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Old 01-18-2020, 06:41 PM   #1
Super_OK_S13
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S13 Silvia 1991+ SR20DE(T) Wiring Diagrams

Been here for a while... decided to (hopefully) contribute to the forum in a helpful way in this post!!

Long story short, when i bought my front clip to convert and use the RHD wiring, i couldn't for the life of me find a chassis/body wire diagram for the S13 Silvia. so, after searching, and searching, and searching, i decided to ask a guy using translate through DM's who, if you are an instagram user you might recognize- miyamiyamiya2142



He wrote back a link on BUYEE of a re-production Electrical FSM. So I bought it and waited till it arrived...

DSC_9425 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

FOLDOUT
DSC_9418 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

DSC_9417 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

ENGINE BAY SECTION(lights/power/relay/engine harness)
DSC_9421 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

DASH BAR
DSC_9422 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

CABIN/REAR
DSC_9424 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

ROOF/POWER DOORS
DSC_9423 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr


ECCS SR20 DET HARNESS
DSC_9419 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

ECCS SR20 DE HARNESS
DSC_9420 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

Mods, sorry if this is in the wrong section.

You can download pics off of flickr at 6000x4000 resolution. Hope this can help many others!!

-Jimmy
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Old 01-19-2020, 02:54 PM   #2
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Very nice thanks
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Old 01-20-2020, 08:22 AM   #3
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Old 09-27-2021, 12:45 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Super_OK_S13 View Post
Is it possible to get a better quality picture of the fuse box and pin out locations.

trying to diagnose why I loose 12v going into the A/C relay and at the same time my power mirrors stop working. Sporadically, been running A'C by wiring a switch straight into A/C clutch for now
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Old 10-04-2021, 03:22 PM   #5
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Is it possible to get a better quality picture of the fuse box and pin out locations.

trying to diagnose why I loose 12v going into the A/C relay and at the same time my power mirrors stop working. Sporadically, been running A'C by wiring a switch straight into A/C clutch for now
Hi !

If you click the link for the specific picture, ( DSC_9418 ) it will bring you to the picture on flickr. On the bottom right side of the picture/menu is a down arrow, click that and download the 6000x4000 resolution to your device. when zoomed in the plugs and location/wire colors are still pretty clear..


im not sure how close the circuits would be together, if its something for the DCC/HVAC controls and the power mirrors they do run along the dash bar and could be rubbed through somewhere? the dash bar is a giant ground...

-Jimmy
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Old 10-04-2021, 04:45 PM   #6
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Old 10-05-2021, 11:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Hi !

If you click the link for the specific picture, ( DSC_9418 ) it will bring you to the picture on flickr. On the bottom right side of the picture/menu is a down arrow, click that and download the 6000x4000 resolution to your device. when zoomed in the plugs and location/wire colors are still pretty clear..


im not sure how close the circuits would be together, if its something for the DCC/HVAC controls and the power mirrors they do run along the dash bar and could be rubbed through somewhere? the dash bar is a giant ground...

-Jimmy
I'll check for that, I did download the 6000x4000 but column E on the sheet is still pretty blurry. That helps I'll check for the harness near the dash bar. I went to drift event and my Blitz temp guage started going on and of then got stuck and is now out of calibration. definitely something is rubbing since I am swinging it in drift and causing erratic behavior. I'm sure if I drifted with my fold mirrors switch they would fold in as I drift lol
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Old 10-05-2021, 02:51 PM   #8
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Thank you so much for this.... I tried to find one of my own and haven't had any luck.
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Old 10-06-2021, 09:21 AM   #9
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Wooten -i pm'd you a buyee link !

Dizzariot- im just glad it has helped people !


D1zguy2- no worries. I'll take another picture of it with my camera and upload it. Its hard to get all of it in 1 pic since that page is like 2.5ft long.. Lets hope you didnt short something out on your gauge !!
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Old 10-06-2021, 01:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Wooten -i pm'd you a buyee link !

Dizzariot- im just glad it has helped people !


D1zguy2- no worries. I'll take another picture of it with my camera and upload it. Its hard to get all of it in 1 pic since that page is like 2.5ft long.. Lets hope you didnt short something out on your gauge !!
Awesome thanks man! Yea, I hope so too. There's definitely a 12v short to ground since my fuel pump relay gets stuck sometimes after a tap it turns off, classic sign theres some rouge voltage to ground.
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Old 10-06-2021, 05:27 PM   #11
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Super grateful for super contribution Super OK
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Old 10-07-2021, 08:04 AM   #12
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Sweet, thanks for this.
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Old 10-08-2021, 10:47 PM   #13
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It will be also super awesome if someone could translate these from Japanese
Quote:
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ENGINE BAY SECTION(lights/power/relay/engine harness)
DSC_9421 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

DASH BAR
DSC_9422 by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr
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Old 10-09-2021, 02:43 PM   #14
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DSC_1247 edit by driftnastyjzx100, on Flickr

d1zguy2- I Hope this one helps, i tried to get as close as possible with a bunch of different pics and they all get blurry.. try and download it for the full resolution. Colum EThe stuff in the top right is for the door switch and dome light wiring. the plugs on the top right (i wrote white/black) are for the cluster. the bottom right is relays for the accessory (left), fan (middle), and ignition (Right). hope that helps !!!

