S14 gauge cluster issues

[LtSlayer]

S13 Blacktop Sr20det in 1995 240sx, base I believe.

So I?ve done a lot of work to my car and part of that included installing a wideband. I was searching for a 12v ignition source and grounded something. Fast forward I set everything back up and the gauge cluster doesn?t read anything besides the lights; oil pressure, battery, CEL, etc. Did grounding something blow the dash? How do I check this? The Tach has 12v on terminal 21 but doesn?t read.

The Motor also has problems running now? Can this be linked to having no temperature reading?

According to the wideband i was idling at around 16 AFR at the lowest more like 16.5/17.

Any ideas I?d these are related and what could be causing these problems?
Z32 MAF Reading 1.36 v at elevated idle on a R.S. Enthalpy tune.

Thanks guys

[EDacIouSX]

Originally Posted by LtSlayer

S13 Blacktop Sr20det in 1995 240sx, base I believe.

So I?ve done a lot of work to my car and part of that included installing a wideband. I was searching for a 12v ignition source and grounded something. Fast forward I set everything back up and the gauge cluster doesn?t read anything besides the lights; oil pressure, battery, CEL, etc. Did grounding something blow the dash? How do I check this? The Tach has 12v on terminal 21 but doesn?t read.

The Motor also has problems running now? Can this be linked to having no temperature reading?

According to the wideband i was idling at around 16 AFR at the lowest more like 16.5/17.

Any ideas I?d these are related and what could be causing these problems?
Z32 MAF Reading 1.36 v at elevated idle on a R.S. Enthalpy tune.

Thanks guys

There's two water temperature readings on the KA IIRC so I think it might be the same on the SR. That info might not be useful to you lol and im too lazy to open my hood lol. But I think the s14 ka has one that goes to the cluster and one to the ecu. I believe the KA pulls temp readings from the throttle body

Yes, you need a temperature reading to the ecu. The ecu should change gas depending on the temperature of the water, i know aftermarket ones do.

[AKADriver]

All those things that aren't working ground through pin 22 on the cluster, see if pin 22 still has continuity to ground or is perhaps being backfed 12v from something.

There's two water temperature readings on the KA IIRC so I think it might be the same on the SR.

Both KA and SR have two temp sensors. One pin sensor for the gauge, two pin sensor for the ECU. On the KA they're both on the upper water neck (above the throttle body). On the SR they're vaguely in the same place, in the little coolant manifold above the thermostat housing. And yes they're wired totally separately and one being kaput doesn't affect the other.

[kennn]

Originally Posted by LtSlayer

S13 Blacktop Sr20det in 1995 240sx, base I believe.

One easy way is by looking in the underhood fusebox at the main fuse. The base has a 75A fuse, and the SE has a 100A fuse.


This problem is sufficiently complicated such that troubleshooting over Internet is not possible.

You added too much complexity with the wideband on top of mixing blacktop S13 motor into USDM S14a body, and having a base "tune" thrown on top of an unverified swap.

All of the wiring for the dash is done at the big white F1->F4 plug in the passenger footwell, and I highly doubt all the wires were connected correctly, other than myself, Yuri, or a very few other who knows these cars well. On top of that, the USDM 95 S14 FSM is wrong! I hand verified every single wire on the car, and there are spots where the FSM was completely wrong, and Nissan never bothered to issue a TSB to update the FSM.

Word of caution: wiring the blacktop S13 SR is more complicated than the redtop, as the ECU has more complexity, and this swap is not well-documented on the Internet.

The proper way to do this is to source a JDM FSM for the kouki 180SX and translate the wiring diagram over. I have done this for the redtop SR, but I haven't found a blacktop FSM yet.

My advice? You should have verified that everything functioned correctly with the stock KA before attempting the swap. Then you can attempt the swap with a factory ECU. Make sure everything works as it should. There will be some functionalities that will never work because they are not supported by the JDM ECU. AC fan hi/lo is one that I know off the top of my head (S13 only has a single speed AC fan).

The VSS will also need to be swapped over to the KA for the speedo/odo to read correctly. Wiring at the battery box will also need to be verified so your backup lights, neutral/4th/5th gear switches, alternator/starter/oil pressure switch, etc. work correctly.

You need Datascan or Nistune to verify codes, set base idle/timing, and do numerous shakedown runs to verify the factory maps.

Only then should you attempt to slap on an Enthalpy base tune, and maybe then you can add the wideband.


I'm sorry if I'm being harsh, but if you took your car to HKS Japan they would have said the same thing. I've dealt with this stuff enough (let's say 100 swaps over the past 20 years would be a conservative estimate) to know when someone is in over their head.

[kennn]

Originally Posted by AKADriver

All those things that aren't working ground through pin 22 on the cluster, see if pin 22 still has continuity to ground or is perhaps being backfed 12v from something.

The S14 is so complicated that I would have to verify every wire and bench-test the cluster to make sure it even works.

Also, remember the tach signal driver is in the ECU, and is not compatible with S14 tach.

Originally Posted by AKADriver

Both KA and SR have two temp sensors. One pin sensor for the gauge, two pin sensor for the ECU. On the KA they're both on the upper water neck (above the throttle body). On the SR they're vaguely in the same place, in the little coolant manifold above the thermostat housing. And yes they're wired totally separately and one being kaput doesn't affect the other.

The SR has them on the upper waterneck under the #1 intake runner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKuFcERGshs

Note: use the 2-pin sensor that matches the ECU, use the 1-pin sensor that matches the cluster

And we have threads that just die with no answer or update: https://www.s-chassis.com/forums/eng...23/#post214978