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Old 07-14-2007, 10:46 AM   #31
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Wow you guys are idiots... I'm hating? I thought this was informative thread on how to paint a car? This asshat throws up some shit about spray painting a fucking car and you all jump on his back? Because my car is yellow? Why because I had the time and patience to make my paintjob quality? The car does have power and full suspension and is more modified than any of your cars and I built it out of my spare parts at my shop... I'm sorry if you broke faggots can't afford to spend more than $50 on a paint job. This is what I get for trying to help you fucking fanboys out.
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Old 07-14-2007, 11:00 AM   #32
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Seriously guys, knock it the fuck off. cfinch, you stepped in with some decent info and gave a nice run down of materials and methods. I liked it. Then someone else posts another method and you completely trash him. I appreciate you adding info, but there was no need to add the drama.

Everyone needs to calm down, and not get so wrapped around the axle about what other people are doing with their cars. My car has been without paint for over 4 years now. I hate not having real paint, but I like my rattlecanned P.O.S. at the same time. To each his own.
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Old 07-14-2007, 11:14 AM   #33
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Yeah but did you need someone to explain how to use a spray paint can on your car and not prep it? This thread got flooded with ignorance... Which is why I always say zilvia is packed full of morons... This thread explains my theory perfectly. This is why people on contribute garbage on this forum cause the people who are skilled enough at what they do know better than to waste their time. It's all good though I'll stop in this thread... I helped a couple people in pm get their cars painted and contributed... Never again...
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Old 07-14-2007, 07:53 PM   #34
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Yeah but did you need someone to explain how to use a spray paint can on your car and not prep it? This thread got flooded with ignorance... Which is why I always say zilvia is packed full of morons... This thread explains my theory perfectly. This is why people on contribute garbage on this forum cause the people who are skilled enough at what they do know better than to waste their time. It's all good though I'll stop in this thread... I helped a couple people in pm get their cars painted and contributed... Never again...
word .
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Old 07-14-2007, 07:56 PM   #35
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The car does have power and full suspension and is more modified than any of your cars and I built it out of my spare parts at my shop... I'm sorry if you broke faggots can't afford to spend more than $50 on a paint job. This is what I get for trying to help you fucking fanboys out.
I need a hysterical laughter smiley. Guess that'll do...
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Old 07-15-2007, 02:08 AM   #36
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I need a hysterical laughter smiley. Guess that'll do...

Why? Because of the fact that cfinch looks like he knows what he is doing? He was just trying to show how to PROPERLY paint a car for a few hundred dollars.

cfinch: Thanks, I'll be painting my car here shortly and I might get a hold of you for a few tips. In this thread you seem to know the most about painting a car.
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Old 07-15-2007, 02:23 AM   #37
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The OMG my car is more modified than any of your cars was hysterical. Hello and welcome to 2nd grade.
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Old 07-15-2007, 06:57 AM   #38
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Koopa, I said knock it off. That means STFU and stop trying to continue the drama. I do not like having to repeat myself.
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:55 PM   #39
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I think people that are on a budget should do this. I spent 5k on my paint, i wish i wouldn't have. It slowed down my project big time. I don't regret painting it, the timing was just off. Paint should be like the icing on the cake get everything done the send it of to paint.

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Old 08-13-2007, 02:07 PM   #40
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word..
well, $500 or $50,000
does it really matter? as long as it looks good and holds up well?

I don't think the cost is the issue as much than the actual quality of the paint job.

cfinch contributed good advice, and primer/sealer IS something to take into consideration on any paintjob, whether the clear/existing is in tip top condition or is faded and peeling.

+1 for cfinch and op.
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Old 08-17-2007, 01:16 AM   #41
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I mean I'm not even talking the best quality materials... If you really want to put enough effort into it then you can get great results. There are alot of factors in painting a car. The biggest thing I've come upon is a good booth. I'm searching for perfection tho... Alittle dust or lint isn't going to be that noticable but if you know it's there than it is. I just painted my new track car over the past few days and man was it hell... I had to sand for 2 days to remove the single stage paint that was on the car. I knew it wasn't prepped properly underneath and went at it. Then the heat was a battle too cause your fighting to get the paint/clear thick enough to lay flat but it's still drying fast even with slow hardeners and whatnot...

