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Old 07-20-2018, 05:04 PM   #21991
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What is this? Would this affect my cars idle at all? Im trying to figure out why my car wont idle after rebuild and im assuming i dont have something plugged in right.


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Old 07-20-2018, 06:48 PM   #21992
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What is this? Would this affect my cars idle at all? Im trying to figure out why my car wont idle after rebuild and im assuming i dont have something plugged in right.


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That is a resistor for the auto trans valve bodies. Okay to delete if you did a manual swap, otherwise leave it. Shouldn't effect idle though.
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:40 PM   #21993
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My car come without liners, now have G fenders +35mm, anyone know if the oem liners fits well?
because are so expensive to try it ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Guard-Lin...0AAOSwCHBbKgwZ )
and i have the oil cooler in that place


thanks
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Old 07-22-2018, 10:14 PM   #21994
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Car runs crappy when cold, on decel it will not go full lean, my AF guage jumps up and down like crazy.. surges abit too when light throttle.. When WOT works fine and also works well once FULLY hot (ran for 15 min). Changed 02 sensor and cleaned MAF, IACV issue??

s13 SR20 with s15 turbo, z32 maf, enthalpy tune, 550cc

FIXED - Was the TPS, it was not seated properly or was just slightly not aligned properly. Adjusted it and works perfect now

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Old 07-23-2018, 09:11 PM   #21995
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Going up my driveway slowly, also at an angle, I hear a metal denting / popping sound from the rear but visually no damage when looking at the panels. It doesn't occur every time but is frequent and enough to worry me. I can also guarantee you nothing is rubbing / etc. My guesses are either just typical unibody flexing or bushings gone. But unsure if its something else.
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Old 07-24-2018, 05:09 AM   #21996
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Going up my driveway slowly, also at an angle, I hear a metal denting / popping sound from the rear but visually no damage when looking at the panels. It doesn't occur every time but is frequent and enough to worry me. I can also guarantee you nothing is rubbing / etc. My guesses are either just typical unibody flexing or bushings gone. But unsure if its something else.
Could be your front, could be lower rear control arms with old bushings next to those Godspeed arms, cradle bushings, or even your driveline/diff bushings/trans mount, engine mounts
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:19 AM   #21997
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https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oxyg...33-a31-c33-c34

This is the O2 sensor I need however I do not want to spend 200 dollars. Is there anyway (or anyone who can do it for me) who can show me how to find the equivalent bosche version or a cheaper alternative one.

Before anyone mentions it. Yes I know, typically the Z32 O2 sensor works for the RB20 but not for the preupdate ones.

Thanks.
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Old 07-24-2018, 04:32 PM   #21998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solo_ryder View Post
Car runs crappy when cold, on decel it will not go full lean, my AF guage jumps up and down like crazy.. surges abit too when light throttle.. When WOT works fine and also works well once FULLY hot (ran for 15 min). Changed 02 sensor and cleaned MAF, IACV issue??

s13 SR20 with s15 turbo, z32 maf, enthalpy tune, 550cc
Check the iacv.
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:17 PM   #21999
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Could be your front, could be lower rear control arms with old bushings next to those Godspeed arms, cradle bushings, or even your driveline/diff bushings/trans mount, engine mounts
Totally agree, it could be my steering wheel, my passenger seat falling apart, or even my floor mats. All be it maybe it could just be all my oem arms at their expiration date. Better luck next time
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Old 07-25-2018, 05:14 AM   #22000
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Totally agree, it could be my steering wheel, my passenger seat falling apart, or even my floor mats. All be it maybe it could just be all my oem arms at their expiration date. Better luck next time
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:00 AM   #22001
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For a 91 240sx I have the wires coming from the ecu that match that wiring diagram. At the connection point, between the ecu and dash had been spliced. The problem is the dangling wires from the ecu do not match up with the ones sticking out of the white connector. From what I can gather, the connector for these cars were brown, whilst mine is white. Does anyone have a picture of their connector to the dash that is similar to this one?

