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Old 01-07-2011, 01:12 AM   #61
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Old 01-07-2011, 04:04 AM   #62
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all i have to say is..wow..completely flawless...this build is truly a work of art bro keep it up man i cant wait to see the end product
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:58 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doyle4281 View Post
I was considering changing them to longer studs, but I had already purchased the closed face lug nuts. I may install longer studs in the future if needed.
I would suggest it, along with some Muteki SR48's open ended.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:01 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_240 View Post
^I think your RUCAs are backwards.... they typically point down so they don't hit the pinch weld in that area. Yours are pointing up.

Also I said it before but I'll say it again. Those ES bushings that go in the spindles/LCAs SUCK. They create a ton of stiction so the suspension cannot travel as easily even when well greased (the grease only lasts 2 months max anyway). You end up feeling everything in the road like it's train tracks or something. I could not move my suspensioin at all by hand when I had the shock disconnected and ES bushings installed.

If you have the money sphericals are a far superior option (the sphericals do wear out quicker but replacements are only like $10 each and they slide right out of the housing for easy replacement). If not i'd try to source some OEM/nismo bushings.
The poly bushings are a concern of mine as well. I was considering installing zirc fittings if the bushings wear prematurely, however I will look into sphericals. Thanks bro
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:23 AM   #65
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I did the zerk fittings.... total waste of time. I even cut extra grooves thinking there would be less stiction..... nope.

Disconnect one of those arms from the subframe and try moving it up and down on the upright side and you will see what I mean... now imagine trying to move all 5 of those bushings up and down at the same time(the ES RLCA bushings are the worst).

People only recommend them because they don't know what is going on with their suspension... Yeah they will make your car stiff but in the wrong places... the bushings basically over-power the cheap chinese coils everyone runs and you end up with a bouncy ride at low speeds.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:05 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_240 View Post
I did the zerk fittings.... total waste of time. I even cut extra grooves thinking there would be less stiction..... nope.

Disconnect one of those arms from the subframe and try moving it up and down on the upright side and you will see what I mean... now imagine trying to move all 5 of those bushings up and down at the same time(the ES RLCA bushings are the worst).

People only recommend them because they don't know what is going on with their suspension... Yeah they will make your car stiff but in the wrong places... the bushings basically over-power the cheap chinese coils everyone runs and you end up with a bouncy ride at low speeds.
Thanks for the heads up. Everything seems to move freely as of now, however the grease is still fresh. I plan on doing periodic inspections during the first few weeks of driving to be sure everything is still tight and still adjusted.
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:56 PM   #67
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wow this is inspiring. . . how long did it take from start to finish?
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Old 01-18-2011, 04:18 PM   #68
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Quote:
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wow this is inspiring. . . how long did it take from start to finish?

The suspension did not take too long, however a lot of the work is labor intensive. Removing the subframe bushings, spindle bushings, and installing the new ones takes a little time. Aside from that, a lot of time was spent powder coating and painting.
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Old 01-18-2011, 04:47 PM   #69
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Before all the suspension was installed I painted pretty much the entire underside of the car with a spray on bed liner product. It took about 5 cans to do the whole thing. Be sure to apply tape thoroughly, as there are quite a few small mounting holes that go through to the engine bay. There is nothing worse than black overspray on your shiny engine parts...trust me

Product...


Front...




Rear....




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Old 01-20-2011, 03:37 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doyle4281 View Post
Thanks guys. As far as the alignment goes, I made a jig to accurately measure the length of the OEM arms, and adjusted the Yamato arms to the same length. I wanted to have a drivable baseline, so I could drive the car to get an alignment.
Can you please note specs because I'll be doing the alignment myself on a HUNTER hawk eye and only have acess to factory specs
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Old 01-20-2011, 04:06 PM   #71
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Can you please note specs because I'll be doing the alignment myself on a HUNTER hawk eye and only have acess to factory specs

I adjusted all the arms to the same length as the factory arms just so I can get the car to get the alignment done. I will be taking the car to SlideWayz Motorsports for corner balancing and suspension adjustment. They are a great group of guys and could help you with what you need.