In the end it's all good cause I can just sand out imperfections... I mean a bodyshop can charge $1,500 for just a base/clear and thats not top qaulity product or any finish work... Yeah if I had a good booth I could spray a car and have it look great without any finish sanding but it always helps. $500 is a great alternative to that if your not looking for perfection... You did it yourself too so you know it's right. You can't tell how a car is prepped underneath... Being able to pressure wash your car when it gets dirty and the biggest thing for me is I don't have to go through layers when I repaint. A color on a car wont last me too long so I definately don't want to spend body shop money and I don't need show qaulity so it works...

I got some rough numbers too... The paint along with catalyst and everything was roughly $120 and that was 1 1/2 gallons sprayable once you mix it. That was for just a basic color no metallic. The clear came out to $110 with everything which was xtreme clearcoat. The primer was $65 so yeah thats your material costs... Maybe I'll put up some pictures of the paint on the car I just painted... I took the time to sand it heavily before I buffed it out and I can see my reflection in the side of it like a mirror it just took alot of work...
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Old 08-17-2007, 08:03 AM   #42
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So what would be the process if you wanted to say, do your own lavender frost metallic? Does the metallic go in with the paint?

Are any colors harder to do on your own then others? Lights? Darks? Metallics?
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Old 08-17-2007, 08:21 AM   #43
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Id like to see pics cfinch. Post em up when you get a chance.
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Old 08-17-2007, 12:21 PM   #44
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When you spray a metallic it comes in the base coat... Even for a beginner it's fairly simple to spray on evenly just take your time. Darker colors show more imperfections so they are always harder to do but prep work is what makes the biggest difference in the finished product.

I wish I didn't lose my camera I would have taken pics... I sprayed my car at a friends shop. They got an old booth for spraying furniture and it's pretty gross. But it's a room with ventilation and I can get paint everywhere no sweat. The dust from being in the desert combined with the sawdust in the shop cause they build walls for homes now is just nasty... I sprayed everything seperate on the car and got lazy so I set the doors on the ground and they looked disgusting... Covered in shit and lint... There is still some imperfections in the door but you can barely even tell. Thats the best part is I messed up pretty bad and I just sanded and buffed the door and it looks nearly perfect. I'll work on getting a camera and take a couple pics later...
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Old 08-17-2007, 12:32 PM   #45
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Any specific brands you recommend? PPG? I know nothing of paint the actual paint, but I am pretty good at laying it down (used to be a graff artist soo...).

If I want a OEM Nissan color, do I just get the paint code and I can get that from any paint company? A friend of mine works for Shermin Williams and he said it gets a pretty good discount on auto paint.
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Old 08-17-2007, 03:59 PM   #46
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Any paint store should have books for every year make and model... Just go through them and find the color you want and have them make it. I haven't played around with different brands yet... I've been using Nason which is a Dupont product and is pretty much their cheap paint. I'm able to create great finishes with it but I dunno how long it will last... For a track car it doesn't really matter to me tho...

If you already know how to lay down the paint than that makes a big difference. You got to get the paint thick without running it so it settles flat. The thicker you lay it the better the finished product. I've done a few cars now and I've got it down so good I rarely run and can lay it super thick... I go easy on the base coat and can usually get great coverage out of 2 coats then with the clear I run a light coat then let it get tacky and then a medium to build it up then I go heavy. I give myself plenty of clear that way I can run it and it's not bad. Also when your pushing yourself to make it thicker and allowing it to run it will help alot figuring out how far you can push it. I'd try spraying on something for practice first anyways...

Also try drinking a couple beers... Help calm the nerves if your not totally comfortable. Plus you get to drink beers!
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Old 08-17-2007, 06:07 PM   #47
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haha,
I tried this at home with a single stage piece-of-shit ebay paint.

It was DEFINITELY a learning experience!
I fucked up here and there, and my gun being a piece of crap didn't help much either!

I used a 1.4mm tip on a single stage paint.. I thought that's what you're supposed to use, but it didn't spray completely "cigar", so i have a few spots where it's darker than the other. Keep in mind this was: "Cherry red metallic" color. Which was bullshit to the max, because it was more PINK than Cherry Red!

The final result was an utter shit (color wise) IMHO, but i'll have to live with it (or the buyer will have to live with it). I prepped as best as I can, but didn't have alot of tools to make it easier.

For instance, on pulling dents out on the body, I wished I had a stud welder, but it was way too expensive for the budget I'd set aside for the paint + materials. I had leftover PPG LACQUER primer and just used that.
Worked decent, and this was a very budgeted paint job.

Main things I learned by doing this was the painting technique, not stopping the spray in middle of the body (where it'd build up/runs) and that I dont necessarily have to sand the shit out of the primer to make it 100% flat. Paint still covered the 280/320 grit sandpaper marks I had left behind. I actually wet-sanded the primer with 1500 in vain, because there was no difference!

