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Old 10-03-2019, 11:03 PM   #1
2.5T_/<ouki
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is my diff toast?

97’ Q45 diff. It doesn’t have in/out or side to side play, however there seems to be some “play” almost as if it turns a quarter of an inch before it engages with the ring gear and you can clearly hear it from the video.

Story: I had shimmed the diff and literally had a HELL OF A TIME trying to get everything back in the housing with the races and spacers. It almost feels like it’s not in ALL the way however I am unable to seat it any further.

Would my symptoms be caused from it not being properly seated in all the way? Would a crushed adjustment spaced cause this?

Thanks

https://youtu.be/1OT1jgrXD0E
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Old 10-04-2019, 07:53 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2.5T_/<ouki View Post
97í Q45 diff. It doesnít have in/out or side to side play, however there seems to be some ďplayĒ almost as if it turns a quarter of an inch before it engages with the ring gear and you can clearly hear it from the video.

Story: I had shimmed the diff and literally had a HELL OF A TIME trying to get everything back in the housing with the races and spacers. It almost feels like itís not in ALL the way however I am unable to seat it any further.

Would my symptoms be caused from it not being properly seated in all the way? Would a crushed adjustment spaced cause this?

Thanks

https://youtu.be/1OT1jgrXD0E
Were you able to get the caps back in and torqued to spec?
If the diff isnt seated properly, the ring gear wont engage the pinion correctly. Grab some gear marking compound, put it on the ring gear and spin it from the pinion end. Look at the tooth engagement and compare it to the FSM. Should tell you whats wrong.
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Old 10-04-2019, 08:29 AM   #3
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sounds like shims were not put back correctly...
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Old 10-04-2019, 08:34 AM   #4
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check your back lash by using a dial indicator and a magnetic mount. +1 on also checking your engagement with marking compound
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Old 10-04-2019, 10:08 AM   #5
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check your back lash by using a dial indicator and a magnetic mount. +1 on also checking your engagement with marking compound

Only way to know 100% sure
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Old 10-04-2019, 11:57 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusty_s13 View Post
Were you able to get the caps back in and torqued to spec?
If the diff isnt seated properly, the ring gear wont engage the pinion correctly. Grab some gear marking compound, put it on the ring gear and spin it from the pinion end. Look at the tooth engagement and compare it to the FSM. Should tell you whats wrong.
Tbh, i havenít torqued the caps back in all the way to spec so Iím guessing itís not seated all the way in? Honestly I had a hell of a time and truly the only way I was able to get it seated as far as I did, was to drop the nose on the ground and let gravity do the trick LOL!

Just didnít want to tighten the caps if I had to pull it out again. Iíll torque then and check thanks!
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Old 10-04-2019, 11:58 AM   #7
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sounds like shims were not put back correctly...
I literally had a HELL OF A TIME getting everything in. Shins are in correct spots and correct sides, just feels itís not seared properly.
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Old 10-04-2019, 12:24 PM   #8
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Well if the caps are on, n bolts torqued then its in all the way, like stated before, check backlash n mesh pattern and ull know 100%
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Old 10-04-2019, 03:12 PM   #9
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Thanks guys, got everything torqued and still having this play so I’ll check backlash. Appreciate all the responses.
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Old 10-11-2019, 10:51 AM   #10
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Following this, I have a similar issue with an R200 VLSD in my zenki. I believe the shims are all stock from both sides, but the play internally is what youre describing. Keep this thread updated with info on the backlash. Except mines worse and its more like an 1/8th of a turn lol
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Old 10-14-2019, 08:37 AM   #11
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Honestly I had a hell of a time and truly the only way I was able to get it seated as far as I did, was to drop the nose on the ground and let gravity do the trick LOL!
This made me cringe a little bit. i was recently taught a trick for installing those shims while i did the carrier in my differential. Use a 5 gallon bucket to hold the differential upright, as you're tapping in the shims rotate the gears to evenly preload the bearings. Everything should seat properly and will be a hell of a lot easier this way. After that just torque the caps down and then get your engagement pattern with grease.
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Old 10-15-2019, 05:19 PM   #12
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damn, its 2019 and people still playing with old trash VLSDs
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Old 10-15-2019, 05:48 PM   #13
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^Dam, Its 2019 and this guy finally made hiss 167 post since 2012. CONGRATS
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Old 10-15-2019, 06:21 PM   #14
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^Dam, Its 2019 and this guy finally made hiss 167 post since 2012. CONGRATS
thanks florida, quality not quantity is what i say.

On the real tho, shimming VLSDs are a great way to put more metal in your fluid and overload the side bearings squeezing it back in the pumpkin. I didnt even waste my time with the one that came in my car. Just weld it or get a real LSD.
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Old 10-15-2019, 06:23 PM   #15
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thanks florida, quality not quantity is what i say.

On the real tho, shimming VLSDs are a great way to put more metal in your fluid and overload the side bearings squeezing it back in the pumpkin. I didnt even waste my time with the one that came in my car. Just weld it or get a real LSD.
Yup...lots of quality
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Old 10-16-2019, 09:54 AM   #16
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how does that put more in? if the spacing is setup correctly it should operate the same as any other locking diff...the multi clutch diffs would be more prone to putting "more metal in your fluid" but again if setup properly should be able to function perfectly fine without wearing out abnormally fast...also don't recommend welded...hit a corner in some rain and prepare for some fun lol!
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