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Old 09-22-2017, 11:53 AM   #21361
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Originally Posted by tharocket View Post
I am in the beginning of my red top sr20 swap and I’m wondering about getting an ac condensor for my car. I know it’s cliché but this is gonna be my daily until I find an s14 later down the road. I have checked Nissan USA and the condensor shave been discontinued. I need help sourcing one or will one off another Nissan or would the s14 honestly work. My shell has a recover drier and came with the lines but no condensor and misc parts
You should be able to buy a rebuilt condenser from rockauto. Then get a Codyace adapter to bolt it up to the red top bracket/pulley.

I also see ac components in the marketplace from time to time as people build racecars.
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Old 09-25-2017, 01:54 PM   #21362
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Hello, I am finishing up my s13 sr20. Before putting the exhaust side on I noticed a tube leading into the bottom of the motor. After some research I figured this is the crankcase breather. Mine is super loose and I can pull it out with my hand. How do I secure this so it doesn't wiggle out with engine vibration? Also do I run hose from that to the right side of the T on the valve cover?
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Old 09-25-2017, 03:31 PM   #21363
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Originally Posted by averyglass View Post
Hello, I am finishing up my s13 sr20. Before putting the exhaust side on I noticed a tube leading into the bottom of the motor. After some research I figured this is the crankcase breather. Mine is super loose and I can pull it out with my hand. How do I secure this so it doesn't wiggle out with engine vibration? Also do I run hose from that to the right side of the T on the valve cover?
there is usually a small black metal container that goes between the T on the valve cover and the inlet to the block, its a factory catch can (in the S14/S15 notchtop SRs, this was integrated into the valve cover itself). if you cant located the factory catch can for the S13, just route the hose to the block and youll be fine.

if you need to secure it, you can always use super glue (and im not joking). being that its a perfect surface to a perfect surface, it will be a damn near permanent bond. or you can use a tiny bit of JB weld around the mouth of the hole to secure the pipe in place.... OR you can use urethane for windshields (this will hold up extremely well to the heat).
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Old 09-25-2017, 03:51 PM   #21364
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Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13 View Post
there is usually a small black metal container that goes between the T on the valve cover and the inlet to the block, its a factory catch can (in the S14/S15 notchtop SRs, this was integrated into the valve cover itself). if you cant located the factory catch can for the S13, just route the hose to the block and youll be fine.

if you need to secure it, you can always use super glue (and im not joking). being that its a perfect surface to a perfect surface, it will be a damn near permanent bond. or you can use a tiny bit of JB weld around the mouth of the hole to secure the pipe in place.... OR you can use urethane for windshields (this will hold up extremely well to the heat).
I appreciate that. Ill look into my options on securing the crankcase breather. JB weld is what I was thinking first. Second question: The right side of the T has been plugged by the previous owner. But I saw that the Crankcase breather was just kinda hanging there. Any reason for that? Do you think he had that breather venting to atmosphere? Or was it some kind of catch can setup.

Edit:
Also do you have any opinion on running the PCV to the catch can or somewhere on the intake manifold.

Last edited by averyglass; 09-25-2017 at 04:03 PM.. Reason: Additional question
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:57 PM   #21365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by averyglass View Post
I appreciate that. Ill look into my options on securing the crankcase breather. JB weld is what I was thinking first. Second question: The right side of the T has been plugged by the previous owner. But I saw that the Crankcase breather was just kinda hanging there. Any reason for that? Do you think he had that breather venting to atmosphere? Or was it some kind of catch can setup.

Edit:
Also do you have any opinion on running the PCV to the catch can or somewhere on the intake manifold.
There is a huge thread regarding PCV and Catch Can setups. I suggest giving it a read through.
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Old 09-25-2017, 09:04 PM   #21366
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My corolla's bolt pattern is 4x100, and im picking up a set of wheels that ate 4x98. I've heard of people using wobble bolts to fit wheels with a mm or two difference in bolt pattern. Can this be done and is it any less safe? Or should i just have the holes redrilled?
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Old 09-26-2017, 04:38 AM   #21367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by averyglass View Post
Hello, I am finishing up my s13 sr20. Before putting the exhaust side on I noticed a tube leading into the bottom of the motor. After some research I figured this is the crankcase breather. Mine is super loose and I can pull it out with my hand. How do I secure this so it doesn't wiggle out with engine vibration? Also do I run hose from that to the right side of the T on the valve cover?
You go the technical parts down, now for the JB weld, Super Glue myth bust.
Don't fuck with it. Use copper Permatex. The shit is made for anything from valve cover gasket to exhaust joints. It works. That other stuff? Super glue is for the house, and JB weld, well, many have used it on many things only to see it fail except for one place...bedding a rifle scope rail to the receiver of a scoped rifle.
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:36 AM   #21368
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My corolla's bolt pattern is 4x100, and im picking up a set of wheels that ate 4x98. I've heard of people using wobble bolts to fit wheels with a mm or two difference in bolt pattern. Can this be done and is it any less safe? Or should i just have the holes redrilled?
With 1mm on each side, wobbles should be fine, assuming you can find the correct size/pitch for your application.

