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Old 03-14-2011, 01:44 PM   #91
doyle4281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bllabong89 View Post
Ok, that is what I was talking about. I didn't get any type of spacers though. Where did you find the torque specs?

Thanks for your help,
Andrew
I am sure if you were to contact Yamato Garage, they would send you the spacers. However, any washer of sufficient strength should work fine. I used the torque specs from the FSM.

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Old 03-14-2011, 06:53 PM   #92
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Great, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.

Andrew
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:49 AM   #93
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Wanted to say thanks again and figured I would throw this up for ya...



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Old 03-24-2011, 08:05 AM   #94
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Looks great dude, I see you are using the Ballerbolts set as well. I had a problem where the outer toe rod bolt was too long and hitting the coilover. Did you get them recently, I think Ryan started using the nickel plating instead of the Zinc plating I have. Glad I could help
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:31 AM   #95
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Thanks. Yea, I had ordered them about 3 months ago if that and then it took a month to get in due to some washers being out of stock or something.
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Old 04-11-2011, 04:54 PM   #96
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One of the first nice days we have had in Jersey. Cleaned out the garage, back to work. Updates soon....
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:27 PM   #97
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I just did a full ES bushing install on my car. Didn't go as far as painting everything tho, after seeing this I wish I did...
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:49 AM   #98
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Awesome attention to detail, cant wait to start on mine!

I can also vouch for the B17, we had some wheels to strip and after media and all the off the self strippers I bought a 5 gallon tub of the Benco. Like you said, 3 minutes and the wheels were bare aluminum.
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Or you could have stopped being a lazy asshat and done some research.
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:56 PM   #99
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this write up is so awesome. question though doyle4281, in the energy suspension pdf it says to remove two inner rings for the subframes...but didn't seem like you did when you were doing yours. did you just not include it or is this part of the instructions that are "somewhat clear"?
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:00 PM   #100
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I noticed that my rear subframe energy bushings are kind of loose in the hole but the front bushings are nice and tight is that normal or did I stretched them out with my prybar to much removing old colars?? Do you think it will still work once subframe is installed? Please say yes LOL
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:04 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenshinS14sks View Post
this write up is so awesome. question though doyle4281, in the energy suspension pdf it says to remove two inner rings for the subframes...but didn't seem like you did when you were doing yours. did you just not include it or is this part of the instructions that are "somewhat clear"?
Thanks dude. It has been some time since I did this, but I remember at the time, I was a little unclear as to how much that needed to be removed as well. I tried to post what I did as clearly as possible, but sometimes pictures do not show enough detail. The rings that the instructions were refering to are what I pictured below. Essentially, you are removing everything from the hole without cutting into the actual subframe. The only thing I can recommend is to make your cuts carefully and keep checking the depth, especially when cutting relieves for the outer sleeve. Every so often, with a chisel and hammer, hit the sleeve to see if it moves a little, this will give you a good indication if your relief cuts are deep enough. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.


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Old 04-22-2011, 06:54 AM   #102
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Not to sound like a dick or anything, but why did you get those links? I figured with so much work into this and what not, you would have gone with something like SPL.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:39 AM   #103
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I would go with this if you want the best.^^^
Specialty Products Company - SPC Alignment
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:51 AM   #104
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Thanks for the input guys. Both of those companies are top notch, however they have a price tag to match. Yamato Garage makes a great product at a very reasonable price. They use the same QA1 heim joints as many of the best manufactures do, and use the same alloys to construct the arms. For an all out racing application, where extreme forces and speeds are present, I may consider a different setup. However, for a street and occasional track session, as the majority of us will be doing, Yamato Garage offers an unbeatable package.
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Old 04-22-2011, 12:11 PM   #105
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i try going to the yamato garage website...it's down~ =(
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:45 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTB.1054 View Post
I noticed that my rear subframe energy bushings are kind of loose in the hole but the front bushings are nice and tight is that normal or did I stretched them out with my prybar to much removing old colars?? Do you think it will still work once subframe is installed? Please say yes LOL
Input please.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:53 PM   #107
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awesome work man, I'm just starting on mine this month. I plan on bead blasting / coating everything just like you.
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:39 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doyle4281 View Post
Thanks for the input guys. Both of those companies are top notch, however they have a price tag to match. Yamato Garage makes a great product at a very reasonable price. They use the same QA1 heim joints as many of the best manufactures do, and use the same alloys to construct the arms. For an all out racing application, where extreme forces and speeds are present, I may consider a different setup. However, for a street and occasional track session, as the majority of us will be doing, Yamato Garage offers an unbeatable package.
have you even looked in the review thread of yamato on here.
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:45 PM   #109
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Just saw the car today let me tell you people this car is 10 out of 10. Can't wait to see the finished project!
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:53 PM   #110
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great thread, excellent work so far.
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:25 PM   #111
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It has been awhile since I have posted updates, but here goes....

