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Old 04-04-2019, 09:26 PM   #31
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The clutch finally goes on after waiting 9 months to get it and another 2 to get home. Fits perfectly with OEM Honda hardware. When I went to install the clutch I noticed a part number on the 6 puck. Now I havent seen any logos so I looked it up. Turns out collins ships there trannsmission adapter kits with a stage 4 Ebay clutch. It's not a problem as I've used them before but it makes me wonder why this kit costs 2300$. I Also had to retap a 2nd hole on the adapter plate near the starter cause I found another hole that wasnt tapped al the way through.


After getting the transmission on for the first time I wanted to test the clutch engagement before putting the engine in, as theres no room to pull it in the car and many people in the CD009 everything theard have had issues with this. So I got creative and pulled the master off my car, bench bleed it and then gravity Bleed the slave. I couldnt get all the air out but with a bit of squish in the pedal and a heavy pry I could get the clutch to disengage. Something tells me I'm not gona like this heavy clutch so when the Ebay clutch goes I'll get the inlinePro twin disc.


The transmission has to come off as I only had 6 out of 9 pressure plate bolts at the time. But after I hammer the tunnel on the next dry day I'll install the motor and get cracking on the last of the odds and ends. While it rains tommorrow I'll just knock out welding on the exhaust.



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Old 04-08-2019, 07:33 PM   #32
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It's been a long weekend thinking about at the stuff I have to handle and store before I deploy in 18 days. I've been on the fence lately if I'll get to drive it before leaving again. Because before I leave, I have to pack my whole garage into storage and help my father prep to move out of state. Although these last few days of progress make it seem like I will at least get to hear it run, provided parts from Canton and summit get here quickly.

Friday I knocked out a heatshield for the fuel lines and body. Cleaned up the firewall from when I was using a VW coolant tank on the KAT and extended the body harness to fit around the heat shield. Also, while the motor was still out i went ahead and upgraded the oil cooler.






On Sauterday I got a couple buddys over and droped the motor and trans in for the final time. After notching the shifter hole I got the Gktech shifter in. After that, I went about checking clearances on the heatshield. Turns out it has great clearance to the down pipe but, not so much to the rear wastegate. Got a M8x1 to -4 banjo on the way to remedy this. Oh and when i pre-placed the remote oil filter I goofed and had it to far back to where the fittings were going run into the front wastegate screamer pipe. Moving it 2" forward fixed it and brought it even withe fittings coming off the block adapter.



Sunday and Today I focused on wiring and finishing the the fuel system. installed the Walbro 450lph pump by using a spare OEM hanger assembly as a guide. All that really has to be done is cut the bottom off the hanger and wiring it up. I found it weird I couldn't find a write up on this pump unlike the 255lph. While I had the pump out I crawled under and replaced the lines to the sender with E85 compatible hose. Took almost 3'.


The wiring has been kinda of a challenge to pick back up. First off i hastily cut my old Megasquirt harness during the part out and took a few important wires and connectors with it. Second most of the work i did on this harness was over a year ago and i had to fix a few mistakes the that gave me hell the first time i turned on the Haltech. Im very thankful Haltech has just as good if not better diagnostics then MegaSquirt with the addition of DTCs After good bit of fiddling tho its a about 70% wired up. It was a good feeling when i got the DBW throttle body working and seeing everything that was currently connected reading appropriately. Still got wire the cluster back in along with EBC, Flex fuel, turbo speed, Oil and Fuel pressure, and Brake input. Also need to look into my FPCU it works but it doesn't shut off on a low duty cycle like I thought it was supposed to but I guess ill just add in a fuel pump relay.

First start should be this weekend if all goes well...
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Old 04-11-2019, 04:12 AM   #33
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Today canton racing came threw with correct center bolt, an O-ring kit and a free catalog (love getting catalogs). Immediately set about finishing the lines for the remote oil filter/cooler setup. I didn't know this till now, but making short lines, less then 6 inchs, is much tougher to get right cause you gotta be spot on with the length.



After wards I went about finishing the turbo manifold. I couldn't weld it the garage cause its only on a shared 15amp circuit with one of the bedrooms and it over 200ft from the breaker. Can only reliably weld exhaust in the garage. Even though this house has a detached 3 bay garage cause of this is almost useless for fabrication or hobby work. The bays are also only like 3 foot deeper then an S13. Because of this Ive always had to use the air compressor from an outlet by the water heater room outside the house. Well told I decided to try and weld in that tiny ass room. I don't know what amp this outlet is rated for, this old house has a shit labeled breaker box, but it let me weld constantly at 130A which was what needed.

