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Old 01-25-2019, 03:01 PM   #22501
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Can you run a Fan clutch just by itself without the OEM fan shroud and OEM electric fan?
No. Its worthless with out the shroud.
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Old 01-25-2019, 04:01 PM   #22502
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No. Its worthless with out the shroud.
the shroud enclosure around the fan allows the van to create vacuum to pull air thru the radiator (it also helps to push air past the motor inside the engine bay to help cool it a bit). without the shroud, it will not create vacuum and will pull almost nothing thru the radiator.
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Old 01-26-2019, 08:06 AM   #22503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caspa View Post
Can you run a Fan clutch just by itself without the OEM fan shroud and OEM electric fan?
Spend the few hundred dollars for the fan, aluminum radiator, and shroud kit with a fan controller. Dual electric fans that both run at teh same time do not draw mechanical power from the engine, ie, no parasitic drag. One can literally sit in the hottest weather bumper to bumper traffic with this set up, and not overheat, it's that effective
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Old 01-26-2019, 07:13 PM   #22504
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Looking for longest out tie rod end that’ll work on a s14. I saw a thread with the entire lengths of different nissans but I’m looking for just ends. Installed GKTeck knuckles and ran out of adjustment on my ends. Not looking for angle, just an Nissan tie rod end that will work.
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Old 01-27-2019, 07:55 AM   #22505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afishysilvia View Post
Looking for longest out tie rod end that’ll work on a s14. I saw a thread with the entire lengths of different nissans but I’m looking for just ends. Installed GKTeck knuckles and ran out of adjustment on my ends. Not looking for angle, just an Nissan tie rod end that will work.
I used a Gates rebuild kit on my rack, and ISR inner and outer tie rods. I'm not hunting angle. I will tell you this though, there is something satisfactory about turning inside a half lane without any bump steer. Bonus is also way more fun at speed on twisty roads with this new 'quick steer'. Had to change out the entire steering box on my old 66 Mustang to get this!
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Old 01-27-2019, 03:30 PM   #22506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afishysilvia View Post
Looking for longest out tie rod end that’ll work on a s14. I saw a thread with the entire lengths of different nissans but I’m looking for just ends. Installed GKTeck knuckles and ran out of adjustment on my ends. Not looking for angle, just an Nissan tie rod end that will work.
'90 Maxima outer works and is 1" longer than S14.

There is also the GKTech outer that has 3 adjustable lengths: stock, +15mm, and +35mm.
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Old 01-27-2019, 04:33 PM   #22507
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Quote:
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'90 Maxima outer works and is 1" longer than S14.

There is also the GKTech outer that has 3 adjustable lengths: stock, +15mm, and +35mm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
I used a Gates rebuild kit on my rack, and ISR inner and outer tie rods. I'm not hunting angle. I will tell you this though, there is something satisfactory about turning inside a half lane without any bump steer. Bonus is also way more fun at speed on twisty roads with this new 'quick steer'. Had to change out the entire steering box on my old 66 Mustang to get this!
He ended up grabbing GK inners/outers.

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Old 01-29-2019, 12:26 AM   #22508
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Anyone with tomei 256 cams: what's your idle vacuum reading? All the threads I find are people with too low vacuum from installation errors. I wanted to see what actual readings are. Debating on a vacuum pump for the booster if it's really going to be too low. I can't imagine how bad since the 256 is super mild. Thanks in advance.

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Old 01-29-2019, 12:28 AM   #22509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
I used a Gates rebuild kit on my rack, and ISR inner and outer tie rods. I'm not hunting angle. I will tell you this though, there is something satisfactory about turning inside a half lane without any bump steer. Bonus is also way more fun at speed on twisty roads with this new 'quick steer'. Had to change out the entire steering box on my old 66 Mustang to get this!
Quote:
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'90 Maxima outer works and is 1" longer than S14.

There is also the GKTech outer that has 3 adjustable lengths: stock, +15mm, and +35mm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
He ended up grabbing GK inners/outers.

