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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 01-26-2013, 08:06 PM   #1
BiGMerK215
 
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93 s13 Hatch no start, Bad ECU?

ok so I finally got back to putting my 240 back together after rebuilding the head, installing new clutch, steering, etc. freshened almost everything under the hood in a 6 month period.

car is fully reassembled correctly. First I had simple no crank no start issue. Checked fuses all good, jumped starter solenoid and still only got a click out of it. So i pulled starter it passed good on the bench test so I reinstalled and pulled the plugs so the motor would spin more freely. I now cranks as it should with the key but still struggling to start.

NOTE: Digital indash Clock is flashing and ACC relay (I believe) is continuously clicking. seems almost like a short or bad ground somewhere but ive added grounds in attempt to rule this out. something is definetly irregular here.

I remember I had the car outside for a wile with a cover on it but it blew off in the rain. Car is stripped down for paint (sunroof not installed). Thats why im considering the ecu replacement because nothing else seems to help.

I know mechanical timing is spot on and ignition timing should be near perfect.
Any advice on pin pointing my issue would be greatly appreciated. I hate to just throw parts at the car without knowing for sure.

Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:40 PM   #2
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check the fuse box under the dash. if you find any corrosion or melted connections, you will have to replace it.i have an 89 coupe that had all kinds of electrical problems. i ended up replacing the whole chassis harness. not an easy task, but it fixed 99% of the electrical problems, even the no first and overdrive auto transmission problem went away. good luck on yours.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:07 PM   #3
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didnt find any melted areas on any of the fuse boxes, ecu visibly looks ok, but i did find current draws on certain fuses about .6 mv. One draw was under the driver side dash a 10 amp fuse whish is for the heads up display aka clock also when I pulled this fuse it made that relay stop clicking. Also found another draw on the passenger side fuse box under the hood also 10 amp fuse, for bulb check, ECCS (think this means ecu), this wire runs back to the ignitions system.

Is there any type of basic ecu checks you can do to check for voltage
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:39 AM   #4
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ok did some more tests this is what I got....

NOTE: Heads up display/Accessory relay stops clicking when I pull the heads up display fuse (10amps). When the fuse is installed it has a .6mv draw.

NOTE 2: There is another .6mv draw from the fuse for ECCS/bulb check relay. Disconnecting the alternator voltage regulator gets rid of this draw and the car seems to want to start better.

NOTE 3: Both these circuits adventually make their way back to the ignition switch and sometimes I can pull the key out the ignition and dash lights will stay on.

SOOO....ignition switch? anyone care to verify so Im not just throwin parts at this thing.

Please Help!
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:08 PM   #5
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look at an ignition switch wiring diagram and then manually check for voltage on the back of the ignition switch. i believe the only wire that should have battery voltage without the key in should be the big white wire with a red stripe on it. if other wires have power to them, unplug the ignition key harness and do the same test on the ignition harness. if you have power on wires that should not with the ignition switch unplugged, youre gonna have to trace where the power is coming from, like a shorted relay or wires. good luck
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:51 PM   #6
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ok yea that sounds like a good idea. I went to the junkyard to get an ignition switch, someone already nabbed it, but I got all the relay boxes off the car just in case. I ordered the switch anyway just for the fact its acting retarded and should be replaced regardless. But ill take your advice as far as checking the circuits for it.
thanks for the help
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:13 PM   #7
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I had your problem once. Found out my harness shorted by my radiator, kept my car running when I took the key out.

First things first, ground your motor and make sure the ground on the back of your alternator is attached.

The way I found it was disconnecting my ignition switch plug and testing the wires to see where I was getting voltage. Turned out to be my big white alternator wire (should be the same problem as yours). So I knew the short was between my ignition switch and my battery. The harness that runs inside the drivers side fender (check that too). I cut that in half to determine if the short was either in the engine bay, or if it was underneath my dash in that mess of wires. Then soldered and shrink wrapped it back together, worked on the side that I needed to. This is how I find shorts. Pain in the ass, but it works.

Replace ignition switch first. Go from easiest to hardest.

Oh and for your ECU, just look and see if the light is on with key on/engine on. Does your fuel pump prime? If yes, then your ecu is working. If it still isn't started, start checking spark and fuel. Diagnose your ignition issue first.
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:01 PM   #8
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ok replaced igntition switch and she starts! but runs like ass then soon shuts off. No more relay clicking and current draws are gone but...the clock display in the dash is still flashing. how many wires should I have going to the alternator. Just the large red cable to the batt, the 2 for the connector voltage regulator, and that other single wire which is held in by a screw right?

I had my jumper cables grounded to my engine and chassis already doesnt seem to make a difference.

So any more suggetions Id be extra grateful thanks again!
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:11 PM   #9
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oh almost forgot the most important step, when I tested the ignition wires. Black and yellow wire has .3 mv current draw. thats with the connector unplugged...
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Old 08-22-2018, 02:48 PM   #10
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Reviving an old post!! I'm having the exact same issues , and damn near same voltage reading. my ecu gets power and fuel pump primes. but not getting a crank at the starter and my dash lights stay on once i turn the key to crank then back and pull the key out.Was wondering what your eventual fix was, or if anyone as some insight. Same issue but for my vh s3.
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