I believe the last updates were the beginning of the front suspension. Sorry if these updates aren't particularly detailed, as much of the work was done quite some time ago.

Being pleased with the brakes on my Evolution, I opted to use the Brembo setup in the front, and the STI Brembo in the rear. As most know, used Evo Brembos aren't usually to cosmetically pleasing when purchase used, and mine were no different. After splitting, acid dipping, bead blasting, and taping, I powder coated them in Mirror Silver.






Note: I used different techniques when doing each front caliper. For one I separated the caliper into two pieces, and powder coated separately. For the other, I removed the pistons, seals, esc and powder coated all as one piece. The results from leaving it in one piece are BETTER! Since there are no seals between the halves, like Z32 calipers, seal damage is NOT an issue. Leaving them together allows you to coat the bolts as well, and helps hide the seam between the two halves. I recommend leaving them together.





All together, and also coated the brackets which secure the rear subframe.


High Temp Brembo decals were then applied. I tried to match to match the Ruby Pearl paint as best I could.


After the application of the decals, the calipers where then coated with clear powder coat. Be very careful when selecting your decals, as I have had some melt during the clear coating process.


This is what they look like powder coated clear. Ready to install....




Touge Factory Evo Brembo brackets made the install very easy. They are extremely high quality, and are PROPERLY designed. After having some bad luck with a set of brackets purchased on this forum, these were a blessing.




Rotora front and rear rotors....






Racing Brake ET500 pads....


Calipers loaded and installed....




Megan Racing steering boot and Tein inner and outer tie rod assembly installed...


Yamato Garage tension rod, painted tension rod bracket, BallerBolts (rod to control arm), and new OEM tension rod bolts...








Even though I have not documented it, the front spindles were powder coated, Apexi coilovers were installed, along with new OEM fasteners...







Last edited by doyle4281; 08-17-2011 at 08:39 PM..
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:32 PM   #112
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Being that I have not adjusted everything yet, I need some advice concerning the tension rods. This may be normal, but I have noticed that the tension rods needed to be extended quite a bit. The adjustments are not at the end of their travel, but it seems excessive to me. Judging by the picture, does the adjustment seem excessive?


Last edited by doyle4281; 08-17-2011 at 08:25 PM..
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:40 PM   #113
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awesome work
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:26 AM   #114
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brakes and front look extremely good man, keep it up.
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:40 PM   #115
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looking great man!
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:29 PM   #116
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Nice suspension thread!!!
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:57 PM   #117
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The STI rear calipers where a similar procedure as the front, however it is recommended to split these, as there is a seal between the halves. The powder coating temperature is in excess of 450 degress F, so the seal could be harmed. It has been disputed that these seals can handle the heat, however they are nearly impossible to find, so I wouldn't take the chance.

Those who have disassembled these calipers know, that the torx fasteners that hold those 4 plates on, can be a pain to get out. In my case a few got damaged, they were replaced on every caliper. If anyone is interested, they are M6x1 12mm button head fasteners.







Ready to install....bolt on with no modification....






Installed...


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Old 08-17-2011, 09:15 PM   #118
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Awesome work man. Gives me ideas!
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:59 PM   #119
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looks sick. I am also running the evo/sti brembo set up and will be putting them on my new s14. I know what you mean about the calipers looking kinda shitty after they have been used for some time...It's about powdercoating time for mine too. I may have overlooked it on here but what kind of BMC are you running?
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:19 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bllabong89 View Post
looks sick. I am also running the evo/sti brembo set up and will be putting them on my new s14. I know what you mean about the calipers looking kinda shitty after they have been used for some time...It's about powdercoating time for mine too. I may have overlooked it on here but what kind of BMC are you running?

Thanks man, this project is nearing it's end, and should come out nice. I am using a 1" master cylinder. Originally, I had a Z32 setup, and thought the 1" master would provide a better pedal for a daily driven car. Since putting the Brembo setup on, I have thought the 17/16" bore would be more suitable. However, I feel the 1" will fine on a 240sx with a Brembo setup. Since we essentially have Evo 8 brake systems, you can base your sizing off that, and lucky for us the GSR and MR had 17/16" and the RS had 1". Both attainable bore sizes for the S14. The RS was a lighter car, so the 1" might be just fine on a 240sx, we'll see.....
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