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Old 01-31-2010, 11:23 AM   #481
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With the combination of NRG's short hub and gen 2.5 quick release, is the steering wheel exactly in the OE position?



From the Nardi website:
(DEEP CORN)
350 mm = 80 mm offset
330 mm = 53 mm offset

Is this offset (concavity) the same for their entire lineup of concave wheels (i.e. Sport Rally), and is this measurement from outside face to outside face of the steering wheel?

Thanks
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Old 01-31-2010, 12:17 PM   #482
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Will the Hi-Throttle pulley wheel from the s14 SR be compatible with the S13 SR motor?

THIA...
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Old 01-31-2010, 11:59 PM   #483
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What is this black piece with square pattern behind the inner fender liner on the driver side? Can I hammer this piece?
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:59 AM   #484
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few random questions:

Does any of the front light (bricks, turns, park) wiring on an S13 Silvia, use the same plugs/connectors as the the S13 240?

Are power steering pumps (RB25 specifically) gravity fed? I.E. does the resivoir have to be higher than the pump or is being at or slightly above ok?
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:14 AM   #485
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What is the warning light that looks like a little chevy emblem with lines above it. Located to the right of the gas light?
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:56 AM   #486
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what do u guys think about race ons BN sports replica and most HP made on a kade with a gt28
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:27 AM   #487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc240 View Post
What is the warning light that looks like a little chevy emblem with lines above it. Located to the right of the gas light?
that light indicates that your cat is overheating and you need to have it checked out. i first thought it was a engine overheating light when i saw it, but i later found out that it's tied into the temperature sensor that runs to the cat. if you dont have the cat anymore then dont even worry about it.
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:56 AM   #488
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Originally Posted by NINJASPY View Post
are ka24de truck blocks the same as s14 blocks?
I found a brand new bare shortblock for sale.
No. Frontier KA24DE's have the distributor in the block, not in the head.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:22 AM   #489
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where do I get JUST the harness to put a blitz DTT DC in my Ca powered S13? I got it out of a STi that got traded in so I still have that harness as well.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:26 AM   #490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E Double View Post
that light indicates that your cat is overheating and you need to have it checked out. i first thought it was a engine overheating light when i saw it, but i later found out that it's tied into the temperature sensor that runs to the cat. if you dont have the cat anymore then dont even worry about it.
Thanks, first time Ive seen that indicator on a cluster. I didnt know that the car had a cat temp sensor, should it still be accurate with the Sr blacktop swap with a E5 ECU?
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:00 PM   #491
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Will a s13 FLCA work on a s14?
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:50 PM   #492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc240 View Post
Thanks, first time Ive seen that indicator on a cluster. I didnt know that the car had a cat temp sensor, should it still be accurate with the Sr blacktop swap with a E5 ECU?
i suppose it should be, i would assume that the temperature at which the sensor would alarm is the same for both redtops and blacktops. I am not sure though. i had a cat delete pipe and the sensor was cut.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:55 PM   #493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc240 View Post


What is the warning light that looks like a little chevy emblem with lines above it. Located to the right of the gas light?
I think it's a stock exhaust gas temp light. It came on one time at the track when my car was getting a bit hot.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:33 AM   #494
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This only happened once but, when I was stopped my tach gauge went CRAZY, and started bouncing from 1-3k, and my turn signal went into warp speed, but after around 10 seconds or so it slowed and went to normal.

Loose wire? Bad fuse?
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Old 02-02-2010, 06:19 AM   #495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240sxChillen View Post
Will a s13 FLCA work on a s14?
No, the control arm will be too short. You need S14 ones.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedEvilRPS13 View Post
where do I get JUST the harness to put a blitz DTT DC in my Ca powered S13? I got it out of a STi that got traded in so I still have that harness as well.
Any S13 harness will work. Interior harness is the same for CA, SR, and KA.

Blitz Turbo Timer Harness NS-04: No Limit Motorsport

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc240 View Post
Thanks, first time Ive seen that indicator on a cluster. I didnt know that the car had a cat temp sensor, should it still be accurate with the Sr blacktop swap with a E5 ECU?
I'm pretty sure that symbol is the JDM check engine light... is that a JDM cluster with a USDM speedo?

