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Old 05-01-2013, 08:20 AM   #13621
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Alright. I'm seeing every kind of thread for exterior except spoilers. Am I missing it? /fail.
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:21 AM   #13622
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I didn't wanna post this here cuz it's kinda lengthy but seeing that no one is being of any help in the cooling thread...

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Originally Posted by pacotaco345 View Post
Sorry for the bump but I've read through this thread before and I'm getting ready to drive back home from TX to CA for summer break. I (obviously) had no heating issues during the drive to and from for winter break, car stayed below 180* for the most part, and the first time I drove out at the beginning of the school year the hottest it got outside was 80* and for the most part my water temps were low 190*. If I wasn't planning on ditching the ka for an sr next month I'd get a bigger radiator but for now I'm running:
OEM plastic rad
mishi 140* thermostat
Altima fans (come on at 185* shut off at 175*)
100% distilled with a bottle of water wetter

I went on an hour ish long drive over the weekend when it was about 80* out and my car was hitting mid 190s, on the freeway, doing 70, not uphill. However as soon as I get off the freeway and sit at a light my temps drop to ~170* within the minute of me sitting stopped. This is kinda concerning me. The only difference between this setup and the previous one (last summer) is that now I have a W9 bumper instead of the OEM chuki one, which doesn't have that plastic lower shroud that goes all the way back to the core support.

Anyways, I guess my questions are 1) What are your guys' operating temps with stock radiators and 2) Should I make up some sort of lower shroud? I was thinking just some cardboard or balsa wood would work for the time being...
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:38 AM   #13623
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Question Suspension Q!

Hi there guys,
I hit my car a back while, now before i head back to Curacao from Holland (student) I'm shipping the parts from USA to Curacao cause unfortunately we don't have that many parts in Curacao.
From the picture #2 I already have on my list, the lower control arm (bent) , the tension rod that is clearly broken, the inner and outer tie rod just to be sure because i think it also bent. Car is a (JDM 180sx hatch 1995 sr20det)

But on the first picture that i posted i want to know.....if i buy the aftermarket lower arm, will i just have to take the sway bar off?....because to me it doesn't seem that it would fit on it.
The marked space is what's got me worried cause in the godspeed lower control arm i don's see the sway bar crossing?
Do you guys have any tips that i can take along?
Would really appreciate it

And here the pics!


I took a picture so u guys can see how badly i hit the car.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:34 AM   #13624
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Originally Posted by pacotaco345 View Post
I didn't wanna post this here cuz it's kinda lengthy but seeing that no one is being of any help in the cooling thread...
I don't even have a thermostat in my KA. The only time it gets to full operating temp in in traffic or at the track. I'm running a big koyo rad, stock clutch fan. Mine runs real cold most of the time so 170 should be fine.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:18 PM   #13625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whyteboi View Post
I don't even have a thermostat in my KA. The only time it gets to full operating temp in in traffic or at the track. I'm running a big koyo rad, stock clutch fan. Mine runs real cold most of the time so 170 should be fine.
Well no shit you have no thermostat
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:03 PM   #13626
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so i got my sr all wired up this week , ran vacuum line from my waste gate to my hot pipe , my fpr to mani t'd off to my boost gauge.not using a bov so i capped that on the throttle body. i turn the car on and it idles like a rotary and pours black smoke and reeks of fuel and will not rev when i move the throttle and if it does its delyed and super jumpy .
i took my intake manifold of a few moths ago along with my iacv.i did not use new gaskets i just put it back together with the old ones wich seemed in good shape.i removed the heater core, looped the coolant lines ,put on a new elbow with the old o2sensor. i need to get any info on the following things

1.why is it idling like shit and pouring black smoke that smells strong of fuel?
2.im gonna replace the intake gaskets and iacv gaskets , could this have really been leaking enough to cause this issue?
3.im gonna check the plugs to see if a injector is messed up ,they worked when i parked it a few months ago so what could have caused this if it is bad.

i had my fuel lines hooked up wrong on the fuel rail and fpr,so i switched them back over and it started but did said issue , could there be fuel in the motor ? i removed the spark plugs for 3 days before putting new ones in so i thought that would have let all gas evaporate .

what should i do? thanks any help will be good.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:19 PM   #13627
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photo and car is deolio, hope you dont mind.

just using the car as it has a sil front and i do not. lol.


my small question is; do you think the side marker looks good on the coupe or out of place?
i am thinking about doing this before i put the fenders on the car for the conversion.



