This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[mmdb]

Yeah check the thread you were reading again. There's pix of it in the first few pages. Whoops someone posted it already... That was fast. If you're in teresred in a moderate roll center change I'd only install it for the front. Installing it for the rear could cause suspension binding and or unwanted dynamic suspension changes.

Ask if peaks shank were up dated. I used it a few years ago and it snapped on me in the parking lot.

[Pandapants]

Thanks.
I tried searching Sunline Racing earlier, but I got a japanese website.
I found a USA page but either I'm blind or on the wrong webpage, but I didn't see the rca mentioned on pg1.
That's why I only brought up moonface and greddy
Is there a domestic company that distributes Sunline products?
Sorry for all the questions :/

[Def]

Peak tie rods look like any other cheap tie rod outer you can buy for these cars. The rod end they use doesn't have enough misalignment capability.

If you guys are talking about spending $300 for a very minor correction in roll center - is there genuine interest in a set of spindles for say $1000-1200 and aluminum arms for maybe $200. Add in the price of hubs(probably use off the shelf Nissan stuff from another car) and ball joints/shanks for more adjustability - so another $350.

I'm seriously considering it given the talk in this thread, but I'm wondering if it's just talk when it comes down to the price being about $1500-1800 for a set of aluminum/adjustable spindles plus control arms up front. On the plus side, you'd have new hubs and ball joints up front, so you could maybe consider some of it maintenance expense.

So what's the Zilvia response? I'm thinking if people have such a problem with $300 for a set of rear spherical bearings they'd freak at the thought of spending this much on their car.

[PoorMans180SX]

I would buy them. It would take me a while, as I don't make a whole lot of money right now, but I would for sure buy them. In fact, after I get this engine in my car, I would save up for them.

Some sort of steering axis adjustment (like driftworks) would be cool too.

I really do have big plans, hahah.

[Pandapants]

I really like the how the spindle is moved upwards on the Driftworks.
If yours would be anything like that, I'd be interested.

I really like my ride height as is, but hate how shitty it handles.

[mmdb]

Originally Posted by Def

So what's the Zilvia response? I'm thinking if people have such a problem with $300 for a set of rear spherical bearings they'd freak at the thought of spending this much on their car.

Yeah I'd buy 'em. I'm going to see Mike at Tower tomorrow. You two should get together and make some damn knuckles. It's like the end-all of suspension modifications for the 240.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Def

So what's the Zilvia response? I'm thinking if people have such a problem with $300 for a set of rear spherical bearings they'd freak at the thought of spending this much on their car.

I think you just answered you're own question


So far so good Jacob on your FLCA...have 1500ish miles on the entire setup and it rides like a dream.

[95KA-Turbo]

Originally Posted by Def

Peak tie rods look like any other cheap tie rod outer you can buy for these cars. The rod end they use doesn't have enough misalignment capability.

If you guys are talking about spending $300 for a very minor correction in roll center - is there genuine interest in a set of spindles for say $1000-1200 and aluminum arms for maybe $200. Add in the price of hubs(probably use off the shelf Nissan stuff from another car) and ball joints/shanks for more adjustability - so another $350.

I'm seriously considering it given the talk in this thread, but I'm wondering if it's just talk when it comes down to the price being about $1500-1800 for a set of aluminum/adjustable spindles plus control arms up front. On the plus side, you'd have new hubs and ball joints up front, so you could maybe consider some of it maintenance expense.

So what's the Zilvia response? I'm thinking if people have such a problem with $300 for a set of rear spherical bearings they'd freak at the thought of spending this much on their car.

I would be willing to spend between 1000 and 1400 bucks on something like this. I don't think 1800 is unreasonable I just don't think you'd really be able to sell them. I mean fuck, people think 800 dollars is expensive for coilovers.

If you could make it so the stock hubs/ball joints - or if you could request a taper difference to run the shanks I have on my car it would save some money.

I don't have any money for something like that right now anyway - which is why I am attempting to build my own crap. I guess we'll see how that goes when I drive it.

