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Old 03-21-2006, 06:57 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suprmods
power windows and the glass from both sides? wiper blades and motors? sound deadening could easily be 30 lbs on the interior, and if you wanted you could go under the car as well to take the underbody tar off as well.

you obviously arent that worried about a minimum weight, but there are ways to make your car loose 150lbs without cutting holes in the floor panels. Come the day when you are ready to compete wheel to wheel, you may feel the need to make the car lighter. Where there is a will there's a way.

manual windows, i need to keep them becuase hte car sits outside 365 days of the year unless its beign worked on. I am going to keep wipers for rainy day track events, i know everyone uses rainX but it hasnt beent eh best for me, so wipers stay. The soudn deadenign is all i have left to remove along with a few interior brackets, maybe 50lbs worth of stuff left. And that alli will remove because everything else (heater, wipers, dash) is for function.



Quote:
Originally Posted by suprmods
Also you really need to consider a way to adjust your alignment. The Hoosiers and Toyos respond very well to negative camber. With a stock setup you will not be using the most of the tire. Also tire roll over is not necessarily due to the tire, or the suspension. It can be a combination of the two, but it also has a large part due to the alignment. You could have a crappy suspension, and a crappy tire, but if you had enough negative camber, you wouldnt get alot of roll over. I would really try and find a camber kit or something just so you can get the most out of the Hoosiers.

Why buy $700 worth of tires, and only use $350 of it?? (not sure on the costs, but you get the idea)
I have KYB shocks and Tein springs as of right now, they alright, but i just sinply cant afford to upgrade to the coilovers i want (Buddy Club Racing spec dampener). I have planned on getting a camber kit to mount up to get more negative camber, but right now all i have at most is about -1*. I dont recall saying anythign about tre roll over, just teh fact that my old Azenis were not good enough and have been heat cycled too many times and they were nolonger heating up properly to get any kind of traction out of them. The hoosiers were gotten so i can get used to somethign really grippy instea dof somethig made for lower powerd cars. Id liek to egt used to them before i go playing with camber setups.

oh and shhhhh, dont tell anyone, i got my hoosiers for 250, with only 2 autoX runs on them.
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Old 04-26-2006, 08:42 AM   #62
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gauges and switch panel mounted...what do you guys think?






Bung for the oil temp mounted, pic is without sensor installed, but it is all snugged up now and not leaking....



my V-mount brackets in view, oil cooler location, and a odd shot of my intake i have rigged up with a piece of leftover hotpipe from teh FMIC kit i used to run....
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Old 05-17-2006, 09:03 PM   #63
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Just thought I'd chime in on here on a few points:

Saw agrabau's BMW run at a Devens autocross (think it was last year?). Car sounded badass, but too bad it didn't pass noise level I personally liked the tow- setup more :P


As for camber: it'll depend a lot on how low/ stiff your car is. With the 9kg springs up front and whitelines on full stiff I was at about 4.5deg running the 275 Hoosiers. Same spring setup and slightly lower I was at just under 3 (going from memory) running 245 Victoracers. More grip = more roll = more camber, I guess (a lot of my setup was based on heat distribution).

As for tire, 225 RA-1's are definitely undersized for anything over stock (or bolt ons) power, IMO. Given, I have limited experience on RA-1's... but running low to mid boost on my old setup (good for around 200-220hp) with the 245's, I felt very limited. Halo ran a 225/ 245 RA-1 setup for a few (i think) autocross seasons and I'm pretty sure he wasn't too impressed with them (always had the "you've got the better tire setup" card when visiting NER :P).

As for tires on a 7.5" wheel: they'll fit fine, especially if they have some sidewall. I ran 245/45/R16's on z32 wheels for a long time before upgrading. A lot of stock class autocross cars will run an oversized tire as well. I might be running 275's on an 18x8 for instance (racing my daily driver while rebuilding my s14 this year).

As for suspension: Koni 28-series all the way :P Might go with revalved Yellows for my daily driver if I do Solo II Nationals with it (have an urge to invade the "pony car class" with my G) but looking at running a full race setup on my s14, although that'll be a trailered car. If you're going to be driving to/ from events, though, I'd bet a Ground-Control/ Koni Yellow (revalved/shortened or not) would be your best bet.