What my white connector looks like:


What others look like
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:04 AM   #22002
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alternator recommendations for a S14 ka24de?
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Old 07-25-2018, 10:07 AM   #22003
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Originally Posted by Xaser View Post
My car come without liners, now have G fenders +35mm, anyone know if the oem liners fits well?
because are so expensive to try it
Not sure if they fit. Though, if your front wheel wells are tubbed, i've seen people make their own liners out of plastic sheets with great success
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Old 07-25-2018, 11:03 AM   #22004
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My car come without liners, now have G fenders +35mm, anyone know if the oem liners fits well?
because are so expensive to try it ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Guard-Lin...0AAOSwCHBbKgwZ )
and i have the oil cooler in that place


thanks
There should be no reason why you'd pay that much for the liners. Nissan still sells them new for about $80 each.
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Old 07-25-2018, 01:08 PM   #22005
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Not sure if they fit. Though, if your front wheel wells are tubbed, i've seen people make their own liners out of plastic sheets with great success

Thanks mate!! ill do that!
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Old 07-25-2018, 01:09 PM   #22006
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There should be no reason why you'd pay that much for the liners. Nissan still sells them new for about $80 each.
when check in some nissan dealers, no one sells, FRPSport says a similar price too, but thanks for the tip, i gonna check on other dealers
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Old 07-25-2018, 05:14 PM   #22007
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1/8th ABS plastic sheets. Commonly used for Thermoforming.
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Old 07-26-2018, 05:06 PM   #22008
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I’m having some issues with my RB25DET cam angle sensor. I recently redid my timing belt, everything went together as it should and lines up, but I can’t get the car to start back up. It’s getting fuel and spark at the wrong time. The half moon on my camshaft has broken off, so I lined it up to where it should be and slid it in, still didn’t run. I put the engine at TDC, put the CAS to the TDC marks, still not firing. I am however getting some shotgun backfire and 6-8 foot flames out the tailpipe as I crank it. I’ve tried 2 different cam angle sensors as well, same results.

I’m not sure if this is related to the timing or if it’s an electrical issue or what. Any input would help a lot. Thanks!
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:20 AM   #22009
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The age old problem of diff clunk is currently haunting me. I have a solid driveshaft, solid subframe bushings and an lsd in the rear (not sure if native to the car or not).

The issue is whenever I shift gears or get on/off throttle I can feel the driveshaft spin up before it engages in the differential. Now, I was underneath the car and was checking play and the driveshaft will rotate a good quarter turn before I feel any resistance from the diff (engagement). As a result I think something is up with my diff, there is too much play and whenever the driveshaft applies torque there is play and clunks whenever there is engagement. I've read it could be remedied by shimming the diff input shaft, but I wanted to get some second opinions.

EDIT: I forgot to mention it begins to whine when putting lots of load, so like high throttle
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Old 07-28-2018, 01:42 AM   #22010
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just replace the diff...
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Old 07-28-2018, 01:48 AM   #22011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
The age old problem of diff clunk is currently haunting me. I have a solid driveshaft, solid subframe bushings and an lsd in the rear (not sure if native to the car or not).

The issue is whenever I shift gears or get on/off throttle I can feel the driveshaft spin up before it engages in the differential. Now, I was underneath the car and was checking play and the driveshaft will rotate a good quarter turn before I feel any resistance from the diff (engagement). As a result I think something is up with my diff, there is too much play and whenever the driveshaft applies torque there is play and clunks whenever there is engagement. I've read it could be remedied by shimming the diff input shaft, but I wanted to get some second opinions.

EDIT: I forgot to mention it begins to whine when putting lots of load, so like high throttle
Sounds like the ring and pinion are fucked up. Not something you can shim your way out of. You need to replace the diff or ring and pinion (recommend buying a used diff, but check the gears obviously)

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Old 07-28-2018, 06:45 AM   #22012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
The age old problem of diff clunk is currently haunting me. I have a solid driveshaft, solid subframe bushings and an lsd in the rear (not sure if native to the car or not).

