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Old 11-14-2018, 08:13 PM   #1261
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RBF600 is amazing stuff and $$$$. People usually think I'm lying, but I run Pentosin super DOT4 that's available at any advance auto parts in my 9 hour endurance races and without brake ducting. I'm always bleeding and flushing so the fluid I use never has time to get much water absorption.

RBF is good if you plan on leaving it in for awhile without worries since it's wet boiling point is very high. Also if you have a heavy car.
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Old 11-15-2018, 05:35 AM   #1262
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I enjoyed Castrol SRF for a long time until moving to RBF600.
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Old 11-20-2018, 06:10 AM   #1263
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COngrats and welcome! Those look like two beasts.... Two things i always do now to prevent big issues.

Upgrade brake fluid and lines. Fluid Motul RBF600 and steel lines for sure. Helps a lot.

Pads are expensive, but you can swap them in and out after events. I love cobalt pads really and lot of confidence and no fade.

Also check all your hoses. If anything is older than 5 years, change them. One pin hole leak = blown engine.... Trust me I know :'(

But so jealous other people can run R chassis' on the street. Stupid california...
Thanks for the welcome!

Before my last track day I flushed the system with the highest temp brake fluid I could find at my local Canadian Tire store which worked fine for how hard I was pushing the car. Ill pick up some Motul fluid over the winter.

My car suffered an engine loss due to a cracked coolant hose (under the intake manifold) back in 2011. Got the car back together after a long hiatus in 2016 and made sure I replaced EVERY line and hose (brake lines included). So in theory we should have a good solid platform to learn with.

But now its snowing so we wait....

-Jordie
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Old 11-26-2018, 07:49 PM   #1264
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I enjoyed Castrol SRF for a long time until moving to RBF600.
wait until you try Endless RF650 #nevergoingback
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:23 PM   #1265
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wait until you try Endless RF650 #nevergoingback
Ohhh, thanks for the tip!
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:50 PM   #1266
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Thanks for the welcome!

Before my last track day I flushed the system with the highest temp brake fluid I could find at my local Canadian Tire store which worked fine for how hard I was pushing the car. Ill pick up some Motul fluid over the winter.

My car suffered an engine loss due to a cracked coolant hose (under the intake manifold) back in 2011. Got the car back together after a long hiatus in 2016 and made sure I replaced EVERY line and hose (brake lines included). So in theory we should have a good solid platform to learn with.

But now its snowing so we wait....

-Jordie
DUDE!!! I was just reading this and was thinking did I type that? I had the EXACT same thing happen. Pinhole lead in the pipes under the coolant hose, basically blew up the piston due to extreme heat....

I have a thread that converts all of those hoses to 4 layer silicone....

Here is my thread about it.

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=353261
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Old 04-16-2019, 03:02 PM   #1267
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How bout a little bump with different color shoes from my last race at Watkins Glen:

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Old 04-16-2019, 11:23 PM   #1268
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Old 08-12-2019, 03:55 PM   #1269
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:02 AM   #1270
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Running from mustangs

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Old 08-13-2019, 08:50 AM   #1271
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Dang even mustangs invading Canada? I think those new GT350's are going to be the next 240... cheap, a lot of horsepower, looks great and IRS now.... Geez....

For 40k its faster than a 240 at a 40k build...

What do you guys think?
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:50 AM   #1272
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Dang even mustangs invading Canada? I think those new GT350's are going to be the next 240... cheap, a lot of horsepower, looks great and IRS now.... Geez....

For 40k its faster than a 240 at a 40k build...

What do you guys think?
Probably not the 350's, but the 5.0's for sure.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:59 AM   #1273
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Dang even mustangs invading Canada? I think those new GT350's are going to be the next 240... cheap, a lot of horsepower, looks great and IRS now.... Geez....

For 40k its faster than a 240 at a 40k build...

What do you guys think?
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Probably not the 350's, but the 5.0's for sure.
^this

you can get rear-end-damage 5.0's on copart for ~$10-15k. ready to missile.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:16 AM   #1274
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It wouldn't be too hard to build a 240 that put a hurt on GT350s for $40k. They're at about 7.07lbs/hp, so a 2550lb 240SX would need to make 360 crank horsepower to have the same straight-line speed potential.

The difference is that the Mustang is a $40k turn-key and the 240 would be hundreds of hours of wrench work. I think the 240 would be more fun.
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Old 08-13-2019, 01:07 PM   #1275
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Dang even mustangs invading Canada? I think those new GT350's are going to be the next 240... cheap, a lot of horsepower, looks great and IRS now.... Geez....

For 40k its faster than a 240 at a 40k build...

What do you guys think?
Spoiler alert. The track day didnt end well for the mustang. He ended out going off at the end of the main straight and flipping a couple of times. Im not too sure what caused it but at least he walked away.