Finally, I like the theme of your interior, but for a full race car I would've done a cluster on the steering column. You don't need a speedo/ stock temp & fuel gauge for a race setup (well, fuel might be nice to know, but as long as you can see it at all even if not at a glance). I'm also hoping you're doing a full roll cage with side intrusion bars... especially if you're gutting the doors...

Anyways, nice build up and updates! Hope you get everything sorted out, regardless of flames and what not.
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Old 05-17-2006, 10:27 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AceInHole
Just thought I'd chime in on here on a few points:
As for tire, 225 RA-1's are definitely undersized for anything over stock (or bolt ons) power, IMO. Given, I have limited experience on RA-1's... but running low to mid boost on my old setup (good for around 200-220hp) with the 245's, I felt very limited. Halo ran a 225/ 245 RA-1 setup for a few (i think) autocross seasons and I'm pretty sure he wasn't too impressed with them (always had the "you've got the better tire setup" card when visiting NER :P).
Actually, it was Advans A032-R.. And yeah, they sucked. Why? Mostly because of the staggered setup. I understeered pretty mad with those tires. 245 all around felt much better, and -2.5 degrees of camber up front felt better too. My car is still somewhat underpowered for SM class, but I personnally don't think a SR can produce enough torque down low. I am starting to believe that the best engine to put in a 240sx in SM class is a VQ35DE... with some bolt-ons, or better!
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Old 05-18-2006, 08:38 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AceInHole
I like the theme of your interior, but for a full race car I would've done a cluster on the steering column. You don't need a speedo/ stock temp & fuel gauge for a race setup (well, fuel might be nice to know, but as long as you can see it at all even if not at a glance). I'm also hoping you're doing a full roll cage with side intrusion bars... especially if you're gutting the doors...

Anyways, nice build up and updates! Hope you get everything sorted out, regardless of flames and what not.

i cant afford Tach and fuel level sensor just yet, thats teh only reason i have kept the factory cluster in place. When i eliminate that i will put Fuel Level, Tech, maybe small speedo, and my water temp gauge. But i need teh other gauges because my time on track is so long in teh straits i can glance over an monitor everythgin really quick too see how EGT, Oil Press, Oil Temp, Water Temp and boost are all doing, gauges are rotated so that when at operating temps and pressures they all point strait up, so it does only take a glace to check everything.

I am getting a 4pnt roll bar built in a few weeks, i cant go 6pnt yet because i cant afford the Sparco seats i want just yet along with harness, so stock seats will have to do for now. The 4 pntis made to my design after being at many track events and working track events i have a specific design and standards i want followed, and when the 4pnt gets added onto to become a 6 pnt, it will again be my design for the shop to build around me. its all legal setups just strong and reliable.

thanks for the input tho, ill post more pics as things change
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Old 05-18-2006, 11:32 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaLo
Actually, it was Advans A032-R.. And yeah, they sucked. Why? Mostly because of the staggered setup. I understeered pretty mad with those tires. 245 all around felt much better, and -2.5 degrees of camber up front felt better too. My car is still somewhat underpowered for SM class, but I personnally don't think a SR can produce enough torque down low. I am starting to believe that the best engine to put in a 240sx in SM class is a VQ35DE... with some bolt-ons, or better!
Ah... got mixed up with ur setup :P As for the VQ35, I'd run it, but the lack of being able to boost it in SM takes some of the fun away. If I could do a hybrid VQ30 then maybe... but haven't looked into it enough to really see how feasible that'd be, plus I'm already close to making enough useable power on the KA for autocross.
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:45 PM   #67
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welp, i dropped my car off at MA Motorsports to get a 4 point roll bar installed to meet SCCA/ NASA specs. Should be done like wednesday ish, at which point i will post pictures of the cage installed and painted. Along with pics of my new short exhaust.
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:23 PM   #68
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For those who didn't believe my car could be that light.



That was with a full 13 gallons in it. So trackday race weight with me in should be right at 2260. 1/4 mile race weight should be under 2200lbs because of only having 4 gallons in the tank.