After finishing the tight spots on the runner 2 and 3, I attached runner 4 when the collet on my tig torch wore out. It would no longer hold the tungsten. At this time my neighbor dropped by and told me had a package on the porch, parts from summit. I then started cleaning up the wiring in prep for fire sleeving them. One thing I like to do when building my own stuff is to over build in hope to eliminate failures. Every drift event I went to the in the past I didn't have a second vehicle so I drove to the event 4 hours away, in it and home from it in the 240 with out fail. Then to work the next day for a well needed oil change. I can now trailer that car but I want to maintain this kinda of reliability with the this build. As such with all the extra power I've been working on a Z33 diff/axle swap with Aramada cover into an S13 subframe but i haven't worked on it in a long time, as its hard to find the right ring and pinion at a good price.



I couldn't finish the AN plumbing for the turbo oil feed and wastegates, as I had the manifold of off and the Banjo comes it own box tomorrow(today). But I did start throwing in the cooling system together. Then I ran into a problem. IDK how I made both lines fit at the same time in the past. But with the pieces I cut from a set of silicone S2000 hoses I could only make ether the top or the bottom long enough to work. I think once I find some 1.25 mild steel pipe I'll extend the lower coupler and put a mounting bracket on it to help keep the hose off the PS pulley.



All that's left to do for a start up is the Turbo manifold and the -4 oil feed to the turbo. after that i got a good bit of things to finish before i can actually drive it. Tomorrow I gotta move out the barracks back to my friends house am graduating from my 2nd C school and going on 2 weeks of leave prior to meeting my ship.

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Old 04-17-2019, 06:55 PM   #34
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It's been a long weekend piecing together that parts to make it run. Started off making a new radiator coupler using the summit one and a chunk of an old wastegate dump pipe. Looks pretty cheesy but it gets the job done.

Then got back to and finished welding the turbo manifold. Upon install I started to learn a hard lesson. When I first started making this manifold I was challenged with how to bolt up the turbo to the flange as there was no threads and it was to big to tap. At the time I thought it was brillant to cut the heads of some old KA headbolts, as they were also long enough for my collector flange heatsink, and weld them into place with the TIG. Oh, how wrong I was! Each time i went to thighten the nuts on the turbo on stud would break free of its welds. After about the 3rd time I gave up and got bolts to go threw the flange. Then in quick succession broke a drill bit and my favorite carbide burr, this was making for a really bad day. chucked another burr in the drill and eventually cleared the holes for through bolts, and notch the heads of the bolts.

Once everything was in place I installed the new AN to banjo fiting. Its really tight fit to both the wastegate and the heatshield. In the future i may have to slightly notch the wastegate for the banjo.

Next came the hood. And for now the S2000 radiator doesn't seem like a good idea as it's to tall it fit in between the power brace and the hood with the radaitor fill neck on it. but that's not going matter... on the other hand the K24 nearly fits without cutting a hole in the hood, thanks to making an oil pan the puts the windage tray basically on the power steering rack. If I notch the valve cover or bought a KMiata valve cover I wouldn't have to cut a hole.




later i will be putting on a Dmax vent to hid everything.

and after adding 5 quarts of oil to the pan and an addintional 2 quarts to the lines/filter/cooler.... its time to start it up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Oo7eSsAQFw

After priming the oil system, it started right up first try on a modified K20 base tune. I'm really starting like Haltech for its simplicity. Bad news, the oil pan I welded together long ago has a few welds dripping oil and I don't have time to make a new pan before I deploy. I really should of took my time and TIG welded it instead of MIG. So, that is all for now, Friday ill be putting it along with my entire garage in storage in preparation to leave. I'll be back late summer, early fall and hopefully I have place to work on this thing.
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Old 04-18-2019, 01:20 PM   #35
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those welds

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Old 04-23-2019, 12:38 AM   #36
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Really happy to see you making good progress with this.

I managed to pick up an F20C oil pump for super cheap on eBay for mine. Can't wait to start tearing into it, especially seeing how well you are getting on.

