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Old 05-09-2020, 11:23 PM   #23191
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I cant find any borg warner efr turbo threads on sr setups. Could someone help me im interested but not sure if the 6758 is still considered too small for revving it out
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Old 05-10-2020, 03:55 PM   #23192
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Soo my radio said to hook this green wire to my ebrake. Radio is now working properly. My ebrake light is on constantly now though and Im pretty sure cause this spring switch guy wasnt hooked up right. Cant find a pic of what its supposed to look like. Also I pulled the ebrake wire off and on and the light still doesnt go away.

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Old 05-10-2020, 05:34 PM   #23193
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Did a smoke test looking for vacuum leaks by injecting smoke into the intake (after MAF). Lots of smoke was exiting through the BPT valve. Is this normal (engine is not running, of course).

I'm thinking it should "leak" due to no exhaust pressure sealing up the BPT valve. Am i wrong?
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Old 05-10-2020, 07:07 PM   #23194
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Originally Posted by vasponger View Post
Soo my radio said to hook this green wire to my ebrake. Radio is now working properly. My ebrake light is on constantly now though and Im pretty sure cause this spring switch guy wasnt hooked up right. Cant find a pic of what its supposed to look like. Also I pulled the ebrake wire off and on and the light still doesnt go away.

So, the switch that turns it off is completely disconnected from the handbrake. Looks like it's broken maybe?

here's how it's supposed to look;




That wire from your radio (does it have a DVD player?) is to tell it when your car is parked. You don't HAVE to connect it to the ebrake. should just be able to ground it to the chassis to bypass it.
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Old 05-10-2020, 07:14 PM   #23195
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So, the switch that turns it off is completely disconnected from the handbrake. Looks like it's broken maybe?

here's how it's supposed to look;



Here, I found a replacement for you on ebay.

That wire from your radio (does it have a DVD player?) is to tell it when your car is parked. You don't HAVE to connect it to the ebrake. should just be able to ground it to the chassis to bypass it.
It does have a dvd player but I only needed to connect it to clear the bluetooth memory since the restore settings menus were not accessible without hooking up the wire. Soo at least thats working now.

The switch is good still I think, I just wasnt paying attention to when I took it off. And when the light stayed on I thought I put it on wrong.
I tried to put the brake up and down with the wire touching and off and the light still stayed on.

Thank god its only 4 screws to rip this thing off and on
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Old 05-10-2020, 09:04 PM   #23196
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

Does anyone know where I can find pigtails for these s13 corners? Anything from another car?




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Old 05-11-2020, 04:33 AM   #23197
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Does anyone know where I can find pigtails for these s13 corners?
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https://www.wiringspecialties.com/2p...eatured&page=4

I'd start here. They have a ton of jdm connectors.
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Old 05-11-2020, 04:56 AM   #23198
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https://www.wiringspecialties.com/2p...eatured&page=4



I'd start here. They have a ton of jdm connectors.


That was the first place I went and I?m not seeing anything that matches. Thanks though


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Old 05-11-2020, 10:37 AM   #23199
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https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...13-p-9597.html

There's one of them
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Old 05-11-2020, 10:46 AM   #23200
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Thanks - found that one. I mainly need the other connector. Can?t find that thing for the life of me


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Old 05-11-2020, 12:29 PM   #23201
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Thanks - found that one. I mainly need the other connector. Can?t find that thing for the life of me


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I think it's this one. There's a grey and a reddish 2 pin connector that's fairly common. The red one has the key slot on the other side though.

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/connectors1.html
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Old 05-11-2020, 04:11 PM   #23202
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I think it's this one. There's a grey and a reddish 2 pin connector that's fairly common. The red one has the key slot on the other side though.

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/connectors1.html


I think you?re right! I?m about to take a plunge and grab some connectors in the name of science. Worst case I got a few bucks in useless connectors.