The issue is whenever I shift gears or get on/off throttle I can feel the driveshaft spin up before it engages in the differential. Now, I was underneath the car and was checking play and the driveshaft will rotate a good quarter turn before I feel any resistance from the diff (engagement). As a result I think something is up with my diff, there is too much play and whenever the driveshaft applies torque there is play and clunks whenever there is engagement. I've read it could be remedied by shimming the diff input shaft, but I wanted to get some second opinions.

EDIT: I forgot to mention it begins to whine when putting lots of load, so like high throttle
KAAZ is inexpensive, and the conical from OBX Racing is inexpensive.
Drift, got 1.5 or 2 way. Daily, go with the OBXR or Nismo, may as well work up a set of 350Z axles too, they only go out a 1/2" per side so it'll be a good excuse for new offset wheels

Damn, that diff project just got expensive, didn't it?
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Old 07-28-2018, 07:56 AM   #22013
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KAAZ is inexpensive, and the conical from OBX Racing is inexpensive.
Drift, got 1.5 or 2 way. Daily, go with the OBXR or Nismo, may as well work up a set of 350Z axles too, they only go out a 1/2" per side so it'll be a good excuse for new offset wheels

Damn, that diff project just got expensive, didn't it?
Its one of those "while youre in there" type of moments
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:36 AM   #22014
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Im about to put some brakes on my recent project. I have 30mm Iron and some 26mm aluminum calipers to choose from.

Obviously I want to use the lighter 26mm stuff. However I can't find FOR THE LIFE OF ME How much does the 26mm Rotor WEIGHT in comparison to the 30mm rotor?

I went to every site I know of that details the 300zx swap and can't find 26mm rotor weight. Furthermore I went to rock auto and checked every manufacturer they all the say the same thing, 17.5lbs I think.

So is that true, 26mm rotors weight = 30mm rotor weight? Can't be! Say it aint so!
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:06 AM   #22015
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Its one of those "while youre in there" type of moments
Lolz!
That is the very same problem I have with my car. Star a project, then it hit! Throw money and hey, since we got in here, lets do A, B, C, fuck it! HAM!
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:20 AM   #22016
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Im about to put some brakes on my recent project. I have 30mm Iron and some 26mm aluminum calipers to choose from.

Obviously I want to use the lighter 26mm stuff. However I can't find FOR THE LIFE OF ME How much does the 26mm Rotor WEIGHT in comparison to the 30mm rotor?

I went to every site I know of that details the 300zx swap and can't find 26mm rotor weight. Furthermore I went to rock auto and checked every manufacturer they all the say the same thing, 17.5lbs I think.

So is that true, 26mm rotors weight = 30mm rotor weight? Can't be! Say it aint so!

And you already have both in your possession..?
Try weighing them.
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Old 07-29-2018, 12:08 PM   #22017
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And you already have both in your possession..?
Try weighing them.
I have the brakes but not the rotors. I need to know weight of ROTORS before I buy them. I have 30mm ROTORS just not 26mm ROTORS.

idgaf about weight on the front of the car that doesn't spin. I DO care if one set of rotors is 1lb+ difference in weight though, THAT makes me wet
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Old 07-29-2018, 12:28 PM   #22018
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, THAT makes me wet
Hahaha

In that case I would just weigh the rotors I have and then call around local stores to see who has 26mm* rotors in stock and bring a scale with me
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Old 07-29-2018, 02:14 PM   #22019
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Hahaha

In that case I would just weight the rotors I have and then call around local stores to see who has 30mm rotors in stock and bring a scale with me
huh now why didn't I think of that. Wow thats a fantastic idea if they actually have 26mm rotors in stock. I just assumed it wouldn't be a normally stocked item. It isn't, is it, your just messing with me right...

edit: I've been rethinking my original question. And I realized something.

The weight may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Sometimes a heavier rotor might be desirable.
I can't expect to weigh a random 26mm and have it exactly match the weight of the next one I happen to buy later. (Maybe I can but... I shouldn't expect this)
I think I know the next step

Last edited by Kingtal0n; 07-29-2018 at 05:42 PM..
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:31 PM   #22020
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That is the very same problem I have with my car. Star a project, then it hit! Throw money and hey, since we got in here, lets do A, B, C, fuck it! HAM!
Realistically I think Ill just get new old guts and replace mine.
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