Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[PAPERPLANES]

Hi all, complete noob here with a couple questions.

Car Info: S13 HATCH DOHC NON-ABS

Trying to: Install VLSD to replace open diff

Parts: J30 axles (1993), R200v (from NA 300zx), Differential cover gasket (to swap covers)

Questions: I've read a lot about differential swaps for the 240sx but none seem to apply for my exact setup. I've read on an archived KA24Development file that you need longer bolts and large washers for the front bushings specifically for S13s but I've read on here that some people get solid bushings instead (like from SPL) My question is do I have to do both of these things or just one and what would be the better option for spirited driving? If going the bolt and washer route would the washer go on the bottom or top?

There also seems to be an issue with ABS and NON-ABS driveshafts but I'm hoping (fingers crossed) I won't have to look for a new one since the R200v has the sensors on the sides as opposed to the snout (like a J30 diff) anyone with any experience?

Is the differential supposed to have any play in the output shaft/flanges (movement in and out the differential NOT up and down or side to side)?

Any insight is helpful, thanks! Let me know if I'm missing something.

[ACruz_180sx]

I have a 89 s13 hatch RHD . Does anyone know how much they go for ??
I have a guy wanting to trade just my shell for a left hand drive 240 same year boosted single cam . Built bottom up . Tuned front end. Maybe it?s a good deal ? Maybe my car is worth more I really don?t kno

[Parag0n]

When replacing my rotors / calipers / pads, I'm running into a strange issue where my front right caliper won't fit due to the brake line being too short?

I can't get the angle right or get it to reach the bracket.

I measured the new caliper bracket vs the old and they're identical in size.

I have the wheel turned full lock right for ease of access, but I figured it should still fit?

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by Parag0n

When replacing my rotors / calipers / pads, I'm running into a strange issue where my front right caliper won't fit due to the brake line being too short?

I can't get the angle right or get it to reach the bracket.

I measured the new caliper bracket vs the old and they're identical in size.

I have the wheel turned full lock right for ease of access, but I figured it should still fit?

Do you have the caliper sides mixed up? Left and right are specific.

[Parag0n]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Do you have the caliper sides mixed up? Left and right are specific.

Nope. The caliper is labeled "R" and the bleeder valve is on the top.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by Parag0n

When replacing my rotors / calipers / pads, I'm running into a strange issue where my front right caliper won't fit due to the brake line being too short?

I can't get the angle right or get it to reach the bracket.

I measured the new caliper bracket vs the old and they're identical in size.

I have the wheel turned full lock right for ease of access, but I figured it should still fit?

need pix. if the new caliper is identical to the old caliper, and the line was never changed, somethings fucky. . .

[Parag0n]

Originally Posted by brndck

need pix. if the new caliper is identical to the old caliper, and the line was never changed, somethings fucky. . .

I agree...I'll have some tomorrow, I'm covering the 2nd shift tonight at work.

Thanks

[Parag0n]

Originally Posted by brndck

need pix. if the new caliper is identical to the old caliper, and the line was never changed, somethings fucky. . .

Here's some photos for you. Took them when I got home...

https://imgur.com/a/hYioWCq

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Parag0n

Here's some photos for you. Took them when I got home...



https://imgur.com/a/hYioWCq

You have the brake line on wrong. The nub on the side should fit between the posts on the caliper to stop it from spinning. That will then orient the brake line a little better to give you the space needed. Right now you have the line itself between those posts, and the whole thing is twisted down.

[Parag0n]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

You have the brake line on wrong. The nub on the side should fit between the posts on the caliper to stop it from spinning. That will then orient the brake line a little better to give you the space needed. Right now you have the line itself between those posts, and the whole thing is twisted down.]

Man I'm an idiot. Thanks. I knew something about the posts looked off when I was putting them together but I couldn't quite place it.

Back out there today to finish this up. Thanks for the help

[SteffbuiltNOLA]

Hey zilvians, quick question. Does anyone know if the Altima fuel rail fits the S13 ka? I know injectors are the same but unsure of the rail.

[burnsauto]

Originally Posted by SteffbuiltNOLA

Hey zilvians, quick question. Does anyone know if the Altima fuel rail fits the S13 ka? I know injectors are the same but unsure of the rail.

the 2 mounting locations look to be in fairly similar, but the fpr are on opposite sides.. so that may be an issue.

[hellion240sx]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Kouki headlights? Yes the chrome flakes off inside....

The fix is replace the headlights..

Oof... got it. Is there a reason why? I've 2 sets and havent seen this issue before.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by hellion240sx

Oof... got it. Is there a reason why? I've 2 sets and havent seen this issue before.

Age & plastic degradation. Garage kept cars seem to fair better then sitting in the sun for the past 23 years.

