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Old 02-16-2011, 10:17 PM   #4621
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I tried finding just brackets, and was unable to. And a lot of shops wouldn't fab them up for me because of safety issues or whatever bs. You can get bottom mount rails from Bride and I think Recaro that bolt right up to the floor... From what I know. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:44 PM   #4622
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Hmm, im thinking if that's the case fabbing them myself sounds like less headache...ill just get my material, cut and drill mounting tabs, bolt them up, tack on the box frame to the tabs, remove, weld...sounds like an afternoon
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:47 PM   #4623
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yes that would be the best way make them yourself its not even difficult to do, just measure and cut everything right and it would be much cheaper too and make sure that the brackets are sturdy enough.
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Old 02-17-2011, 02:54 PM   #4624
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I found one place in San Jose Ca that has them but they cost around $250 each.

Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Wheel Bearing Housing? Haven't found anyone that has any in stock.
Also, anyone know how affective turndown tips are to muffle the exhaust sound compared to a muffler or resonator?
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:33 PM   #4625
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anyone know what letter or number the bolts for the engine mount brackets have on them? and what are the ones that have a 22 on the top for?? foR a KA24DE
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:25 PM   #4626
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Buddy club rails are shit regardless. I hate mine. They don't sit low enough and they don't slide if my life depended on it. I greased the hell out of them, and got them as straight as possible. But I hate them. [/rant]
you might not have it installed right? My buddy club ones slide fine all day, you need the front mount bolted as high up as possible and the rear as low as possible. Brides hit the rail that lifts the slider locks, so you can't disengage the locks.

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i would mount the rails first and then the seat
and to beat a dead horse, Losely mount the seat rails and brackets first, so you can adjust it to your seat. Then tighten slowly each side so it sits evenly - like 2 turns each side then 2 turns each side till it's done
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:58 PM   #4627
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ok I've looked everywhere but couldn't find an answer to this specific problem, my idle is kinda low, when I put it in drive it drops to 450-500 and the car kinda shakes, its a ka24e single cam, timing is at 10 degrees, the problem is, when I turn the IACV, there is no response whatsoever, the rpm doesn't go up or down, what could be the cause?
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:59 PM   #4628
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which wire is for the horn button on a 97 s14.....cuz there is no green wire
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:14 PM   #4629
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I just ordered what I think is the USDM Kouki Bumper Retainer. Ths is the part that the bumper bolts on to. Now I have a JDM Kouki bumper. It will still work......right? Right!?
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:22 PM   #4630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaZeD View Post
I just ordered what I think is the USDM Kouki Bumper Retainer. Ths is the part that the bumper bolts on to. Now I have a JDM Kouki bumper. It will still work......right? Right!?
of course silly goose lol
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:49 PM   #4631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezahualcoyotl View Post
Also, anyone know how affective turndown tips are to muffle the exhaust sound compared to a muffler or resonator?
The do quiet it down, but they do not work like a muffler. Up close just as loud, but they obviously don't 'project' the sound like a typical muffler.

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Originally Posted by pepe123 View Post
anyone know what letter or number the bolts for the engine mount brackets have on them? and what are the ones that have a 22 on the top for?? foR a KA24DE
Engine bolt numbers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
and to beat a dead horse, Losely mount the seat rails and brackets first, so you can adjust it to your seat. Then tighten slowly each side so it sits evenly - like 2 turns each side then 2 turns each side till it's done
DING DING> This is the only way to install seats IMO. With so many varianences in brackets and setas, it just works best to keep it loose, and then apply a final torque.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:14 PM   #4632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
you might not have it installed right? My buddy club ones slide fine all day, you need the front mount bolted as high up as possible and the rear as low as possible. Brides hit the rail that lifts the slider locks, so you can't disengage the locks.

That's how I have them. I mean, I clear fine right now, but when time comes to wear a helmet, idk how I'll fit.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:50 PM   #4633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLKTOPSR20DET View Post
yes that would be the best way make them yourself its not even difficult to do, just measure and cut everything right and it would be much cheaper too and make sure that the brackets are sturdy enough.
Ya not to worry, I build racecars i can make strong brackets this is just my daily...now that I just redid all the cloth in the front but the seats today I really want to swap out the seats, the 21yr old beat stock seats are an extreme eye sore now...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezahualcoyotl View Post
I found one place in San Jose Ca that has them but they cost around $250 each.