YES i do like the look of it, BUT i have saved myself from a few blind spot crashes because I notice it on either mirrors or side markers and honk or get out of the way.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:33 PM   #13628
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IMO it is too far from the front

Do it like this:

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Old 05-01-2013, 03:44 PM   #13629
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i see your point on flip fronts, but doesnt that look off on a sil front?


the way the corners wrap around give it enough going on up front, which is why i thought of pushing it to the fender.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:13 PM   #13630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalDrifter View Post
If you were to get new engine and tranny mounts for strickly track use/track car what would you go with? Solid or Polyurethane...Also what brand wont make to much noise but also still gets the job done?
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Solid bushings are for drag racing. Really, they are. Go with poly, fit grease zerks, and use a shit load of lithium grease on them when you install them and grease them at least every 90 days(quarterly)

The lack of compliance in a metal bushing will cause your car to bump and jump on the track, especially when that track surface is not exactly perfectly smooth as are most smaller tracks or older tracks. The poly is the last place of flexible compliance in your suspension. Besides, you KNOW damn well you ain't only gong to track it. It will be street driven too
He's asking about solid mounts not bushings.
Don't know about drag racing but on a road racing car they are used to keep sudden lateral weight transfers to a minimum.
Obviously not meant for a street car.

Metal bushings are great for suspension articulation and feedback.
They do required periodic maintenance and are wear items.
They don't make your car "bump and jump".
That's probably poor suspension geometry/setup coupled with cheap coilovers.
I daily drove on spherical bushings for a couple of years on my last s14 and it drove well.

The Skullworks s13.5 that place 2nd at last year's Import Tuner FR Shootout:

solid mounts - check


spherical bushings - check


garbage coilovers? - hmmm, no
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:29 PM   #13631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whyteboi View Post
I don't even have a thermostat in my KA. The only time it gets to full operating temp in in traffic or at the track. I'm running a big koyo rad, stock clutch fan. Mine runs real cold most of the time so 170 should be fine.
Well I don't have a koyo. And my thermostat opens at 140* so I'm pretty sure it's always open in the summer. My temps just driving around are high 190*. SO like I said before..
WOULD IT HELP IF I GHETTORIGGED SOME SHROUDING OUT OF CARDBOARD FOR THE TRIP BACK?
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:00 PM   #13632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TougeLove View Post
photo and car is deolio, hope you dont mind.

just using the car as it has a sil front and i do not. lol.

my small question is; do you think the side marker looks good on the coupe or out of place?
i am thinking about doing this before i put the fenders on the car for the conversion.

YES i do like the look of it, BUT i have saved myself from a few blind spot crashes because I notice it on either mirrors or side markers and honk or get out of the way.
the orange part of the sil corner lamps sticks out from the side a little and pretty much acts like a side marker. if you are going to put on additional side markers then i vote for having them on the rear of the fenders. however, due to the design of the stock corners, i dont really think it's necessary to add anything.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:02 AM   #13633
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the orange part of the sil corner lamps sticks out from the side a little and pretty much acts like a side marker. if you are going to put on additional side markers then i vote for having them on the rear of the fenders. however, due to the design of the stock corners, i dont really think it's necessary to add anything.
Yep, don't put anything on, you already have a side marker in the headlight.

The only reason for them in a USDM front is because the normal blinkers are forward visible only.
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:54 PM   #13634
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wheel replating service? specifically getting one of my 18x4" lips re-chrome plated, does anyone know of a reputable shop? please.









^this^..............anyone?
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:54 PM   #13635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunghz View Post
Okay so heres whats up. My 240 started to burn oil and it was running fine just alittle blue smoke, so i had posted a thread here not to long ago wundering what was wrong and i was told it was the pcv valve, so im going to replace the pcv valve on monday to see if it solves my problem, but then today it started to have a weird idle... after it sits at idle for over 30 seconds it starts to bog goes to 600rpms and drops to almost 200rpms like its about to die then back up(back and forth) then when i finally give it gas it lets out alot of blue smoke. shes only got 148k on her i really hope its not the piston rings.
ok, so my car does the same thing as this guys car was doing. what exactly causes my car to do this?

to the original poster of this story, what did you find out if you ever got your car fixed?
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:20 AM   #13636
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Installing a pair of e-fans for my radiator. The radiator is still in the car, fully hooked up, along with my AC condenser. Is there a way to mount my e-fans using a plastic rod mounting kit without pulling out the radiator or the AC condenser?

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Old 05-03-2013, 04:27 AM   #13637
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Installing a pair of e-fans for my radiator. The radiator is still in the car, fully hooked up, along with my AC condensor. Is there a way to mount my e-fans using a plastic rod mounting kit without pulling out the radiator or the AC condensor?
Lift the radiator out of the feet at the bottom and tilt it back. Just mounted my PS cooler to my condenser, had to get my arms in there to put the push backs on.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:40 AM   #13638
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Originally Posted by zenkiset View Post
ok, so my car does the same thing as this guys car was doing. what exactly causes my car to do this?

to the original poster of this story, what did you find out if you ever got your car fixed?
Hmmm...is that a telephone RINGING?
Oh, no, it's a pair of engines that need to be torn apart and have new RINGS put in. The engine idles funny because OIL on the cylinder walls is corrupting the FUEL/AIR charge and does not burn right. The engine is trying to work harder to overcome this corruption with a higher idle and by constantly adjusting the idle higher to work.

