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Old 11-30-2016, 10:39 AM   #31
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Figured I should post it in here since I finally decided on my setup. Sorry the picture is large.
Still putting everything together but I'm hoping to have it all done and get the setup tuned on both pump and e56 by early 2017.

1. Early redtop sr20 stock except cams, z33/cd009 trans, OsGiken TS2BD twin disc.
2. JWT S4 cams, 266 dur, .464" lift. Dual rocker guides.
3. Greddy TD06H 8cm 20g, Kinugawa t2/5-bolt turbine housing, wastegate flap welded. CodyAce modded stock s14 manifold with Tial MVs.
4. ID1000's in Radium rail, Tomei Type L FPR with AEM Stainless psi sensor.
5. AEM Infinity 8 ems with custom Wiring Specialties Pro/Infinity harness, wired with ethanol content sensor, boost solenoid, oil psi,
fuel psi, oil temp, water temp, and wideband o2 feedback all to the ecu.


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Old 12-01-2016, 12:53 AM   #32
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T3/vband TD06H with the garrett gtx 58mm/76mm wheel on my 11:1 SR20VE(T) N1 cams, ID1000s @ ~300kpa so far with nismotronic and the VG30 trans.

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Old 12-01-2016, 05:43 PM   #33
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Figured I should post it in here since I finally decided on my setup. Sorry the picture is large.
Still putting everything together but I'm hoping to have it all done and get the setup tuned on both pump and e56 by early 2017.

1. Early redtop sr20 stock except cams, z33/cd009 trans, OsGiken TS2BD twin disc.
2. JWT S4 cams, 266 dur, .464" lift. Dual rocker guides.
3. Greddy TD06H 8cm 20g, Kinugawa t2/5-bolt turbine housing, wastegate flap welded. CodyAce modded stock s14 manifold with Tial MVs.
4. ID1000's in Radium rail, Tomei Type L FPR with AEM Stainless psi sensor.
5. AEM Infinity 8 ems with custom Wiring Specialties Pro/Infinity harness, wired with ethanol content sensor, boost solenoid, oil psi,
fuel psi, oil temp, water temp, and wideband o2 feedback all to the ecu.
That's a nice set up. Should make good power.
What adapter kit did you use to bolt the z33 trans to your SR?
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:02 PM   #34
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That's a nice set up. Should make good power.

What adapter kit did you use to bolt the z33 trans to your SR?


I'll be using the Mazworx kit with a GkTech shifter.


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Old 12-02-2016, 05:30 PM   #35
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I've got the Comp twin disc and it's an awesome race clutch, but at a reasonable torque level especially within that of a 20g or even bigger...I'd seriously consider the spec stage 3+ for its holding ability and much smoother engagement potential. The twin disc grabs like trump and shifts fast as lightning, but it's not very friendly cruising around town. I haven't used the stage 3+ yet, but I may swap to it sooner than later. My older act held the 20g no problem and had a lower rating than the 3+


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Old 12-02-2016, 05:49 PM   #36
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I'll be using the Mazworx kit with a GkTech shifter.


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Are you happy with the kit? Any words of the wise you would give someone else looking to put a z33 trans is a SR20 S14?

Got a link to the shifter?

Thanks
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:51 PM   #37
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I've got the Comp twin disc and it's an awesome race clutch, but at a reasonable torque level especially within that of a 20g or even bigger...I'd seriously consider the spec stage 3+ for its holding ability and much smoother engagement potential. The twin disc grabs like trump and shifts fast as lightning, but it's not very friendly cruising around town. I haven't used the stage 3+ yet, but I may swap to it sooner than later. My older act held the 20g no problem and had a lower rating than the 3+


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I have a Competiton Clutch stage 3 ( 6 puck ) and it's holding close to 500TQ. It does engage very high though with minimal slip. Very grabby. But I hate twin disks.
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:59 PM   #38
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Not a very necessary mod for a 20g unless your trans is already fucked.


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Old 12-02-2016, 06:00 PM   #39
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Not a very necessary mod for a 20g unless your trans is already fucked.


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You think a stock SR trans will hold up very long at 550hp?
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:14 PM   #40
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It won't hold up lol. The mazworx kit is great except the shifter relocation isn't far enough forward unless you don't might trimming the hole a bit in the chassis. It will clear the shifter trim though.


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Old 12-02-2016, 06:25 PM   #41
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I doubt you crack 500 on a chassis dyno, but I guess 450 is starting to push the SR trans. Mine lasted a couple seasons at that power, but I was smooth on it so i guess it's probably worth the CD009 if you've upgraded everything else. Both of my mazworx kits work flawlessly.


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Old 12-02-2016, 06:31 PM   #42
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I doubt you crack 500 on a chassis dyno, but I guess 450 is starting to push the SR trans. Mine lasted a couple seasons at that power, but I was smooth on it so i guess it's probably worth the CD009 if you've upgraded everything else. Both of my mazworx kits work flawlessly.