Slidewayz Motorsports, LLC - Your Source for the Finest in Performance Parts - Homepage
175 Fair St.
Palisades Park, NJ 07650
P: (201)-944-4955
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Old 01-20-2011, 04:14 PM   #72
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Good looking out I'll contact them thanks
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Old 01-21-2011, 10:23 AM   #73
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Excellent work, Did you pressure wash or clean the underside of the car before bedlining it? I know some can get pretty dirty, and of course for better adhesion.
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Old 01-21-2011, 10:29 AM   #74
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5 star thread!
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Old 01-21-2011, 10:55 AM   #75
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Excellent work, Did you pressure wash or clean the underside of the car before bedlining it? I know some can get pretty dirty, and of course for better adhesion.
Thank you everyone, I will keep the updates coming. I was unable to power wash the underside of the car, as I could not get it outside. I used compressed air to get any dirt and dust off, then used scotch-brite pads to loosen anything that the air couldn't, and finally I went over everything with paint surface prep. Like I mentioned before, take the time to tape eveything off properly.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:01 AM   #76
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The front suspension, although less extensive than the rear, still offered up its own challenges, and provided plenty of areas for upgrades. As most you from the northeast know, everything was pretty much rusted into its final resting place, and needed to be violently disassembled. The lower control arm was up first...

After removing the worn out ball joints on the press, it was time to remove the dried out bushings. My preferred method is heating the bushings up with a torch until you are able to hammer out the center metal portion.




You should turn out with something like this...


Then using a chisel or screw driver, scrap as much of the rubber out as possible. Applying heat will make this easier....


After getting it as clean as possible, the rest will need to be removed with some aid from power tools. I used a Dremel tool, but a drill with a wire wheel, or I am sure number of other methods could be effective.



Once the bushing was completely removed, I used a very industrial chemical stripping agent to remove the OEM finish. There are other products and methods for removing paint, however nothing is faster than Benco B17 chemical stripper. It is expensive and not the safest product, but it will strip any you can throw at it.

After 3 minutes....


The draw back of chemical strippers is that the surface begins to oxidize almost immediately. The application of phosphoric acid immediately after stripping does prevent this from happening.


I then quickly glass bead the parts to remove the oxidation, and to completely clean the surface. Unless you plane on treating the surface immediately, you should keep the bare metal parts inside. The surface will begin to oxidize if left outside.


At this point the arms are ready for powder coat, and you turn out with something like this....






The Energy Suspension bushing are then slipped in, and the Moog (K9820) ball joints are pressed in.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:25 AM   #77
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dope man - can't wait to see the rest of your build. You took great pics of the product.
On the last picture when you received the shipment, did you place the bushing around the logo on purpose? That looks cool
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:34 AM   #78
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HOLY SHIT. Excellent work, sir!
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Old 01-22-2011, 02:09 AM   #79
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Y didnt you just glass bead them first why the need to remove the oem finish?
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Old 01-22-2011, 02:24 AM   #80
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dope man - can't wait to see the rest of your build. You took great pics of the product.
On the last picture when you received the shipment, did you place the bushing around the logo on purpose? That looks cool
Thanks guys. I wanted to be sure that I properly photographed the products installed, as they deserve the detail. I will be starting another build thread in the very near future for another project I have been working on.

Here is a little clue....
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Old 01-22-2011, 02:34 AM   #81
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Y didnt you just glass bead them first why the need to remove the oem finish?
Bead blasting the OEM finish takes much longer than the chemical stripper. When bead blasting the oxidation off after stripping, it only takes a very quick pass to remove. I find that there are always little spots that are missed when trying to blast the OEM finish off. The stripper gets every last bit of the finish, so all you have to deal with is the oxidation, which is easy to remove. There are many ways to do this, however this is what I find to be the most effective.
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Old 02-05-2011, 08:49 PM   #82
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Any update pics? I can't wait to see it up in the car.
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Old 02-05-2011, 08:58 PM   #83
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awesome work. loving those XD9's. Apexi coilovers?
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Old 03-05-2011, 03:23 PM   #84
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amazing job looks awesome cant wait to get started on mine....can't get any betta then this!!! 2 thumps up
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Old 03-05-2011, 03:34 PM   #85
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Thanks guys, it has been a rough winter here in Jersey, so updates have been few and far between. The weather will break soon, and I will be finishing the car within a few months.
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Old 03-13-2011, 02:22 PM   #86
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Did you have to use spacers on your toe rods? I also have Yamato multi links and there is alot of space between the subframe and heim joint so it can move forward and backwards a bit...like 3/4"-1".

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 03-13-2011, 03:19 PM   #87
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I beleive what you are refering to is this, correct?


I had the very same problem with mine. They included the spacers with the arms, however there was still a gap. I contacted Yamato Garage and they recomended that I try to torque them to spec, and see if the gap closes. The subframe is surprisingly flexible, and the gap closed up. Hope that helps
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:27 PM   #88
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This thread is great. Keep it up!
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:40 PM   #89
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very nicely done sir!
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Old 03-14-2011, 01:15 PM   #90
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Ok, that is what I was talking about. I didn't get any type of spacers though. Where did you find the torque specs?

Thanks for your help,
Andrew
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