[mmdb]

^ speaking of which, I had a set made using OEM parts, a bit of machining, and some spacers. I bet I could pack it up and sell it. Well... if someone wants to volunteer (someone who actually drives their car) then I can work with you to do it. This will only be for the front though.

[Def]

Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo

I would be willing to spend between 1000 and 1400 bucks on something like this. I don't think 1800 is unreasonable I just don't think you'd really be able to sell them. I mean fuck, people think 800 dollars is expensive for coilovers.

If you could make it so the stock hubs/ball joints - or if you could request a taper difference to run the shanks I have on my car it would save some money.

I don't have any money for something like that right now anyway - which is why I am attempting to build my own crap. I guess we'll see how that goes when I drive it.

That's where the problem starts - people wanting to use this part or that part. Honestly, the stock FLCA suck swollen donkey balls. The inner bushing is horrible because they move forward/aft as the arm moves, so it binds up if you have something reasonably stiff(urethane), or you have to make do with a soft squishy bushing on the inside.

The stock upright also has the balljoint really inclined - most likely to keep 300k mile cars with the stock balljoints from popping the joint apart in corners. The incline loads them in a downwards axial direction with cornering. That's not really how you want to load a spherical bearing(you want pure radial), so I was thinking of making the arms with no incline to the balljoint. Which brings me to the arms... I already have some arms, but if I'm getting crap made, hey, why not toss some more parts in there... Plus there will be more adjustability on the roll center and track width with the arms.

I plan to build some adjustability in the upright, so I might make the lower balljoint portion modular, but that might make the machining a bit more complicated. Although the volume is low enough, and that's a pretty minor change(taper angle), that I'm thinking it could probably be custom machined for each person. But I would strongly suggest ditching the stock arms.

The $1800 price is after you include hubs and stuff like that I'm thinking, and on the high side. I'm thinking I could reduce the cost a bit with some creative design.

Think of it this way, most people have 5 lug hubs already - sell those for a couple hundred bucks and you're already most of the way towards buying BRAND NEW NISSAN hubs.

And mmdb, of course I'll be working with Mike on this. He actually approached me ~6-8 months ago and mentioned the hubs, and I really didn't think there was enough market to make it worthwhile... but I've been in a designing mood lately so I thought I might give it a shot.


I don't expect these uprights to weigh much less than the stock steel ones, but they will be WAY stiffer, and will have some cool features built into them.

[mmdb]

Originally Posted by Def

That's where the problem starts - people wanting to use this part or that part. Honestly, the stock FLCA suck swollen donkey balls. The inner bushing is horrible because they move forward/aft as the arm moves, so it binds up if you have something reasonably stiff(urethane), or you have to make do with a soft squishy bushing on the inside.

The stock upright also has the balljoint really inclined - most likely to keep 300k mile cars with the stock balljoints from popping the joint apart in corners. The incline loads them in a downwards axial direction with cornering. That's not really how you want to load a spherical bearing(you want pure radial), so I was thinking of making the arms with no incline to the balljoint. Which brings me to the arms... I already have some arms, but if I'm getting crap made, hey, why not toss some more parts in there... Plus there will be more adjustability on the roll center and track width with the arms.

I plan to build some adjustability in the upright, so I might make the lower balljoint portion modular, but that might make the machining a bit more complicated. Although the volume is low enough, and that's a pretty minor change(taper angle), that I'm thinking it could probably be custom machined for each person. But I would strongly suggest ditching the stock arms.

The $1800 price is after you include hubs and stuff like that I'm thinking, and on the high side. I'm thinking I could reduce the cost a bit with some creative design.

Think of it this way, most people have 5 lug hubs already - sell those for a couple hundred bucks and you're already most of the way towards buying BRAND NEW NISSAN hubs.

And mmdb, of course I'll be working with Mike on this. He actually approached me ~6-8 months ago and mentioned the hubs, and I really didn't think there was enough market to make it worthwhile... but I've been in a designing mood lately so I thought I might give it a shot.


