what did you do for a prop? or did I miss that,,?
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:14 PM   #55
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Quote:
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It doesn't cost 10 grand to clean things up. At most it will cost a couple of hundred if you want to do sleeving and AN lines. That's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about using some electrical tape and zip ties to clean up all of the random wires sitting in your bay, taking the time to clean the bay while there is no motor, stuff like that. You say you are going to go back and clean it up later, but you didn't clean it up with your SR.

Your exact words were: "u only need to extend the wires about 12 inches and seeings how non are sensor related no need to solder." There is nothing there talking about power wires. You said that because they aren't important sensors, they don't have to be soldered. That's called half assing something. I hope you aren't a mechanic, because I would be very uncomfortable with you touching my car after seeing your low quality of work.
god shut the fuck up.

hes not touching your car, hes not asking to.
he showed a GREAT diagram/write up.
which anyone can use to make their bay as clean as they like.


Im sorry that his 2j swapped 240sx is not as good as your 2j 240sx...


oh wait.
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:35 PM   #56
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Here u go buddy let me give u a breakdown mechanic no certified tech yes.
And as for your comment the only wires that need be extended are the ones listed in the wiring write up. Which are not sensor related so get off my ass you win take your comments somewhere else unless you have somthing constructive to say. I'm tired of this pissin contest. I haven't said nothing out of the way to u. And the sr was full blown track mainly. This is daily it will look good. And shops are the first to do halfass shit but they hide it. none of mines halfass.
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:36 PM   #57
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Because this is the ONLY wiring diagram for this swap ever made. You don't see my point. He half asses everything, so why trust is wiring capabilities?
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:51 PM   #58
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ahhhhhhhhh everyone shut the fuck up if you dont like his build get the fuck out dam
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:57 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeezwasRiceSauce View Post
you need a front mount intercooler with a RHD feed. chase the air from the opposite side of the engine bay.. and you could gain up to 34hp
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wiring map from 2jz - sr20 - ka24de lights harness? RB20 ecu, 350z Maf, SR20/RB25de engine bay harness. should run 9.7 voltz. stock cps. But the New R35 GTR Skyline runs this mapping board so the pressure will dump about 8psi unexspected if you have brake light for your guage cluster.. its a brakes heat sensor for the 2 step. it crosses the rev limiter and ignition spark to counter the brake dust-shield removal (no skylines have dust shield anymore)



OP, where at in GA are you?
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:21 PM   #60
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Because this is the ONLY wiring diagram for this swap ever made. You don't see my point. He half asses everything, so why trust is wiring capabilities?
So don't trust it, and don't use it.


problem, fucking, solved.



mad props for putting this up for everyone man.
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