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Made 520 on Zfevers dyno jet at 22psi. At 30 psi it's topping 550.
The SR trans isn't going to last. Haven't even run it past 20psi yet at the track cause I know it's going to break that trans.
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:33 PM   #43
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Old 12-23-2016, 03:20 PM   #44
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18g and 20g turbo users

Finally got it all put together. I got Inconel studs for the t2 flange from Flyin' Miata, these are supposed to be stretch proof so that the gasket doesn't blow. Combined with the Stage8 lock nuts I'm hoping it stays leak free for a while. CodyAce Tial MVs manifold. Kinugawa td06h t2 8cm turbine housing with gate welded shut. Mazworx studs and nuts to the head.




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Old 12-23-2016, 04:16 PM   #45
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That factory T fitting on the VC makes me cringe every time I see one.


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Old 12-23-2016, 04:17 PM   #46
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That factory T fitting on the VC makes me cringe every time I see one.

Cover is getting replaced with an s13.4 cover when I put the engine back in.



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Old 12-24-2016, 11:51 AM   #47
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You need some heat sleeving to cover those SS lines.
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:00 PM   #48
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You need some heat sleeving to cover those SS lines.


It's only the one oil feed line. Unfortunately I can't find any local :/ are they not durable enough without it?


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Old 12-24-2016, 12:19 PM   #49
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The cast manifold won't be as detrimental as a tubular manifold in this case and your oil line isn't even close to it, but you are worried about flange bolts stretching so a few inches of shield won't hurt, but isn't necessary.


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Old 12-24-2016, 12:25 PM   #50
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The cast manifold won't be as detrimental as a tubular manifold in this case and your oil line isn't even close to it, but you are worried about flange bolts stretching so a few inches of shield won't hurt, but isn't necessary.

I'll definitely get a piece on there before it's ran for any significant amount of time. The 90° where it goes to the turbo is actually really close to the flange, like 1/8" to 1/16" from it. Really needs a banjo there but don't have a line like that unfortunately.

The studs to the manifold definitely do stretch under track abuse, mostly the grip racing guys that are on track for extended periods of time have that problem. I'd just rather not risk it. However the studs to the 5 bolt flange are just regular FRSport brand.



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Old 12-26-2016, 05:06 PM   #51
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I'm all for taking extra precautions to prevent BS so I'll keep this one in mind from now on, but I do circuit trackdays and haven't had that issue yet...which is exactly how an s-chassis hits you in the balls the next time around lol.


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Old 12-27-2016, 03:14 PM   #52
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Sleeves for your turbo lines

https://www.mcmaster.com/#braided-sleeving/=15nl5la

pick one that suits your taste. same shiiiit everyone uses but I can source them for cheaper and cross reference them.

smile
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:45 PM   #53
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18g and 20g turbo users

Just did a little upgrade on my TD06H hotside. From the 11 blade wheel (312 grams) to the newer, straight 9 blade wheel (193 grams). I expected weight savings, but that's almost 38% less, not to mention better flow.


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Old 07-31-2017, 05:21 PM   #54
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What kind of power can I expect from a TD05H 18G? I picked this up over the weekend to run on my SR, motor will be stock compression, tomei 260 cams, stock SR manifold w/ ewg and E54.

Also, can anyone tell me what A/R this exhaust housing is? Would throwing a billet compressor wheel in it make any more power? Got this thing for so cheap I wouldn't mind spending some cash to update it a bit.



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Old 07-31-2017, 05:49 PM   #55
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You could reasonably make 400hp on it. If you're one of those who knows how to extra all a turbo can do then you could get 450.

Yes a good billet wheel will make a little more power. A billet when that's the same inducer/exducer will have a thinner center and typically be taller. This makes for a larger blade surface even though inducer/exducer remains the same. Larger blade surface will add few extra lb/min airflow potential.

Don't know the a/r of that turbine housing.
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Old 07-31-2017, 06:29 PM   #56
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You could reasonably make 400hp on it. If you're one of those who knows how to extra all a turbo can do then you could get 450.

Yes a good billet wheel will make a little more power. A billet when that's the same inducer/exducer will have a thinner center and typically be taller. This makes for a larger blade surface even though inducer/exducer remains the same. Larger blade surface will add few extra lb/min airflow potential.

Don't know the a/r of that turbine housing.
Interesting, wasn't expecting it to be able to make that kind of power. Really glad I decided to pick it up now, should be a fantastic little turbo to run for a bit.

Once the car is all together I'll post up what the setup ends up making, should have it running in the next few months.
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:58 AM   #57
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Interesting, wasn't expecting it to be able to make that kind of power. Really glad I decided to pick it up now, should be a fantastic little turbo to run for a bit.

Once the car is all together I'll post up what the setup ends up making, should have it running in the next few months.
he's right. you can also change out the intake housing and convert it to a 20g with a 20g intake turbine.

450hp is possible if you take all the necessarily steps.
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Old 08-01-2017, 07:23 AM   #58
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he's right. you can also change out the intake housing and convert it to a 20g with a 20g intake turbine.

450hp is possible if you take all the necessarily steps.
Is that supposed to read compressor wheel??
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Old 08-01-2017, 07:26 AM   #59
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Is that supposed to read compressor wheel??
Was wondering the same thing.
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Old 08-01-2017, 07:55 AM   #60
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whats suppose to read???????????
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