Thanks for the help guys

Also I?m going to order a set of these as well for the other 2 pin


https://www.wiringspecialties.com/canesaswco.html


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Old 05-11-2020, 05:30 PM   #23203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NukeKS14 View Post
So, the switch that turns it off is completely disconnected from the handbrake. Looks like it's broken maybe?

here's how it's supposed to look;



That wire from your radio (does it have a DVD player?) is to tell it when your car is parked. You don't HAVE to connect it to the ebrake. should just be able to ground it to the chassis to bypass it.
That pic was exactly what I needed. The black piece wasnt going through the 2nd opening, the metal piece on the brake wasnt pushing the switch far enough, and the wire wasnt screwed into the black piece the right direction. That was a dumpster fire on my part.
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Old 05-11-2020, 10:44 PM   #23204
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Cluster lights, head lights, and tail lights flickering

So I was working on my fuel pump (97 s14 240sx) and prior to the work, I removed the negative terminal on the battery since I was dealing with electrical connections. After completing my work and reconnecting the negative battery terminal, all the cluster lights, head lights and tail lights started flickering. At first the flickering was constant but it evidentually died down to only when I opened/closed any door. I can start my engine and drive the car no problem. I'm clueless when it comes to electrical and wouldn't be surprised if I blew a fuse. Can someone provide some guidance/information on how yo fix this. Thanks.

P.S. I was not having any battery or alternator problems prior to removing and reconnected the negative terminal.
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Old 05-11-2020, 10:45 PM   #23205
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Cluster lights, head lights, and tail lights flickering

So I was working on my fuel pump (97 s14 240sx) and prior to the work, I removed the negative terminal on the battery since I was dealing with electrical connections. After completing my work and reconnecting the negative battery terminal, all the cluster lights, head lights and tail lights started flickering. At first the flickering was constant but it evidentually died down to only when I opened/closed any door. I can start my engine and drive the car no problem. I'm clueless when it comes to electrical and wouldn't be surprised if I blew a fuse. Can someone provide some guidance/information on how yo fix this. Thanks.

P.S. I was not having any battery or alternator problems prior to removing and reconnected the negative terminal.
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Old 05-12-2020, 07:29 AM   #23206
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Originally Posted by jgbaker008 View Post
Cluster lights, head lights, and tail lights flickering

So I was working on my fuel pump (97 s14 240sx) and prior to the work, I removed the negative terminal on the battery since I was dealing with electrical connections. After completing my work and reconnecting the negative battery terminal, all the cluster lights, head lights and tail lights started flickering. At first the flickering was constant but it evidentually died down to only when I opened/closed any door. I can start my engine and drive the car no problem. I'm clueless when it comes to electrical and wouldn't be surprised if I blew a fuse. Can someone provide some guidance/information on how yo fix this. Thanks.

P.S. I was not having any battery or alternator problems prior to removing and reconnected the negative terminal.
This is a general guess and doesn't come from a back-of-my-hand knowledge of 240 wiring.

If you didn't just happen to develop a switch problem or stickyness at the same time, you might have leaned across something on the lights, like a plug or ground, while working in the trunk.
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Old 05-12-2020, 03:27 PM   #23207
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Quote:
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This is a general guess and doesn't come from a back-of-my-hand knowledge of 240 wiring.

If you didn't just happen to develop a switch problem or stickyness at the same time, you might have leaned across something on the lights, like a plug or ground, while working in the trunk.
I figured it out. There's an after market alarm system that was installed in 98 (according to the quality control sticker) that went bad after I removed and reinstalled the negative terminal. Makes perfect sense because every alarm component started going off except the horn because its not working atm.
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Old 05-14-2020, 02:33 PM   #23208
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Hello guys does anyone know shops that fix digital speedometers and hud? I tried the soldering iron test but didnt work. I was wondering if any of you guys know a specialty shop that can fix.my issue. Thanks in advance
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Old 05-16-2020, 02:07 PM   #23209
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Does anyone know where I can find pigtails for these s13 corners? Anything from another car?




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For anyone interested the connectors ordered from Wiring Specialties work!!!

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/connectors1.html
https://www.wiringspecialties.com/canesaswco.html





Perfect fit and brand new connectors. Its a shame to see folks on ebay selling a pair of beat up pigtails with 1" of wire for $30-$40! Get yourself these and youll be set.
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Old 05-17-2020, 01:14 AM   #23210
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I would appreciate it if someone could tell me how to mount the hood release cable in the interior, it should have 2 bolts, but in my interior there is only a single hole, am I missing something from my car?
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Old 05-17-2020, 11:16 PM   #23211
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After swapping heater cores I seemed to have missed a plug putting things back together and now have no AC. Anyone know where this guy needs plugged in?

