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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 08-22-2016, 07:18 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Jorgs_7 View Post
Get back to us after the in-person view.
Hey moved to 6500, car ran well, straight piped, fresh inspection, clean body and very straight... Paint is the only thing, pulled well under boost as well
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Old 08-22-2016, 07:29 PM   #32
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.............So you bought it for that price??
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Old 08-22-2016, 07:30 PM   #33
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No, I told him I'd think about it and came back here to see what you guys thought
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:00 PM   #34
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Meh. It's up to you to make that call. I have a biased view lol
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:03 PM   #35
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Meh. It's up to you to make that call. I have a biased view lol
It's expensive but surprising seemed solid
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:06 PM   #36
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You're the one spending the dough. Try to negotiate a lower price (stock 20+ year old engine, no receipts, no coolant bottle, no coolant setup, welded diff, etc etc.)

Again, at the end, your $$$$ and it's only worth what you are willing to pay

Goodluck!
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:25 PM   #37
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There actually were fans and a shroud around them controlled by a switch wired to turn off when the motor does
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:24 AM   #38
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How did the paint look in person?
Cloudy?
Single stage?
Good mask job?

....rattle canned?
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:35 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Jorgs_7 View Post
How did the paint look in person?
Cloudy?
Single stage?
Good mask job?

....rattle canned?
not a rattle can but you can tell its not a quality job, can see a little white around the window trim and what not... hood is a bit cloudy as well...
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:58 AM   #40
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not a rattle can but you can tell its not a quality job, can see a little white around the window trim and what not... hood is a bit cloudy as well...
Are you cool with rocking that paint?

That is why a faded OEM finish is better, allows for a good exisiting base to re-spray over.

But now that its already been re-sprayed poorly, does that need to be stripped? Tough to know through the internet

Id ask him more details about the paint job, what was used, etc.
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:02 AM   #41
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You know what i think of it. It is going to cost you at least as much as you are going to pay for it in the next couple of years. A fan controler can be bought for less than 50$, or built for half of that ( static switch + holder, relay, fuse holder, wire, there you go). A stock looking overflow tank from gktech is around 80$ too. the owner clearly decided he would not spend a dime anymore on that car.
At least make a compression test before deciding anything. The engines can pull well even with 110psi in each cylinder.

Ultimately, it is your money, so your choice. i know i would never pay that kind of money for a drifter's s13 with a bad paint job. But i got mine 10 years ago so things may be different now.
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:10 AM   #42
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You know what i think of it. It is going to cost you at least as much as you are going to pay for it in the next couple of years. A fan controler can be bought for less than 50$, or built for half of that ( static switch + holder, relay, fuse holder, wire, there you go). A stock looking overflow tank from gktech is around 80$ too. the owner clearly decided he would not spend a dime anymore on that car.
At least make a compression test before deciding anything. The engines can pull well even with 110psi in each cylinder.

Ultimately, it is your money, so your choice. i know i would never pay that kind of money for a drifter's s13 with a bad paint job. But i got mine 10 years ago so things may be different now.
how would i go about getting a compression check done?
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:29 AM   #43
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youtube and a trip to harbor freight. but really theres tons of detailed writeups about it. google "zilvia compression test" and find a diy. I partially agree with Croustibat though that there are a few suspect shortcomings, and if you intend to daily something so modified right out the gate you'll need to learn very quickly how to repair things on it. Have money for parts/tools
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Old 08-23-2016, 11:37 AM   #44
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how would i go about getting a compression check done?
Buy a compression tester, remove fuel pump fuse, try to start the car until the engine stops by being out of fuel. additionnal: clamp the fuel line.
Remove all spark plugs.
Install the tester in a cylinder, use starter motor with the throttle floored for some engine turns, until the compression tester gauge stops moving. Write down its number. Release the pressure in the tester with the button, unscrew it.
Repeat for the other 3 cylinders.

If compression is a bit low on a cylinder, you can try adding a teaspoon of oil through the spark plug hole and try it again. If compressions are back up, rings are the problem. If not, it usually is a valve not sealing well against its seat (worn valve, or seat, or valve guide, or bent valve)

If compression is low and similar on 2 adjacent cylinders, it usually is a leaking HG between the 2.

You can also test the coolant for oil contamination with strips, although i never did that so i cannot tell which one to buy.
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