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Old 05-19-2010, 04:59 AM   #1591
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i was about to edit my post.
im just running it for stock RB20 setup for now. 7 PSI stock but good up to 10-12 PSI


but i heard this BOV dont hold over 14 psi?
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:58 AM   #1592
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Despite being stronger/harder, do any aftermarket tie rod ends have more threads on the rack side for spacers?

Or are they the same as stock?
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:50 AM   #1593
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i was about to edit my post.
im just running it for stock RB20 setup for now. 7 PSI stock but good up to 10-12 PSI


but i heard this BOV dont hold over 14 psi?
If that's the case, your fine. You can also swap out for a Bosch BOV (~$30-40 at Advanced Auto). Search google for specs and install, very popular.
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:54 AM   #1594
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Despite being stronger/harder, do any aftermarket tie rod ends have more threads on the rack side for spacers?

Or are they the same as stock?
Yes/No

Check out Phase2Motortrend

There is a good selection of tie-rods with built in spacing, no need for washers and that crap.

I have Pike Peaks, not bad.
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:25 AM   #1595
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I think I read something about this before, but now I don't remember what the answer was - when I lower my car w/ my coilovers, I get a clunking sound coming from the front, drivers side, when going over bumps. When I raise it a bit, it disappears. Why?
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:28 AM   #1596
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^check the locking collars (unsure if i used the correct term)

Will the harbor freight valve spring compressor work with the valves springs in a KA motor?

it looks similar to:


reason why i ask is because; in the fsm, it shows a completely different type of valve spring compressor along with an adapter:


the head is already removed from the block, if that makes a difference.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:13 AM   #1597
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edit: nevermind
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Old 05-19-2010, 11:29 AM   #1598
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ka24de, 3in. piping with stock muffler. How does this sound? Anyone tried it?
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Old 05-19-2010, 11:41 AM   #1599
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ka24de, 3in. piping with stock muffler. How does this sound? Anyone tried it?
I just made a exhaust out of 2 3/8 straight through to stock muff. It sounds okay; I havenít driven the car yet, but will in a few days. Itís not exactly deep sounding. Itís quiet at idle though.
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:56 PM   #1600
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power steering/cooler question

ok so i made a p/s cooler. the one with blue fitting goes to the cooler to the can.
the other one with with polish fitting is the one i bought from rawbrokerage, the other end of it is suppose to go on where the blue fitting is and the other end is suppose to go to the pump. so the blue fitting is suppose to go to where the polished fitting is. but they got different thread size.



either way i still have to buy another fitting. but i want to know if it matters if i just dont switch it
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:06 PM   #1601
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What do these plug into?
It was a year ago when I pulled this thing apart.

The plugs covered in foam and you can't see go to the cigarette lighter, this is under the center console in a S13 btw.

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Old 05-19-2010, 06:20 PM   #1602
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isn't one of them the mirror switch? it's been a while since i've seen and S13 center console.
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:21 PM   #1603
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it's the auto seatbelt control unit.
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:22 PM   #1604
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^^i think it goes to the automatic seatbelt control unit thingy
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:52 PM   #1605
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^^i think it goes to the automatic seatbelt control unit thingy
That's the ticket, thanks!
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:45 AM   #1606
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question

I have a couple of quick questions.

I have some coil overs, but they are seized. What is the best method of unseizing them?

Also, while I was changing my water pump gasket, I lost the radiator cap. I know, but shit happens. I bought some caps from auto zone, but after driving a while, the coolant goes into the reservoir and doesn't go back down until the car has cooled down considerably. Biggest headache ever. So, I got the highest level psi auto zone sold, but I think the size of the gasket is incorrect. Basically, how do I get a working cap? BTW, I was told by the previous owner that it is not an OEM radiator.