S13 plug behind glovebox https://imgur.com/gallery/vjoqL0Z


Edit

Figured it out. Plugs into the little box on the front of the cooling unit. I don't know how I missed it.
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Old 05-18-2020, 06:52 AM   #23212
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Hi all,

I'm pretty new to car stuff. I have a S13 that was passed down to me. It's in relatively good condition but needs tires, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all new fluids

Brake pads and rotors are arriving today, but I've run into a couple issues with the calipers:

1 - Almost every single caliper bolt has broken during removal. They've been super hard to remove. Any advice to make this a bit easier?
2 - The bigger easier here is that so far I've had at least 1 caliper bracket bolt break off inside the right hand rear knuckle. How screwed am I?

From what I've looked up I've figured that I need to remove the entire knuckle and try to extract the bolt, or replace the entire knuckle.

Does this sound pretty spot on?

Thanks!
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Old 05-18-2020, 11:34 AM   #23213
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Hi all,

I'm pretty new to car stuff. I have a S13 that was passed down to me. It's in relatively good condition but needs tires, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all new fluids

Brake pads and rotors are arriving today, but I've run into a couple issues with the calipers:

1 - Almost every single caliper bolt has broken during removal. They've been super hard to remove. Any advice to make this a bit easier?
2 - The bigger easier here is that so far I've had at least 1 caliper bracket bolt break off inside the right hand rear knuckle. How screwed am I?

From what I've looked up I've figured that I need to remove the entire knuckle and try to extract the bolt, or replace the entire knuckle.

Does this sound pretty spot on?

Thanks!
Is it very rusty?

If the heads are okay but they all break, someone might have used crazy locktite or something - heat from a torch will loosen threadlocker, but overdoing it will destroy the heat treating in your fasteners. Even really overdoing it with the blue stuff can be a problem, especially if the metal was prepped well. (that said, the "permanent/requires heat" thing is pretty much bullshit, at least for the red permatex, which is the brand and color of choice where I live - a dab will do ya, and will also come off when you want it to)

Are the threads that came out covered in colored stuff? Red/yellow/blue/grey chunky stuff? If so, apply heat before doing the rest, and before extracting.

Generally red is meant to be pretty tough, yellow/blue are medium, and green is very weak (or sleeve locker, which is basically unremovable)

Caliper bracket bolts should be installed with a dab of locktite - the pin/guide bolts should NOT.

Sounds like you've got the right idea - you'll probably have to take the knuckle off, drill out the middle of the bolt, and use an extractor to get out whatever's left.
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Old 05-18-2020, 12:30 PM   #23214
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Quote:
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Is it very rusty?

Sounds like you've got the right idea - you'll probably have to take the knuckle off, drill out the middle of the bolt, and use an extractor to get out whatever's left.
Yeah, it's pretty rusty. It's sat in my garage for about 6 years and before that it sat in a driveway for another 5ish years. Besides driving from it's previous location to my house (6 years ago) it hasn't really moved.

At this point I'm starting to consider what other maintenance items I should be looking at while I'm at it. Ball joints? Struts? Getting a bit more complicated and expensive but I guess I'll be learning a lot....

None of the broken bolts have had any threadlock on them that I've noticed - just a lot of rust. I've picked up some PB Blaster and was planning on working at removing the knuckle today.
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Old 05-18-2020, 05:37 PM   #23215
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How bad is it to drive the car around while having high idle? It currently 1k-1.1k after engine has been warmed up. KA24DE stock and freshly replaced TPS (0.45V).
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Old 05-18-2020, 08:01 PM   #23216
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How bad is it to drive the car around while having high idle? It currently 1k-1.1k after engine has been warmed up. KA24DE stock and freshly replaced TPS (0.45V).
Totally mechanically harmless.

Other than knowing your shit's not right.

If you rebuilt it, fix the iacv already.
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Old 05-18-2020, 09:42 PM   #23217
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Totally mechanically harmless.

Other than knowing your shit's not right.

If you rebuilt it, fix the iacv already.
Copy that. Cleaning out the iacv is next on my list in the next day or two. Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2020, 07:32 PM   #23218
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If I wanted to make new brake lines for the engine bay, what size tube would I buy?
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Old 05-19-2020, 08:13 PM   #23219
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s14 Oem Kouki Wing

Hi, Im looking to buy a oem s14 kouki wing from a silvia , 240sx ,or 200sx as long as it is oem and in good condtition.
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Old 05-19-2020, 08:50 PM   #23220
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Hi, Im looking to buy a oem s14 kouki wing from a silvia , 240sx ,or 200sx as long as it is oem and in good condtition.
https://zilvia.net/f/forumdisplay.php?f=14
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