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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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02-09-2014, 09:57 AM | #1 |
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Tie Rods keep BREAKING!!! HELP
so yesterday i went to the track and ended up breaking 3 tie rods
whenever i get to full lock, it'll make a really bad rubbing noise then my steering wheel starts feeling really weird. turns out it was a bent tie rod. i went to autozone to buy a new tie rod, then went full lock again and they broke again why do they keep breaking!?! |
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02-09-2014, 10:12 AM | #4 |
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Please god tell me you aren't using s13 tie rods???
And yeah without relocating the rack forwards or correcting the geometry of the spindle to compensate for lowering the car it's very common for rods to bend or snap. |
02-09-2014, 09:22 PM | #5 |
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iv bent at least 5 stock tie rods just from banging full lock. now if its rubbing the wheels going to bind up. you need some nice tiens. or if your car is super low, get the ones with the extended joint.
my wheel kept binding up when I went drifting kept hitting bumps and was rubbing. I bent the fuck out of a tien outter and inner. |
02-13-2014, 09:31 AM | #8 |
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how do we know the OP has a s13? i didn't see where he posted saying this is on a s13..lol
i just went drifting for the first time and my car is a s14 and i was wondering about the "BANG" that happens when i hit full lock. i have not bent anything or damaged anything but i was wondering what the bang sound was? it is normal for this noise to happen when the car auto steers to full lock? is it hitting the stoppers on the LCA?
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02-13-2014, 10:31 AM | #9 |
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That bang your referring too sounds like your hitting the frame rail.
cut/weld or hammer down that lip on the frame rail.
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02-13-2014, 11:14 AM | #13 |
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Basically agree with what everyone is saying here, compensation for bump steer, upgrade to S14 TRE, etc..
If you're planning buying economical but high quality, I strongly recommend MOOG TRE's. They are beefier than OEM since it's designed for the aftermarket (non of those parts within Warranty product life mentality like almost all of OEM's have - can't blame em but). They have an extensive Tech/R&D center in St. Louis that does metallurgical analysis on what type of steel is best in strength, as well as bend vs. snapping simulation of the arm and the stud itself. They do a lot more than that but.. All of their ball studs are US made in Illinois, with the US steel, if that matters to you. It also has gusher bearings for more lubrication. I had to upgrade my arms during one of the drift events last year at the track, had no choice but to use my buddy's S14 PBM ITR (chopped at the end) and MOOG TRE's - was skeptical at first since it's not "performance" part as all of us are used to but man I have no complaints. See pic for your reference of difference in design |
02-13-2014, 11:34 AM | #15 |
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i am using moog inners and outers (all s14 parts, my car is s14)
my wheels are 03 350z wheels... i do not think i am hitting the frame rail or else i would feel the tires scrubbing the frame and it would even possibly lock up. I have not heard or felt it. I thought the sound was it hitting the stoppers on the lca...idk yet
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02-13-2014, 04:36 PM | #16 |
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Moog outers are the shit.
I've had a set of the "oem style" (the ones on the left) and they fold or break at the part where it narrows down. The moog ones are beefy as fuck in that same area, no chance of folding or breaking. I use PBM inners (s14 spec) and have no issues. (Also have roll center corrected knuckles from fineline tuning, and PBM solid steering rack relocation bushings. ) |
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