How To: DIY Paint and Body work

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by P-Funk alot

ok i have a couple questions.
1. are some colors easier to spray than others
2. is there a change in method for metallic and candy paints
3. have you ever used a prism clear
4. and finally when you use metal flake is that sprayed with the clear.

thanks in advance i plan on painting my car here in the next 2-3 weeks.

1 some colors cover easier than others but I don't think any of them spray differently. Make sure when you buy your paint you buy the correct sealer color this will make spraying much easier.
2 yes candy and metallics are hard to spray it takes skill and practice. When spraying metallics they tend to streak or blotch on the surface, to fix this go back over the areas but back your distance from the surface off a few inches more, it should look a bit lighter when your spraying it. When I spray candies I'll do a few coats at different angles on the car because candies will streak and look like crap when your spray clear so this helps make sure there are no streaks.
3 never heard of a prism clear
4 if you spray it with the clear I would do only one coat and then do two coats of normal clear over that. Most of the time you end up sanding and buffing and the last thing you want is metallics in your surface while polishing. Or you can spray it using a clear base coat and then spray clear over it

[Jybfan04]

Best step by step DIY paint thread on here...

There is another one, but doesn't really touch on the body aspect of it..

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by Jybfan04

Best step by step DIY paint thread on here...

There is another one, but doesn't really touch on the body aspect of it..

Thanks man, I try to be as detailed as possible without being right there with them. I plan on adding many more posts when I have time to start back on my projects.

[SMM]

IMO CANDY and Silver are somewhat challenging to spray. But I mean if you know what you are doing you will be fine.

[1gr8bar10der]

Subscribed! I'm going to paint my car next month. Glad your thread came in handy

[PureRush]

Good stuff very helpful!! What do you recommend for candy paints? Do you have to spray two different base coats then clear coat?

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by PureRush

Good stuff very helpful!! What do you recommend for candy paints? Do you have to spray two different base coats then clear coat?

When you buy the candy paints they should tell you what base coat goes on underneath .....most likely a light color or some form of gold or silver. So the base goes on first then the candy and then your clear coat. Candy paints are basically a transparent base coat almost like a clear coat

[buentellomma]

How To: Paint JDM AE86 Front and Rear bumpers in your garage
Step 1: Scuff sand the raw plastic bumpers with 320 grit or a red scotch brite pad. Use soap and water to clean the bumpers before hanging them to be painted. After drying the bumpers and hanging them for paint, wipe them with wax and grease remover to clean off any residue.


Step 2: Use a tack rag to remove any dust that may have settled on the plastic( as you wipe them static will built up and attract dust). the bumpers are now ready to be sprayed with a primer sealer. Apply two light coats if you spray it too wet it will run.

Step 3: after allowing the sealer to dry for 20-30 mins, spray the first base coat color on the areas that require ( these bumpers have paint lines already in the plastic) also apply the base coat in light to medium wet coats or it will run or wrinkle.



Step 4: after allowing the base coat to dry for at least an hour ( warmer temp will take less time an hour is a safe timeline) use masking tape to mask off the paint lines in the plastic.


Step 5: spray the black base coat on the rest of the bumper, apply light to medium wet coats. after the black is fully covered, allow the base coat to dry for 20-30mins and then remove the masked areas. once all the masking is removed, it is now ready for clear coat. apply 2-3 coats of clear coat.

[upsdude]

I've had to remove large amounts of filler from both quarter panels, and my front fender. should i cover the bare metal with primer first then use filler?

or use filler on the bare metal then primer? i was thinking of using etching primer first just b ecause i don't want to have any problems with the metal rusting.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by upsdude

I've had to remove large amounts of filler from both quarter panels, and my front fender. should i cover the bare metal with primer first then use filler?

or use filler on the bare metal then primer? i was thinking of using etching primer first just b ecause i don't want to have any problems with the metal rusting.

its fine to apply bodyfiller to bare metal, rust under the bodyfiller only happens if water is absorbed into the filler. if you are going to work the filler and then prime it ,corrosion wont be an issue. the issue with primer is that the UV rays from the sun break down the primer and will allow water to be absorbed. when you prime it , its best to base/ clear it soon.

[upsdude]

with respect to primer, i was planning to wait a few days for the primer to properly cure and shrink before doing color (found this tip on one of the auto body forums).

so should i go with a regular 2k primer or the thicker primer to help fill the low spots? i want to use as little filler as possible.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by upsdude

with respect to primer, i was planning to wait a few days for the primer to properly cure and shrink before doing color (found this tip on one of the auto body forums).

so should i go with a regular 2k primer or the thicker primer to help fill the low spots? i want to use as little filler as possible.