Good stuff man!
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Old 04-24-2019, 12:10 PM   #37
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Really happy to see you making good progress with this.

I managed to pick up an F20C oil pump for super cheap on eBay for mine. Can't wait to start tearing into it, especially seeing how well you are getting on.

Good stuff man!
Why did you grab the f20c oil pump do you plan to rev it to the moon?

The other day I have the 240 put into storage at friends house along with all my tools at another friends. Already made it worth it getting my F250, this thing is a beast at towing didnt even feel the 240 was behind it. The overloaded tool trailer tho took a bit more slipping of the clutch in 1st to get going smoothly.

While I had the car on the trailer I took some important measurements for making a new oil pan, non one stitched together from a old pan. I missing key measurements for the oil pan flange but the pan is starting to shape up in Autodesk Inventor. Took some pictures for reference. With custom made pan I belive I could drop the motor another 1/4 to ³/8th of an inch to get the vavle cover under the hood if I want to drop the motor more. Right now part of the oil pan flange is basically sitting on the rack as you can see.

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Old 04-24-2019, 04:56 PM   #38
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those welds

It works tho, who cares?
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Old 04-24-2019, 05:16 PM   #39
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It works tho, who cares?
except for the fact that the OP said the pan leaks at some of the welds.
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Old 04-24-2019, 05:41 PM   #40
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except for the fact that the OP said the pan leaks at some of the welds.
I'm not sure if its welds or it from the flange which got little warped, cause I leak tested it before I left for boot camp. Its realy hard to tell on a gloss black pan. I never want it to be the finally pan anyways it got really janky after cutting the back for rack clearance then winging out the sump. When I'm done modeling it up I'll share some screen shots. But I do need some help getting measurements for the oil pan flange. It's close based of what I know from my pan and what moroso says on their site but i I deffinalty need bolt hole locations.

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Old 04-25-2019, 09:15 AM   #41
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cant wait to see the inventor shots. i just got back into autocad last week after a 5+ year hiatus.
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Old 04-25-2019, 03:20 PM   #42
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Other then using Autocad in highschool for Co2 cars about 10 years ago, I've never used Autocad for much more then sketching up ideas. This was my first time using the sheet metal environment which is is interesting to use.

Anyways, plan is to make a steel pan (i dont have an AC TIG ), 3/16 for the flange and 1/16 for the sump. Couple design changes have been made using inspiration from SR20 sumps. instead of welding a tube threw the pan, I'm putting 1/2 NPT inspection plugs on the bottom to access the 2 bolt holes blocked by the passenger side sump kick out. I probably will make them studs or allens to avoid dropping a bolt in the pan while installing. Next change will be to mount the baffles to the pan instead of the block, its just too cumbersum to have mounted to the block. One of the builds i do follow in their latest update Project Binky shows a nice way to do weld in baffles that are removable for cleaning. If you aren't familiar with Project Binky its a pair of British blokes that are stuffing a AWD Celica GT-Four drivetrain into a classic mini to be used as a rally car, and their nearly done.

This isn't a finallized version yet as i don't have the required measurements for the oil pan flange and bolts or the timing cover bump yet. Soon I'll try to email Moroso, Canton or Kmiata but I doubt they would just hand over the .IPT file for the flange. If one of you other guys doing a Kswap could get me measurements. I'd be glad to get the pieces for the pan to you, at cost of materials, for you to get welded up.

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Old 04-28-2019, 02:10 PM   #43
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Been going over my electrical schematics for making a new harness that goes threw the drivers side when I get back and I belive I figured out why I couldnt get VSS out and my FPCM to work. Going over the pinout in haltech all output are controled ground except for stepper outputs. Normal DPOs only switch between open and grounded. Stepper outputs can do, 12v to open, ground to open, or as they call half-bridge 12v to ground. For both these outputs I need the half-bridge config. Ive made notes of this and already swapped pins in haltechs config.

This Should work perfect for the FPCM but for the VSS out I may have to add a capacitor and resistor if it wants a signal that crosses zero. Yes I could spend 80$ on a Dakota digital but why do that when 0.35$ in electronics will give me a working speedo. Here's a link that explains it more. https://www.google.com/amp/s/ekwang....s13-speed/amp/

on side note. Being held up he in TPU is starting to get to me. I wish I could actully do something productive while I'm just waiting around. Dont even know how much longer it will be till I get flown to my ship, but when I do itll be a 24hrs notice. One good thing is I now have a pretty good idea of when I'll be back from deployment as I've been talking with othrt saliors destined for my ship. Still can't tell yall tho cause of OPSEC but, it's on the shorter side of my estimate.