But you must must must MUST get hubcentric rings to ensure your wheel's centerbore is exactly centered on your car's hub.

Normal acorn studs/bolts can get away without hubcentric rings because the lugs center the wheel practically dead-on. But with wobbles, the lugs can no longer center the wheel. It has to be centered via the hub.
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Old 09-26-2017, 11:44 AM   #21369
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Anyone on here can chime in on the quality of a super doof aero kit ? I've heard hit or miss things about the fitment being spot on to being somewhat off


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Old 09-26-2017, 08:22 PM   #21370
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Aiv (pair) delete

i recently removed the whole aiv system off my 91 240sx super hicas and it seems to have lost top end power. i made sure to plug the two small vacuum hoses off the bottom, plugged the pipe that came off the manifold, and plugged off the top that goes to the air filter. it seems like it takes it forever to start building rpm after about 4k i’m not sure what could cause this and i really don’t wanna put the system back on because it takes up so much space please help
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Old 09-26-2017, 10:23 PM   #21371
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I have an exhaust leak on cylinder 3 of the turbo manifold on my ka-t. I'm currently running the ISR MLS gasket, it's on it's 2nd or 3rd use. My question is should I go with another MLS(would probably go with a Cometic this time) or should I get the Mr Gasket copper gasket? I'm currently leaning towards the copper
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Old 09-26-2017, 10:39 PM   #21372
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Stock exhaust on 1990 KA, what size gasket do I need for the flange in front of the cat?
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Old 09-26-2017, 11:51 PM   #21373
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I have an exhaust leak on cylinder 3 of the turbo manifold on my ka-t. I'm currently running the ISR MLS gasket, it's on it's 2nd or 3rd use. My question is should I go with another MLS(would probably go with a Cometic this time) or should I get the Mr Gasket copper gasket? I'm currently leaning towards the copper
For manifold to head I prefer the oem style carbon type gaskets myself. They're cheap and seem to seal better. But also one time use.
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Old 09-27-2017, 12:12 PM   #21374
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Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop View Post
With 1mm on each side, wobbles should be fine, assuming you can find the correct size/pitch for your application.

But you must must must MUST get hubcentric rings to ensure your wheel's centerbore is exactly centered on your car's hub.

Normal acorn studs/bolts can get away without hubcentric rings because the lugs center the wheel practically dead-on. But with wobbles, the lugs can no longer center the wheel. It has to be centered via the hub.
Thanks. Ill be sure to do that. Im picking up a set of Western baskets super cheap and I was trying to decide if its worth the effort to use them or just clean them up and sell them for different wheels.
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:55 PM   #21375
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KA 240sx s13

Hey this is a dumb question but I found someone near me selling brand new isr blast pipes for an s14, I have an s13, will it fit properly does anyone know? I couldn't find anything about this, has anyone put the s14 exhuast on an s13 without a problem?
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Old 09-28-2017, 10:27 AM   #21376
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Hello this is probably a really dumb question but I can't find the answer. Are the S13 Ka sohc and S13 dohc OEM air box ( or air box cleaner ) the same ? Will a S13 DOHC fit a SOHC intake ?
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:56 AM   #21377
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Hey this is a dumb question but I found someone near me selling brand new isr blast pipes for an s14, I have an s13, will it fit properly does anyone know? I couldn't find anything about this, has anyone put the s14 exhuast on an s13 without a problem?


The hangars are going to be off and misalign the tips or won't be possible to hang unless you ghetto rig some clamps/rope/zip ties or whatever to get it to " work ".


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Old 09-28-2017, 01:13 PM   #21378
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Help anyone know where I could buy these ( or the name and size ? ) two of the three got strip

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Old 09-28-2017, 02:05 PM   #21379
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Help anyone know where I could buy these ( or the name and size ? ) two of the three got strip

Those are called a brake line fitting, M10 x1.00 sized. To replace, you have to cut off the flare on the end of the tube, slide on new fitting, and put a new inverted flare on the end of the tube.

Probably easier to reattach the lines using vice grip pliers and hope you never have to touch it again.
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:18 PM   #21380
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Those are called a brake line fitting, M10 x1.00 sized. To replace, you have to cut off the flare on the end of the tube, slide on new fitting, and put a new inverted flare on the end of the tube.