I still have some wiring and sound deadening to remove and possibly windows and gutting the door skeleton. But that should amount to no more than 50lbs. 10lbs of the roll cage is already installed. The rest should weigh between 150 and 200lbs. That will bring me back to somewhere around 2300. That is without an composite materials or significant efforts made in weight saving in other areas. Little thing like aluminum driveshaft and such could add up to bring me back below 2300lbs. I'm not really aiming for that but if it happens cool. Its not really a big deal anyway though because SM minimum weight is 2500 so it'll all be gained back in ballast.
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Old 06-07-2006, 11:19 PM   #69
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Thumbs up

To the OP...thanks for sharing your car's details... looks like it's coming along nicely. Good job, and have fun improving on your setup and driving.

Broaner...awesome weight. Guess you just proved to all the doubters My car should be down around that weight as well. I'll be going to the scales in August for a weigh-in.

About roadracing, I'd like to offer some of my experiences as well for grip driving. I'm not saying my setup is the way to go, and not saying I'm a know-it-all. Just sharing my experiences, that's all.

I recently relocated my fusebox and relay box to behind the dash, similar to whiteGLX. It was pretty easy, but I can see how somebody could mess it up. I did this to make the engine bay clean and to get more room up front so I can run more POSITIVE CASTER. I'm at +7 right now and occasionally rub the front part of fender well. Now I can bang it out and get up to +10 degrees.

My alignment: Front: -2.5 camber, .5 toe out, +7 caster. Rear: -1.5 camber, .25 toe in. Car is lowered too much right now and I am going to raise it a little bit. My links are angled up way too much. This doesn't prevent me from running very well at my track though.

For mods: I have:
spl fender brace
spl tension rod
Tanabe sways front and rear
cusco rear control arm and toe rod
kazama traction rod
Silk road coilvers (8/6)
Cusco strut bars (F+R)
subframe spacers (installed all 8)
Sr engine w/ stock turbo + FULLRACE mani at 240rwhp
fmic, koyo radiator, FAL twin fans...no oil cooler or PS cooler yet.
ZetaIII bucket (bucket seat was essential for me improving my driving).
Work s1, see sig. Currently on 235/40 and 245/40 bfg KDW (way too hard, can't wait to use the pilot sport cup)
Wilwood 4piston front brakes w/ 12.2" rotors.

I am very happy with my setup as it is....except for one thing. I am going to replace my Tanabe rear swaybar with the stock swaybar.

My track (mid-america motorplex) is mostly 3rd gear, and top speed up to about 130-140mph. and one 2nd gear turn. I can have the throttle all the way down midway through the apex on nearly every turn. I thought my setup might be too extreme and too stiff but it has proved to be very nice and my chassis/suspension flex is becoming very minimal.

Some of the turns require late apex for better laptimes. There are lots of S-turns and some double right turns.

The double right turns require a wide entry through the first turn while carrying higher entry speed. Approaching the second right and you simply let off the gas and unsettle the back end for a nice turn in and full throttle exit through the second right-turn. I really enjoy these turns.

As most of you know, simply getting partially through the turn and then throttling out while unwinding the steering works very well. My first outing had me getting full throttle after 3/4 of the turn, but more seat time and I'm now full throttle at mid-apex.

My end goal is to use an S15 turbo with r-compound (pilot sport cup because they last much longer than kumho/hoosier) while still getting full throttle at mid-apex.

I've been very impressed with the ability and reliability of my S13. Last time at the track and I passed a nice porsche w/ cage, huge wing, the works, some STIs on falken 615 tires, and two ZO6 vettes. The first ZO6 was unexperienced, easy kill. The second...well he looked like he knew how to drive. I was really amazed that I reeled him in through the course of a few laps. He finally gave the signal to pass, albeit very reluctantly Many people at the track ask me what kind of car it is, and many people are stunned that it can pass their MUCH more expensive cars. I had an instructor ride with me and he was very impressed with the handling, stating that it is on par with the ZO6s he races and rides in.

