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Old 01-27-2009, 04:44 PM   #61
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so wait...the new bung on top is going straight to the intake, with no catch can.
and then the new bung in the t location is going down to the crankcase. is this correct? im a little confused.
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:48 PM   #62
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More pics of setup





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Old 01-27-2009, 04:50 PM   #63
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Sorry a lot of hoses... will clean up later.... But NOW ask your questions...
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:51 PM   #64
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Can you take a pic.....
sure! ill take a pic tomorrow, ill look for the 'restrictor' and take a pic of it...


and don't shy away just because of the welds people, it is very noticeable that this was to try it out first before cleaning everything up ... look at any job from luke and you will see how his work is... close to perfect imo...
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:53 PM   #65
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Yup! Man I did this stuff after work.... Pretty tired you know after a 10 hour day to slap everything back together.... Will work on piping....
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:02 PM   #66
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so let me get this correct because im a little confused
The hose thats coming of the top of the cover is going to the intake, and the hose off where the T was is going straight down to the oil pan?
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:03 PM   #67
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so let me get this correct because im a little confused
The hose thats coming of the top of the cover is going to the intake, and the hose off where the T was is going straight down to the oil pan?
The one off the top is to a catch can to the intake....

The other one you are correct...
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:03 PM   #68
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Im very interested in having this done. How much extra would it be to get my valve cover polished out? Either that or for it to be powder coated in some sort of a metalic blue? Also can I get blue an fittings? My valve cover is black right now, someone sprayed the red top valve cover black. I dont think its powder coat because it chipped off in a spot when I dropped something on it when the cover was off, its like 2 mm thick. If getting it re coated would cost too much I still want to highly consider getting this done, and now would be a great time since we have parts of the car tore down right now. How fast can I get it back too?

Also, Im capable of installing the an fittings at my shop easially, and I know someone that can powercoat it when its done. Are yall WANTING us to send them to you? Or can I ask for pictures of the modifications done to the baffaling? If you dont want to post them up but wouldnt mind pm'ing me the picturs of the baffeling I can keep them private. Thanks!
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:13 PM   #69
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Sorry lol.... valve cover is closed... haha I need to pull that thing off again and all the trouble.... Pain in the ass you know.... But basically its drilling a series of holes in the baffling that is already there....

Luke can do all that stuff for you and has a beadblaster... PM him as this is a tech thread not a sales thread..... Blu808 is his name welding is his game

On a note.... a little about the ideas behind this....

Basically we believe air from the crank which is considered high pressure will enter into the VC and obviously with some oil. The oil will hit the walls of the valve cover and drain downwards through the oil returns in the head. The top AN fitting basically from the vacuum will cause an area of low pressure because of the vacuum and it should draw most of the air out that way.... Air tends to flow from High Pressure to Areas of Low Pressure obviously.... The baffles were modified near the area of the top AN fitting to reduce the possibility of sucking oil under load....

When hooking up to the catch can, please make sure to clamp them down and the fittings themselves use teflon to reduce any vacuum leakage....

If you want there will be a specially designed catch where in case of pressure loading on the catch, a check valve with filter is placed on top of the can with steel wool inside to catch all oily particles...
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:22 PM   #70
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so wait, did you or luke made yours?
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:28 PM   #71
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My catch was mine from greddy... but I am doing the designing and testing.... he is doing the fabrication.... So I am going to redo my catch this weekend, but he has some cool laser cut stuff for fuel surge tanks that he can do for the catch design....
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:41 PM   #72
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ahhh yes everything is much clearer now. this is awesome. once i get my car up and running again i will definatly hit luke up to have this done.
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:54 PM   #73
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Sorry lol.... valve cover is closed... haha I need to pull that thing off again and all the trouble.... Pain in the ass you know.... But basically its drilling a series of holes in the baffling that is already there....

Luke can do all that stuff for you and has a beadblaster... PM him as this is a tech thread not a sales thread..... Blu808 is his name welding is his game
Ok cool, sorry about that. I just got too excited. Haha. I hate it when people do what I just did so Im a hippocrate lol.
Anyways, I would really like to wait to get the pics of the baffaling when possible. This honestly seems like something I can handle and the main reason I showed interest in paying for this was because I didnt know if there was going to be seceracy.

On a side note, how are the hoses holding up for you? Are they reinforced? I had issues with BAD blow by once and we couldnt figure it out and one day we were screwing around on a dyno and I saw the problem. The heat from the turbo mani was causing the hoses to weaken and the scution from the turbo inlet caused the hoses to collaps and then pressure to build up on the engine side of the hose. That told me that the turbo sucked out more air than the blow by produced. I shot the dipstick out too and the e85 vapor ignited! E85 guys have to take extra precautions with blow by and crank case ventelation because our fuel turns into a vapor the second its expelled from the injectors and introduced to the heat of the intake manifold and head.
Here is how I modified my dipstick




I posted these pics because it shows what I have done more easially. Right after the picture was taken I cleaned it up with a file and painted it flat black. Now it looks as if it were factory. You can unscrew the top due to the washer and can still insert your dipstick as you would normally, either just to check oil or to drive around with all day and then just cap it off on a track day. I keep mine capped up because I didnt think a whole lot about it the first time I heard how easy it is to get an engine fire due to the e85 vapor escaping but I take caution at all times now. And that is why Im interested in this valve cover modification now.

Side note, here is the modified dipstick installed.

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Old 01-27-2009, 05:58 PM   #74
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I haven't noticed too much of the suction issue... but since these are AN fittings, I can always fit AN hoses on them.... I gotta put it under a dyno to see whether if these things collapse or not....