Also, anyone know how affective turndown tips are to muffle the exhaust sound compared to a muffler or resonator?
Ya fuck $250 each, I've paid 150 a pair before...


As for your muffler turn down question, they are great because instead of projecting soundwaves outwards through the air, the turn down aims the waves at the road, which is fairly pourous and absorbs a portion of the sound wave and reflects less back into the air than if they were projected out the back...its the best way to quiet a car without limiting performance...

A lot of scca guys are going to downturns because of noise advantages
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:53 PM   #4634
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um on the top of every bolt that is used to mount brackets to the block theres a number or letter. on the head of the bolt. i want to know what letter or number the bolts that attach the engine mount brackets to the block have?
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:37 PM   #4635
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Quote:
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of course silly goose lol
Just thought i'd be sure. Thanks for the answer man.
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:01 AM   #4636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
you might not have it installed right? My buddy club ones slide fine all day, you need the front mount bolted as high up as possible and the rear as low as possible. Brides hit the rail that lifts the slider locks, so you can't disengage the locks.


and to beat a dead horse, Losely mount the seat rails and brackets first, so you can adjust it to your seat. Then tighten slowly each side so it sits evenly - like 2 turns each side then 2 turns each side till it's done
huh never tried it like that but good to know will be installing some seats soon on mine.
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:29 AM   #4637
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I need an a/c compressor as mine has died on me. If you were going to get one, would you get a used one or a new one? If a new one, would you get it online or just at a local auto parts store? Only reason I ask the last part is the power steering pump I got from an auto parts store would not bleed the air and immediately made noise because it was bad.
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:48 AM   #4638
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I need an a/c compressor as mine has died on me. If you were going to get one, would you get a used one or a new one? If a new one, would you get it online or just at a local auto parts store? Only reason I ask the last part is the power steering pump I got from an auto parts store would not bleed the air and immediately made noise because it was bad.
Get what you can afford and get one with a (limited) lifetime warranty ...I usually goto autozone for that stuff, I've had good luck with their remanufactured parts...
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:56 AM   #4639
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I just replaced my power steering rack and hard lines (high pressure and low pressure) with new stainless steal ones. Bled the system, then re did it again to get any remaining air bubbles. Went to pull out of the driveway and the power steering pump started to wine. Lasted for about a minute and then went away. While this was happening if I was to turn the steering wheel, it feels like I am just using a manual rack. But once I got full lock in both directions the stiff feeling goes away and it acts like a normal power steering car. Thoughts?
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:36 AM   #4640
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Okay so I'm over heating a bit but its kinda strange to me and I don't know where to start. When I see the temp gauge start to climb I turn on the heater and it will go down but eventually it starts to climb again and it goes down again. So I leave it off and its fine but then the needle climbs AGAIN. So I turn on the heater again and its fine once again... I don't really know where to start and I don't want to just start tearing shit apart. I can only think that the thermostat is stuck or something? Water pump is good, its not leaking coolant or anything.
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:56 AM   #4641
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Okay so I'm over heating a bit but its kinda strange to me and I don't know where to start. When I see the temp gauge start to climb I turn on the heater and it will go down but eventually it starts to climb again and it goes down again. So I leave it off and its fine but then the needle climbs AGAIN. So I turn on the heater again and its fine once again... I don't really know where to start and I don't want to just start tearing shit apart. I can only think that the thermostat is stuck or something? Water pump is good, its not leaking coolant or anything.
How do you know your water pump is good? They don't need to leak to be bad...though I will say that since your heater is bringing the heat down your water is flowing, so your pump probably is good.(that's always a good thing to turn on to get water temps down in an emergency).

Is your fan turning? Does the clutch modulate the fan based on temp? If either answer is no, your fan clutch is bad...

