Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

I'm swapping to an S14 subframe soon and realised that I would feel really bad hacking up a brand new BRM exhaust. Hence the CXracing.

If needed I'll weld it up myself.

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Hangers are super easy to adjust. Bend as needed, heat works, use a clamp under by the pipe as a sink.
Also, I note, no one has thought about ISOLATORS. Isolators come in lengths of 1" to 4" so you can adjust how LOW, or how HIGH an exhaust system hangs if the hangers won't do that.
I went through my system, and checked each hanger, got new ones with the lengths I wanted, and BAM, system hangs and is free from vibration, and is oh so close to the diff to be as high as possible.

[nina.bird007]

Here only I think that Nissan has the most beautiful logo of all cars?

[Presto]

How long does Ka24e head gasket take roughly?

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Hangers are super easy to adjust. Bend as needed, heat works, use a clamp under by the pipe as a sink.
Also, I note, no one has thought about ISOLATORS. Isolators come in lengths of 1" to 4" so you can adjust how LOW, or how HIGH an exhaust system hangs if the hangers won't do that.
I went through my system, and checked each hanger, got new ones with the lengths I wanted, and BAM, system hangs and is free from vibration, and is oh so close to the diff to be as high as possible.

The issue couldn't be fixed with just hangers and isolators though.

I ended up fixing it using torches and a couple of ratchet straps. Rebent a couple of kinks. It's not perfect but 100 times better. It doesn't hit and I'm not worried about cracking the headers anymore (it was pulling on it like crazy).

I'm surprised the system doesn't have any kind of flex pipe though. That would have helped.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

ELI5: What's a "white bunny" clutch?

Its a heavy flywheel and a pretty decent clutch kit. You get what you pay for, the flywheel can be resurfaced easily, and it's about 25% to 30% less than other brands. BUT, the ACT flywheel is even lighter at 13 pounds and performs way better, like rev up is so much quicker

[willforster24]

Hey guys I’m doing an rb25det s1 swap in my s13 and wiring specialties is out of stock of the lower wiring harness. Does anyone have any tips for using the stock power harness off the rb to wire to the s13 or does anyone have a extra one?

[willforster24]

Hey guys I’m doing an rb25det s1 swap in my s13 and wiring specialties is out of stock of the lower wiring harness. Does anyone have any tips for using the stock power harness off the rb to wire to the s13 or does anyone have a extra one?

[e30gangsta]

Question

So I own a 1992 rhd silvia s13 which comes with 5 bolt rear axles/output shafts and a jdm vlsd diff. The vsld is toast and I have a spare US s13 differential that has the US 3x2 output stubs on it. I have a welded diff out of a us 240sx that has 3x2 output shafts that I would like to install.

Is it possible for me to install the us 240sx welded diff and use the jdm 5 bolt axle stubs with the 5 bolt axles?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by willforster24

Hey guys I’m doing an rb25det s1 swap in my s13 and wiring specialties is out of stock of the lower wiring harness. Does anyone have any tips for using the stock power harness off the rb to wire to the s13 or does anyone have a extra one?

Try Enjuku, Goonsquad, TF Works(Touge Factory), 240 Motoring, FRSports, or call and ask for Yuri at Wiring Specialties and ask how long it will take for that harness to be made.
Don't ratchet it up with all them blue and red pinchy tapey bois so it looks like ass.

[aymaeid]

After 6 months of sitting in a storage unit, I insured my stock '95 and filled the tank with fresh fuel. The car started immediately, idled well, and drove just fine... for about 500 feet, then died. This KA gave me 227k solid reliable miles and I refuse to give up on it. Since the timing was always slightly off, i decided a good first step would be to swap out the OEM distributor, cap, spark plugs and wires. After multiple failed cranks, my brand new spark plugs turned black. Car has a new fuel pump, fuel filter and ran absolutely fine until it suddenly died. I'm dumbfounded. Good strong crank. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Sleepy_Steve]

Originally Posted by aymaeid

After 6 months of sitting in a storage unit, I insured my stock '95 and filled the tank with fresh fuel. The car started immediately, idled well, and drove just fine... for about 500 feet, then died. This KA gave me 227k solid reliable miles and I refuse to give up on it. Since the timing was always slightly off, i decided a good first step would be to swap out the OEM distributor, cap, spark plugs and wires. After multiple failed cranks, my brand new spark plugs turned black. Car has a new fuel pump, fuel filter and ran absolutely fine until it suddenly died. I'm dumbfounded. Good strong crank. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Your engine's basic needs: Crank, Spark, Fuel, Compression, and Timing (of both fuel delivery and spark events)

• So... Does it crank? Sounds like yes.
  