I don't expect these uprights to weigh much less than the stock steel ones, but they will be WAY stiffer, and will have some cool features built into them.

Sweet! Way to man up! Put me down for a set. In the meanwhile I'm getting my DW rear spindles back from Skullworks. I was hoping they'd color 'em hot pink... something hot. But they hit 'em with the black. Oh well. I'll post up pix tomorrow or the day after. They also have sphericals in them as well. Now I can fly up to San Fran with my rear shocks and have 'em modified. Yippeee! Anyone live Santa Cruz that can tell more if there's any good surf breaks out there?

[95KA-Turbo]

I actually need another set of spindles because I drilled mine wrong...so if anyone has a pair of OEM S14 spindles please let me know! They need to work with 5-lug hubs.



I am also rethinking my tie rod ends, its pretty well accepted that a straight 5/8 bolt will be strong enough to space down the rod end a couple of inches?

Do you think this is strong enough?

Material Type - Steel
Finish - Black-Oxide
Grade/Class - Not Rated
Type -Equal Thread Length Rods and Studs
Equal Thread Length Type - Standard
Steel Type - C1541 Steel
Shank Type - Round with Flats
Thread Direction - Right Hand Thread
Inch Thread Size - 5/8"-11
Thread Length- 1-3/4"
Overall Length- 5-1/2"
Rockwell Hardness - Minimum C27
Minimum Tensile Strength - 125,000 psi
Thread Fit - Class 2A
Matching Hex Nut - 95479A125
Specifications Met - Not Rated


Its a threaded shank:



That way I wouldn't have to worry about the hex head of a bolt getting in the way of the heim joint movement.

[Def]

You're going to need a nut on both ends, so same thing. That's a stud btw - and I'd just use a Grade 8 bolt.

[95KA-Turbo]

Cool, well do you think the 0.625" spacers they sell on McMaster Carr are good enough to use to space out the bolt? They come in 1" and smaller lengths.

[Def]

Sure, those would work fine. You could also cut some DOM tubing if you want to save some money and can make perpendicular cuts on the tubing.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Def

That's where the problem starts - people wanting to use this part or that part. Honestly, the stock FLCA suck swollen donkey balls. The inner bushing is horrible because they move forward/aft as the arm moves, so it binds up if you have something reasonably stiff(urethane), or you have to make do with a soft squishy bushing on the inside.

etc....

Please make these. Sounds amazing and definitely parts I want on my car.

Please make the hub at least raised as much as the driftworks front knuckles (are you talking about making hub height itself adjustable?).

While you're at it, make the tie rod end double shear, and sell it with shanks that will fit through some aftermarket tie rod end *cough*SoSideways*cough*. Then use some machined spacers so they're adjustable. This would be a sick package. (Skullworks, Def, SoSideways team-up?)

I would gladly spend $1400-$1800 if this included new hubs and FLCA. GLADLY.

BTW, if you wanted to make the ultimate combo, you could use Peak Performance chromoly front hubs.

[mmdb]

First off I want to Thank for Skullworks providing the awesomeness they make. Straight madness yo!! Work is top notch up!! Secondly, I witnessed some awesomesness at the Skullworks HQ. I had a baby shower to go to, and this is what I found! These babies (pictures below) are decked with mad bling via spherical bearings! No non-baller k-mart status bushings here! Now I gotsa make sure the ebrake lines are coo since the ebrake is on the opposite end. So a lil more work to do, but it's getting there. Hope I can get these in by the next track event. I really would like a working ebrake

Skullworks. Nuff said!

[drftwerks]

lol
all this re-inventing of the s-chassis.

why not just see/use what works

dentsport garage
or
exceed moat.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by drftwerks

lol
all this re-inventing of the s-chassis.

why not just see/use what works

dentsport garage
or
exceed moat.

Cool post.