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Old 05-04-2019, 05:40 PM   #44
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One the key things I can't stand about being in the military is the old phrase "hurry up and wait". I've been waiting in TPU for over a week now no clue of when I'll be joining my ship for the deployment. I've been told 2 things, I could leave any day and stay preprared to to leave with 24hrs notice or settle in your gonna wait here till the ship comes back... months.

After 5 days of waiting around I grew tried of waiting around on base doing nothing but playing smash and watching TV. I went out to my buddy's house and picked up my truck from storage. And loaded it up with tools and parts in preparation to work on the car for the weekend while its in storage at another friends house.

This morning I started off by swapping the Non-abs differential for a s14 VLSD diff. I don't want to run a VLSD but, this will work for now. After the deployment I have 2 paths i can follow ether swap the Cusco 2-way I picked up in Japan 2 years ago or finish my Z33 diff subframe but I have yet to find a decent ring and pinion instead of the R51 2.3 I currently have in the diff. The Z33 diff swap will probably have to wait till I step up to wide body tho cause the axles are very close to being to long for the stock track.



The drive shaft I ordered while in Florida fit like a charm. When ordering I had no clue how long the drive was but, I knew I had the K24 in about the same location as the KA24, just maybe 1/2" forward of stock. I choose to call it safe and get a ABS KA24 to CD009 driveshaft to use with a ABS diff, vs getting a NON-ABS driveshaft for an extra ~3/4". It worked out if I ordered the NON-ABS driveshaft it may have been a smidge to long. Most drive shaft manufacturers recommend ~1/2" of plunge left in the drive shaft yoke anyways even for IRS suspension.

Threw the catback on which hang a bit low for my taste but its as high as i can get it. I wonder how JZ guys keep their exhaust of the ground? Later I may have to use oval pipe for the down pipe for better clearance. Still doesn't go as low as to lowest section of the transmission tho.

Popped in the O2 sensor and started trying to get the K24 to idle on its own. I turned off all the flex fuel functions and it started to run smoothly but wouldn't idle. If it did, it would only idle at about 500 rpm. With a bit of poking around I found a setting under Idle Control called Max DBW position, which is a limiter for how much idle control can open up the throttle body and also acts as a scaler for idle duty %. The setting was at 0 maked idle control unable to open the throttle. After changing it to 20, it would idle on target rpm till it reached full temp and the idle started oscillating and surging. My MTX-l wideband wasn't giving good readings (may have to recal or get a new sensor) so right now I can only guess to why its acting up like this. So I called it a day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aC5...ature=youtu.be
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Old 05-07-2019, 10:09 AM   #45
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Broswing Ebay the other nite I found an open box haltech 2500 premium universal harness for 50% off MSRP. Then went ahead and ordered the missing turbo speed sensor connector and a few DT connectors. So a tucked harness coming through the firewall on he drivers side will be in works this weekend. After I verify I can get the VSS output working and FPCU.

Yesterday I got off work early and headed to picknpull. Droped the subframe, oil pan, and pump on a 03 accord to get messurements for the bolt pattern of the oil pan flange. After inputing dimensions into autocad the pattern looks a bit off. One day this week I will go back and pull the motor to measure out of the car. Wish I still had access to a garage as it would be nice to have a spare block for fabrication work. A tip for easily measuring flanges with threaded holes, use bolts with a shoulder to get a more accurate reading. I used valve cover bolts from a Nissan QR25 to make each hole a 8.9mm dowel.


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Old 05-11-2019, 08:43 AM   #46
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Worked on the car for a little bit yesterday. Played with the haltech some more and got it idling perfect. Started off with my wideband needing a recal, but apparently with my fuel pressure sensor was reading high it set the fuel pressure differential higher. So the ecu was running super lean (20s at idle) thinking its fuel pressure was high enough to make the ID1000s spray 1250cc, disabled that sensor for later calibration and locked the injector flow in at 1015cc and it was at stoich after 7% VE bump on the k20 base map. It now starts and idles almost perfect. Then I set the ECU in open loop idle and verified oil pressure sensor against my MTX oil pressure and temp gauge and its within 1-2 psi Error. I need to adjust the cold and/or post start values cause it idles a bit high after starting.