• Does it have fuel? To check, take out a spark plug and crank. If you get a puff of fuel vapors out the spark plug hole then fuel is there.
  
• Fuel pressure is hard to say, but if it started earlier, you probably have fuel pressure. The question is if old shit in the tank clogged the fuel pump's pick up. Or something similar dealing with old gas / rust / other shit in the tank.
  
• Timing is more than ignition timing, but to check that you'll generally use a timing light. Down side is that it won't work till it's running, warmed up, with the TPS unplugged.
  
• Checking for spark is as simple as pulling a plug wire, putting a spare plug in it, resting it on the valve cover, and looking at it while cranking. Obviously if you see spark, you at least have it.
  
• Mechanical timing of the cams relative to the pistons / etc might not be 100% correct, but you'd have had to mess with it to change it from good, so that's not terribly likely.

TLDR: Because it ran for a bit and hasn't run since, I suspect you've got some old shit in the tank clogging the pickup, or gummed up fuel lines / fuel filter from whatever gas was sitting in it for so long.

[Presto]

Can you run Ka24e egr block off without tuning?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Presto

Can you run Ka24e egr block off without tuning?

A KA24DE requires no tune on EGR Delete. I used a Maxima EGR delete bolt from Quirk Nissan on my OBXR Header, and an Enjuku ISR delete plate kit on the block. I used copper Permatex on the bolt and so far, no leaks, and it runs fine

[Presto]

My car will only run if I spray carb cleaner into the throttle body other wise it will die, previous owner did egr block off, new air intake, z32 fuel filter. I did new injectors and recently did spark plugs but they look a little black already. Cleaned iacv. Car was idling at 800 but now it just wont run Wiring looks kinda like shit but it’s all connected . Coolant temp sensor wire rubber insulation is cracked but wire looks fine. Doesn’t run with unplugged maf. O2 sensor looks fried but I don’t know if it would cause it to be this bad. I will check tps.
What should I check now?

Edit: I checked tps and I’m not super sure if I did it right but it was reading around 9 and then got stuck at 11 and half and didn’t go further when I opened throttle so I ordered I New tps



Ka24e SOHC

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Car taking forever to warm up, temp actually drops at idle or if I turn on the heater. Is that a stuck open thermostat?

Turns out this was a head gasket failing. Drove it really hard thinking there was an air bubble, started sounding funny, white smoke from exhaust. Pulled spark plugs, #3 is full of coolant now.

I'm thinking Tomei 1.0 mm head gasket with ARP head studs. Just trying to avoid too many "while you're in there" mods. Thinking the new Tomei 258 Poncams and a Greddy oil pan. Should be good for a while after that.

[Presto]

Cars not running it dies instantly I figured out it runs when spraying carb cleaner into throttle body so checking fuel lines I have one question what the hell is this?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

... Just trying to avoid too many "while you're in there" mods...

Boiii, you done cursed yourself! You already thought of how many while you're in there mods. I had my head off, and thought, hey, Dremel tool, sand and polish kit, polish the bowls, yeah, good idea...Oh while you are at seals, may as well grab this and that, the head IS off ya know

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Presto

Cars not running it dies instantly I figured out it runs when spraying carb cleaner into throttle body so checking fuel lines I have one question what the hell is this?
../snip

That is the clutch "dampener" loop. A lot of people delete it and connect the short soft line to the slave cylinder directly to the hard line coming from the clutch master cylinder.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Boiii, you done cursed yourself! You already thought of how many while you're in there mods. I had my head off, and thought, hey, Dremel tool, sand and polish kit, polish the bowls, yeah, good idea...Oh while you are at seals, may as well grab this and that, the head IS off ya know

I had done a gasket refresh when I first got the engine, before swapping it. After doing some additional research, I'm thinking reusing the stock head studs with a new OEM gasket wasn't the best idea at the time. It lasted 5 years though.

[Presto]

I looked at the fuel pump and I haven’t even touched anything this is how it was so I’m going to find out what this black wire is and hopefully it helps

I’m so sorry I don’t know how to shrink this fuckin picture

[bigbadhr]

Swapped a 2002 s15 sr20det into my buds s14. I have the wastegate connected to the intake manifold for now, i know this isnt correct it isnt a MAP car. When car hits full boost or full throttle it cuts. I was thinking of tapping into the IC piping behind the MAF for the wastegate. Would this be the proper place to tap into? I also think this is the reason for the cutoff...

