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Old 10-13-2009, 12:02 PM   #1
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KA S13 KA24DE Wiring Question (Coil and Resistor)

I don't have one infront of me, and probably won't for a while, so I am hoping someone can chime in with some personal experience on this.

In short; what happens to your ignition system if you disconnect wire/pin 3 @ the ecu. It is for the "resistor/condensor" which is that little orange/brown box taped next to your ignitor/coil wiring, on the USDM drivers side strut tower.

Basically I need to know if that resistor/condensor has to be switched over by the ecu for the coil and ignitor to function, or if it runs fine.

Also, if you are prone to it, if you could pickup what signal, if any the ecu puts out (either ground or 12v, I know its not a pwm), that would be good too, if that cannot be bypassed.

Thanks in advance,

John
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Old 10-15-2009, 01:51 PM   #2
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Anyone?

Or is it, "if john doesn't have the answer, no one does"... b/c that would just suck
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:28 AM   #3
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Anyone?

Or is it, "if john doesn't have the answer, no one does"... b/c that would just suck
Well I know im a little late on the post but did u ever replace the resistor? And did u loose all spark because of it?
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:32 PM   #4
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I know this is a old old post but my ka24de wont start. i replaced the ignition relay. That was toast. I tested it. it wasn't giving any 12 vo switched power. So, now it cranks but wont turn over. i smell fuel. I replaced fuel pump. Thats not it either. It started and ran for a few times after i put in t he fuel pump But ran like crap. Finally, it didnt start anymore. But always cranks. But anyways i replaced the starter(probably didnt' have to). So, i was noticed a few years back that i burned up this orange brown/black plug near the Ignition coil igniter/power transistor . It caught fire and smoked. BUt, i ran for over 5-6 months fine with the dropping resistor thing burned . Now my car wont start. wont turn over. Will this burned resistor cause a no start? I checked for spark a few months ago, but it was faint spark.
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Old 08-26-2019, 08:56 PM   #5
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Yes condenser/ resistor there for ignition system. If not working car will not start or even have any spark. IF goes bad the ignition coil will become extreme hot to point that you cannot touch it. Examine the little condenser/ resistor box by opening it, and see if damage, melted, and see if there resistance on it with multi meter.
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:10 AM   #6
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FAST

Fuel

Air

Spark

Timing

check these 4 things and report back.
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it'll fit JANK.. and no one likes Jank except Broke ass zilvians.
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:16 PM   #7
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Im going to check fuel. I don't know if the ecu is sending injector pulses. Or not.but i plan to . I might just shoot starting fluid to intake and crank it. Just to verify if my piston froze I had a lot of moisture in my oil dipstick.i think my fuel tank had water in it. Because the trunk seal was old and rain dumped into the trunk and the o ring for the fuel pump was old. Too. So, in march 2018, i cleaned the gas tank up. I took my hand and wiped it down with paper towel. Alot of rust and sediment dirt was at the bottom. Half my fuel was water. Could i hydrolocked my engine in late 2017 when i was driving all the time while with water in my gas tank? unknowingly. thanks brndck @ Kennedy8383 How do i check resistance of the resistor if the casing its in is all melted.?
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Old 08-30-2019, 07:30 PM   #8
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Im going to check fuel. I don't know if the ecu is sending injector pulses. Or not.but i plan to . I might just shoot starting fluid to intake and crank it. Just to verify if my piston froze I had a lot of moisture in my oil dipstick.i think my fuel tank had water in it. Because the trunk seal was old and rain dumped into the trunk and the o ring for the fuel pump was old. Too. So, in march 2018, i cleaned the gas tank up. I took my hand and wiped it down with paper towel. Alot of rust and sediment dirt was at the bottom. Half my fuel was water. Could i hydrolocked my engine in late 2017 when i was driving all the time while with water in my gas tank? unknowingly. thanks brndck @ Kennedy8383 How do i check resistance of the resistor if the casing its in is all melted.?
If fuel pump prime then the ecu working and sending fuel to rail to front of the engine. The crank angle send pulse to fuel injector. When you turn it by hand you should hear tick, tick, tick sound on injector, and should be spraying fuel. For the resistor and condenser. There little box that look square on top. Just use 2 small screw flat head. Pry top where the little tab is, and on side there little tap to lift up. Once it come out freely, there 4 terminal on it. and look on side to see if anything melted. it should be 2.2 ohm. If condenser and resistor goes bad it should be out of spec. Usually these thing don't go bad unless cross wire or short circuit.
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Old 09-01-2019, 01:25 PM   #9
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I just ran into this problem on Thursday. I was driving my car with no issues, and when I tried starting it up after pulling cash out of an atm, it just wouldn't start. I literally had it off for like 2-3 min