JDM gauges:



USDM gauges:



Edit, from the other thread, it is an exhaust temp sensor... it would only work if you have the exhaust temp sensor installed I guess:

Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Yeah on the S14 the OD light is a EXH.T Light with a Catalytic Converter as the icon. It's so you don't park the car on grass when the cat is hot.
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:22 AM   #496
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I just got done installing my second Grant steering wheel. I noticed that on both the adapters won't allow the steering shaft nut (the factory Nissan one) to tighten down at least flush with the top of the shaft like it should with the stock wheel. I have had the correct adapters from Grant. Im going to call them later and make them aware of this. Over time if you dont use thread locker the nut gets loose and you have to retighten it. Kinda scary. I guess since the Nissan factory shaft nut is collared, I could try using a non collared one to get some more threads in there. Anyone else experienced this, and what did you do?
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:39 AM   #497
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I never plugged anything in remotely close to being a exhaust temp sensor, from what I can remember. Ive done a couple of swaps, but nothing has been cut or plugged into the exhaust/cat area. Only thing around there is the tranny snesors and wiring.

Thanks, for all the responses though guys. im getting a test pipe today to try to solve the problem.
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:54 AM   #498
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can someone tell me where to buy the wood painted jdm steering wheels the ones that are dif. colors
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:55 AM   #499
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^Just look on here in the advertiser special section of the classifieds.
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:11 PM   #500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spring Break '92 View Post
I just got done installing my second Grant steering wheel. I noticed that on both the adapters won't allow the steering shaft nut (the factory Nissan one) to tighten down at least flush with the top of the shaft like it should with the stock wheel. I have had the correct adapters from Grant. Im going to call them later and make them aware of this. Over time if you dont use thread locker the nut gets loose and you have to retighten it. Kinda scary. I guess since the Nissan factory shaft nut is collared, I could try using a non collared one to get some more threads in there. Anyone else experienced this, and what did you do?
My grant steering wheel was loose too. Figured it was just a bad installation from the previous owner. I didnt notice the shaft/flush issue.
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:42 PM   #501
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What can I use to replace the stock "T" fitting on the S13 Redtop Motor? The diameter is 13mm inner and 15mm outer....really don't want to buy a whole valve cover for just this metal piece...
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:46 PM   #502
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I hope some one can help me answer this question. i just bought a bmagic s13.4 conversion a few weeks back and i am puzzeled on how to hook up the brackets that come with the kit. i have searched the web with a fine tooth comb, pm'd other zilvia members, but with no result. Dose any one know of some type of instruction or guide, write up i can use so that i can properly install the brackets to my s13?
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:36 PM   #503
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woohoo i can be a noob comfortably!

i am getting 16x10's made for my S13 coupe and i want to run a bit of stretch (thinking 215's) can someone please suggest a reasonable tire size and offset that will provide a flush look without too much rubbing??

that fitment thread has almosy NO 16's in it.
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Old 02-02-2010, 10:26 PM   #504
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those of you running 10mm slip on spacers..would that require extended studs?? or ok to use stock studs??
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:15 PM   #505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothix View Post
My grant steering wheel was loose too. Figured it was just a bad installation from the previous owner. I didnt notice the shaft/flush issue.
Oh DAMN. Well lucky you, cause when I went to install my Grant wood wheel today to replace the Grant that I had in there I could take the steering shaft nut off with my fingers. You can tighten it down with threadlocker but over time it will come loose. You will know when you feel play in the wheel, where there should be NONE. I am going to try to find a solution using a shorter, non-collared nut, one unlike the Nissan factory one and use a lock washer. If that doesnt work I have a 6 bolt 'JDM' hub adapter I will see if I can drill out to match the Grant 5 bolt pattern and use that.
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:23 PM   #506
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Does the KA use the same alternator brackets as the SR?

Basically what I need to know is this..

Is the hardware on the top of this picture (for SR):


the same as the hardware in this picture? (for KA, apparently)
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Old 02-03-2010, 08:54 AM   #507
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For those running KW variant 3's what top hats are you using? (im not so sure about my 10 year old stock ones )
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:35 AM   #508
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are s13 brake lines the same as s14 brake lines??
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:30 PM   #509
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^i was told that they are the same. but i am not 100% sure
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:00 PM   #510
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Quote:
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I never plugged anything in remotely close to being a exhaust temp sensor, from what I can remember. Ive done a couple of swaps, but nothing has been cut or plugged into the exhaust/cat area. Only thing around there is the tranny snesors and wiring.

Thanks, for all the responses though guys. im getting a test pipe today to try to solve the problem.
is the light actually on? in my 180SX after the sensor had been cut the light would randomly come on from time to time. i later troubleshot the problem and found out that the sensor wire that was left inside the car under the passenger seat was actually grounding itself out and causing the light to come on. the steel braiding on the outside of the sensor wire was touching the center conductor. i ended up peeling some some of the braiding back and cutting it so it would never ground out again. after that i never had that light pop back on. i dont know how it works out when you swap the motor into a USDM car, but if it is on and bothering you, and you dont even have the sensor running to your cat.....you can just take the bulb out and be done with it.
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