How's your coolent level? When you run the car from cooled off, open the rad cap and get the car to warm up, rev from the engine bay if you have to and see if the thermostat opens up and coolent level changes...have you bled the coolent system to make sure you have it properly filled, you need to burp out all the air in the system by running the car and make sure it warms up and add coolent when the thermostat opens. The 240 likes to hide air in the system and it helps to shake the car actually haha...also make sure you fill your coolent reservoir to appropriate levels when cold...if you really are uncomfortable go pick up a thermostat, should be 170 degrees f...its only like $10

How's the oil look? When you run with the rad cap off are little bubbles coming up in the opening? Or is the oil milky? That would indicate a blown head gasket...

That's what you need to check...
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Old 02-18-2011, 12:16 PM   #4642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedSiBaron View Post
How do you know your water pump is good? They don't need to leak to be bad...though I will say that since your heater is bringing the heat down your water is flowing, so your pump probably is good.(that's always a good thing to turn on to get water temps down in an emergency).

Is your fan turning? Does the clutch modulate the fan based on temp? If either answer is no, your fan clutch is bad...

How's your coolent level? When you run the car from cooled off, open the rad cap and get the car to warm up, rev from the engine bay if you have to and see if the thermostat opens up and coolent level changes...have you bled the coolent system to make sure you have it properly filled, you need to burp out all the air in the system by running the car and make sure it warms up and add coolent when the thermostat opens. The 240 likes to hide air in the system and it helps to shake the car actually haha...also make sure you fill your coolent reservoir to appropriate levels when cold...if you really are uncomfortable go pick up a thermostat, should be 170 degrees f...its only like $10

How's the oil look? When you run with the rad cap off are little bubbles coming up in the opening? Or is the oil milky? That would indicate a blown head gasket...

That's what you need to check...
Thanks for the quick reply. I filled coolant last night to the top, just now I filled coolant before checking back at this thread and my coolant dropped from what it was at last night. When I got home from school just now I noticed coolant was leaking from the hose that goes to the reservoir. The hose doesn't have a crack but coolant leaked and so I tightened the clamp tighter. The fan does turn but I'm not sure about temp. I'd have to let the car cool down before I can watch how it modulates according to temp. I'll do all the other stuff and get back to you when the car has cooled down. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2011, 03:28 PM   #4643
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Thermo stuck open?

vvvvvvvvvv

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Old 02-18-2011, 04:33 PM   #4644
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Hey guys to do my timing all i need to do is take oil pan off, that bracket under oil pan? can i get to the two bolts that hold the timing cover ? crank pulley, valve cover, two bolts in head that hold the timing cover, bolt thats on crank pulley, cams ? engine is in the bay and i DO NOT want to take it out AGAIN. thanks sr20det redtop

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Old 02-18-2011, 04:48 PM   #4645
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Does the "Megan Racing SSDP-KA24 Downpipe (Non-Turbo)" Delete both the first and second cat?

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Megan Racing SSDP-KA24 Downpipe Non-Turbo

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Old 02-18-2011, 05:09 PM   #4646
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JDM Kouki front bumper corner lights. How are they wired up? to the USDM corners and blinkers harness or just the USDM blinker harness. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:29 PM   #4647
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What are decent pads for street/track? Current set-up is 30mm z32 front and stock rears and have Hawk HP+ and thinking of purchasing the same ones. Any recommendations?
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:44 PM   #4648
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What are decent pads for street/track? Current set-up is 30mm z32 front and stock rears and have Hawk HP+ and thinking of purchasing the same ones. Any recommendations?
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:23 PM   #4649
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Are these fouled?



I can't figure out why my car won't idle right. At first it was making a "pop" like sound every few seconds, now it's more consistent, car shakes and all. I have -18~20 vac, just rewired the maf, cleaned the IACV and checked the plugs. when I try to rev it it sputters/nearly stalls till ~1500rpm then after that it revs like nothing is wrong.

Only two things I have changed on the car recently was putting on a new z maf and changing the spark plugs back in July 2010, I really haven't driven the car since. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:51 PM   #4650
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yep they are fouled, you must be running stupid rich or don't have the right plugs
might be an ignition problem as well
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