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Old 10-12-2018, 01:10 PM   #661
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They're WAY stronger than sr20 gears.
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Old 10-24-2018, 04:54 AM   #662
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Hi guys

Thanks for all the input and advice in this thread. Ended up going with a new 370Z, Mazworx bellhousing and crossmember, and Serial9 shifter for my S15.

Gearbox bolts up high with zero hammering or cutting of the chassis. Am stoked.









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Old 10-24-2018, 02:17 PM   #663
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Very nice! Great pics too!!!
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:49 PM   #664
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@gmr that is awesome!
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Old 11-18-2018, 05:32 PM   #665
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Thanks guys cheers.

Picked it up this weekend. First impressions:

- Serial 009 shifter is really good, very direct and engages well. It is very short. I've got a standard size shift knob and am going to get a longer one to extend the throw at my hand.
- The ratios of the CD009 box are great with 4.11 final for street driving. It's very punchy and gets up and goes. 100km/hr (about 60mph) the car sits at 2600rpm. This setup would be too short for the track where you'd be changing gears too often.
- The CD009 box is noisy. I bought a new 370Z box from Nissan and it chatters, grinds, gurgles lol. In fairness everything is solid mounted and I've got a twin plate clutch which makes as much noise. Reading 350z/370z forums they have the same issue once the dual mass flywheel is replaced. Their cars have a lot of insulation around the tunnel so I'm going to install some on my car too. In a track car it wouldn't be an issue, but it's a bit noisy for the street.
- I put new coilovers in the car at the same time, and with the ride height set I have about 80mm clearance from the ground. My car isn't low or sacked by any means. I'm going to make up a bash shield as the lip of the bellhousing could get caught.

All in all I'm very happy with the swap and would happily recommend the Mazworx and Serial009 setup.

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Old 11-25-2018, 10:30 PM   #666
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Quick question. I have a maxworx kit sr cd009. Which starter did you guys use? It seems like the bolts on the start is smaller than the bolts in the transmission.

Any help?
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Old 11-25-2018, 10:55 PM   #667
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Should be stock SR starter.
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Old 11-25-2018, 10:57 PM   #668
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Yeah you are right. I was threading it the wrong way. I should have thread it through the bell housing into the starter vs the other way. LOL.
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Old 12-05-2018, 11:59 AM   #669
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For the folks running the HR or JK40/41 tranny and Mazworx bell housing kit, where does the tranny adapter ring install?? About to upgrade from my early CD001 to a HR 2008 gearbox and will need to swap things over (and buy the ring from Mazworx)

Thanks
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:25 PM   #670
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How does the gearing work with the z33 trans? In my case, I have an ATS 1.5 way, with stock gearing. If I were to go with the z33 trans, would that affect anything on the rear end, or would I have to change anything to do with my gearing? Or just slap the trans in and go?
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:30 PM   #671
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I have the stock 4.08 gearing and I don’t like it at freeway speeds. I’m going to swap my gears over the the s15 3.692 for some better rpms at those speeds.
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:36 PM   #672
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I have the stock 4.08 gearing and I donít like it at freeway speeds. Iím going to swap my gears over the the s15 3.692 for some better rpms at those speeds.
What are your rpm at 60mph?
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:16 PM   #673
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Not sure cause speedo isn’t set up yet but I’m hitting about 3800 rpm at freeway speeds
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Old 01-01-2019, 12:11 AM   #674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedgod^s13 View Post
How does the gearing work with the z33 trans? In my case, I have an ATS 1.5 way, with stock gearing. If I were to go with the z33 trans, would that affect anything on the rear end, or would I have to change anything to do with my gearing? Or just slap the trans in and go?
The over-drive gear isn't much taller than the 5 speed. .79 on the Z33 vs .84 on s14. So don't expect low cruising rpm just because you have an extra gear. The difference is in the 2-3-4 gears.

