Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Drew_kar

Hey guys.

I am in the process of swapping my USDM Kouki front bumper to the J-spec bumper cover. My car is a 97 MY. I ordered the OEM j-spec amber signals. Is this plug and play, or will I have to do some wiring? I have seen threads on this topic but its usually Zenki to Kouki bumper swaps. Let me know if you guys know anything on this or could lead me to a thread on this topic. Thanks!

You have to move some connectors around. I think I used the grey connector from the side marker. Just look and it should be pretty obvious which connectors you need to cut and splice.

[s13louren]

Quick question!

I currently run a S13 240sx with stock calipers and am in the process of upgrading to an inline hydro ebrake setup. A friend has a BM-44 15/16 master cylinder (which he pulled from a Z32) laying around that has 4 ports, which I would like to use to eliminate a T in the hard brake lines.

I have been reading conflicting reports on various forums, some saying the the brake bias will be too rear heavy on a S13 and some saying they run that BMC on their S13 without issues.

Anyone able to offer any insight and help me out? Thanks in advance.

[Thursday7]

I feel this question is kinda stupid for my knowledge level, but what are people's opinions on running an NTK TPS for a KA? At this point I'd trust it more than a stinky old used one, but I've been told to stay OE for sensors. What do people think?

[I'm Redline]

240 down for LIMP MODE

OK heres the online diagnosis for you guys(HAHAHAHAHA)
240 goes into limp mode upon starting
MAF, MAF wires are good, plug is connected well.
Car was ran low on oil, changed, ran fine for a minute, then back to limp
I checked it made sure everything was tight, checked the fsm, but can find nothing.

Yes it needs to go get plugged in.
My first guess after sleeping on it is a bad oil pressure sensor. Would that cause limp mode?

[I'm Redline]

240 down for LIMP MODE

OK heres the online diagnosis for you guys(HAHAHAHAHA)
240 goes into limp mode upon starting
MAF, MAF wires are good, plug is connected well.
Car was ran low on oil, changed, ran fine for a minute, then back to limp
I checked it made sure everything was tight, checked the fsm, but can find nothing.

Yes it needs to go get plugged in.
My first guess after sleeping on it is a bad oil pressure sensor. Would that cause limp mode?

[Thursday7]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

240 down for LIMP MODE

OK heres the online diagnosis for you guys(HAHAHAHAHA)
240 goes into limp mode upon starting
MAF, MAF wires are good, plug is connected well.
Car was ran low on oil, changed, ran fine for a minute, then back to limp
I checked it made sure everything was tight, checked the fsm, but can find nothing.

Yes it needs to go get plugged in.
My first guess after sleeping on it is a bad oil pressure sensor. Would that cause limp mode?

Knowingwhich engine you have would be nice.

Check for ECU codes. Oil pressure switch won't cause anything.

[LoSt180]

You should really get a cheap consult cable and ask the ecu directly. It'll tell you what's wrong instead of throwing parts at a guess.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

You should really get a cheap consult cable and ask the ecu directly. It'll tell you what's wrong instead of throwing parts at a guess.

It's my buddy's stock 97 kouki. He's a 240 newb, and me I know a bit more, enough to know not to throw parts at it guessing. He's going to take it to get checked for codes, but hasn't got back to me becuase two jobs, long shifts so I figured I'd throw it out here to see if anyone else has had the problem and it's known solutions

[Lock-kime]

Sorry new to the 240s. It’s hard to tell with searching images figured I would just come here and ask because everyone here will probably know. Love the s13 coupe, but when the front is converted to look like the s14 or s15 is there any other body differences besides the front end? Like is the rest of the body slightly rounded more than the S13 ? The reason I am asking is because there is currently two shells I am going to go look at, one being the S13 coupe and the other the S14.

For example if both cars had the S15 conversion would they look the same? I Just wasn’t sure if my eyes were playing tricks on me or if the S13 has a little sharper edges?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Lock-kime

Sorry new to the 240s. It’s hard to tell with searching images figured I would just come here and ask because everyone here will probably know. Love the s13 coupe, but when the front is converted to look like the s14 or s15 is there any other body differences besides the front end? Like is the rest of the body slightly rounded more than the S13 ? The reason I am asking is because there is currently two shells I am going to go look at, one being the S13 coupe and the other the S14.

For example if both cars had the S15 conversion would they look the same? I Just wasn’t sure if my eyes were playing tricks on me or if the S13 has a little sharper edges?

S14 is slightly wider than S13 and has rounded body lines. S14 has a wider wheel track than the S13 and the S15 has the same track as the RPS13 or 180SX

Ive seen S13 coupe's with S15 and S14 Kouki front ends, and I've seen S14's with S13 front ends with pop ups. Want teh sexiest conversion? Strawberry face Hatch!(S15 front on hatch). Just google image Sil80(Silvia/Hatch), Strawberry face conversion S13, S14 and see a bunch of images

[Lock-kime]

Thank you so much! Just purchased an s13!

[LoSt180]

Anyone know the thread and pitch size of the banjo bolt for the turbo water return line going into the S14 water neck? Pretty sure I stripped half the threads trying to get this stupid line re-attached and wanted to see if I can find a tap/die on the way home from work and left the bolt on my workbench.

Edit: I just ordered a new one.

[Jacob Butler]

What's more reliable for 300hp ka-t or sr20?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

What's more reliable for 300hp ka-t or sr20?

good compression SR. SRs easily handle 400+hp on stock block with minor upgrades and a solid tune.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

good compression SR. SRs easily handle 400+hp on stock block with minor upgrades and a solid tune.