Hard to argue with performance per dollar with mustangs though.
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Old 08-13-2019, 01:58 PM   #1276
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Yea, they also have a ton of potential and factory support right now with the GT4 program (Multimatic preps them for Ford). But, they are still heavy. Heavy cars are $$$ to keep running on track.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/gt4/

Bang for buck is definitely the rear axle coyote engine car. I race against two of them and they are fast, loud, and irritating
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:14 PM   #1277
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Yea, they also have a ton of potential and factory support right now with the GT4 program (Multimatic preps them for Ford). But, they are still heavy. Heavy cars are $$$ to keep running on track.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/gt4/

Bang for buck is definitely the rear axle coyote engine car. I race against two of them and they are fast, loud, and irritating
hahahahahahaha
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Old 12-29-2020, 09:42 AM   #1278
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Well, subscribing to this too. Another drift guy tired of smashing cars up, and expensive ass track day weekends trying to hang with 800hp pro cars...ugh...lol

Did a couple PDX days last year, spent 2020 doing 2020 stuff...not dying...and I'm going through the car this winter to prep for heavier track sessions.

So far in the past few months I've added a 25row oil cooler with thermo plate, 15 row power steering cooler and completely rebuilt PS system. New 200amp DC Power alternator and completely rebuilt power supply system. Then did some radiator/fmic ducting, and a full length frame mounted front splitter. Just finished last week, and added a TrackSpec motorsports hood vent over the weekend.

Now I'm going through the rear end, converting to Kouki JDM rear, and building a rear diffuser, mostly for aesthetic purposes honestly. Then next I'm moving to a real ECU (Link G4+ Storm) with all the safety sensors, and some bigger injectors. Hoping that gives me the margin I need to keep it healthy for next few years.

Goal is the make the car a trackable street car, with only a pad change needed to handle track day sessions. Currently running RBF660 fluid on R33 brakes F&R with Porterfield R4S pads, which i've found to not hold up too well for heavy track sessions. So I'm entertaining some ideas, trying to figure out if need to invest in a 2pc Wilwood setup or just run what I have and get a proper track pad for track days...

Pic from 2019


Coolers, Ducting, and Splitter




Vent and finished front




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Old 12-29-2020, 12:36 PM   #1279
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Beautiful! What's your plan for the differential? If you have yours set up for drifting still, take it out and disengage some of the clutch discs to make it less aggressive for road race duty.

As for the brakes, PM me as I have the best bang for buck solution for anyone who seriously tracks their cars.
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Old 12-29-2020, 01:14 PM   #1280
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Beautiful! What's your plan for the differential? If you have yours set up for drifting still, take it out and disengage some of the clutch discs to make it less aggressive for road race duty.

As for the brakes, PM me as I have the best bang for buck solution for anyone who seriously tracks their cars.

Hey thanks man!! So the diff is a Cusco 1way actually with a 4.08 rear drive. I'm considering going to a 3.6 final drive to play a little nicer with my R154 trans, we'll see.

And on the brakes, trust me lol I spent the morning poking around on your website. I was gonna buy Erin Sanford's Def Sport Wilwood setup, but drug my feet and missed it, and he pointed me in your direction. That looks like the way to go, I just didnt plan for 1400 for a brake kit this off season, I'll have to keep it on my radar later in the year. My Link ECU+Sensors is eating up most of my funds for the winter build.
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Old 12-29-2020, 07:32 PM   #1281
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Well, subscribing to this too. Another drift guy tired of smashing cars up
I think thats a lot of people here. Well me anyways.
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Old 01-02-2021, 08:12 AM   #1282
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Alright, so here's my next question about brakes. Does anyone make a caliper upgrade kit for Z32 rears? Something that utilizes a stock Z32 rotor, so I can maintain my Ebrake, but that uses a stronger caliper with a more common/effective pad size?

I know C4 makes their insanely awesome rear kit, but I'm gonna be strapped to get their front kit setup this season as is, and wont have an additional 1500 for rear brakes at this point I dont think.

So I'm looking for a caliper upgrade option.
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Old 01-03-2021, 01:00 PM   #1283
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Alright, so here's my next question about brakes. Does anyone make a caliper upgrade kit for Z32 rears? Something that utilizes a stock Z32 rotor, so I can maintain my Ebrake, but that uses a stronger caliper with a more common/effective pad size?

I know C4 makes their insanely awesome rear kit, but I'm gonna be strapped to get their front kit setup this season as is, and wont have an additional 1500 for rear brakes at this point I dont think.

So I'm looking for a caliper upgrade option.
There's a lot of write ups about using rear STI Brembos with rear Z32 rotors. From what I've read though it's mainly a "bling" thing if you already have Z32 rear calibers. Meaning a larger diameter rotor is what you really want for an upgrade.