Personally i have a Stock Exhaust Manifold, so there is a lot of clearance between the hose and the manifold... I would however suggest AN hoses if it was an aftermarket.... Then you won't have any problems....
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Old 01-27-2009, 06:12 PM   #75
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Are your hoses simply the parts store universal hoses, or heater hoses? You may have trouble with them. I got hoses from summit for my current setup but i would run an hoses for sure with my setup when I do this. I do have another question for you though....
When you have your oil filled to the proper amount on your car and your on a steep hill do you pull any oil out of the rear mounted fitting? Im assuming not because because the pcv will have more suction than the an fitting. I have noticed that my car will suck some oil out when on a steep hill (front bumper pointing tward the sky). Its not that commen to be on such a grade but there are a few spots in my town where the streets seem like they are strait up, like leaving the park I cannot believe how strait up and down the pull out is and my exhaust will bellow smoke there till I take off.
Anyways Im just wondering if it would not be more beneficial to bring the rear mounted an fitting to a different location? Possibly more tward the center.

Sorry, Im not trying to pick at your project, but I have spent lots of hours thinking about the crank case ventalation issues with the sr and never have I came up with something as simple and good as you (hince why mine is un modified yet properly routed) but now that I see a great idea I cant help but offer food for thought.
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Old 01-27-2009, 07:54 PM   #76
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Nope it will not pull oil out at all.... Basically there are already baffles in the valve cover which which prevent that. Those baffles extend beyond where the E in Valve is... there are two large oil drains from the head there in that area as well, so on a steep grade there is no oil that can be sucked from that rear fitting. Also on a steep hill, altough you are pulling vacuum, I doubt there is enough vacuum to suck out oil from the intake side + like you said the PVC is pull vacuum two so there isn't an in-balance in pressure... But yah those baffles extend WAY beyond (back towards the firewall ) than where we put the fitting, so its optimal placement there. Also if running 500+ HP you can install another fitting in the same location on the other side of the valve cover.... But 800+ like on the article I posted, its better to leave it open because there isn't going to be enough vacuum to suck out the blowby coming off of it.

Side note, we thought about putting it on the side of the valve cover, the rear fitting, but it actually probably won't distribut pressure as evenly as the middle of the valve cover. At the same time fluid probably won't disperse uniformly as well.

Yah maybe AN's are the way to go... I suspect it is collapsing though as you said.... Lets just say DDing the thing and also on the track, I can tell pretty well what my setup is doing... I think I am going to ask Luke to see what he suggests.
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Old 01-27-2009, 08:54 PM   #77
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Well, I honestly think the setup you posted is going to be perfect for me. Im making right around the 400whp range and I dont consider myself to have a blow by problem. The bottem end is fresh and built but its an sr, so with using the stock T fitting the piston blow by that is always going to be there is being taken care of while maintaining a vaccume in the crank case but the only oil I see is mierly oil vapor (not much at all) in the can and I think its just mostly because of the bad design of the t fitting allowing oil to come in from the lower block, not the head. I honestly thing having the lower block feed the valve cover and then pull from the top of the valve cover through the baffiling was REALLY smart. I am so interested in seeing exactly where and what size the holes are.
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:02 PM   #78
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Sorry unless I do some more work, I am tired to pull the valve cover... but lets just say its very close to where the fitting is.....
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:17 PM   #79
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Its cool. I guess im just kind of wanting an idea of how many holes, and what size drill bit. Like super tiny dremil sized or what. Maybe someone will get this done soon and pics can be taken then. I understand it is a fare amount of trouble to remove the valve cover for nothing, expecially if you have all the coils bolted down, and you always run the risk of a leak then unless you have newer gaskets.
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:18 PM   #80
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The placement wasn't just thought of all by me, I gotta give some credit to Blu808. We had a compromise and as I thought about it more, it worked best this way that was all...
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:45 PM   #81
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There is no real reason of me keeping this a secret. It's not like i make money of you guys anyways. If any of you guys have a tig welder, and can do aluminum feel free. I don't know when we will have a valve cover off again, but I will take a few pics when I do. We simply came up with this solution as a cheaper alternative to the s14.3 valve cover modification. If this was my engine I would either run real push lock hoses, or stainless A/N lines. Either way the fittings that are welded on are -8 male A/N so you can put whatever you want on in the future.

Also as a note. Anytime you weld on aluminum that has been around oil you need to take it down to a fresh layer or else it will not be able to be welded. This is usually more of a concern with oil pans, but it is critical in this situation to keep any leaks from occurring.

I can be reached via:

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Thanks. Luke
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:12 PM   #82
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Just to add to that.... this is mostly my DD, so if I don't finish it, I can't go home.... so we had to get it done that night.... So when I have more time, I will make it look better
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:44 PM   #83
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definitely something i'll be getting

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Old 01-27-2009, 11:03 PM   #84
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:32 AM   #85
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very informative ken
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:39 AM   #86
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Eh.... its a lot of work... Still got some work to do, I don't think this is the final solution until I head to laguna and jump it on the dyno...
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:40 AM   #87
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I have been following your write up on here and nice work! I am interested in this setup. I just bought my 240 w/S15 swap from my buddy and this thread got me looking into what he had done. He has run from the valve cover straight to a catch can and then it stops there. Is this a problem? And if so is this set-up the solution?
Thanks
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:50 AM   #88
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Hello everybady.

My name is Yasu from Japan.

I want to know SR engine is famous in overthere?

because I have one 180SX at the morment.

But how can I sell is I don't know.

If ok,Please let me know about it.

thank you

Yasu
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Old 01-28-2009, 10:20 AM   #89
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S15 are slant tops, they don't really have this problem but yes in general it should go back into the intake..... from your catch...
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:19 AM   #90
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this is a super stupid ass question... the tube from the valve cover originally that goes into that pipe on the block that's a bitch to move goes straight to the oil pan? I should probably check my fsm but hey it's a free bump for you lol.
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