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Thanks guys for all the input, like mr.nismo said I went with GK inners and outers after he showed me the specs.
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Old 01-30-2019, 08:42 PM   #22510
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No idea if this is the correct spot for this but what ever happened to GTR Garage? I was always curious....
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Old 01-30-2019, 09:09 PM   #22511
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No idea if this is the correct spot for this but what ever happened to GTR Garage? I was always curious....
Out of business I guess. They haven’t posted anything on their FB, IG, or Twitter in over 2 years.
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Old 01-31-2019, 10:10 PM   #22512
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Does anyone happen to know the dimensions of the PBM HMIC? Looked all over the websites and can't find it...
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Old 02-01-2019, 07:33 AM   #22513
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Does anyone happen to know the dimensions of the PBM HMIC? Looked all over the websites and can't find it...
You can ask them by contacting, or you can get a 'scaled' ruler and simply measure it by the standard given: intake is 2.5", exit is 2.75"


Nominally about 7" tall, 3" thick, and 20" wide, but my scale is down with my knife stuff right now and I'm too lazy to measure a photo and have no reason to contact PBM
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Old 02-01-2019, 10:05 AM   #22514
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You can ask them by contacting, or you can get a 'scaled' ruler and simply measure it by the standard given: intake is 2.5", exit is 2.75"





Nominally about 7" tall, 3" thick, and 20" wide, but my scale is down with my knife stuff right now and I'm too lazy to measure a photo and have no reason to contact PBM


Good advice, thanks!
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:05 PM   #22515
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At what point can we actually start asking 10k+ for good condition, restored and lightly modified 240s? People always harp on folks selling cars for 7k+, but just curious on other people's opinions on this one.
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:16 PM   #22516
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At what point can we actually start asking 10k+ for good condition, restored and lightly modified 240s? People always harp on folks selling cars for 7k+, but just curious on other people's opinions on this one.
When inflation gets to the point people start paying it. Most people harping on prices weren't going to buy anything in the first place. Serious buyers slide into the DMs.
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Old 02-05-2019, 08:50 PM   #22517
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At what point can we actually start asking 10k+ for good condition, restored and lightly modified 240s? People always harp on folks selling cars for 7k+, but just curious on other people's opinions on this one.
If you want great feedback for this question move it to the “Official old grumpy assholes of zilvia” thread. Not calling you a grumpy old asshole lol, this is the actual name of the thread.
It’s a better thread for this question since they’ve brought up the subject of current price trends in the s-chassis community.
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Old 02-07-2019, 08:05 AM   #22518
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At what point can we actually start asking 10k+ for good condition, restored and lightly modified 240s? People always harp on folks selling cars for 7k+, but just curious on other people's opinions on this one.
We can ask $10k or even higher for well built, completely restored/modified 240's easily. In point of fact, within the past few years a very good specimen was sold in Washington for 9k. A rotisserie, fully painted, total restoration as in ALL brand new parts 1996 SE sold for 23k. A partially built Pro AM/Pro kouki sold for over 9k right here in mid TN where sellers according to local buyers add too much drift tax, and sellers state that buyers just are low balling fuck bois and I know what I got.
Sure parts, bushings, new built engines with all new parts on them, nice clean well done paint, all that adds up to over 10k. Add the total up, insuring all parts have been replaced to new standards or cleaned to a 10/10 state. On a clean titled car, subtract 25% and that is about what it will sell for nation wide. People drive across the country for 240's if they are done right, and that one person really wants that car.

Mine, when it was a beautiful BASF Onyx Red with orange pearl, a car that had been brought to the shop for work, liened on due to non payment becuase all work was not performed and owner fought and lost, was selling for 8k becuase new windows, killer paint, kouki tails...but the rub upon seeing this 8k car...

The tails leaked becuase not sealed right(at a BODY SHOP), and trunk was full of water.

Only steering rack, and front sway bar bushings were replaced, remainder of total kit was in the back seat.

Shop had actual 3500 investment into car.

I said FU to 8k and made a hard offer or 5500 on the phone. Upon inspection and seeing they lied I handed them 4500, or 1k profit.


Now, that car isn't worth 1500, no matter how much money I put into it becuase even though it has a clean title, it was rebuilt(go ahead, without knowledge or declaration, LOOK at the front of the car and you will think it was never wrecked. It was rebuilt to factory standards, seams and all(front damage, core forward). Who cares, not selling, dumping enough funds to meet cause for divorce levels into it, and by the time it IS done, I'll legit be around 35k into it and done. If I sell, it's still a 1500 car, so I'll have to add parts, paint, etc up, make sure yeah its all fucking new or replaced with new, drop 25% and put it out there with a huge amount of drift tax

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Old 02-09-2019, 05:08 PM   #22519
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Alright, been throwing around the idea of using Sentra SE-R Spec-V front calipers (factory brembos). I like how they're sized for a similar weighted vehicle, not super expensive, should fit most wheel applications, etc.