This dude did a write up about the rear swap (about half way down the page):
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...e/53359/page5/
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The STI caliper is marketed as a great option online on Zilvia and other stupid websites like superstreetonline, and importtuner.com because it simply bolts into the same place as the s14 caliper with no adapter brackets or anything of the sort. What they don't really cover all that well is that evidently you run into a rotor to caliper offset issue when using these. They conflict, saying you need a 3mm spacer, a five mm spacer, or no spacer at all. What I can tell you is this: Using a Sti caliper on an S14 five lug hub with a Z32 one piece rotor creates the problem you can see in the image below. You can see that the caliper in its mounted location is to far to the drivers side, so the pads won't be contacting the rotor at the same time if I left things as they are. In case you are wondering whether I have the rotor snugged up to the hub appropriately, I snugged it up with three open ended lugnuts just to be sure.
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Old 01-04-2021, 08:06 AM   #1284
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There's a lot of write ups about using rear STI Brembos with rear Z32 rotors. From what I've read though it's mainly a "bling" thing if you already have Z32 rear calibers. Meaning a larger diameter rotor is what you really want for an upgrade.

This dude did a write up about the rear swap (about half way down the page):
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...e/53359/page5/
Awesome, thanks man. Was really hoping to find something that utilized a Wilwood caliper, for cheaper consumeables. As the Brembo probably wont offer any better options on pads compared to the Z32/R33 rear.

Looks like I'll be sticking with the R33 rear caliper for this season lol
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Old 01-05-2021, 06:43 PM   #1285
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There's a lot of write ups about using rear STI Brembos with rear Z32 rotors. From what I've read though it's mainly a "bling" thing if you already have Z32 rear calibers. Meaning a larger diameter rotor is what you really want for an upgrade.

This dude did a write up about the rear swap (about half way down the page):
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...e/53359/page5/
This is true. The STi caliper has smaller pistons so less clamping force than the z32 calipers and the alignment is not that great. All of that on an already small rear rotor and it is just a bling upgrade. I experimented with some HFM brackets I had laying around and some 350mm rear rotors for the 370z/G37S. Pad overhang is about 1mm just due to the fact that the calipers weren't designed for such a large rotor, but it still fits better than the z32 rotors I had. Brake bias with the evo 8 front brembos is much, much better. Ebrake still works also, as it's all 172mm.
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Old 01-06-2021, 10:15 AM   #1286
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@BlackZenkiS14. Is that an off the shelf front bumper? Looks like it has great support for the front splitter! How noticeable was the increase in front downforce with the splitter and new hood vent?
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Old 01-06-2021, 11:05 AM   #1287
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@BlackZenkiS14. Is that an off the shelf front bumper? Looks like it has great support for the front splitter! How noticeable was the increase in front downforce with the splitter and new hood vent?
So the bumper is just an OEM JDM Kouki front bumper with a Greddy lip.

The splitter was totally designed around the shape of the bumper actually, I built it specifically for it.

No idea on downforce yet, havent had it to the track yet, just finished it a couple weeks ago. But cooling improvements were huge for the vent+splitter+ducting.
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Old 01-06-2021, 12:06 PM   #1288
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This is true. The STi caliper has smaller pistons so less clamping force than the z32 calipers and the alignment is not that great. All of that on an already small rear rotor and it is just a bling upgrade. I experimented with some HFM brackets I had laying around and some 350mm rear rotors for the 370z/G37S. Pad overhang is about 1mm just due to the fact that the calipers weren't designed for such a large rotor, but it still fits better than the z32 rotors I had. Brake bias with the evo 8 front brembos is much, much better. Ebrake still works also, as it's all 172mm.
I believe the rear STI calipers are lighter than the rear Z32 from what I read? I don't need the ebrake so I went with a girodisc 2 piece setup with evo8 rear rotor. I just then need like 4 washers to slightly space out the caliper from the rotor.

What do you guys think?
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Old 01-06-2021, 03:07 PM   #1289
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Seems like a lot of work for not much performance or benefit beyond a Z32/R33 setup.

Unfortunately I still rely on my drum e-brake for the occasional drift event and normal parking. So i'm probably stuck with R33 until I decide that I care ZERO about drifting. Even teh C4 setup wouldnt work well with e-brake rips
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Old 01-06-2021, 03:43 PM   #1290
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I believe the rear STI calipers are lighter than the rear Z32 from what I read? I don't need the ebrake so I went with a girodisc 2 piece setup with evo8 rear rotor. I just then need like 4 washers to slightly space out the caliper from the rotor.

What do you guys think?
If they are it's probably only a few ounces lol I'm sure your rotors are much lighter than mine, but I prefer to have cheap rotors that I can source virtually anywhere.
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