Stock turbo on SR is more than enough power for now, and the only thing planned for the future is more seat-time, an oil cooler, and r-compound. I do 20-30minute sessions with my water temp rising to a max of 95 degrees C. Maybe this is getting too hot? But I haven't had any problems yet, and run from 3-8pm (30minute sessions with cooldown in between). EGTs max at 870 degrees C.

When my supra is finished it will spank the laptimes of my nissan but that's expected (moton triple adjustable shocks and 285/315 r-compound).

People...mods are always a good thing but nothing is better than seat-time at a track, and time with an instructor in your car to give you pointers.














The beginning:


LOL
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:11 AM   #70
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looks good 2JZ, i dont haev the funds for a good suspension setup like yours, ebcause i have spent it all on track time overe here. 2 day events, 8 sessions per event, and only 7 under my belt, 2 more in the next month tho.
I just got a set of used hoosiesrs that are still very good for a few events that i mounted on RX-7 wheels (FD), and i turned my boost down a tad, so i shoudl be around 240whp now.


Seat time i my must, but i have made modifications approprietly when i think they are needed, V-mount was to keep water temps down (not for bling fator), rollbar is for safety because i am getting into the 150+mph range at VIR, rewiring was because my chasis harness took a crap on me and cought fire about a year ago.

Oh yaeh, i didnt relocate anything, i removed it all. all the wiring in the car is roughly 5lbs or less.



rollbar pics for teh kiddies











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Old 06-08-2006, 12:29 PM   #71
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I love these types of threads.

You laid it all out there very well 2jzgte. Tracktime...

I need lots as I have none besides a few parade laps at Road America. LOL.

What clubs are you guys in? There are only two around here. Madison Sports Car Club and Porsche Club the Milwaukee chapter. The Madison group seems to be a bit more snobby about things and usually not very welcoming to newcomers. The Porsche club has trackdays all the time. This chapter requires a lot of corner working time. Thats fine with me I guess because my car won't be track ready for two years anyway so...

I'm thinking of joining one next spring. Do you guys have any suggestions or experiences to share relating to the clubs your a part of?

WhiteGLX, I'm really liking your cage man. Looks very well done. Its actually very similar to what I had in mind. Infact the RSTB tube looks almost identical to mine.


I decided to go a bit crazy last night. A buddy hit a deer while driving my car on saturday. Trashed the rad support. So I decided to take the chance to do some work. I removed all of the remaining wiring harness left in the car. And if there is no wiring for the windows there is no point in having windows. So I'm probably 30lbs lighter now. Also, now that I have plenty of room I finally had a chance to do some test fitting on this Vortech.
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Old 06-08-2006, 12:45 PM   #72
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um, what motor is that?
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Old 06-08-2006, 01:49 PM   #73
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Quote:
I'm thinking of joining one next spring. Do you guys have any suggestions or experiences to share relating to the clubs your a part of?
Ive worked 2 day events with NASA and ive driven in a few also. Just come prepared with tools to do almost anything within reason. They are usually driving schools, that way your inscurance will cover you if something happens. So enjoy the time out there, learn alot but most of all dont worry abotu racing cause there is always going to be someone faster that you at weekend club events.


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um, what motor is that?

that is a maxima engine mated to eithe 0r a 300zx tranny or a 350z tranny.....
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Old 06-08-2006, 02:12 PM   #74
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Echo, its a VQ30DE right now. I'll be swapping in a VQ30DE-K at some point. I'm not moving up to the 35 because I'd like to stay eligible for boost.

Thanks for the input man. Its going to be tough for me to go into a trackday and keep my mouth shut just learning all I can. But I really want to in a couple years.
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Old 06-09-2006, 12:26 AM   #75
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Sick rollbar. I need to do a rear hoop sometime as well...then I can finally get a 6-point harness.