One more question. I need to change my exhaust manifold gasket, but the sensor that goes into the engine is in the way, which to take off is blocked by the heat shield. Should I just cut the wire? and do I need the heat shield in my engine bay or can I go wihtout it?
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:17 AM   #1607
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How often do I need to change the rear differential fluid? Like oil change is like between 3000-4000 miles.
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:25 AM   #1608
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Stupid question, I know, but will an S15 turbo work with an RB20det? My turbo is blown and I have this S15 turbo on my shelf...
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:47 AM   #1609
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How often do I need to change the rear differential fluid? Like oil change is like between 3000-4000 miles.
Rule of thumb-

Engine 4,000 miles
Trans 60,000 miles
Diff 100,000 miles

Rad Hoses 5 years
Waterpump 100,000 miles
Timing belt 50-90,000 (very vehicle dependent)
Accessory Belts - Visually/5 years

Balljoints 10yrs/100,000
Bushing 10yrs/100,000
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:30 AM   #1610
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How often do I need to change the rear differential fluid? Like oil change is like between 3000-4000 miles.
For my daily, I change my diff fluid about once a year (15,000 miles). Same with the trans. Both are pretty darn simple to change.

If you are going to events, I would change it after every event or two.
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:06 AM   #1611
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They fit I have them on mine
aha that looks super nice

i checked it out and bolt pattern is 5x120, idk how that fits but apparently it does haha. is it a little loose cos i think the holes are significantly bigger than the studs

btw i'm pretty sure thatss the parking garage where the new-er kaiser hospital is in ontario lol am i right?
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:31 PM   #1612
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i have no power inside the car; seatbelts, head lamp, gauge cluster, stereo
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:18 PM   #1613
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My dashlights wont come on (cluster/ hvac). Ive already replaced the TCU and all the fuses are fine. What else would cause this?
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:40 AM   #1614
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How come every time I try to pull my key out i have to press that pin thing? How can I fix it? What do I need to purchase? Thanks for helping!
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:51 AM   #1615
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How come every time I try to pull my key out i have to press that pin thing? How can I fix it? What do I need to purchase? Thanks for helping!
That's there for a reason. It's factory Nissan. Everyone has it.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:51 AM   #1616
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haha, that's the key lock. it's oem on 240's dude. it's not a big deal.
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:20 AM   #1617
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iirc lack of post, you have to have a min of # of post to be able to give others trader ratings.
doh! Thank you sir.
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:06 AM   #1618
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Ok heres one...

Im swapping in an SR in a few months, and the rear main seal on my KA (my daily driver) has started to leak. I think its been leaking for a while, but has just recently started to make the clutch slip on very hot days. For the most part, the clutch is fine, i just have a bit of oil coming out between the block and trans. Until now, Ive always run synthetic oil. Would it be in my benefit to switch to conventional? I would assume conventional wouldnt leak as badly. I lose about a quart between oil changes. And theres no way im pulling the trans to fix it if ive got an SR sitting in my garage just waiting to go in.

So conventional or synthetic?
Is it worth trying one of those "Rear Main Seal Fix in a Bottle" things?
How long you think i've got before I need to borrow another daily, or swap it? aka How long until my clutch starts slipping to much to drive it?
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:56 PM   #1619
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How come every time I try to pull my key out i have to press that pin thing? How can I fix it? What do I need to purchase? Thanks for helping!

Is it possible to pull the key out without pressing that pin? It's kinda annoying. Thanks for helping again.
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:17 PM   #1620
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Ok heres one...

Im swapping in an SR in a few months, and the rear main seal on my KA (my daily driver) has started to leak. I think its been leaking for a while, but has just recently started to make the clutch slip on very hot days. For the most part, the clutch is fine, i just have a bit of oil coming out between the block and trans. Until now, Ive always run synthetic oil. Would it be in my benefit to switch to conventional? I would assume conventional wouldnt leak as badly. I lose about a quart between oil changes. And theres no way im pulling the trans to fix it if ive got an SR sitting in my garage just waiting to go in.

So conventional or synthetic?
Is it worth trying one of those "Rear Main Seal Fix in a Bottle" things?
How long you think i've got before I need to borrow another daily, or swap it? aka How long until my clutch starts slipping to much to drive it?
drop a quart of lucas oil stabilizer...that should thicken the living shit out of the oil and slow the leak as well as protect that ka a lil better
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