What I don't like is the idea of having to use rotors drilled out for 5 lug. These brakes have been around for awhile, and when guys first started using them that was the only option. Nowadays I'm wondering if there is a more elegant solution for this problem, anyone ever figure it out? I've done a little digging but can't come up with a match. The factory rotors are only 22mm thick, but decently sized, 305mm. Altima SE-R rotors are too large and too thick (26mm iirc), and everything else is either too small or too large, and that's before I even get onto rotor hat depth.

For some reason tonight wilwoods website isn't loading, which is a shame because they have so much information to the public. Searched zilvia..nothing I could find, but maybe someone else knows.
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Old 02-10-2019, 09:36 AM   #22520
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Alright, been throwing around the idea of using Sentra SE-R Spec-V front calipers (factory brembos). I like how they're sized for a similar weighted vehicle, not super expensive, should fit most wheel applications, etc.

What I don't like is the idea of having to use rotors drilled out for 5 lug. These brakes have been around for awhile, and when guys first started using them that was the only option. Nowadays I'm wondering if there is a more elegant solution for this problem, anyone ever figure it out? I've done a little digging but can't come up with a match. The factory rotors are only 22mm thick, but decently sized, 305mm. Altima SE-R rotors are too large and too thick (26mm iirc), and everything else is either too small or too large, and that's before I even get onto rotor hat depth.

For some reason tonight wilwoods website isn't loading, which is a shame because they have so much information to the public. Searched zilvia..nothing I could find, but maybe someone else knows.
I just micc'd a pair of NEW Unused 97 (Kouki) rotors at 25.2mm, 5 lug. Post July 1996 all rotors should be one size, this size(ABS size). Pre July 96 non ABS is a tad smaller
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:29 AM   #22521
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Im in the processing of trying to rebuild my 3 piece wheels, and Im stuck at step 1 which is breaking the hardware loose. The nuts in the back of the face just wont break loose and I was wondering if anyone had some tips for breaking them loose. Would PB Blaster help?


I believe it is common to use locktite on the assembly hardware when building 3 piece builds, and I believe mine may be loctited. Ive read that applying heat may help. Anyone with experience please chime in.
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:33 AM   #22522
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what about the size of the face?
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:50 AM   #22523
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what about the size of the face?
Sorry, but is this referring to my question?
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:48 PM   #22524
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Does anybody know the dimensions of the S13 silvia aero bumper vents? I recently purchased a Bomex bumper that looks identical to the aero bumper, and was curious if the OE vents would fit.
I know DorkiDori makes them, so I'm assuming he would know.
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:49 PM   #22525
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Double post

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Old 02-12-2019, 12:47 AM   #22526
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Does anybody know the dimensions of the S13 silvia aero bumper vents? I recently purchased a Bomex bumper that looks identical to the aero bumper, and was curious if the OE vents would fit.
I know DorkiDori makes them, so I'm assuming he would know.
message me via www.facebook.com/dorkidoriclothing

also, send me pics of this bumper
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Old 02-12-2019, 07:25 AM   #22527
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what about the size of the face?
https://www.moddit.com/Answers/View/...x+brake+rotors
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Old 02-12-2019, 10:43 AM   #22528
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Im looking for threads on degreeing cams for sr20 (BC 264/264). Unable to find much with the search function...
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:52 PM   #22529
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Old 02-13-2019, 03:12 AM   #22530
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Suggestion For MIG Welder

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Originally Posted by Suzann T. Lyons View Post
Thanks for sharing your experience. I will now definitely buy a leather protector to stay safe from any such burns. One more thing about the welder. I found this https://topreviewedten.com/best-mig-welder/. Is any of these MIG Welder, Handheld, 120VAC, LOTOS MIG175 175AMPmentioned in this list worth buying? If not then can you suggest some options?
I will suggest you buy Hobart 500559 Handler 140 MIG Welder (110V) as gas valve supports most gas materials And it Works with mild and stainless steel materials alike. I also have the same and I have bought it from here: https://www.bestreviewslist.com/best-mig-welder/ You can check out two more which I think having the exact quality like Hobart 500559, 1. Lincoln Electric PRO-MIG 180 (220V) 2. Everlast PowerMIG 200 (220V)
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