Cheapest way to fix this is tear the motor apart, buy new gaskets, replace the rings, hone the cylinders, and put it all back together.

Better way: New gaskets, better cams, align bored and honed, bored .030 over, cylinders crosshatched, gapless rings, new rods, you know, go fast hard parts that will cost you about a month to three months salary
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:05 PM   #13639
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I have a 90 240 with a bad idle problem. i I've replaced PCV valve, cleaned the idle air control valve, and cleaned the throttle body. And for a while the idle air control valve worked fine but then valve got clogged up again. Is there anything that could be clogging up the idle air control valve? i also have a video of my ECU code. could anyone help?
1990 nissan 240sx - YouTube
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:23 PM   #13640
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Identify these wheels!!!

If anyone could tell me what kind of wheels these are it would be greatly appreciated.

1997 240sx - YouTube
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:13 PM   #13641
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I searched for s13 sr20det engine into 1995 zenki s14 and I cant find any where if I need to get the s14 ecu and wiring harness. I have everything else I need. Can some one tell me if I need the s14 wiring harness and ecu. I have the current ka ecu and harness but that wont work. And I have the s13 sr20det wiring harness and ecu but don't know if that will work?
-John
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:08 AM   #13642
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If anyone could tell me what kind of wheels these are it would be greatly appreciated.

1997 240sx - YouTube
http://zilvia.net/f/chat/174916-identify-thread.html ask here.

Did you even try asking the guy who posted that vid?
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:12 AM   #13643
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I searched for s13 sr20det engine into 1995 zenki s14 and I cant find any where if I need to get the s14 ecu and wiring harness. I have everything else I need. Can some one tell me if I need the s14 wiring harness and ecu. I have the current ka ecu and harness but that wont work. And I have the s13 sr20det wiring harness and ecu but don't know if that will work?
-John
Really? There are many how to swap guides out there. You need the s14, s13 sr wire harness and sr ecu but not the s14 ecu. What you'll have to do is mix and match some of the wiring from one to the other. Seriously, google it "s13 sr20 into s14."
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I have a 90 240 with a bad idle problem. i I've replaced PCV valve, cleaned the idle air control valve, and cleaned the throttle body. And for a while the idle air control valve worked fine but then valve got clogged up again. Is there anything that could be clogging up the idle air control valve? i also have a video of my ECU code. could anyone help?
1990 nissan 240sx - YouTube
take that code and do a search on it. The only thing that I can think of that can cause any clogging in your iacv is oil? Do you have a proper oil catch can setup? Just throwing possibilities out there but you do run an air filter right?
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:04 PM   #13644
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I have a pair of corbeau A4's with corbeau bottom mounting brackets with sliders. I am thinking about getting Bride MO rails but how much shorter are they? Does anyone have reference pictures of just the MO rails installed? yes i have searched and saw a few pictures but have not found anything giving me a good idea of how much shorter they would be than the corbeau rails. Thank you in advance.
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:45 PM   #13645
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Quick question. Will the s14 fabric of the rear seats fit on the s13 rear seats?
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:05 AM   #13646
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Does anybody know if the JDM s13 power window regulators are the same as the USDM ones? My driver side regulator broke and I can't seem to find one locally that isn't absurdly over priced. I can get a JDM passenger power window regulator shipped to my door for $50 bucks but I have no idea if the JDM passenger regulator is the same as the USDM driver regulator. If anybody can shed light on whether they are the same or not it would be much appreciated.
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:13 AM   #13647
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This may be too specific but my passenger side, rear coilover will not go near as low as the driver side. This are PBM Comp coils and the driver side is like a quarter inch from the wheel and the passenger side is about half an inch from the wheel. However on the driver side coil there is still an inch of thread to go up and Im all the way threaded to the top on the passenger side. Im sorry if this is unclear at all, basically the coil wont go low at all.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:22 AM   #13648
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Originally Posted by theStig880 View Post
This may be too specific but my passenger side, rear coilover will not go near as low as the driver side. This are PBM Comp coils and the driver side is like a quarter inch from the wheel and the passenger side is about half an inch from the wheel. However on the driver side coil there is still an inch of thread to go up and Im all the way threaded to the top on the passenger side. Im sorry if this is unclear at all, basically the coil wont go low at all.
The always classic, "my car wont get as slammed as the cool kids cars do " complaint...

I would try adjusting them when they are off the car first and make sure they all measure out similar max and min heights. Then call the coilover company if you notice an inconsistency.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:51 AM   #13649
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Quick question (no offense to anyone) I hope someone can help.







Q: Are the questions on here getting dumber? I feel like the same shit is getting asked over and over by different people.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:54 AM   #13650
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My power steering only kind of works. I still have to push it pretty hard to get it to turn. I bought a new pump and have custom lines, what elsd could be causing it?
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