1UZFE into S-Chassis

[wyteboiii]

Headers, Exhaust kits, and Flanges

He use to make the complete headers welded and ready to go but now its a u weld it kit for $500

[turtle m3th]

1uzfe header flange
This guy is awesome to deal with! I'd grab some flanges from him, and spend the remaining $400+ on some kick ass collectors and tubing.

[s13hvv]

Is wiring cut and dry for the ps pump

[turtle m3th]

Pretty much. 100amp fuse and a relay hooked up to a switch and you're good to go. You can find the diagrams on Google if you search "rx7 electric power steering." The pump itself is kind of rare though. Don't see to many sw20 junkers.

[s13hvv]

Thanks it really is pretty simple to the local junkyard I go. Write up if anyone else is interested in doing this. http://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-2...ersion-847818/

[Fries]

You guys used the KA24DE clutch pressure plate bolts to the flywheel? I need to buy some ARP replacements because my clutch kit had no bolts. Should I go with bolts for the MR2 since I'm using that flywheel?


FUARRRRRK.

Also. What do you guys do with your fuel lines? Gimme gimme.

[turtle m3th]

here's what I did for my fuel lines. Grab one of each and you'll be fine.

This one goes to the fpr
https://www.belmetric.com/bnjf1278-b...ath=13_853_855

this one goes to the other rail
https://www.belmetric.com/bnjf1078-b...ath=13_853_855

[Fries]

Turtle, where do you prefer to get your replacement/performance parts for the 1uz. Starter, intake gasket, Intake piping etc.

[MiamiZ33]

I got a quote from my local waterjet guy for $55 per flange from 3/8" mild. I would largely prefer a waterjetted edge over a plasma cut edge, especially from a welding perspective. I'm going to get mine cut this week, but I've got everything I need to start fabbing my headers, including merge collectors and enough tubing to remake the Y-pipe. If anybody wants a set of waterjet flanges, let me know.

I'm still working out my wiring - I got the car cranking today, but my battery was dead after sitting for a year so I couldn't get much out of it. I'm crossing my fingers that once it's charged (or replaced) it will fire up. I still need to run my fuel lines, but I will just leave them hanging until I confirm it runs.

[Fries]

Finally got the lighting and heat needed to work in the garage through this cold ass winter here in upstate NY.

She's looks messy, but its really not too bad.



Started to take the harness off the motor, but I'm not very excited about it. Gotta remove intake manifold and all kinds of stuff eh?

Trying to decide whether I care about a clean motor that much, but then again might as well do the intake gasket and valve cover gaskets before they need them. Then again... 85k motor.

[Jifter]

Originally Posted by Fries

You guys used the KA24DE clutch pressure plate bolts to the flywheel? I need to buy some ARP replacements because my clutch kit had no bolts. Should I go with bolts for the MR2 since I'm using that flywheel?


FUARRRRRK.

Also. What do you guys do with your fuel lines? Gimme gimme.

My kit from brett didnt come with them either. I used Camry pressure plate bolts. I ran my fuel lines through the tunnel to avoid the exhaust heat. Fuel line are 5/16

[Jifter]

Not to steer ppl away from this swap or anything but I managed to seize my 1UZ after its 2nd drift day. It turns out that the rod bearing(s) died (black ones in the pic). The engine had 220xxxkm. Looking for another donor lol









Here is a vid of me and my buddy tandeming before it seized

[nismobenzo]

planning on using bits and pieces of this thread to use a ka trans in my ls...good stuff!

[zenkiset]

that sucks jifter. but hey. atleast you can snag another engine for $3-400.

[MrChow]

Woah.. I've been out long. I started about 6 monthes ago haven't been able to get any real work done but this is what I have so far.

1uz vvti out of GS400 found for $300 Came with everything but the keys but I found someone to bypass the immobilizer.
Got a Flywheel and tranny plate for $500.
In the middle of rebuilding the motor. My friend that's a master tech and toyota is helping me out with this so I can't wait to start to actually get it in the car.

I need to backtrack and read up all that I've missed i this thread.

[Fries]

Not excited about doing this wiring. Trying to learn how to weld so I can modify the tundra headers to fit.

If anyone has wiring for dummies for the 1uz (91) to s14, I'd appreciate it. I don't really want to have to send it out to be modified.

[zenkiset]

Originally Posted by Fries

If anyone has wiring for dummies for the 1uz (91) to s14, I'd appreciate it. I don't really want to have to send it out to be modified.

sezio on here has a write up with pictures that shows step by step what to do supposedly for the s14. ive talked to him a few times about it but he wont give it away for free. he says to "paypal him what I think is reasonable." I really don't have a clue what to offer to him since hes helped me on my swap a lot so far. don't wanna low ball him yanno. ive been debating on just asking him what hed charge to send it to him but im tight on the "monnies" right now though and im scared he'll want a lot for it. maybe you can try talking to him about it Fries.