Probably easier to reattach the lines using vice grip pliers and hope you never have to touch it again.
Thank you ! ill see what I could rig up tomorrow. Maybe I'll go with the with the easier one lol
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:11 PM   #21381
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So I know (or think I know) I busted a bearing in my trans. Dropped the engine and trans (sr20det, standard nissan 5 speed) to check it all out but ran out of time and wont be able to take a closer look for another couple days. Im fairly certain its my input shaft bearing (makes a knocking noise with engine running and clutch engaged, push the clutch in the knock goes away), but im open to experienced suggestions as to what else it could be. My main question is how would i be able to tell if the bearing is bad? will it just move around on the shaft and have more play than its supposed to or is there another visual indicator? Just dont want to replace it and reinstall the engine and trans to discover I didnt fix it when I fire it up..
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:12 PM   #21382
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So I know (or think I know) I busted a bearing in my trans. Dropped the engine and trans (sr20det, standard nissan 5 speed) to check it all out but ran out of time and wont be able to take a closer look for another couple days. Im fairly certain its my input shaft bearing (makes a knocking noise with engine running and clutch engaged, push the clutch in the knock goes away), but im open to experienced suggestions as to what else it could be. My main question is how would i be able to tell if the bearing is bad? will it just move around on the shaft and have more play than its supposed to or is there another visual indicator? Just dont want to replace it and reinstall the engine and trans to discover I didnt fix it when I fire it up..

The biggest problem is that you don't have any audio on your issues. That would help.

Have you googled/youtube'd/etc a bad throw-out bearing sound to see if it coincides with your sound?
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:29 PM   #21383
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The biggest problem is that you don't have any audio on your issues. That would help.

Have you googled/youtube'd/etc a bad throw-out bearing sound to see if it coincides with your sound?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCkk-hgNI2E sounds very similar to this, he says he concluded TOB but ive seen just as many people diagnose the noise to the input shaft bearing.
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Old 10-03-2017, 09:58 AM   #21384
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Thank you ! ill see what I could rig up tomorrow. Maybe I'll go with the with the easier one lol
If you do not have a flare tool, start them by hand and run them in. Use vise grips then to tighten em up.

Ghetto? Sure. 100% correct? No.
But it's not going to effect how it works and saves you a ton of time.


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So I know (or think I know) I busted a bearing in my trans. Dropped the engine and trans (sr20det, standard nissan 5 speed) to check it all out but ran out of time and wont be able to take a closer look for another couple days. Im fairly certain its my input shaft bearing (makes a knocking noise with engine running and clutch engaged, push the clutch in the knock goes away), but im open to experienced suggestions as to what else it could be. My main question is how would i be able to tell if the bearing is bad? will it just move around on the shaft and have more play than its supposed to or is there another visual indicator? Just dont want to replace it and reinstall the engine and trans to discover I didnt fix it when I fire it up..
Sounds like the input shaft bearings. By the time you take it all apart and fix it, you'll find a used trans cheaper. Thing is this is a COMMON noise in most transmissions anymore through years of abuse...
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Old 10-03-2017, 06:48 PM   #21385
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:41 PM   #21386
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Originally Posted by singlecamslam View Post
Are stock ka24de lifters hydraulic or solid?

Stock lifters are hydraulic.
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:46 PM   #21387
d9m13n
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Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Sounds like the input shaft bearings. By the time you take it all apart and fix it, you'll find a used trans cheaper. Thing is this is a COMMON noise in most transmissions anymore through years of abuse...
Had a bad feeling thats what it would be... Will it be immediately apparent if the bearings are shot? Ive got a suspicion once I break open the trans I wont have any idea what im looking at. Is rebuild kit worth it or just find another 5spd locally is my best bet?
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:51 PM   #21388
anti tyler
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Originally Posted by d9m13n View Post
Had a bad feeling thats what it would be... Will it be immediately apparent if the bearings are shot? Ive got a suspicion once I break open the trans I wont have any idea what im looking at. Is rebuild kit worth it or just find another 5spd locally is my best bet?

Nothing beats the experience of rebuilding your first transmission.

If you can find a replacement for under $300 ( good luck, got one for $250 almost 10 years ago. ) then go for it.

Otherwise, if someone is selling one personally for under $200 it probably is unknown condition, or beat to shit.

It varies greatly. If you want to invest the time and money, there are plenty of sources of information on how to rebuild a tranny.

In my opinion, it's well worth doing it yourself.
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:15 PM   #21389
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So I need a new passenger side axle. I recently replaced the drivers side, and at first got a new one from AZ and it instantly clicked. Went back and got the reman'd and all is well. Unfortunately no one has the reman'd passenger side. I've read that j30 axles can be used, and a reman'd passenger side j30 is available. I just wanted to verify before I ordered. I'm referring to the 3x2 bolt pattern. I know the earlier ones have the Rzeppa joint and are superior, but I'd have to find the 5x1 output shafts. I need a new axle as soon as I can get it
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:24 PM   #21390
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Is a junkyard trip out of the question? Stock axles are great. S13, S14, and 3x2 J30 should all be fair game. I've had terrible luck with auto parts store crap.
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