SR requires ROCKER STOPS, or POP goes the Head, then POOF goes the block(SR blows becuase rockers give up hence that nasty death rattle you hear as valvetrain dies, then compression has no where to go and poof, out that nice aluminum block). It can happen revving UP, or deceleration down. The only issue with an SR really. Aside from that, the little square bore revs like a maniac and sounds good doing it NA or Turbo. Side note, NA SR's have better cams than Turbo cams.
KAT at 300hp, easy on stock internals but please don't be a fuck boi and run T on 20 year old rings. Your shit won't be reliable very long..

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

SR requires ROCKER STOPS, or POP goes the Head, then POOF goes the block(SR blows becuase rockers give up hence that nasty death rattle you hear as valvetrain dies, then compression has no where to go and poof, out that nice aluminum block). It can happen revving UP, or deceleration down. The only issue with an SR really. Aside from that, the little square bore revs like a maniac and sounds good doing it NA or Turbo.

hence why i said "minor upgrades"

basically, SRs with good compression require A LOT less work to make larger numbers on reliably than a KA.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

SR requires ROCKER STOPS, or POP goes the Head, then POOF goes the block(SR blows becuase rockers give up hence that nasty death rattle you hear as valvetrain dies,..

rocker stoppers are cheap
https://www.enjukuracing.com/product...RoCyn8QAvD_BwE

ALSO, the biggest reason people break rockers in the first place is because of:
-sitting on the limiter
-mis-shift and over-rev

otherwise rockers don't just break on their own.

[johnschmitz25]

What's the going rate for an authentic Kouki S14 wing excluding shipping costs? Thinking about selling mine and I don't want to ask an unfair price.

[Agamemnon]

Originally Posted by johnschmitz25

What's the going rate for an authentic Kouki S14 wing excluding shipping costs? Thinking about selling mine and I don't want to ask an unfair price.

Assuming that its in decent condition and the bottom hasn't been ripped out, I would say $200.

[johnschmitz25]

Originally Posted by Agamemnon

Assuming that its in decent condition and the bottom hasn't been ripped out, I would say $200.

Sounds good to me. Thanks for the input!

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by johnschmitz25

Sounds good to me. Thanks for the input!

Better hurry and sell it, JDM kouki is on the way, Zenki is already here so USDM prices are dropping like rocks when you can get a nice stock SR powered car for under $15k, many already with minor mods, or replaced bushings etc

[G-Sep]

Where is everyone getting their MAP signal from with a stock red top intake manifold? Going full standalone this summer.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by G-Sep

Where is everyone getting their MAP signal from with a stock red top intake manifold? Going full standalone this summer.

signal? stock red top doesn't come with a map sensor, so you have to add one. I've seen plenty of people use a GM 3bar map sensor, and either drill and tap the manifold, or use a vacuum source from the throttle body that provides manifold pressure

[G-Sep]

Originally Posted by brndck

signal? stock red top doesn't come with a map sensor, so you have to add one. I've seen plenty of people use a GM 3bar map sensor, and either drill and tap the manifold, or use a vacuum source from the throttle body that provides manifold pressure

Yes of course. I am going with a full standalone that has a built in MAP sensor in the ecu itself (ECUMaster Black), so getting rid of the MAF.

So the easiest solution is to go with a vacuum source off the throttle body, but the better solution is to drill and tap the manifold, correct? I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the manifold but it seems there's no other way. I shouldn't tee off the FPR vac line, and the BOV vac line doesn't seem to be a good constant source.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by G-Sep

So the easiest solution is to go with a vacuum source off the throttle body, but the better solution is to drill and tap the manifold, correct? I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the manifold but it seems there's no other way. I shouldn't tee off the FPR vac line, and the BOV vac line doesn't seem to be a good constant source.

imo the best solution is a direct port into the manifold. its not THAT difficult to remove a sr20 manifold. good time to install something like this
https://www.enjukuracing.com/product...t-sr20det.html

[ZenkiKid]

Anybody else notice how much the price of SR motorsets have skyrocketed over the years?

Its like $3k for a complete motorset now.

Thats around the same price of doing a junkyard LSX build nowadays.

[dorkidori_s13]

thats cause theyre getting rare in their homeland. its VERY difficult to find a complete low mileage and clean motor set for anything under $2000 in Japanland these days.

the days of cheap SRs are long over. too many people blowing motors and trashing their cars has finally come to a head as "supply in demand" is 100% taking over

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

thats cause theyre getting rare in their homeland. its VERY difficult to find a complete low mileage and clean motor set for anything under $2000 in Japanland these days.

the days of cheap SRs are long over. too many people blowing motors and trashing their cars has finally come to a head as "supply in demand" is 100% taking over

There were a few good ones made for the other vehicles that are just sitting there though.
If you want to wait, what's wrong with a low miles S13(PS, RPS, 180SX) to S14a? Already has an SR in it, and for 10k, you can choose between legit JDM, or be that cool guy at the track with a drift vette

[aymaeid]

Hows the fitment of the ebay s14 kouki wing?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/95-98-Fits-...frcectupt=true

[jumpman2334]

Originally Posted by ZenkiKid

Anybody else notice how much the price of SR motorsets have skyrocketed over the years?

Its like $3k for a complete motorset now.

Thats around the same price of doing a junkyard LSX build nowadays.

supply and demand. very simple concept.