Sorry for the noob question, but i want to be sure before i start drilling.

[Presto]

I l well I didn’t mean to post this

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by bigbadhr

Swapped a 2002 s15 sr20det into my buds s14. I have the wastegate connected to the intake manifold for now, i know this isnt correct it isnt a MAP car. When car hits full boost or full throttle it cuts. I was thinking of tapping into the IC piping behind the MAF for the wastegate. Would this be the proper place to tap into? I also think this is the reason for the cutoff...

Sorry for the noob question, but i want to be sure before i start drilling.

Trying to follow what you're asking here, but piping between the MAF and turbo would be vacuum and the wastegate would never open.

Having the wastegate connected to the manifold isn't the best way, but it isn't wrong either. You should feed the wastegate from the small line off the throttle, or tap the piping directly after the turbo, similar to the stock set up.

Here's a post I replied to with how to connect up the vacuum lines: https://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=...4&postcount=25

The bigger question, is what do you mean by "it cuts"?

[newkid99]

Im having the same issue right now, or the same question? I think?
https://images.app.goo.gl/3o6iMoyUNKTKeCDK6
So this is how i plan to run the vacuum lines for my ka-t. Is it okay to source the vacuum line running to my bov from a location after to bov? Specifically on my throtlle body?

[newkid99]

https://images.app.goo.gl/3o6iMoyUNKTKeCDK6
Trying to get the image to show as a hyper link but no luck, i apologize.

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by bigbadhr

Swapped a 2002 s15 sr20det into my buds s14. I have the wastegate connected to the intake manifold for now, i know this isnt correct it isnt a MAP car. When car hits full boost or full throttle it cuts. I was thinking of tapping into the IC piping behind the MAF for the wastegate. Would this be the proper place to tap into? I also think this is the reason for the cutoff...



Sorry for the noob question, but i want to be sure before i start drilling.

The pipe between the maf and turbo is the turbo inlet, meaning air is going into it to be compressed. Also, the S15 turbo has tap for the wastegate directly on the compressor outlet, why would you move it?

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[newkid99]

Originally Posted by mr.nismo.

The pipe between the maf and turbo is the turbo inlet, meaning air is going into it to be compressed. Also, the S15 turbo has tap for the wastegate directly on the compressor outlet, why would you move it?

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Sorry different guy, different problem from op, im building a ka-t and don't have a bung on my turbo or the elbow after.

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by newkid99

Sorry different guy, different problem from op, im building a ka-t and don't have a bung on my turbo or the elbow after.

You need to weld a 1/8 npt bung on your IC between turbo and throttle body. The closer to the turbo, the better. You're going to have to do a few things since the KA wasn't factory turbo. You'll need to figure out oil/coolant feeds for the turbo, and weld a drain tube on your oil pan, among other things. KA-T.org is a good resource to use.

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[newkid99]

Originally Posted by mr.nismo.

You need to weld a 1/8 npt bung on your IC between turbo and throttle body. The closer to the turbo, the better. You're going to have to do a few things since the KA wasn't factory turbo. You'll need to figure out oil/coolant feeds for the turbo, and weld a drain tube on your oil pan, among other things. KA-T.org is a good resource to use.

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Yes i already have my coolant and oil lines ran, oil pan tapped, all that good stuff im currently doing wiring for ms3 from diy autotune and finishing up my intercooler piping. Im going to drill and tap into the elbow after turbo, rather than tapping into the turbo itself. And yes i am a member on ka-t.org and they have been a big help.
But is the picture i posted an appropriate way to run my vac lines?

[Drew_kar]

Hey guys.
I am in the process of swapping my USDM Kouki front bumper to the J-spec bumper cover. My car is a 97 MY. I ordered the OEM j-spec amber signals. Is this plug and play, or will I have to do some wiring? I have seen threads on this topic but its usually Zenki to Kouki bumper swaps. Let me know if you guys know anything on this or could lead me to a thread on this topic. Thanks!

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by newkid99

Yes i already have my coolant and oil lines ran, oil pan tapped, all that good stuff im currently doing wiring for ms3 from diy autotune and finishing up my intercooler piping. Im going to drill and tap into the elbow after turbo, rather than tapping into the turbo itself. And yes i am a member on ka-t.org and they have been a big help.

But is the picture i posted an appropriate way to run my vac lines?

I'd say yes, only if you have a BOV and wastegate with 2 vacuum lines.