[hellion240sx]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Age & plastic degradation. Garage kept cars seem to fair better then sitting in the sun for the past 23 years.

I guess this would be a good reason to open them up and repaint them gloss black huh? Or would that not be as bright light output as the chrome painting?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by hellion240sx

I guess this would be a good reason to open them up and repaint them gloss black huh? Or would that not be as bright light output as the chrome painting?

The low beam is a projector, so that's fine. Issue would be to make sure you don't paint the reflector part of the high beam. The chrome trim itself would be fine to paint.

[SRSmith]

My t25 blew, so I put in a no-name t28.

Surprisingly, my afr is still fine, but Im way overboosting. my old wastegate was set at 8psi, and the one that came with the new turbk is much higher. Unfortunately, they are not interchangeable.

Can I make this setup run on 8psi? I have a bleeder valve, but that can only give me more boost, not less. Could I seg the preset higher on the wastegate so it stays open a bit?

I know I really need bigger injectors and a new ecu or safc, but Id like to just get by for a bit before doing that. Is this possible?

[SRSmith]

Double Tap

[deolio]

Originally Posted by SRSmith

My t25 blew, so I put in a no-name t28.

Surprisingly, my afr is still fine, but Im way overboosting.

change the wastegate or just get a boost controller...

if it's a new stock turbo the spring should be 8lbs though. you may have another issue. you sure you hooked up the vacuum lines right? haha

[SRSmith]

I have a boost controller, but as far as I'm understanding, aren't they only able to make the wastegate open at a higher psi, not lower? Or do I have this wrong?

[S14rebuild]

Wastegate spring is lowest u can go...boost controller can go up.


Like posted make sure the vacuum lines are properly plumbed and wastegate arm moves freely

[LoSt180]

How much higher is the boost though? 8 psi is pretty low. I forget if S13 has the wastegate solenoid, but stock boost on the S14 is like 11lbs (if unplugged, then the spring alone is 7-8ish).

So if your AFRs are fine, and that turbo is in the 10-13 psi range, just enjoy the extra power.

[SRSmith]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Wastegate spring is lowest u can go...boost controller can go up.


Like posted make sure the vacuum lines are properly plumbed and wastegate arm moves freely

Vacuum lines are good (same as stock). Wastgate moves freely. Applied air to test fuction, and while I couldn't get an exact measurement, it takes a lot more psi than the original.

[S14rebuild]

Anyway you can swap over you old wastegate onto this turbo?

Just seems that the new turbo has a higher psi wastegate on it....

[SRSmith]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

How much higher is the boost though? 8 psi is pretty low. I forget if S13 has the wastegate solenoid, but stock boost on the S14 is like 11lbs (if unplugged, then the spring alone is 7-8ish).

So if your AFRs are fine, and that turbo is in the 10-13 psi range, just enjoy the extra power.

Sounds fair. I don't know why my AFR isn't off with the extra boost, but I won't complain too loudly

Thanks all. I had adjusted the preset but have still to test it like that. I'll probably still try it like that to see what it changes.

[SRSmith]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Anyway you can swap over you old wastegate onto this turbo?

Just seems that the new turbo has a higher psi wastegate on it....

If I could I would have done so in a heartbeat. Unfortunately, the wastegate on the t25 is pinned to the bracket, while the one on the t28 has bolts. The brackets aren't interchangeable.

[S14rebuild]

Can u drill the pins out and then make holes for bolts?

Just seems like that wastegate is just set to run xx psi

Seems like only choice is to change it out....

U less im missing something here

[deolio]

Originally Posted by SRSmith

I have a boost controller, but as far as I'm understanding, aren't they only able to make the wastegate open at a higher psi, not lower? Or do I have this wrong?

correct, my brain just shit itself i'd check with wherever you brought the turbo from and see if the wastegate spring is just for higher psi. might have to buy an oem actuator to swap on there. in the meantime, if you adjusted the actuator arm to keep the wastegate cracked open it'd make the car laggy, but you could do it.

[SRSmith]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Can u drill the pins out and then make holes for bolts?

Just seems like that wastegate is just set to run xx psi

Seems like only choice is to change it out....

U less im missing something here

It's pinned like this one:http://https://drive.google.com/file...w?usp=drivesdk

I wish I could attach bolts to it, but I don't see a way to open it up and Im sure my mig would just burn a hole in it if I tried to weld some on.

I think I will get a new one with a lighter spring. The peoblem is finding one on the cheap.

[SRSmith]

Originally Posted by deolio

in the meantime, if you adjusted the actuator arm to keep the wastegate cracked open it'd make the car laggy, but you could do it.

Thanks bro, this is exactly what I was wondering.

I gave it a shot, and the car is super laggy untill 4000 rpm. However, at least I can drive it until I get a new one.