2k primer with about 2-3 coats. you dont want the primer to be thick because when you base and clear it you will be able to see where the primer is under the paint due to the thickness. primer is not designed for filling low spots, when you sanding your bodyfiller, dust some rattle can black on the filler and sand. this will find your low spots and deep scratches. to reduce swelling of sand scratches, use this method( use 36grit to level the filler to the surface, then use 80 grit to finish shaping. apply another thin coat of filler over the area and use 80grit to level it and finish up with 180grit. 180grit or finer is less likely to swell) after priming if you allow it to cure 2-3 days the primer will be good to go. to use less filler you will have to metal work it to its almost perfect. your filler should never be more than 1/4inch thick

[upsdude]

ok thanks! yeah the filler was about 1/2 inch thick

i should get some pics but there were holes near the edge of the qp where it meets with the door-you could tell someone used a slide hammer try to pull the dent out. it's in a spot that i won't be able to get with a dolly (first time doing bodywork btw wish me luck lol). at one point i was going to just put an over fender but i'll -try- save the stock metal first

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by upsdude

ok thanks! yeah the filler was about 1/2 inch thick

i should get some pics but there were holes near the edge of the qp where it meets with the door-you could tell someone used a slide hammer try to pull the dent out. it's in a spot that i won't be able to get with a dolly (first time doing bodywork btw wish me luck lol). at one point i was going to just put an over fender but i'll -try- save the stock metal first

the best thing to use is a weld on stud puller/gun. if you have holes in your metal they need to be welded up
Motor Guard JO1000 Magna-Spot 1000 Kit

[upsdude]

ok thanks for the tip. that's the thing that gets me the most though. finding all this hidden damage makes me want to just part what i have and look for a cleaner platform to start over on. i don't want to start spending a bunch of money on tools and stuff that i'm only going to use once. here's what i'm working with:








and when you run your hand over that area it's very dimply :P

[buentellomma]

That's a pretty tuff repair for someone inexperienced.... Looks like it was hit pretty hard. That really low spot around the door jam is going to have to be pulled back out. Does the door jam have a kink or buldge in it? If you push on. The metal does it pop?

[upsdude]

the door felt solid last time i checked but i'll look again. for whatever reason that area wasnt pulled out properly (as you can see).

[dpritchard4]

i really want to attempt to spray my bumper (since its black and dosnt match my red car) so can someone give me an idea of exactly what i need to pain the bumper? it would be nice to just walk into napa and ask for everything line by line and get a quote.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by dpritchard4

i really want to attempt to spray my bumper (since its black and dosnt match my red car) so can someone give me an idea of exactly what i need to pain the bumper? it would be nice to just walk into napa and ask for everything line by line and get a quote.

not sure if you can buy automotive paint at napa but heres your list:
pint of the color you need( base coat)
pint of sealer
half gal of clear coat
mixing sticks and strainers
mixing cups
320grit sand paper
wax and grease remover
tack rag
automotive wipes
air compressor
spray gun
respirator

[RB180sxChris]

Good thread =)

[GL Chrillz]

what wire would you suggest to weld up some floor board with a hobart 140? I'm only running flux core right now, to go mig I need an adapter to run my paintball co2 tank which I should be able to pick up fairly easily.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

what wire would you suggest to weld up some floor board with a hobart 140? I'm only running flux core right now, to go mig I need an adapter to run my paintball co2 tank which I should be able to pick up fairly easily.

how thick is the metal your welding in?

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

how thick is the metal your welding in?

16g

i know flux core gets a little better penetration but is a lot messier. is it worth the cost to switch over to mig using 100% co2 or just finish this little project with flux core?

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

16g

i know flux core gets a little better penetration but is a lot messier. is it worth the cost to switch over to mig using 100% co2 or just finish this little project with flux core?

.030 wire should be good... Using co2, I'm not a professional welder but I can't remember seeing anyone just using 100% co2 to weld steel or aluminum. Rule normally is 75% argon 25% co2 mix for steel and 100% argon for steel and aluminum only. If you only welding a small area I would just stick with flux but if you have more welding projects in the future go with mig with gas

[ma.jomaa]

Awesome thread, I'll be painting my car in the garage soon and I've never painted a car before your step by stop DIY will definitely come in handy.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I cant remember if I asked you this on Sumospeed already but, do you paint other peoples cars on the side or you only do your own cars? Sucks when you live in an apt.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

I cant remember if I asked you this on Sumospeed already but, do you paint other peoples cars on the side or you only do your own cars? Sucks when you live in an apt.

Yeah i paint others before mine, im not taking on another project til i get time to get my hatch going again.

[ManoNegra]

Digging this thread
I'm also in the starting stages of painting my car in the garage
I've found the stickies on autobody101 to be pretty helpful
aswel as mcqueenpaint's youtube channel

I have fixed a crack in the rear bumper and sanded it and the valences so far
and started to remove windshield trim
I plan to have the rest of the door trim removed and get started with the body sanding this weekend
I'll try to remember and snap some pics

upsdude - I'd like to check out how your ride comes out if you don't mind.
I'm nearby in Pomona.
Are there any worthwhile gatherings in the area?

[upsdude]

i ended up selling the car. i wanted the body damage fixed the righ way; the qp damage was beyond my capabities and a body shop wanted arouns 1k to fix. ended up getting a low mileage '98 from c.rockett unfortunately it has its own issues lol.

horrible experience with a/shop, etc. but i like this car alot more.
review of the shop:

http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/44714...indale-ca.html

[ManoNegra]

Sucks to hear about all the shit you went thorugh
hope the new one won't be too bad
but yeah, it's been my experience that no matter how good a car looks
it'll always need some work