[KA24sleeper]

OooooooOOOOOOoooooo want me a pair of those

[Z33dori]

Originally Posted by mmdb

First off I want to Thank for Skullworks providing the awesomeness they make. Straight madness yo!! Work is top notch up!! Secondly, I witnessed some awesomesness at the Skullworks HQ. I had a baby shower to go to, and this is what I found! These babies (pictures below) are decked with mad bling via spherical bearings! No non-baller k-mart status bushings here! Now I gotsa make sure the ebrake lines are coo since the ebrake is on the opposite end. So a lil more work to do, but it's getting there. Hope I can get these in by the next track event. I really would like a working ebrake

Skullworks. Nuff said!

are these copies of DW?

[mmdb]

No they're sp tec originals copied by driftworks, and fixed and improved by skullworks via spherical bearings and an opening for the ebrake cable to pass through to the assembly.

[GripTerror]

Def when you're speaking of new hubs as well I always wondered what would be alternate options for lower offset/wider/heavier (obviously) wheels. Say a grip car that has 295/30/18 or even 315/30/18s up front (all fitment issues aside)... running something like 18x11 up front with grippy tires... and rears with 18x13 and such... the sad lil stock hubs/wheel bearings suck at taking it.

I know alot of folks here will not run such wide sizes as most are just into drifting and even for grip not alot of folks run such sizes. Very few do... PJ ran 285s up front and was fine but his car is an autox car.

If you're going all the way in such a respect I would hope something like this gets evaluated as well. May sound like reinventing the s chassis to be a corvette in disguise but different strokes for different folks. Don't want to part out my already built car just to get a corvette but rather go all the way with this car as is.

[Def]

An off-the-shelf Nissan bearing for a car that weighs ~1000 lbs more than a light S-chassis car should be fine for holding the loads. Wheel bearings don't last forever when you really start pounding on them, so just keep that in mind.

[SicBastard]

Originally Posted by Def

An off-the-shelf Nissan bearing for a car that weighs ~1000 lbs more than a light S-chassis car should be fine

What bearing are you refering too?

[95KA-Turbo]

Originally Posted by SoSideways

The Tein S-chassis inners have like, 2" of threaded portion, and from what I could gather, is about 2" or so longer than the stock tie rods, and stock tie rods are the same length as the Z32 and Tein Z33 tie rods.

The problem with cutting the inners down would be that, I cannot provide that service for the others; people would have to find machine shops in their area to have their tie rods milled down, or if they don't have a machine shop nearby, they'd have to send it out. Not efficient or cost effective for anyone.

So, just to clarify, the Z32 and Z33 inner tie rods are the same length? The tie rod ends I made are pretty long and one of my inner tie rods is shot anyway, so I need to order new ones. I'd rather not have to cut up new tie rods.

Does anyone have any actual measurements I couldn't find any online.

[swiftmini]

Originally Posted by mmdb

No they're sp tec originals copied by driftworks, and fixed and improved by skullworks via spherical bearings and an opening for the ebrake cable to pass through to the assembly.

So apart from the lack of sphericals (which i dont want/need) and the handbrake cable routing are these recommended? Iam just about to place my order but wanted to double check on here.

Cheers

Nice work on the sphericals btw

[swiftmini]

Originally Posted by mmdb

No they're sp tec originals copied by driftworks, and fixed and improved by skullworks via spherical bearings and an opening for the ebrake cable to pass through to the assembly.

So apart from the lack of sphericals (which i dont want/need) and the handbrake cable routing are these recommended? Iam just about to place my order but wanted to double check on here.

Cheers

Nice work on the sphericals btw

[GripTerror]

On this note, Def do it. What you said you would do.

[mmdb]

Originally Posted by swiftmini

So apart from the lack of sphericals (which i dont want/need) and the handbrake cable routing are these recommended? Iam just about to place my order but wanted to double check on here.

Cheers

Nice work on the sphericals btw

I do really, really like the improvement the front spindles have brought. With the absence of the rear spindles, there is a bit more understeer at the limit than I would like. But once the rears are installed I can expect that the rear roll center height increase will add more loading to the rear - adding better rotation.

Post your review back here once you get them installed. I'm really curious bout the improvement for the rears. Good luck!