I then tried to drive it in the drive way with a still kinda spongy clutch. 2, 4, 6, and reverse went In fine but the GKTECH shifter couldn't reach 1, 3, or 5. They would start to engage but as soon as I let out the clutch it would grind. Loosed the top bolts and pulled the shifter assembly back and gained 3rd. So I went under and loosened the lower bolts to move the whole assembly back and now have all gears. Had a buddy helped me bleed the clutch and after adjusting the master everything with the transmission is done other the the the flywheel cover.

I also repined the outputs for the FPCM and VSS out from DPOs to STEPPERs, then set them to half-bridge. Thru testing I couldnt get the FPCM to react to anything, so I'll be ording an SSR tonight. Didnt bother testing the VSS out yet cause I know itll need a capacitor and resistor from my electronics box that's in storage.

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Old 05-13-2019, 09:56 PM   #47
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Love this build. subbing for updates
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:17 PM   #48
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Made a run to buddy's house last nite for tools. Grabbed a ton of tools to rewire the enigne with a haltech premium harness and to make a new oil pan. Got this free box from work no clue what went it in before but it fits all of my fabrication tools and straps down nice to to the flat bed. Deffinalty gona be my new tool box for fabrication on the go.

I havent given up on making a new oil pan from scratch but I ordered a new oil pan for 25$ and will messure it. I want a new pan but I also I want get this thing driving ASAP. I'm constantly torn between actully being to be part of this deployment and stayn home to finish the car. But it's not my choice if I leave or not and it's really starting to sound like I'll be waiting for my ship to come back while I do tasks far from my actual job in the navy.

While I was buddys house i also picked up the rest of the connectors (turbo speed and some Deutsch) i need to finish my harness along with left over loom and supply's from my KAT harness. And I measured the the thread pitch for the OEM S13 temp gauge so I can order an adapter to go where the Honda fan switch goes in the TSTAT housing.




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Last edited by foreverdeath; 05-14-2019 at 07:09 PM..
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:17 PM   #49
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Start making the new harness today. Thru out the week I've been going through the 2500 harness removing wires not used on my 1500 and sectioning wires off into branchs. Then laying the harness out the car so find out how much wire I had to play with. I drilled a 2inch hole just below the throttle pedal mount and passed it all through. The ecu and fuse box will mount where the glove box was. And eventually I'll clean up my custom body harness and mount my chassis fuse box there too and get back my glove box.

First branch I did was the fuel branch which only has the flex fuel sensor, fuel pressure sensor and throttle pedal sensor. Haltechs harness is well thought out giving plenty of extra signal ground wires, 5v ref, and 12V, with dedicated wires for coil power and injector power.

Next I started the valve cover branch which is the biggest one. Starting of with the 2 cam sensors and CLT behind the head all the way to EBC and turbo speed on the passenger shock tower. I only managed to get up to finishing the coil pack wiring done before it started to get dark. I did toss on some more sleeve to get me an idea of what I'll be finishing tomorrow though.

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Old 05-19-2019, 06:57 PM   #50
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Finished the new wiring harness today, which cleaned up the bay a lot. I've never tried to make a harness with sleeving before I've always just used tape. Which took a good bit more planning and time it make.



The harness comes threw just behind the throttle pedal. On the Chasssis side it connects via a 12pin DTM connector and all power is pinned into my chassis fuse box.



The ECU and Fuse box are not mounted yet. I've verifed everything still work that used to but, now the flex fuel sensor is working showing 93 pump gas at 8% Ethanol and 100F on a 85F day. Also checked on the newly connected Turbo speed senor now that I have the connector for it. After double checking pinout and haltech config im currently stumped. thinking it a a dead sensor as instead of a 5v DC pluse I get a 4.9v plugged in and 0.1v unplugged.

After some testing i have gotten the FCPM to partially respond to a duty signal 25% is slow as it goes and 50% is max. But it should shut off near 0% and over 75% and it just stays at limp duty output.

Also did some testing on the VSS output but no luck i managed to pick up a 25mV peak to peak waveform on a small oscilloscope but wasn't powerful enough to drive the speedo. I've given up and ordered a dakota digital for it, maybe I'll figure it out down the road but I'm tired of fighting it.