Also.. some kind of enclosement and proper ventilation is a MUST! I had bugs and shit fly into my paint because I painted outside without any tarps for a makeshift booth. VENT is a must! Dont paint without it!
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Old 08-18-2007, 03:08 AM   #48
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single stage just isn't worth the effort... With clear you can just sand out imperfections... 1.4 is pretty good for most stuff. I'm spraying primer with a 1.7 and i wanna buy another gun with a 1.3 tip so I have a seperate gun for everything...
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Old 08-18-2007, 05:46 PM   #49
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Definitely not worth it.
Only reason I had purchased single stage was since I was going to sell the car, but now I have a busted ass engine.

I recovered it from a theft and am currently trying to rebuild it.. trying to find a KA24DE in the GA area for cheap so I can get rid of this damn thing, but its one problem after another! (Anyone in GA have a cheap, decent KA24DE longblock?)

BTW. Why does my gun leak?..
I once dipped the entire gun in lacquer thinner because I had gotten it on the handle and the screw area, but ever since, it's been leaking.

I need to get a decent spray gun.. recommendations?
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Old 08-18-2007, 07:54 PM   #50
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I actually recommended a upol gun and put an ebay link in here... I've been using them and they aren't the best but they work great! If your not painting much it will be the perfect gun for you!
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:32 AM   #51
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not stopping the spray in middle of the body (where it'd build up/runs)
I can tell you that that is pretty much a technique issue right there.
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Old 08-20-2007, 11:26 AM   #52
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^What do you recommend?
I tried but it just didnt work out for me..
First time painter.. I need to leeeearn.

Maybe let off the trigger slowly and away from the car?
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Old 08-20-2007, 11:49 AM   #53
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^What do you recommend?
I tried but it just didnt work out for me..
First time painter.. I need to leeeearn.

Maybe let off the trigger slowly and away from the car?
When you spray you actually start away from the car and then sweep it across then away from the car again. Side to side.

Here is an extremely crude drawing to show what I mean.

See this way when you spray the overlapping parts are thinner then the center of your spray stroke.



I'm no pro, but maybe cfinch can correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 08-20-2007, 07:13 PM   #54
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Ohh.
I see what you mean.

Another person told me to keep the gun at an equal distance when spraying, so I just kept at that, and like I said, by doingso, overlapped areas were darker than the un-overlapped.

But I see what you're saying.. and that seems to be a better idea!
Sweep in, spray linearly and the sweep out, instead of cutting the paint right at the end.

I SEE!
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Old 08-22-2007, 12:23 AM   #55
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It's really alot of trial and error... Just take it easy and you can overlap it thick it will all settle... Just watch the distance you are for the car typically getting too close it really what will cause the runs. I say practice spraying too thick on useless panels or something so you can really get a feel for it. As long as you got a really good idea of whats too thick you know your limits. Right now I can just look at the paint as it's being sprayed on and just tell... I just sprayed some parts for a streetbike today and I was laying the clear on sooo thick without running it that it was just laying down like glass and needs no finish sanding at all! Just practice and mess with it... My first few cars I ran the clear bad in alot of spots but I didn't care cause they sanding it out and it really helped me get comfortable spraying it on thick.
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:40 AM   #56
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Yeah, when I sprayed it "thicker" on my fenders, I got alot more gloss and depth to the paint.
unlike when I painted the body, it came out pretty dull because I was afraid of messing it up.

Looks like I'll be going at it again in a few weeks!
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Old 08-28-2007, 01:10 AM   #57
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Alright I took a couple quick pics but didn't really get any good ones... I'm not done buffing either but you guys will get the idea. I'm gonna put the car back together sometime in the next couple weeks and get better ones.

The doors looked horrible pre sand/buff. Set it too close to the ground and the booth I sprayed in was nasty so it was covered in lint... Next time I spray I'm gonna actually replace the nasty vent filters. Here is the door after sanding and buffing still needs a finish buff...



And here is the side in some light... same thing sanded, buffed but still needing 1 final buffing... I didn't fix the dings since I'm going over fender...

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Old 08-28-2007, 01:11 AM   #58
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These pictures are terrible... Here is one more I got but I'll have pictures of the car assembled in daylight in a couple weeks which will be 10 times better because these do the paint no justice...

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Old 08-28-2007, 08:32 AM   #59
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Looks smoove.
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Old 08-28-2007, 06:14 PM   #60
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is metallic look in the paint or is it in the clear coat?
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