Broaner - I'm not a member of any clubs yet because I work overseas and only spend 1/3 of the year in the states right now. I will be joining a BMW club soon though so that I can get more tracktime in. I'm in the midwest too...we can meet up in August if you want. You should come down to mid-america motorplex if you can make it. I'll be there for the trackdays in August and September (every other Wednesday).

http://www.midamericamotorplex.com/2006/default.asp

You should just get to a trackday with your car...preferably one with instructors on site that will ride with you. If there aren't any instructors, then you can just try to get a ride with someone else. They can show you the lines around the track, it really helps. You'd be surprised, most people at trackdays are really cool and always willing to offer advice. Also, people at trackdays usually know wtf they're talking about. Another option is to sign up for a trackday that is specifically a school day. It usually costs a little more but you will have a dedicated instructor...and you will learn A LOT.

Don't worry about driving fast. Everybody wants you to go at your own pace anyway...and there is usually a passing rule so you don't have to worry about going 2 wide into a turn etc.

Anyway, good luck finishing your car...crazy looking project you have there.

Billy
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Old 06-12-2006, 02:19 PM   #76
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This car won't be ready for trackdays until atleast late next summer. The front suspension is really crappy right now. I did the rear first so I could atleast hit up the 1/4 mile this year. Although now it looks like I may not get to do that because of the deer. The front bushings on the TC rods are really bad and the front brakes and tires are laughably small compared to the rears. Balljoints are shot and so are the bearings. Basically, the front end is a hole winters worth of work.

And once it is done Mid-america is way too far until I get a good tow setup. My truck could do it but it wouldn't be the best for it. So for a couple years I'll be sticking to Road America and Blackhawk.
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Old 06-13-2006, 05:05 AM   #77
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So for a couple years I'll be sticking to Road America and Blackhawk.
Poor you You've got some badass tracks around your area.

I'll be taking a roadtrip in my S13 to Road America. I've always wanted to go there....maybe I'll have a chance in August.

I always drive my S13 to trackdays....the best part is showing up and passing those guys that got trailered in
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Old 06-13-2006, 08:30 AM   #78
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I always drive my S13 to trackdays....the best part is showing up and passing those guys that got trailered in

hey hey hey...nothing wrong with being trailer slut to the track...we just just drive harder
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Old 06-13-2006, 02:50 PM   #79
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The car could take the trip there but I couldn't. An hour + of straightpiped exhaust at a constant tone and volume on the highway causes serious insanity. Plus I probably would get better towing mileage than I would if I just drove the car. LOL

I'd definitely be scarred to go full 9/10th's at RA. I plan on working up to it. That place is so fast. You need supreme confidence in your car to brake it down from mid to high triple digits before turn one. Front straight is roughly 9/10ths of a mile.

Do you guys know of Blackhawk? I thought it was only locally known. Much slower and less demanding track of novice drivers like myself.
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Old 06-23-2006, 05:04 PM   #80
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BODY ROLL!!!


starting to run away.....






trying to catch the C5






good thing i flared the fenders 2 days before the event



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Old 06-23-2006, 06:23 PM   #81
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awesome pics bro. Nice to see people that really race wheel to wheel. Whats your brake setup? Do you find brake fade on track days with only street tires(azenis....assuming thats whats in the pictures)?
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Old 06-23-2006, 06:36 PM   #82
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awesome pics bro. Nice to see people that really race wheel to wheel. Whats your brake setup? Do you find brake fade on track days with only street tires(azenis....assuming thats whats in the pictures)?

these are track days HPDE style, drivers education type things, not true racing....yet .

my brakes are Brembo Blank rotors, SS lines, 300zx 30mm Alum. calipers, Super Blue bake fluid, and Hawk HP+ Pads. Never had brake fade before, the pads are made for track events, very agressive when hot and the super blue fluid has a rediculou high boiling point. Tires are falken Azenis in the 3rd and 5th photos others are Hoosier S04's on RX-7 FD wheels in the others. The brakes were more than enough for the Azneis, btu with the hoosiers in the future i will need to go with something a bit more agressive like a 13-14" rotor and 4 pot calipers up front....or 13" rotor with 6 pot calipers up front.
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Old 06-23-2006, 07:02 PM   #83
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Quote:
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these are track days HPDE style, drivers education type things, not true racing....yet .

my brakes are Brembo Blank rotors, SS lines, 300zx 30mm Alum. calipers, Super Blue bake fluid, and Hawk HP+ Pads. Never had brake fade before, the pads are made for track events, very agressive when hot and the super blue fluid has a rediculou high boiling point. Tires are falken Azenis in the 3rd and 5th photos others are Hoosier S04's on RX-7 FD wheels in the others. The brakes were more than enough for the Azneis, btu with the hoosiers in the future i will need to go with something a bit more agressive like a 13-14" rotor and 4 pot calipers up front....or 13" rotor with 6 pot calipers up front.