Next weekend will be a 4 day weekend for me. Plenty of time to install the dakota digital and make a new oil pan. Then start doing some street tuning.
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:55 PM   #51
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Been busy knocking out the new oil pan over the last 2 days. Started off by making a brace to keep the oil pan from warping this time. But, that's not where the leak was on the old pan was, turns out it was leaking from the top of the tube used to access one of the oil pan bolts on the short side of the pan. which would be impossible to fix with out cutting the pan up. Then remeasuring the oil pan flange bolt pattern for later use. I think one of the thing that was giving me trouble last time was I would accidentally bump the the zero button and throw of my measurements without me realizing it.



Next came removing the old oil pan to measure and make a altered copy. This engine support beam might be one of the best tools i keep (didn't get rid of anything actully) from my old career. Without this I would of have to pull the motor and tranns, not something im tring to do outside and with limited tools. Here you can see the modifications to the subframe for the swap. Changed the passenger side rack bracket to have a stud to gain all the clearance I could and removed the front lip on the front of the subframe, welding the seam back together.

Making the new pan I started with the easy section the rear shelf that is cut to clear the subframe and powersteering rack.

Then the tricky bit, which I forgot to take pictures of, the front and rear face to the sump extension. Which tacks a lot of PAD (Posterboard Aided Design) and an Angle finder. Of the changes I'm making I'm made the sump a ~1/4 deeper, lowering the top of the passenger side to give access to bolts, and elongating the front of the sump for my capacity. Even with shorting the passenger side a bit i should gain about ~3/4 of a quart of oil.

One thing I did before starting to attach the sump was weld in some strips for rigidity where I ground away the rolled edge on the pan. The edge had to be removed to make bolts accessable via a wrench in the tight space, and the strips are there to help seal the pan and not warp the shit out of it when if I ever have to remove it.

After 2 full days of work, I almost have a new pan. All thats left to do is to: weld any spots i missed, bungs, leak test, and redesign the baffles.

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Old 06-03-2019, 06:21 PM   #52
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havent posted here in minute but ive still been knocking stuff out.

Knocked out the baffles yesterday, after work. Started with the sides then, mocking up the braking baffle test fitting it with the oil pump off the motor.


New pan held 8Qts to the edge without the oil pump, which probably takes up a quart. on the engine it should be close to 6Qts not including the oil cooler.


With a coat paint the oil pan gets the seal of approval and is ready to install. I didn't have time to install the pan before the sun went down and rain was coming so I removed the engine support beam and let the tranny lean on the tunnel to hold the motor up for few days so the hood could be closed.



A few days later the oil pan went on, no visable leaks. Then set about some finishing touches. With the new pan I ditched the thru tube and left open room to get to 3 bolts above the kick out. Some thing I also moved was the turbo drain which is now part of the timing chain cover. I'm not sure about this spot as the whole drain tube is about 45 degree slope but on the other hand if it went on the pan it would have been even harder to put those bolts in and the drain would now be below the oil line.


Next I set about making the cold intake for the turbo. But i started of with a bit of a problem. the air filter i ordered in theory was gona fit the in the fender. But, for some reason 10" seems a lot bigger once its in your hand. It was about 2 inchs to tall to fit in the fender so on the powerstroke it went. and I swapped the truck filter on to the 240 which was tapered cone of the same diameter, inlet size (6") and 2" shorter. I couldn't start building the intake tho as I was missing a 3" coupler.

I made a heat shield for the passenger side motor mount along with installed the proper length bolt, they have been loose till now.

I then moved onto electronics. I played with the FPCM but it only responds to 75-225Hz. Also tried low drive and low/high drive both act the same. But high drive does nothing. There are a few versions of this controller I wonder if mine does have a shut of. I'm done messing with this it works for what i need it.

Also got the turbo speed sensor working. The first time I started the engine that day It was at high idle at around 2300rpm cause of a DBW fault. But once I remedied the fault by pushing the throttle plate by hand it idle normal and the signal was gone. I have to do this every now and then, sometimes it just sticks after sitting, but after that it's fine. This throttle body came of a Honda Pilot flood car which the motor was hydro locked. The last shop I worked for would do a lot of subletted insurance work, so I got to do a lot of motor swaps and big suspension jobs. I pulled the compressor housing to see the sensor was recessed about 1mm. I took a file and slowly worked down the matting surface till it was flush. Its was still gone at idle but at 1100rpm the turbo is spinning fast enough to read, which is good enough for me as predicted full spool for 10psi is 2500-3000rpm. I'm Curious to why Borg Warner didn't set it close enough to constantly read or if did they feared contact with the compressor.