[nismobenzo]

Originally Posted by MrChow

My friend that's a master tech and toyota is helping me out with this so I can't wait to start to actually get it in the car.

hopefully that works out since that motor has never been at a toyota dealership unless some guy got lost one day..ha

[MrChow]

Originally Posted by nismobenzo

hopefully that works out since that motor has never been at a toyota dealership unless some guy got lost one day..ha

Lol yeah he's never had to pull a head from these motors. He's pulled IS-F heads but not 1uz.

[MiamiZ33]

Got my engine cranking and possibly running for a few seconds when I noticed a massive puddle of oil on the ground.

Under closer inspection, the oil seemed to be coming from this hole:



What is this? It looks like it's supposed to be plugged (notice old thread sealer there).

Any help would be appreciated.

[Fries]

Oil pressure sender. Just like a KA.

[imoverherre]

Anybody got a flywheel and and clutch set for sale???

[chingon]

anyone figured out a way to make the oem (uncut) headers clear on either chassis? Seems like the only way to make this swap cost effective vs going ls-variant.

[Fries]

Originally Posted by chingon

anyone figured out a way to make the oem (uncut) headers clear on either chassis? Seems like the only way to make this swap cost effective vs going ls-variant.

Have you priced out a 5.3/t56 swap?

Even paying to have custom manifolds, y pipe, and wiring done you'll still be under a t56 LSx swap by about $4000.

This swap should not cost you more than $3500 said and done.
That's paying a premium for a motor and KA transmission.

[chingon]

Originally Posted by Fries

Have you priced out a 5.3/t56 swap?

Even paying to have custom manifolds, y pipe, and wiring done you'll still be under a t56 LSx swap by about $4000.

This swap should not cost you more than $3500 said and done.
That's paying a premium for a motor and KA transmission.

truck 5.3's are around 1k-1500 in my area w/loom and ecu. Nothing stopping you from using the stock tranny or non t-56 like in this swap (though maybe a flat plate may not cut it as it did here).

I mean I love what it's being done here, I just wonder if there's any way in hell to make oem manifolds fit (by moving further back and going w/smaller booster).

[Fries]

Alright here's what I got for wiring into a s14.




Instructions for wiring a 1uz that I've found state that:

• +12V wired to pin (BATT)

• (M-REL) drives the Main EFI Relay: switches it on.

• (+B) and (+B1) both get 12volts when the Main EFI Relay is switched.

• Main EFI Relay appears to be working fine.

• (E11) is grounded.

• (E2) is grounded.

• (E02) is grounded.

• (E01) is grounded.

• (STA) gets a 12volt input from starter relay when the engine is cranking.

• (IGSW) gets a switched power 12volts from the ignition switch.

• You might want to find the check light (W) and use as an earth for a light
(switched power on the other side), tells you if the ecu is on or not.

2.1.2 In the wiring loom:

• Find the injector power wire, and connect that to relay / switched power. It’s
usually a striped wire. In the older motors it’s Black/Orange, newer engines it’s
Blue/Red.

• Find the power to the igniters, connect that to a relay / switched power, usually
the same colour as the injector power wire.

• Sometimes: the sensor power wire is loose in the loom, find it, give it switched
power.

[Fries]

Run a relays, its a fail safe to protect the ecu.

[MiamiZ33]

Update: My header fab is underway, but I decided to go the easy route and just cut out all the garbage the previous owner attempted at fabbing. I may wind up remaking the entire driver side header, but time will tell.

On the passenger side I will be sticking with the relatively unmodified passenger side pacesetter tundra longtube header but adding a new collector with a v-band attachment. For the drivers side, I am essentially remaking 3 of the 4 runners and reusing the flange.

I bought formed collectors from coneeng.com (which are the best designed collector for the money). I decided to go with a 2.5" collector into a 2.5 Y-Pipe which will merge with a single 3" exhaust. Most of these headers go into a 3" collector which I believe is too big for a 300 hp engine.

I will post pictures tonight if I can put in some work today.

[Fries]

Originally Posted by MiamiZ33

Update: My header fab is underway, but I decided to go the easy route and just cut out all the garbage the previous owner attempted at fabbing. I may wind up remaking the entire driver side header, but time will tell.

On the passenger side I will be sticking with the relatively unmodified passenger side pacesetter tundra longtube header but adding a new collector with a v-band attachment. For the drivers side, I am essentially remaking 3 of the 4 runners and reusing the flange.

I bought formed collectors from coneeng.com (which are the best designed collector for the money). I decided to go with a 2.5" collector into a 2.5 Y-Pipe which will merge with a single 3" exhaust. Most of these headers go into a 3" collector which I believe is too big for a 300 hp engine.

I will post pictures tonight if I can put in some work today.

That sounds like my plan too, once I get to it. Post teh pictures.
What are you doing to measure out/figure out your routing?

[MiamiZ33]

Originally Posted by Fries

That sounds like my plan too, once I get to it. Post teh pictures.
What are you doing to measure out/figure out your routing?

Measure, cut, repeat.