It would just click. And if I tried to give it gas while trying to turn it on it felt almost as if my engine would shake. so I left my car parked for a couple of hours and when I tried it again it started with no issue.

so I drove it my house with no issue. I turned it off and fired it back up, again to my surprise- no issue starting it up that time either.
so the very next morning I fired up my car and drove to my friend's shop so I could order an ignition switch. (I've been needing a new one since May... the previous owner wanted to do switch to start, but he tapped into the ECU from the wrong side and kinda fried a wire (maybe starter relay or something like that. But it is a black wire coming from the top of the started. so I got it redone and changed back to normal key in ignition startup). again the car was running fine at this point. but after I left his shop and went back to my car the same issue it wouldn't start.

we tested my battery (3months old) it read that it was good
we checked my distributor rotor and cap and they were a little corroded so I
went and got a new cap and rotor from autozone, and when installed the car fired up with ease no issue whatsoever. so he told me to drive it around the block and see how it feels.. the.
mt car only made it half way upo the hill/ block before losing power. and it did so when i changed from second to third gear. At this point, my car is facing uphill with absoultuely no power so just reversed back down to his shop. and we did all the same things we did the first time to see it if it would start up. but it wouldnt. so we did a test to see if my engine has spark and it no longer did.
Could it be that my ignition switch finally took a crap on me? or is it something deeper?

Last edited by jcx2000; 09-01-2019 at 01:31 PM.. Reason: mispelling
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Old 09-04-2019, 07:01 PM   #10
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Engine swap, what motor, any electrical wiring done before, and etc. Ignition switch can be bad and have you try wiggling it to see if anything electrical cutting off and on?
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Old 09-05-2019, 08:22 PM   #11
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just looked at the id plate under the hood. The car was originally an auto hicas ka24de. But its since been swapped for a manual tranny sometimes long before my ownership. I picked the car up in May so I'm not too sure on every single thing that was done before my ownership. But the only wiring I've done while owning it was changing it back from the switch to start to normal turn-key ignition


but for as long as I've had the car I would kinda have to mess with the key/ ignition to get bit started. I eventually took off the plastic housing behind the steering wheel covering the ignition switch and all that. and all I would have to do to start my car was press in/ hold the ignition switch in place against the rest of the assembly and it would start just fine. every time.

and when I tried to fire it up this time it would just crank hard. even if I try to play with the switch it still doesn't fire up.

should I just wait a couple more days for the new ignition switch to get here, or should I still keep trying to get
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Old 09-07-2019, 12:43 PM   #12
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Update: I tried to start the car for heck of hit, the day before yesterday, it started. Today tried to start it up again... it did with no issue. Also turns out I get the ignition switch today.
Soooo ima just wait to see if it fires up again when I install it
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Old 11-15-2019, 03:20 AM   #13
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Update: i figure out it was my fuel pump. I couldnt believe it was my fuel pump. Because in march 2018 i replaced it with a new one. Old one died because it was original from 1991-92. Finally it died in 2017. anyway, i bought a cheap 25 dollar cardone fuel pump on amazon. That is why. I thought it couldnt be that which is why i went to investigate injector driver issue, ecu, bad igniter chip , bad transistor. bad resistor and capacitor . I check for spark but was very faint. But i guess i was just imagining it being faint. I guess it's normal my car running good again. i bought a delphi fuel pump.
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Old 11-21-2019, 07:04 PM   #14
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Update: i figure out it was my fuel pump. I couldnt believe it was my fuel pump. Because in march 2018 i replaced it with a new one. Old one died because it was original from 1991-92. Finally it died in 2017. anyway, i bought a cheap 25 dollar cardone fuel pump on amazon. That is why. I thought it couldnt be that which is why i went to investigate injector driver issue, ecu, bad igniter chip , bad transistor. bad resistor and capacitor . I check for spark but was very faint. But i guess i was just imagining it being faint. I guess it's normal my car running good again. i bought a delphi fuel pump.

I don't see how bad fuel pump cause spark plug to go bad. Have you try test resistance on fuel pump. It should be 0.5 resistance on it and nothing higher than that.
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