Yesterday I started off knocking out the last of the under car work. Welded flange nuts to a pair of 3/4" x 1/8" x 2" flat bars then bent em into 90s. Tacked them onto the dump pipes on car with the Mig then pulled them off and swapped cables on my machine to TIG them.

With more flat stock I made a bracket to connect each to the block. The front was simple but the rear got tricky.


Next came the Dakota Digital. I Split the output to both the cluster and ECU. Test run on the default settings before calibrating, It was reading pretty high 30mph idling in 1st... but this was the perfect time to answer an old question of mine. What's the max speed the NX1600 cluster will display? Turns out the internal circuitry maxes out at 299 not matter KPH or MPH. This was on Jack stands 2800rpm in 6th pictured is actually ~60mph. I haven't entered the calibration factor yet but, I do know to set it to 1/6 as the abs tone ring is 24 tooth will the factory speed sensor is 4 tooth.


There is very little left to do on the car now. Thursday imma knock out some more stuff then clean up the inside before going on the first test drive.
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Old 06-03-2019, 06:42 PM   #53
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So goooooood. Love this especially since I come from the 8th Gen Civic Si world. That engine looks rad in that bay! Can't wait to hear the sooundddd. You're an honorary member of BoostedBoiz for this aha
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:20 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyedian View Post
So goooooood. Love this especially since I come from the 8th Gen Civic Si world. That engine looks rad in that bay! Can't wait to hear the sooundddd. You're an honorary member of BoostedBoiz for this aha
I dont think itll sound like a Honda between a 1a/r twin scroll and a pair of glass packs. It actully sounds pretty close to my old KA24DET but I havent heard it crack vtec yet.

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Old 06-03-2019, 08:08 PM   #55
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oh snap glass packs haha. I missed that part. Hmm I def wanna hear it doe. Cool build, mang
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Old 06-06-2019, 06:35 PM   #56
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Started today by calibrating the Dakota digital, adding short pulse width to the haltech (wired it's not enabled by default) and some test drives.

Still got some kinks to work out it start to break up around 5.5k so I'm not even hitting vtec yet but even with 30% throttle I hit 10psi around 3k rpm. My transmission has some issuses. 5th gear definitely grinds like I was told (free tranny) and ether I have a input bearing noise or maybe the tranny adapter isnt properly aligned.

With a turbo and a pair of glass packs this motor is very quite out of the car atleast for now on the low cam. Tomorrow I'll try putting spark plugs in it . Right now it has the old plugs that it came with havent even gapped them yet. But heres what it sounds like, I'm shifting as it starts to break up on about ¹/2 throttle.

https://youtu.be/Fzt6Dr_RatU


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Old 06-06-2019, 06:46 PM   #57
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Dang that is quiet! But sounds good and can hear all the snail sounds. My Civic Si grinded 5th gear as well before I sold it. Just had to go 4-6 for the last half a year.
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Old 07-20-2019, 01:22 PM   #58
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Got back from deployment the other day. Already got a small box of parts from summit waiting for me to finish a few things so i can get back to fixing the drive ablity issues. Got a few things to sort out before i can get back to working on it tho.
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Old 07-20-2019, 07:03 PM   #59
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honestly cant wait to hear this thing rip, best of luck to you!!
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Old 08-04-2019, 03:47 PM   #60
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Over the weekend I wrapped the turbo manifold to help with my heat issues melting parts. Ended up having to replace the turbo inlet coupler and a few lines.



While i had it torn down i also modified the water pump housing by cutting it down and tapping it, so i can run a -10 or 5/8 PVC hose later to catch can. before it was hitting the throttle body and limiting me to a -6. for now its just got a crusty 5/8 to 3/8NPT fitting that i probably pulled of an old KA long ago.


I've driven it a few times sense i got back but not very far. After refilling the cooling system and bleeding for hours i have an air bubble somewhere in the system and it wont run cool. been working a on a solution to get it on the road quickly but I'm also talking to Trac Tuff about a custom coolant swirl tank to make this easier down the road.
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