first SR need some helpful info

[TwistnItSideways]

Hello guys/gals

I know this is probably a beaten subject and believe me i've done the research.

I bought an Sr a couple weeks ago and so far what I'm missing is turbo and manifold as well as the lines.

It has all new bearings with ARP head studs, Ive replaced the coolant temp with a ka24de sensor and an the thermostat as well.

I am trying to figure out what else I would need to get this swap going and to find the correct mods for a reliable motor.

So if you guys see anything im missing please let me know.

Also what would be some recommended mods to install as for reliability? I have heard rocker arm stoppers are a hit and miss on some forums.

Thank you guys in advance and now for the pictures.



















The day I picked up hated that he had it on the ground like this

[indomiekid1]

whats the history of the motor?
do you plan on tearing down and replacing all the gaskets?
power goals?
what will you be doing with the car? track/street, a bit of both?

[TwistnItSideways]

Originally Posted by indomiekid1

whats the history of the motor?
do you plan on tearing down and replacing all the gaskets?
power goals?
what will you be doing with the car? track/street, a bit of both?

motor came from coupeduprb here on the forums as far as what he told me all the gaskets have already been replaced, He rebuilt the bottom end.

Mainly stock for now unless I want to throw a T28 on it.

It'll be a daily driver for a couple months till I get another DD but thats another topic all in itself

[indomiekid1]

well, if you trust him, then i'd just get a stock t25, and slap it on, drop the motor in and drive it.

if it were me, i'd tear it apart just to double check everything since the motor is out already.

[5280VertDET]

Buy some oil/water lines, heater hoses, exhaust gaskets, cast manifold, t25 (or upgrade now w/injectors, MAF & ECU), intercooler kit, downpipe, intake piping and BOV (also an exhaust and wiring harness if you need).

Plus what ever trans stuff you need.

EDIT: Looks like its missing the Valve cover T for the crank case vent ( you're gonna want that... )

Originally Posted by indomiekid1

well, if you trust him, then i'd just get a stock t25, and slap it on, drop the motor in and drive it.

if it were me, i'd tear it apart just to double check everything since the motor is out already.

I would only do this if you ABSOLUTELY know what you're doing, otherwise trust him or pay someone to double check it.

[cotbu]

Real talk or shoot the shit?
Real talk: set your engine to TDC, remove valve cover look around for missing, warn or broken stuff, etc You are currently in a position to get screwed, I'm just saying. You're probably a month or more away from install and you will be well out of good faith warranty. Remove the oil pan have a look inside. perform a leak down test. Do a rod bearing test. These are test for peace of mind. Open up the ecu look inside, daughter boards, burnt traces and smells. If you have a way to test the harness and sensors i would. Also try to stay in contact with the seller he might have forgotten to mention something. All of this can be skipped if you truly trust the seller, but do we truly trust anyone? This could get lengthy, so just research and use the forum you should be good to go.

Sent from my Highly Tuned Galaxy S3.4!!!

[Croustibat]

Leave rocker arm stoppers out of your engine. I can't think of anything positive about them.

It wont prevent your engine from throwing a rocker off. But it WILL prevent the rocker from moving out of the moving parts way. Meaning the second the stopper do its job at preventing a rocker from flying is also the second it kills the camshaft, valves, and pistons.

I suggest you stay away from wanabees recommending its use.

[Mikester]

If the bottom end was rebuilt, what happened to the parts you're missing?

If it were me, I'd take this opportunity to have the motor stripped, measured and re-rebuilt with a fresh rebuild kit and whatever else they say you will need. Nothing worse than the wonderful feeling of getting a motor in... only to watch it go boom halfway up the street.

Did you see the new bearings or ARP studs or fresh OEM rebuild kit go in? Like stated above- plenty of tests you can do... and perfect time to look at it in-depth before dropping it in.

[TwistnItSideways]

thanks to all the replied. when I bought the motor the dude made me read through is build thread and it shows what he did.
Also where would I be able to find the T connection?

Edit: The reason that he didn't give me a full swap was because he wanted to sell the other stuff that was on it.
I picked the motor up for 1500$ and that came with trans,ecu,wiring harness, some hoses new clutch, etc.

[quickdiversion]

Personally, while it is out of the car, I would pull the front timing cover, which doubles as the oil pump and check the guides. If you have the extra money, replace the oil pump. this way you know it is working well and your front main seal is also new. With that being said, pull the tranny and replace the rear main seal.

Peace of mind.

[TwistnItSideways]

On the T fitting would I be able to run a L fitting with the end towards the oem oil separator with a hose connecing the two? Ive seen a few run em like that and some with a filter on the other side.

[indomiekid1]

you can, i ran mine like stock.
actually my whole swap, i did an oem rebuild.
just take your time.

[bataangpinoy]

stop.
stop.
stop.


what the heck is going on with your oil pick up tube? is that thing smashed shut?

when sit the engine on its oil pan, you run the risk of smashing the pump pick up since the mouth of the pick up tube is so close to the bottom of them pan (like 2mm).

if it wasnt smashed, it is now!!

[TwistnItSideways]

Yea thats exactly why I hated it sitting on the pan wheb I got there im checking the pickup now