With a 14" rotor you may need an 18" wheel. With the 13" rotor, you will need a 17" usually. Ive seen one guy run 94Cobra brakes (13" rotor) under a 16" CCW classic wheel. But that wheel has a wierd drop center and unique offset that just barely clears the brakes. I run the EVO/STI set up and run a 17" wheel. I haven't experienced any brake fade at all (although all my friends get fade with q45/300zx brakes) with only azenis.
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Old 06-24-2006, 12:39 AM   #84
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Lookin good whiteglx.

What alignment specs were you running at this event? Also, how does the cage feel on the track compared to before without it?
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Old 06-24-2006, 08:47 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nlzmo400r
With a 14" rotor you may need an 18" wheel. With the 13" rotor, you will need a 17" usually. Ive seen one guy run 94Cobra brakes (13" rotor) under a 16" CCW classic wheel. But that wheel has a wierd drop center and unique offset that just barely clears the brakes. I run the EVO/STI set up and run a 17" wheel. I haven't experienced any brake fade at all (although all my friends get fade with q45/300zx brakes) with only azenis.
i plan to run 17x10 with 275 series tires up front, and 17x11 out back with 295 series tires. And at that poitn ill do the brakes as well. a 14" rotor could fit with the proper offsets and such to clear the caliper, we will see, its a long ways off whe ni get to that upgrade point. I have never had brake fade with my azenis, what pads and brake fluid were your friedns running, itll make all the difference in the world.


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Lookin good whiteglx.

What alignment specs were you running at this event? Also, how does the cage feel on the track compared to before without it?
thanks, rears has about 1 deg neg camber, 0 toe. Front has almost no camber adjustment and also 0 toe. And toe in or out will destroy these tires im running. Whe ni get new suspension stuff next season ill run abour 2 deg camber all around and 0 toe and factory caster.
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Old 06-24-2006, 05:35 PM   #86
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i plan to run 17x10 with 275 series tires up front, and 17x11 out back with 295 series tires. And at that poitn ill do the brakes as well. a 14" rotor could fit with the proper offsets and such to clear the caliper, we will see, its a long ways off whe ni get to that upgrade point. I have never had brake fade with my azenis, what pads and brake fluid were your friedns running, itll make all the difference in the world.




thanks, rears has about 1 deg neg camber, 0 toe. Front has almost no camber adjustment and also 0 toe. And toe in or out will destroy these tires im running. Whe ni get new suspension stuff next season ill run abour 2 deg camber all around and 0 toe and factory caster.

My friends are idiots and run on napa ceramics. I use ferodo ds2500's.
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Old 06-24-2006, 09:41 PM   #87
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Quote:
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My friends are idiots and run on napa ceramics. I use ferodo ds2500's.

i understand where they get brake fade from now.....if you set it up right, you will never have a worry in the world wheather your car is going to stop or not....
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Old 06-25-2006, 03:39 PM   #88
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well one of them uses a q45 setup up front and stock out rear. He's still on street tires (rs2s) and is ka-t (right at 250whp). His 235/40 hankooks are too small out back to hold down power for exiting corners as it is. But his real problem is braking. He uses crossrdrilled rotors, however he cannot find a performance brake pad for the q45 calipers. The wheels he runs (17x8.5 work vs-xx) barely clears his q45 setup, so he can't change to the z32 caliper for better pad choice.
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Old 06-25-2006, 04:37 PM   #89
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235 hankook's cant hold 250whp....maybe the throttle modulation needs to be worked on, cause i nmade my 215 azenis work with 260whp, full throttle they would kick, but i just made them work, hankook's are sticky if they are r-comps.
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Old 06-25-2006, 06:02 PM   #90
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