cured13- So, the cool thing i've found with wiring or at least from working with s-chassis, is the wire color-code letters are pretty much universal all over. when i did my wire tuck on this "JDM Silvia" harness, i used the google translate app for my phone and either took pics to read, or chose "real time" to read the manual and went from there and wrote on some of the pages what the component-plug is. when i translated stuff, sometimes it was off translation/completely weird, but if i knew what the plug/wires went to i just wrote it down. also, this book has stuff for the different trim levels 91+ (K's/A's) i.e.-- abs/Digital climate/power controls/A/T/Sound System ect ect... If i am bored one day i will tackle that. I dont even think the Aussie market has a translated edition for the Silvia..
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Old 10-10-2021, 10:31 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=Super_OK_S13;6414959]
d1zguy2- I Hope this one helps, i tried to get as close as possible with a bunch of different pics and they all get blurry.. try and download it for the full resolution. Colum EThe stuff in the top right is for the door switch and dome light wiring. the plugs on the top right (i wrote white/black) are for the cluster. the bottom right is relays for the accessory (left), fan (middle), and ignition (Right). hope that helps !!!

c
Awesome found the issue, the relay behind the fuse box labelled ACC was faulty, would not close reliably or at all towards the end of its life. Swapped it for the one below it and it all came back to life! Order a new OEM blue relay. Glad to know it wasn't shorted out wires thanks for the pic!
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Old 10-10-2021, 10:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super_OK_S13 View Post
d1zguy2- I Hope this one helps, i tried to get as close as possible with a bunch of different pics and they all get blurry.. try and download it for the full resolution. Colum EThe stuff in the top right is for the door switch and dome light wiring. the plugs on the top right (i wrote white/black) are for the cluster. the bottom right is relays for the accessory (left), fan (middle), and ignition (Right). hope that helps !!!
HB01 fuse, joins and protects 12v coming from DB08 that goes to the ACC relay gets power from DA12 that is connected to battery voltage at DB10 when DAE3 and DA15 close and engage the relay for that connection to happen when ignition is turned on

Grabbed my power probe and no dice on the old relay, wasn't clicking on and bridging the contacts.

Probably worthwhile to replace the ACC, Fan relay, and ignition relays while I am there to lower resistance on all those old contact points. Now does anyone have the part number for that funky old Nissan ignition relay?

Also, I think better quality can be achieved by using a scanner, got one at work you can borrow? lol Scan to USB

Now my blitz gauge must just be faulty. It got stuck in the short circuit sender or missing sender mode and when I pulled the power to it and powered it back on it reads 70c no matter what, sender connected or not. Guess just sender shorted or something and fried the blitz who knows

Also, My silvia had a fuel pump control module, basically alternated voltage to pump between idle and off idle to control fuel pressure, since I wired my FP directly to fuel pump and used the OEM power wires to trigger the relay, I just disconnected the fuel pump control module to get rid of that unnecessary load, and I guess that module also always kept some current live; enough to keep my relay triggered at times, disconnecting solved my issue of an always running fuel pump upon key on instead of priming for a few seconds and then off, and also no longer remaining on sometimes until I tapped the FPR relay to get it to stop.

So if you're using the OEM wires to trigger your FP relay make sure you disconnect this fuel pump control module! and also why it's important to wire your fuel pump directly once you go bigger injectors adjustable FPR, if the ECU is playing with pump speed you'll never get your fuel and tune dialed rigght on a JDM silvia K's, don't know if USA KA's have this setup prob not too expensive to do for a D21 truck engine I bet lol

Z32 300ZX have the same setup

After much gnashing of teeth, and reading about other people having similar problems, I used search extensively and found the answer to properly checking fuel pump voltage.
Somebody posted the other day (and I had the same problem) that if you check voltage on the white wire to the fuel pump to chassis ground you will get about 7.7V at idle. If you step on the gas it drops to 6.xV and if you go WOT it will drop to about .6V which seems pretty scary.

What's actually going on with that signal wire can be found in this old post by Buzz

Since the controller is actually providing a GROUND path, to properly check what voltage is really going to the pump you need to wire your positive lead on the meter to the ORANGE wire of the pump (this is battery voltage) and the negative lead to the white (signal) wire of the pump. It's the DIFFERENCE between these two that tells you your actual voltage, not the difference between them and chassis ground.

Ex: doing it this way you will see battery - signal at idle = 13.5V - 7.7V = 5.9V which is exactly in spec.
At WOT it's 13.5V - .6V = 12.9V which is what you would expect.

In my case, this proves that my controller is working properly so my fuel pressure problems are somewhere else. I'm looking for restrictions next.

Hope this helps some of you. It was driving me crazy. Thanks to Buzz for posting that a while back. (Thanks to me for search LOL)

you can see here that 12V power to the fuel pump is actually a constant 12V. This signal is uninterrupted by the FPCM. The Orange wire gets power from the fuse box and once switched sends it directly to the fuel pump. The FPCM actually comes into play on the ground side of the pump. Why? Because the FPCM is actually a variable resistor that increases resistance to ground when commanded by the ECU. If the FPCM gets no signal from the ECU, the fuel pump gets a zero resistance ground (Translation = Full Pump Speed). When the ECU sends a ground signal to the FPCM over the Purple and/or Black/Pink wires the FPCM increases the resistance which in turn lowers the pump speed.

All in all all the electrical issues and gremlins are solved on the Silvia! and linkecu is setup and running now
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