Can plug the ratios into a gear speed calculator and see if you'll need to change up the final drive. Or drive it and make a decision later.
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Old 01-15-2019, 07:30 PM   #675
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Ok guys, I have the factory speedo working in the S14. I tried to use some of this info on mine but he is using a SGI-5c and I believe thatís just the older model as the newer model SCI-5e does not have dip switches and is all electronic options and adjustments. After playing with it some, Iíve got my settings that worked for me. Iím sure thereís a few ways to set it up but here is what I did. Intellitronix box setup just like his, to the 16,000ppm output. You do not need the VSS signal ground to have the speedo work. All you need is the Red/yel wire that feeds the VSS signal to the speedo. Couple of places to grab it, either directly from the back of the cluster or down the line closer to the lower harness. I spliced it right at the cluster because it wasnít was just easier for me at the time. So take that and use it for the Dakota output 1. Use the white wire off the intellitronix for the input to the Dakota obviously and with this setup, mine was defaulted to the L-L or low to low setting already but if yours isnít, follow the instructions and change it to this. You just hold the set button while powering up to see which program itís on. Once all this is wired, and program is selected you can set your gain, or whatever itís called. The ďcalibrationĒ of the Dakota box. It shows you in the instructions but basically there is just a + and - button and you adjust the correction factor. With a 235/40/18 and using a gps speed app on my phone, I ended up at .512 with the above settings and it is absolutely dead on at all speeds. I really hope this helps someone because it was difficult to find any info for me on the stock cluster input and all that but here you go.

So in summary, all you need is

Intellitronix GPS Speed sensor and the Dakota SGI-5e, the above settings for Lou is using an older SGI-5c unit with dip switches, and the ones sold now are digital and do not have that, just to clear up confusion. I was confused so I thought Iíd share that.

So intellitronix only needs power and ground.

Setup the dip switches to 16,000ppm which in what Lou posted, but itís in the paper that comes with the unit and there are two options for 16,000, either should work.

Dakota Digital SGI-5e:

Power
Ground
Signal in- white wire from intellitronix unit
Out 1- Red/Yellow wire at cluster (VSS Signal)

THIS IS ALL YOU NEED FOR SPEED OUTPUT ON THE CLUSTER. You do not need VSS ground or anything else hooked up to the unit.

Settings- Low-Low and calibration .512 with a 235/40/18 but set it around here and fine tune for your car using a GPS speed app. I too used Speedbox for iOS
I messaged DClem but didn't get a response. Has anyone used this setup? My speed or rpm is not working at the moment. Does the above setup fix both the speed AND rpm?
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:14 PM   #676
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I messaged DClem but didn't get a response. Has anyone used this setup? My speed or rpm is not working at the moment. Does the above setup fix both the speed AND rpm?
RPM is not part of the tranny readout. RPM's come from the CAS sensor I believe.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:23 PM   #677
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RPM is not part of the tranny readout. RPM's come from the CAS sensor I believe.
Is there any way to get the RPMs to work on a KA setup?
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Old 01-16-2019, 02:00 PM   #678
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Is there any way to get the RPMs to work on a KA setup?
The cluster gets the RPM feed from the ECU. So check your wiring, or you might have a bad cluster.

Speedo feed comes from an external sensor (in trans for S13/S14 or from ABS controller for S15), then the cluster passes a speed signal to the ECU. The setup you quoted is instructions to connect a different external speed sensor since the CD0 trans doesn't have a speed sensor built in.

Probably need to make a new thread, or chime in on the Small Questions Thread if you're having other issues not related to a CD009 trans swap.
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Old 01-26-2019, 07:44 PM   #679
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Question for anyone running the Mazworx kit. Need some help with this issue (will send Mazworx an email on Monday)

My setup
Comp Clutch White Bunny
Sr20VET
Mazworx Bell housing
Comp Clutch TOB and SR sleeve

Two setups:
1) Z33 fork, Z33 pivot ball, SR TOB sleeve, Comp Clutch TOB. The issue is, when I go to install, the TOB and clutch fork comes into contact with the PP before the tranny is fully seated. Essentially, the clutch fork is fully against the front part of the opening, which means the Fork/TOB sits too far forward on the center housing

2) If I use the Z33 pivot ball (shorter pivot ball), but SR fork, SR TOB sleeve and Comp Clutch TOB, the tranny will completely sit flush with engine and the clutch fork sits perfectly center in the opening (which makes no sense). However 2 issues

a) I have no idea what the distance between the TOB to the PP should be (no mention of it in the FSM)
b) Clutch Fork specs (what distance should it be in the opening, distance for the clutch arm to move, etc). No specs on Clutch fork in FSM either

It almost seems like the bell housing boss used to mount the pivot ball, is too tall.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:50 PM   #680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
Question for anyone running the Mazworx kit. Need some help with this issue (will send Mazworx an email on Monday)

My setup
Comp Clutch White Bunny
Sr20VET
Mazworx Bell housing
Comp Clutch TOB and SR sleeve

Two setups:
1) Z33 fork, Z33 pivot ball, SR TOB sleeve, Comp Clutch TOB. The issue is, when I go to install, the TOB and clutch fork comes into contact with the PP before the tranny is fully seated. Essentially, the clutch fork is fully against the front part of the opening, which means the Fork/TOB sits too far forward on the center housing

2) If I use the Z33 pivot ball (shorter pivot ball), but SR fork, SR TOB sleeve and Comp Clutch TOB, the tranny will completely sit flush with engine and the clutch fork sits perfectly center in the opening (which makes no sense). However 2 issues

a) I have no idea what the distance between the TOB to the PP should be (no mention of it in the FSM)
b) Clutch Fork specs (what distance should it be in the opening, distance for the clutch arm to move, etc). No specs on Clutch fork in FSM either

It almost seems like the bell housing boss used to mount the pivot ball, is too tall.
I thought you were supposed to use the Sr clutch stuff with the mazworxs kit.
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:12 PM   #681
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That is exactly what I did. SR pivot, clutch fork and TOB/sleeve. Same issue of not having enough play in the system to allow for the gearbox to be mounted onto the engine. Basically the TOB is right up against the clutch fingers with about an 1/8" gap from tranny to engine.

So far, the only thing that "seems" to work is Z33 pivot ball, SR cluch fork, SR TOB/sleeve
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:05 AM   #682
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The Mazworx bellhousing is designed to be used with the all of the sr20 clutch components. Don't use any of the z33 stuff. It's possible that the COMP components are different enough from oem to cause the issue. Try all OEM sr20 components.
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:40 AM   #683
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As I mentioned in the post prior to yours, I used all SR components and the issue is still present.

The only combination which seemingly works is the Z33 pivot ball, SR TOB/sleeve/fork.

But yeah, I am wondering if the comp clutch is the issue

I think I am going to just send it and see how it goes
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Old 01-27-2019, 10:37 AM   #684
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As I mentioned in the post prior to yours, I used all SR components and the issue is still present.

The only combination which seemingly works is the Z33 pivot ball, SR TOB/sleeve/fork.

But yeah, I am wondering if the comp clutch is the issue

I think I am going to just send it and see how it goes
Ka24de and sr basically same transmissions , I posted a couple pages back on what you need exactly , down to the smallest bolt
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Old 01-27-2019, 07:23 PM   #685
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Ka24de and sr basically same transmissions , I posted a couple pages back on what you need exactly , down to the smallest bolt
Unfortunately, a taller carrier will exacerbate the issue I am experiencing by pulling the TOB 4mm closer to the clutch PP than where it's at currently........which is it hits the PP prior to the gearbox being fully seated.

I am going to take a height measurement of the pivot ball and use that as a basis for the proper carrier bearing height
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Old 01-28-2019, 01:43 AM   #686
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Ralliart, how much clearance are you supposed to have from PP fingers to TOB? I am running a ORC dual plate and have no reference.
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Old 01-29-2019, 08:46 AM   #687
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I used an OsGiken twin disc with my Mazworx setup. I used the specific carrier sleeve that OsGiken recommends for the sr20 with their twin disc clutch, I believe it was shorter than the oem sleeve. Everything worked perfectly.
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Old 01-29-2019, 05:24 PM   #688
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I used an OsGiken twin disc with my Mazworx setup. I used the specific carrier sleeve that OsGiken recommends for the sr20 with their twin disc clutch, I believe it was shorter than the oem sleeve. Everything worked perfectly.
Cool... Yeah its a shorty Koyo TOB.... You can get it a Z1 motorsports. Cool.... Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2019, 03:26 AM   #689
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Cool... Yeah its a shorty Koyo TOB.... You can get it a Z1 motorsports. Cool.... Thanks!
I meant the bearing sleeve itself. I had to use a shorter bearing sleeve, along with the smaller diameter OsGiken tob.
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Old 01-31-2019, 12:03 PM   #690
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I meant the bearing sleeve itself. I had to use a shorter bearing sleeve, along with the smaller diameter OsGiken tob.
Oh Sorry misread. I have an ORC, not OSGiken....

Ogura only change is just the TOB and not the carrier, but I used the carrier that was supplied anyways.... But yeah a little different
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